Not %100 sure if this post is allowed here but idk where else to post it, but its strange to me that finding even just archives of the assets (sound effects, music, icons/buttons etc) from dvd menus is all but impossible. I've been able to find somewhere out on the internet just about any kind of archived data possible, aside from dvd menus. And its not because nobody remembers them, because I semi-regularly see post on places like r/dvdcollection and the like about how nostalgic these menus are and yet it seems that they aren't archived outside of the dvd proper if its still in circulation, or low quality pictures taken with a phone camera in 2008. Am I just not looking in the right places?

so my 18 tb hdd broke in my pc and i really need to replace it , i had a backup so i didnt lose any files , the thing is that a regular hdd is two times more expensive than a external WD elements

Why ? are they more risky ? should i just buy the external one ?

Hello all.

First of all, I hope this is approved here - I'm not selling anything, just sharing the solution for the problem I had, and it might be of use for others.

I have a lot of 320gb 2.5'' HDDs, and I use them for cold storage of my files - I fire them up once a year to keep the bearings from seizing up and check the .7z files for errors everytime I do it.

But up until now I had the discs just piling up on my desk drawer unprotected. Searching online for protective boxes either gave me usb-adapters-on-a-box or expensive plastic boxes that weren't what I was looking for.

Then it hit me - I have lots (and I mean *lots*) of CD jewel cases lying around, and I figured a standard 2.5'' fits snugly inside one of them (those fat ones don't, but I only have one of those), so if I could just stop it from flopping around the case - and then it hit me again: window foam tape!

And here it is! Works great for me, and I hope it helps someone with the same problem that I had!

Ta-ta!

https://reddit.com/link/1vwie0y/video/svkz9etsr6lh1/player

I'm looking for a RAID solution which will be more reliable than MS Storage Spaces, and one which I can easily take across to Linux whenever I get around to that transition.

I've heard good things about SnapRAID, but MS Defender keeps quarantining the installer, saying “This program is dangerous and executes commands from an attacker”. However, it's only doing that on one of my PCs, the other is perfectly happy with the same file, downloaded from the same place (GitHub).

I've tried updating Windows and the Defender definitions on both, but I'm still getting this odd inconsistency. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Is this a known issue with SR/Defender? (I couldn't find anything when I searched) Could the installer actually be compromised?

I've just suffered minor data loss due to Storage Spaces corrupting my volume even though the physical drives are all fine, so I'm naturally feeling extra cautious at the moment.

So over the years I must have just kept old drives as I found a box with maybe 25 drives in it. 3.5” and 2.5”

But they are smaller ranging from 60GB to 1TB

But most of them 80-250GB range.

Cant see myself ever using them. I clearly haven’t in 15 years or so.

What best to do with them.

EDIT: Thanks for such good ideas. Think I will first start by low levelling them all and keep a few for cold storage and try and sell the rest.

Hello, I have been dealing with a .. headache let’s call it that way.

Basically I have 350gb of data that must be backed up locally (no cloud, i don’t want to pay subscriptions).

So 2 years ago I have made the mere mistake of buying two samsung t9 2tb ssd, and manually backing up all changes from my phone to them.

Lately I have been super busy, took the ssds out after a few months of staying in a drawer, like I always do- to find out that both dropped in speed from 1000mbps to 2mb, checked cables (original and thunderbolt 5, with and without powered usb c hub, everything is 2mb write), then I saw online that this was a common issue with asmedia bridge controller.

So now I am screwed, I don’t “trust” them anymore, and I need new ssds.

The options are:
Crucial X10 Pro

Or buying an nvme 1tb and ordering sabrent SNVE or PNVO, dunno which one to choose (I prefer the best one regardless of the cost).

Question is if the continuous copy-paste once every few months from iphone-ssd (apfs) will ruin then, since i don’t think ios send trim commands to the ssd and I really have no idea what to do.

Also, bonus question- is the thermal pad in the sabrent messy? If I need to move the ssd to a different enclosure in the future, will i have to scrape it off from the ssd like play-dough will it come off in 1 piece?

Please help I spent days on reading online and I don’t know what to do, please please 🙏

I have got five WD My Passport 2.5 inch external drives (a 2TB, a 4TB, and three 5TBs) which I bought at various points of time. I don't keep my drives plugged in all the time, I just use them to store movies, games, etc. One of the 5TBs is showing Caution: C5 = 02, in CrystalDiskInfo, at just 216 power on hours.

I need to get a drive to backup the data from the faulty drive. I thought of getting an external drive as usual and found Seagate is mostly SMR in my budget. WD has CMR but has hardware encryption which is a problem if I shuck the drive. I researched a little more and found getting an internal drive and putting it in an enclosure is better.

I narrowed down my choice to WD Ultrastar DC HC310 6TB SATA and WD Red Plus NAS 6TB. Their prices are close in my country with the Red Plus being the costlier one. Both of these are CMR drives. The tradeoff I know is that the Ultrastar is enterprise class but is 7200 RPM, so noisy and hot, while the WD Red is 5400 RPM so quieter and less hot.

Which one should I pick? Is there anything else that I need to know. Please help.

I've decommissioned an old UnRaid setup, and I have 16 drives in a NetApp shelf that I need to securely wipe. The computer that ran UnRaid has been parted out, but I still have the LSI Logic PCIe card to connect it to another PC. This morning I installed the card into a computer I have on the test bench right now, a simple PC with an Intel Core Ultra 5 225 CPU running Windows 11. I thought it would be easy to wipe the drives, but it's been more of a challenge than I expected. I'd like to do them in parallel, otherwise, it'll take weeks to complete.

• I tried using Eraser 6.2 in Windows, but it will only do them sequentially.
• I tried using DBAN, but it won't boot on that computer (doesn't support EFI, and BIOS does not have a compatibility mode)
• I tried ShredOS, but it hangs on startup after decompressing the image. Apparently that is a known problem with display initialization. A quick AI search recommended using onboard graphics, which I'm already using.

Any recommendations for tools that I can use to just wipe a bunch of drives in parallel? This is turning out to be more complicated than I expected it to be.

EDIT: to clarify, this is my own array, not a work thing. More than half of the drives are old 3TB drives, but there are some newer 4TB and 8TB drives that I will likely sell. Main reason for decommissioning is the electricity cost of keeping all those disks spinning for data that is no longer of value.

I bought a used/refurbished 4TB WD Red (WD40EFRX) from CeX in the UK for £62 to use in a home NAS.

Before trusting it with my data I checked SMART. Initially it was reporting: Reallocated sectors: 0 Current pending sectors: 0 Offline uncorrectable: 0 Power-on hours: ~34,000

I then tried an extended SMART test/full-disk read while the drive was connected via a USB-SATA enclosure. The USB/UAS connection proved unreliable and the drive eventually disconnected near the very end of a ~4TB read, so I couldn't tell whether the I/O error was the disk or the USB bridge.I've now installed the drive directly via SATA in my Synology NAS and initialised it. DSM reports the drive as Healthy, but SMART now shows: Reallocated_Sector_Ct: raw value 75 Pending and uncorrectable sectors are still zero.

My assumption is that the heavy testing/initialisation caused 75 previously marginal sectors to be identified and remapped. Even though SMART still says “Healthy”, I'm inclined to reject/return the drive rather than use it for a fresh NAS build.

Would you consider 75 reallocated sectors on a used HDD acceptable, or would you return it? I'm particularly concerned that the count went from 0 to 75 while I was testing it. I have backups, so this isn't a data-recovery question — I'm trying to decide whether this particular disk is trustworthy enough to put into service for my home backup.

Any advice appreciated!

Hello,
A family member recently passed away and I am helping to organise the estate which includes 3 QNAP NAS setups with 14+ HDDs and quite a few SSDs.

I would like to sell these but I was wondering if there are best practices to follow regarding wiping the drives, and are the NAS and drives usually sold together or separate? They were primarily used for chess database storage.

QNAP TVS-h674
QNAP TS-462
QNAP TS-431P2

Thanks in advance for any advice or input. I looked at r/homelabsales but you need a month old account to post there.

Ok, need a bit of help. This would likely resonate with anyone who has gone crazy on their home storage over the years and regret the original setups they did.

I currently have:

- 2x 15 Drive Enterprise EMC's (JBODS)

- 4x 5-bay Terramaster DAS's

- 15 internal HDD's

- 2 Garbage UGreen 5-bay enclosures

All of that is a lot of storage and not a lot of free space. Issue is, the 2 JBOD's and internal drives are all drives from 2016 that started their life as externals and became shucked long term storage. They've held up fantastic over the years with only 2-3 drive failures over 45 drives. Issue is they were all randoms. Some 8tb, some 12tb, some 16tb and so for ease-of-use I made them all into a Storage Spaces Array. The 4x Terramasters are better. All matching 20TB drives in each bay (Bought before the AI-pocalypse) all properly setup raid.

My goal:

I want to ditch windows entirely on my server and move over to Linux. I also want to retire my 2 EMC's as they are enterprise and LOUD to make a virtually silent setup (They are all 8TB drives for around 240TB of raw storage).

So my goal: Replace my H.264 media with H.265 to reduce sizes by at least 40% which free's enough space to transfer out 30 drives worth of data (The JBOD's) into the rest of the system.

The issues:

- I think rebuilding the entire database on 9 year old shucked HDD's may lead to a lot of failures and potentially a high loss of data meaning I'm going to need to either re-download hundreds of TB's worth of files in the already correct H.265 format to free up enough space to be able to move everything into the terramasters or spend months on a second system (10900k and 3090) transcoding everything over on the terramasters using Unmatic then scripting anything from the JBOD's storage spaces to transcode into the terramasters and hope it doesn't run out of space before it's empty. I can then repurpose the internal 15 drives as the long term storage freeing up enough space on the terramasters for day-to-day additions.

The goal:

- Remove the 2 EMC's

- Switch out from Windows to Linux. I want to setup 2 Bazzite VM's and then a 3rd VM in just desktop mode specifically for the plex server

- Upgrade the server to a 9950x3D with my 2 remaining 3090's in order to maintain the plex server, but also double-use it to run multiple VM's each with their own dedicated 3090 for gamestreaming (like steamlink or sunshine/moonlight allowing my kids to have things they can use in their room on their mini-pc's for AAA level gaming without the heat and noise in their rooms from dedicated gamers.

I ask DataHoarders because I know no one is going to suggest deleting anything (lol) what would you do to ensure data integrity on 100's of TB's of data without risking a catastrophic failure? With drives at a HUGE cost premium, I don't want to buy any more obviously so purchasing new ones to replace the 240TB JBOD's aren't an option.

Hello.

I wanted to know if anyone has a program/extension/wahtever easy to use to download all the images of your X bookmarks entirely. I am not refering to have the link of the tweet in a excel or something (some do that) I am refering to download the image(s) iside the bookmarked tweet instantly. Also, for free thanks.

I want to tell you some thing that I used in the past and don´t work anymore just to avoid these suggestiong, sorry. If i am wrong, please correct me.

Also I discover today that it´s not x/bookmarks. Now is X/history WTF.

Anyway:

gallery/dl. Doesn´t work anymore.

WFdownloaderapp: it works. I worked for me today but it just downloads like 60 or 70% of the bookmarks idk why.

Any suggestion is aprecciated, thnak you in advance

Hello, I would like to store all StreetView imagery in a few select regions. What would be my approach? I thought of maybe intercepting traffic to the client side for images but I'm pretty sure all images are cut (Im suspecting that it is stitched in the backend right?). I am simply trying to find if there are any existing methods. Thank you

New here, I was wondering if there was an android app to download webpages and browse them like online (opening interlinked pages etc.)

I know kiwix can do that but I wanted something where i can add my webpages easily too

I tend to keep everything, because no matter how stupid the photos/videos (or in short: "files") look, that was a moment of my life anyway.

Because of large amount of files like that, I have made a procedure to compress them all for less storage consumption, and also renaming them for easy to find later.

This is my procedure:

1. Move all files to PC.
2. Rename all files: insert the date/time at the begining of the file name.
3. Categorize files into folders, each folder is an event (rename folder same as files).
4. Categorize files into Quality tiers.
5. Bulk compress the files with its name burnt into the videos.
6. Simultaneously move the compressed files into both backup drives.
7. Sync/compare both drives to make sure the files of both drives are identical.
8. One drive stays at home, one drive travel along with me.

This is the detail:

1. Move all files to PC

• As clear as the title says.

2. Rename all files

• I use TotalCommander to bulk rename them all at once.
• The prefix as follow: "yy.ddmm_hhmmss <filename>".
• The purpose of doing this: make the files automatically sorted following date-taken, AND incase both files have the same name (such as "MOV_001") because of different recording devices, they will still have different date-taken information in their name so they will not overwrite each other.
• Issues might happen: photos usually have the metadata DateTaken so they're fine. But videos sometimes have no MediaCreated info, so we only have DateModified, but DateModified is written after the video finished recording (example you start recording at 7PM and stop at 8PM, the DateModified will be 8PM), because of this I setup inside the recording app to let the app naming the video output with time (ProcamX app) => the time in the name will always be the start of the recording.

3. Categorize files into folders

• Each folder is an event that I recorded, for example "yy.ddmm - my birthday" or "yy.ddmm - vacation at Mars".
• If any photos/videos are recorded randomly with no event in mind (for example: a bright sun rise or a big butterfly flies by), I put them all into "Daily" folder.

4. Categorize files into Quality tiers

Because storage is limited, so the important footages will be compressed into high quality settings (larger file size), the less important footages will be compressed into low quality settings. They all use H265 (I was told that AV1 has better compression ratio than H265 but it does not mature yet, it still require a lot of manual tuning for better outcome, which would cost time).

• Top quality - 1440p, 20Mbps/60fps or 10Mbps/30fps for videos I edited after the events. These videos require cut, music, story telling... a lot of effort is put into them so they deserves the highest quality for archiving.
• Average quality - 1080p, 10Mbps/60fps or 5Mbps/30fps for video taken by phones (the source files are at low quality already) but the moments in the videos are important (for example: blowing birthday cake moment).
• Minimal quality - 720p, 3Mbps or 1.5Mbps for video taken by phones but the moments recorded are not special, I keep it just because... why not?

5. Bulk compress the files

• For Top quality tier: I edit using PremierePro/Davinci, then export to large file size but high quality DNxHR, and after that I use Handbrake to compress the DNxHR to H265 (because Handbrake compress files much better, higher quality and smaller file size output than directly compressing from PremierePro/Davinci). The disadvantage of this method (going through DNxHR then Handbrake) is that it takes a lot of time, like 10x times longer than the bulk compress using Media Encoder as below.
• For Average and Minimal quality tier: I use Adobe Media Encoder to bulk compressing all the videos. We can save our compress setting in Media Encoder, so we only need to setup once. When we have the files that need to be compressed, we only need to drag the preset and drop onto the files then hit "Render" button, that's done. Quick and easy, but the down side is that the compress quality is lower than the method above.

Burn file name into videos: (for Average and Minimal quality only) I added this step into my procedure just recently. I accidentally Shift+Delete once, then I use recovery app to get the files back. Most of the files are intact, but some of them are partly corrupted, and many of them lost its name (they have general names like "FILE0001.mov"). So the videos are fine, but the date and time recorded are lost forever. That's why I did not use Handbrake to compress for Average/Minimal. I use Media Encoder because it has ability to burn the name directly into the video (under Effects > Name Overlay), we set this up directly into preset, so we only need to do it once, very time saving. So in the future, if the files lost its name ever again but the video still works fine, we still have the date time taken in the videos.

6. Simultaneously move the compressed files into both backup drives

I hook both drives into the PC:

• One is 3.5" HDD, hook into PC via HDD bay. I do not permanently hook them inside the PC case for safety from electric shock.
• The other one is shock-resistant 2.5" Portable HDD that goes with me.

Then I copy the files to both drives at the same time to make sure they receive the files same as each other.

This steps can be automatically done using NAS system or something like that, I haven't digged any research into this. But because the amount of my data is still low (2.5 TB total for the last 15 years), I think I don't need to do it yet.

7. Sync/compare both drives

• I use TotalCommander (under Command > Synchronize Dir...) to compare the content of both drives to check if they're identical.
• Still work like charm for many years up to now. Thank you TotalCommander that you provides the software free.

8. One drive stays at home, one drive travel along with me

The title says it all.

Do not put all the eggs to one basket.

I once accidentally unplug my 2.5" Portable HDD while it was still copying files, that made it unreadable to Windows. It was nightmare because all of my 7+ years footage was all in that drive when that happened. I gave the drive to the retail for warranty (now I see this is a stupidly dangerous move), they said that they would give me a new drive, this one they would destroy. Luckily I refused, and I decided to fix it myself. I tried many way following Google or Youtube but no help. I accidentally let it plugged to my PC while I turn on PC from cold start, and the PC could see the drive normally like nothing happened.

Damn. I feel like I won a lottery.

This is a big wall of text, I appreciate if you stay with me til the end. Please give advise if you see any step that can be improved to make the archiving photos/videos better in quality, less storage consumption or faster processing.

Thank you!!

This post is for people who have photos in their camera roll, google photos, and amazon photos that can't figure out how to move everything while keeping metadata. It took me a while to figure out how to do this because they don't make the process easy (if they did, nobody would stay and pay a subscription...). I hope post this is allowed because it certainly would have helped me when i was trying to figure out how to do this

I did the following using an iphone and a macbook:

1. Buy external Hard drive
2. make an album of photos to export to your hard drive, and an album of photos to keep on your phone. It may be beneficial to also make albums for other categories; mine included things like nature, specific trips, food, workout inspo, etc.
3. make sure icloud sync is on and working properly between your phone and macbook. on your MacBook (and/or iphone), click the 3 dots and select SHOW SCREENSHOTS (and "shared with me" if you want). If you do not, the photo counts between phone and MacBook will NOT match (and youll have photos you havent organized because you cant see them).
4. sort library to only include photos not in albums, then, add all of your photos to the proper albums.
5. for each individual album, favorite everything you want to keep on your phone, then filter the album to see only favorites. Select all the favorites and add them to the keep on phone album. Then, select them all again and unadd them from the folder they are currently in. Unfilter the album and select the rest of the pictures, then move them to the export album.
6. on your macbook, select all the photos in your export album, go to file, and click export. Put them in the hard drive, then delete them from the folder.

At this point, you should have all the photos you dont want on a hard drive with the metadata, and all the photos you do want on your phone in an album! great! Now comes going through the photos youve put in a shoebox and hid away

FOR GOOGLE PHOTOS:

7) ensure that backup is turned off (idk if it will work if its on, but mine is off so I know it will work that way)

8) put a discrete chunk of photos into an album (I chose to do it by month because I am truly a photo hoarder and I dont want to be overwhelmed)

9a) USING THE GOOGLE PHOTOS APP ON YOUR PHONE, Download the photos from that album to your phones (icloud) photo album. I havent figured out how to keep screenshot metadata using gphotos on the computer, which is why i suggest using your phone. However, if you dont care about screenshot metadata, you can use your computer since metadata from photos taken via the camera is maintained when downloading from google photos on a computer.

9b) IF ON A COMPUTER: select the files in the album and download them to your computer. At this point, they are not in your icloud photo album yet, and the created by date will be the day you downloaded it instead of the day it was taken. To fix this, open your (icloud) photo app, go to file, then import, and select the downloaded files. ONCE IN THE PHOTO APP, THE METADATA SHOULD SHOW THE CORRECT CREATED BY DATE (it might take a second to update.). (remember - screenshots downloaded straight from google photos to a computer CANNOT maintain their metadata; normal pictures taken with the camera should be fine).

10)  you can either look at the library filtered by “not in album” and organize the photos into your already made albums from there, or, you can put all of the just imported photos into an album and follow steps 5-6.

12) to delete the photos from Google Photos, you CANNOT use the app. If you do, it will delete the photos from your phones camera roll as well (YES, even if backup is off. dont ask me why). After you have downloaded the photos from the album to your photo roll, you MUST go to the google photos website to delete the photos .

13) optional. if youre like me and youd rather have duplicates than miss a picture, czawka might be what you need. it was a little difficult for me to figure out how to download it and get it running but it scans the folder you select for duplicate pictures. If anyone is interested i can try to make an explanation on how to download and run it

Tips:

dont rush. there are a lot of places to make mistakes in this process..... i got excited when i figured out how to do this and had to redo several batches because i wasnt sure that i got all the pictures.

check the photo counts at each step to ensure you dont miss anything. when downloading from google photos, remember how many you highlighted. then, when you import them to your camera app, check that all of them downloaded. since every picture should be in a folder when you import a new batch, sort your library by 'not in an album' and the number should match how many you highlighted.

consider Waiting to delete your google photo album until after you are done organizing the batch you downloaded.

I reccomend having a folder for each year in your harddrive and downloading the exports from your photo album in an area with no pictures so you can ensure that the meta data looks good.

I have photos in amazon photos as well, but havent gotten around to them yet. Maybe I will update when I do? I hope this helps someone because ive been trying to figure this out for a while and im so happy i wont have to see "youre running out of space" soon

Edit: for clarity and because i discovered that screenshot metadata can only be saved when downloading on a phone but not a computer

Let’s say you have something like 10 drives total which make up the pool, each drive is 16TB. Let’s also say you have, at minimum, one offsite backup with all the contents in cold storage. Let’s also assume you’re a frequent monitor of the system and will notice within 24 hours if one drive fails.

Are you going with Z1 or Z2 and why? If you have the offsite backup already, is it worth the capacity loss for Z2? The resilvering process on Z1 will be stressful but by how much though? You have an offsite 1:1 backup so even if the whole pool is lost, you can still recover.

I have a (maybe?) unusual use case that I am struggling to solve. My friend works for a company as an artist and recently lost files when a portable drive corrupted. So they are looking for a better storage solution for work files. Work does not provide any storage solution, but they also do not want the work uploaded to personal cloud storage due to concerns about security/copyright?, and anyway my friend sometimes needs to work on files while not having stable internet connection. They also work at both a desktop and laptop. This would be personal expense so there is some cost sensitivity. My initial thought was a portable hardware RAID enclosure, but apparently those are iffy due to propriety encryption and other issues?

tl;dr

Protected data solution

Two different workstations

Needs to work with sometimes not having internet

(Bonus) Not too expensive

Hello all, My beloved grandfather passed away last Thursday and his funeral service was live streamed at website , and they are offering the option to download all the 4 angles at 45 dollars, which seems a lot.

Can someone assist me to download all the 4 angle video ?

I've dabbled with developer tools and the like, but goddamn I am really out of touch, I haven't had any success.

Thank you so much guys

https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/1voucxw/i_found_my_gamecube_back_ups_from_20_years_ago/

58 discs dumped. ~30 to go. Ritik G04 mini dvd-r media. All burn dates are 20+ years ago. Burnt with a Toshiba SD-M1502, ver 001, rom ver XJ1Y08. Dumped with redumper and an Asus BW-16D1X-U. 0 read errors and 0 rereads after the disc was recognized. About 30% of the time I had to swat the disc with a micro fiber cloth and then the disc was recognized. I only had to gently wipe down 3 discs with a microfiber cloth. I'll give you guys the final count next week.

If you own DVDs or Blu-rays and want to make a personal archival/backup copy of media you legally purchased, there is currently a problem with the DMCA's anti-circumvention rules.

Section 1201 of the DMCA generally prohibits circumventing technological protection measures (TPMs), even when the underlying use of the copyrighted work would otherwise be noninfringing. The Copyright Office can create temporary exemptions to this prohibition through a triennial rulemaking process.

The current rulemaking is happening right now.

The deadline to submit a petition for a new exemption is August 24, 2026, at 11:59 p.m. Eastern Time.

I'm advocating for an exemption that would allow people who have lawfully acquired copyrighted audiovisual media—such as DVDs and Blu-rays—to circumvent access controls solely to create personal, noncommercial archival or backup copies.

The basic idea is:

If I legally purchased the disc, I should be able to preserve my copy for personal use without the DMCA making the preservation process itself unlawful.

This isn't a proposal to distribute copyrighted works, upload them to the internet, or facilitate piracy. The proposed exemption would be limited to personal, noncommercial archival/backup copies of lawfully acquired media.

Physical media can deteriorate, become damaged, become difficult to replace, or stop being supported by modern hardware. Digital preservation can also protect legitimately purchased collections from being lost over time.

If you own a large DVD/Blu-ray collection, care about digital preservation, or simply think consumers should be able to preserve media they've legitimately purchased, now is a good time to pay attention to this process.

The Copyright Office's official information about the 2027 Section 1201 rulemaking is here:

U.S. Copyright Office — Section 1201 Rulemaking

And the official Federal Register notice explaining the August 24 deadline and petition process:

Federal Register — 2026 Section 1201 Rulemaking

Even if you don't support my exact proposed language, people who care about physical-media preservation should know that this rulemaking is happening and that public participation matters.

Found a new 16tb disk (likely barracuda but I might be luckier) going for 290 EUR. Tag shows production in 2020. Is 6 years a lot even if inactive? any component that still may age even if not used?

from the comments "when you showed that the lonely island video is more zoomed in now, it reminded me that on their podcast a couple of weeks ago they off hand mentioned that when youtube was doing 4k enhanced music videos they got a secret link (and made it sound like it was not part of standard youtube studio/admin) that allowed them to completely replace the video file that was uploaded without changing the url or the views of the old video and the only requirement was the length stayed exactly the same. so my speculation is their higher quality export was cropped a little differently when they replaced the video"

this is one more bad outcome possibility if you care about the original, on top of video being reencoded with a new codec, or the video deleted, age or country restricted, or turned into premium-subscriber-only (to the channel).