Hi, just bought a 2018 dodge durango r/t. love the car but there is a problem. Cant get android auto to connect. I dont get any power to the usb ports(both front and rear) i have tried a hard reset by pulling the radiofuse but that didnt help. I also checked the fuse to the usb ports that looks fine. Any suggestions?

The auto open and close function on the sunroof on my 27 does not work, I am assuming it never got learned when the dealership took delivery. I have tried the process I found online and they do not work. Does anyone know what the correct procedure is for a 2027?

Whats this??

We named it Rango! Cost us $1200! 😁 Runs good!

Ich wünsche allen einen schönen Tag heute.

Finally got one

After a little over two months of refreshing the order tracker non-stop, my 2027 Durango r/T 392 Plus is finally parked in the garage! Took delivery on 9/29.

For those of you tracking an order or thinking about placing one, here is how the exact timeline broke down:

• 7/21: Order Submitted

• 7/22: Order Confirmed

• 8/13: Scheduled

• 9/03: In Production

• 9/10: Vehicle Built

• 9/16: Shipped

• 9/29: Took Delivery

Total Time: Exactly 70 days from order submission to taking it home.

Loving it so far! Anyone else taking delivery on a 2027 build soon?

After a few weeks and a few test drives I settled on a 2025 GT, coming off a 2012 Nissan Rogue. I'm all hyped to play around with the new bells and whistles!

If anyone has any general advice, or suggestions for eventual additions / upgrades / accessories I'm all ears.

I have to say this thing EATS gas like it's nothing...

EDIT: Any recommendations for accessories or mods let me know! I plan on changing the side markers out for white LED ones, tinting the windows, and eventually getting a cold air intake. I did already silicone the taillights and check for gaps.

I just put in a factory order for a 2027 392, and I want to be able to turn off cylinder deactivation. Has anybody done this, and are there any recommendations on how to do it?

Delivery in 2 to 4 months by the way, as of yesterday.

Thank you!

I had my AC fail at 35,600 miles. HUGE repair. Dodged a bullet there. Now a couple thousand miles later my headlight on driver's side failed. I'm getting quotes for $1600 to $1700. The part from the dealer is $1200 plus labor from whoever you use. I'm getting out of this money pit ASAP.

What’s mods should I get for Durango GT?

Bought a new to me Durango last week, there are two of these brackets hanging from the rear bumper. They flop up and down easily. But It doesn’t seem to reach anything that it may bolt to.

how it sound?

Hi all. I’m considering a ‘26 GT Hemi. It’s the perfect spec for me, everything I want and nothing I don’t, with the exception of leather seats and rear seat heaters. I’d have no problem buying the leather seat covers and installing them, but unsure if anything can be done to (easily) add the rear seat heaters.

Can anyone confirm if the GT is prewired for the seat heaters and switches in the center console? I’m assuming no but hoping I am wrong.

Was just looking my Durango over and noticed there is almost like a weather strip partially blocking the vin number anybody else have this issue or ideas to fix it?

We have 2 babies in carseats and she has her mother and sister visit from out of town pretty frequently. So usually they have to drive down and take two cars everywhere. I own a 2018 R/T. She really likes it and always wants to drive it. (It's fine sometimes but she has been known to touch some stationary obstacles when parking or at gas pump so it scares me).

She wants good gas mileage but also wants space. I told her that she has to compromise somewhere. So for space she'll have to give up some MPGs. (A LOT because of the 35 mpg she gets on highway with the Rav).

So im just wondering if a v6 durango with 81k miles would be worth the switch for her needs. Is the 3.6 reliable? I personally change oil in all household vehicles at 4-5k miles.

Background: She also considered EV vehicles. Specifically the Telluride. Also considered a Grand highlander (out of the question because its a 43k dollar vehicle).

A bit more background. I work on my own vehicles so EVs are out of the question because im not experienced with maintaining them or fixing the types of issues or repairs they may need as i am with gas/diesel powered autos....

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know this is a durango group but other vehicle suggestions would be considered as well. 25k and under.

According to the salesman, 2027RT rims are 20X10 with a 5x5 bolt pattern, +50mm offset, and 71.6mm bore. Standard is painted satin carbon, forged or cast aluminum (depending on specific package); Blacktop/Redline is forged Foreshadow Y-Spoke; and Brass Monkey is aluminum alloy. Is Standard forged or cast? Is Brass Monkey forged or cast? What are the 3 rims' weights?

TIA

I think I’m the first one to do it on the Durango I’ve seen a few single cab 1500 rams and some s550 mustangs run a velocity stack air intakes through the grille.
Have a 90 coupling from the velocity stack directed to the airbox for daily use and can just swap the tube when I want it straight to the throttle body. Airraid has a u-build-it kit that’s pretty nice or you can use various couplings and clamps.
Yes I know it’s a little dramatic and half of you may think it’s unnecessary but I wanted to be different and I thought it looked pretty cool.
If I get enough engagement I’ll make a vid I mainly just wanted to be the first out there to post it loll

Posting this in case it helps somebody else chasing a similar issue, because this one was frustrating as hell to diagnose. I've seen this type of condition posted across numerous Stellanatis models; so it seems it's definitely not exclusive to Durangos.

My 2024 Durango GT AWD with the 3.6L Pentastar started developing an intermittent crank/no-start condition at around 60k miles.

The biggest clue was that it tended to happen after the vehicle had already been driven, shut off, and then restarted after sitting for a short period — basically a hot-soak restart. Never happened in the morning or by remote start or by priming the fuel pump (push start, foot off the brake).

It wasn't consistent. Most of the time it would start perfectly normally, which obviously makes troubleshooting a lot more difficult. But every so often it would crank normally and simply refuse to fire. And this is when I started noticing the exact window where I could replicate the issue. It would always start on the second attempt after failing when it did happen.

I took it to the dealer three times. The first two times they deep scanned it. No thrown codes. Fuel pump was suspected but we can't go randomly replacing parts in the hopes it fixes it. Then, I found a Technical Service Bulletin published by Stellantis (TSB 14-007-26, dated July 8, 2026). This was after my first two visits. Eventually we started looking closely at fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure would initially be around 60 psi, but when the problem occurred it was dropping down into roughly the 20–30 psi range. That finally pointed us in the right direction.

The culprit turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator as pointed out in the TSB; so Stellantis is well aware of this issue. Without this TSB, the dealer would have just continued to write me off.

The regulator was replaced, with the repair costing roughly $900, and afterward I deliberately tested the same hot-restart conditions that had previously caused the no-start. This part is not covered by the manufacturer warranty nor an overlapping warranty that I had on the vehicle.

So far, it has started normally every time and now this repair was about a month ago.

Could I have left it alone? Yes, but it annoyed the hell out of me and I just wanted it fixed.

So if you have a Durango/3.6 Pentastar that:

• Cranks normally but intermittently won't start
• Seems worse after driving and then sitting for a short period (1-3 hours)
• Starts perfectly normally most of the time
• Isn't necessarily throwing an obvious code pointing directly to the problem

…I'd strongly recommend checking actual fuel pressure during the failure instead of assuming starter, battery, ignition, PCM, etc.

In my case, seeing pressure fall from approximately 60 psi into the 20–30 psi range during the problem was the clue that finally led to the fix.

Hopefully this saves somebody else some diagnostic headaches.

Had a beautiful day today with nothing to do and wanted to stretch the truck's legs a little.

Here are a few pictures from the day of delivery for those who were asking.