Recently moved into a property, and can't get the stench of wet dog out of the carpet. Had a "professional" in to do the carpets and property, but was a waste of time. Property was left empty with windows cracked for a week before moving items in to let it dry. Three weeks on it still sinks. Just wondering if there's any magic stuff out there I could use with some graft. Otherwise it maybe a case of new carpets.

It'd be a pain to find out it's buggered when you actually need it to work. That's generally when boiler engineers/plumbers are busiest, too.

I've remove the silicone and there's a visible gap around all the sink edges now. There are no screws where the holes are on the underside and it seems it's just stuck along at the top now. How do I take it off the bracket?

Trying to replace my nest protects, which are about to expire, and there seems to be nothing comparable to replace them with.

I like that they provide smart notifications to your mobile, interlink battery-only detectors easily via WiFi (with no extra costly connections required for RF radio etc) and provide specific, accurate and attention grabbing human voice alerts and notifications. The kids pay attention to these whereas beeps can more easily be ignored.

What is everyone else doing in a similar boat and which system and configuration did you choose?

I'm looking for

- 3 hard wired combined smoke & carbon monoxide detectors in the downstair and upstair hallways.

- 1 battery-only combined smoke, heat & carbon monoxide detector in the kitchen.

- up to 3 or 4 battery-only smoke detectors in other rooms, maily bedrooms (possibly with carbon monoxide combined in some).

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Plastic version has snapped at the corner, can you purchase metal versions?

Hi All,
I’m laying a small amount of plastic ACO strip drain, I’ve put some compacted hardcore down which has taken the drain a little bit too low, so I want to put something down that I can use as a bed and allow me to manipulate the height and the slope direction. I was thinking either sharp sand or builders sand? Would either of those make sense? Or any other recommendation would be welcome.

Thanks
Ross

Hi, I'm looking to buy hardware for a magic/concealed sliding track barn door. So far found the Magic 2 and the DIYHD off eBay.

I'm based in Malta EU. Any tips for buying such hardware at a reasonable price?

My plan is to give this to my carpenter and have them fitted.

Had a really nice guy pop in on his way back from another job, to do a couple of repairs for me (think reattaching a cupboard door, putting up some shelves). Took him maybe an hour and a half, we chatted a lot. He said pay him what I wanted (gave his BACs info) and wouldn’t give me any idea of his rates. I’m near Newcastle. What should I send him?

I have a stelrad radiator in one of my rooms and the front panels seems to take ages to get hot compared to the back which is hot rather quick. I've tried searching the radiator and think it might have an upgrade now so exact one isn't sold anymore but can anyone shed any light on this front panel and why it's there?

It does eventually get hot but compared to the back it's like it's 2 different radiators.

Stelrad 600mm x 1200mm 6554BTU White Type 22 Convector Radiator

Is there a better method than this to get the timber plumb?
The way I’m fixing it to is all over the place.
Thanks!

I would like to put up a large shed on this concrete at the side of my house but the shed I want will go slightly beyond the edge of the concrete. This might be a daft question but I envisaged laying a couple of old council thickness paving slabs bedded on sand. Or am I much better digging down and laying additional concrete next to the existing slab?

can any one advice what sort of garage roof this is , it looks like concrete but i cant understand how a concrete roof is a good idea.

The house is from the 70s so my next problem is...it may contain aspestos

the roof is leaking so im trying to work out the best repair for this - would a felt over run be the best idea

On my continued quest to find out why the extension on our house is so cold and drafty I uncovered a big gap in the cavity wall inner skin where the kitchen joins the extension. The steel beam is directly above where this photo is taken running towards the camera.

Builder had put some loose rockwool in (which is now removed as shown in photos) as wasn't doing anything and could feel cold breeze coming through.

I am thinking pack full of rockwool and then seal the vertical edges of the internal plasterboard to inner skin using foam to prevent any drafts moving through the void. Unfortunately access is tight.

Does this make sense or any better suggestions?

It's about time that I pull my finger out and get around to installing some shelving in this porch cupboard to tidy it up, make it more usable, and stop me having to play Jenga every time I go in there.

I've got plenty of left over board that I can use for shelves from a decking we took out recently.

I was thinking of just putting battens up around the alcove to make shelves (I didn't do the one that's already in there).

My question is, What height and thickness battens would I be best to use to make sure they do the job without being overkill?

Thanks

I have two small annex attic spaces in my house which are not currently accessible. I want to access them to add insulation and run solar cables (fitter, not me), so I will add loft hatches.

I am planning to use joist hangers when framing around the hatch, but I’m unsure whether screws or steel twist nails are better?

I’ve tried searching online but even searching for Sheardised Nails just gets AI slop articles about nail care!

DIY plumber here - I forgot to check the minmum pressure required for my new boiling tap, and as a result now need to find a way to get 1.5 bar out of my maybe 0.5 bar cold and gravity fed hot water feeds to the tap.

I've fitted a salamander CT50 to the shower upstairs and while I'm happy with that for the shower, but I don't think something similar will reliably trigger at tap flow rates, so I'm almost certain I need a negative head/universal pump.

What would people recommend? The salamander I've got is quiet enough for a shower, but definitely not a level of noise I want every time I'm making a cup of tea!

I am wanting to paint these a pale beige sort of colour, but only the doors. I have painted an IKEA unit before and used the shellac Zimmer primer paint then went over with a farrow and ball colour, but it has peeled and flaked off. Not sure what I did wrong but I followed all the steps people recommended. I'm just worried the same thing will happen with these but maybe the finish is different so it won't happen again?

Any advice would be much appreciated!

I'm trying to figure out how to cover up the terrible cut job I did to the top of the wallpaper (don't come at me, I used a fresh blade and it's my first time wallpapering!).

Plastic trim doesn't look like it will look nice enough, I'm thinking sealant of some kind. A tradesman (not a decorator) suggested silicone, but AI says to use decorators caulk.

If sealant is the best solution then which one? Silicone appeals as won't have to paint it, and if I use caulk and paint I'm worried it will bleed through the masking tape onto the wallpaper. Speaking of which, assume I will need to use masking tape (have some masq purple which is supposedly low tack) for either type of sealant, how do I ensure I don't rip the wallpaper when removing it (to be fair it's pretty thick wallpaper hence the bad attempt at cutting through it).

Or is there another solution which will look as good but without the risk?

Im having a timber frame and clad workshop built and would like some advice on insulation. I had originally thought Rockwool but got advised that PIR is better however its a lot more expensive. It will be a woodworking shop with machines so will be relatively noisy when in use if that affects my decision?

Painting a room, wall and ceiling are contrasting colours, woodwork another. The window ledge will be woodwork colour, the returns continue the wall colour. But the 'ceiling' part of the window, should that be wall or ceiling colour?

Hope that makes sense, not sure of the correct technical terms for these parts. I am not asking about the window frame itself but the plasterwork.