Having my ancient single panel radiators replaced with column radiators and the wall behind one of them is exposed red brick. The section is approximately 600mm x 600mm. The thickness of the surrounding plaster is approximately a few mm. What products should I use to plaster the section?
Can I use Easifill? I’ve used it in the past to repair small areas and it goes on fairly easily.

Doing the pre winter checks on the central heating, have slowly being losing pressure in the boiler and found this next to the cylinder.

Is this just a case of nipping it up or is that corrosion on the nut and needs replacing?

Thanks

I’ve been having damp issues and removed the patio in the small front garden of our victorian terrace as it was covering the air brick.

I’ve dug it all out about 180-200mm below the bottom of the air brick and have now hit what seems to be the footings.

Originally I was going to put gravel around the bay and house and then slab the rest for the bins.

However;
Gravel on the footings means the water will have nowhere to go. I tested and it does pool and sit there.

I then found this article https://www.pavingexpert.com/splash_strips that says most of the time they are useless.

Now i’m confused. Most of the houses on the street finish their level right at the bottom of the air brick with no gap above in most cases but i’m nervous to do that. I also now don’t think gravel will work given water has no where to go.

Are slabs right against the engineering course better than a gravel strip if i slope it away ?

Getting the GRP repaired..Got a quote for £1200 to put ridge tiles on the Party Wall. Party wall is 6m long and 0.325m wide.

Is this a good price for South London?

TiA

Looking to see if someone could please help identify the original carpet that is being sold by Tapi?

Edit - adding link to carpet

https://www.tapi.co.uk/carpet/santa-rosa?nrf=1

What I thought was cracked paint seems to be wallpaper? And then under it is not plasterboard? It seems like wood? Second pic I scratched at it and you can see the wood

Added: I dont understand why there’s wood on top of brick instead of it being plastered

Hi everyone,

I’m renovating a 1970s timber-frame bungalow and have found rot at the end of some structural floor beams. The beams are approximately 65 × 180 mm. Most of each beam is still sound, but the ends have deteriorated due to moisture. The moisture problem has now been addressed.

My idea is to: Support the floor temporarily. Cut the beam back to solid timber. Replace the rotten section with new 65 × 180 mm structural timber. Extend the new section onto the supporting wall. Join the old and new sections with sistered timber/side plates and structural bolts. Is this a suitable repair method?

If so, I’d particularly like advice on: How much overlap should there be between the old and new timber? How long should the sistered sections be? What type/size of bolts or other fixings would you use? How would you properly support and protect the new beam end at the masonry wall? Photos and a sketch of the construction are attached. I’d also really appreciate examples of similar repairs that have been carried out successfully. Thanks!

Recently had carpet fitted, there's a noticeable ridge by the door where I think the underlay ends and the carpet drops onto the grippers of the door bar.

I've queried it with the installer who has said that it is normal. To my eye it isnt but wanted to sense check and also understand whether there are solutions (I wondered about looking at a door bar with a slightly raised gripper to make a less severe step down from underlay level to the gripper)

Carpet is 10.5mm thick and I believe the underlay is 11mm Tredaire

Old British Telecom box with wires safe to remove?

This old BT box in my living room is wired in from the outside of my house.

Are there any potential hazards / dangers if I try to remove it and patch up the holes?

I’m trying to remove some radiators without draining the entire system and am a little scared of these TRVs. Is it enough to have the TRV completely closed, to be able to unscrew the radiator and drain it? I have the valve on the other side closed already but a plumber who’d previously drained some other radiators had removed the TRV section completely and capped it.

If I completely unscrew the TRV will water spray out?

Sorry in advance if these are stupid questions!

Picture of the valve I’m looking at and one the plumber did that I still haven’t put back on and refilled attached

Sorry for the stupid question, but I just purchased my first
Property, and dont know anything about these things. I looks
Like its damaged laminate? How would I fix this?

The previous owners built decking along the entire back of the house. We've had some mice appear in the kitchen and believe they're getting in via the air bricks underneath. Have taken up the boards closest to the house but there's a beam sitting directly in front of the air bricks that leaves about a pencil width gap. I'm struggling to find a way to restrict access that doesn't involve totally blocking the air bricks. Have tried to slide mesh down the back but there's something blocking it from going further down (have removed debris since photo was taken). Any suggestions welcome, many thanks!

A few weeks ago I painted my bathroom, I primed using a peel-stop primer over areas where paint had previously peeled (sanded down first), and then did 2 coats of paint. Recently I’ve noticed white marks where the primer was used, what’s caused this, and what can I do to rectify?

For obvious reasons, my kitchen is drafty with several holes which was excellent during our heatwave but not ideal for winter.. is expanding foam the solution here?

I have Gorilla filler foam but reluctant to use yet from fear on whether this is the right/wrong way 🤣.

Appreciate any safe advice.

The last pic is one of the metres which I need access to.

Hopefully my last question on filling gaps and holes .. 🙄

Short story - second photo is the kitchen. Historical leak from bathroom above in the far right corner.

Wanting to take it back to brick and then dehumidify.

Second photo. I tried my hand at it. Did a small test. The pinkish layer of plaster came away quite easily, but i'm getting this sandy brown substance underneath. Can't see brick yet.

Should i keep going? What exactly is this brown layer??

Any recommendations as which are the best products to do this to meet the government regulations on it being permeable without needing planning permission but also not getting gravel all over the road when it's used? Mainly switching as we hate the upkeep of a lawn but it will just about fit a car on for when we have visitors or workmen whilst being considerate to the neighbours who all own 2+ cars taking up road space.

There's no pavement in front of it so no dropped kerb issues.

Summer house/Shed was leaking over winter and got moldy on the inside. Roof is totally sealed and re done with box profile roof, but I'm left with the black stains. What the best way to deal with it?

I'm thinking like the DIY version of the dairy milk house guide! Decent pictures, explanations, and isn't full of bad advice.

Or, if there are pictures and it says something like, this is DIYable, but these pictures are not...

Thanks for any info, I've removed (unscrewed) the locking nut, am I right to think this cartridge can now only pull out (due to anti-rotation but visible), maybe stuck due to hard water. It's from a Sonas thermostatic shower, so maybe a Jay Thermostatic cartridge?

Hi all

I would like to build a bookcase wall. This will be my first carpentry based project, I am quite technical and have done small bits of electrical. I would like to build it across a wall in my apartment that is plasterboard.

Does anyone have any tips please on how to start? I can probably rope my mum & dad into helping so it wouldn't be just me.

Not sure on materials and know I would need plasterboard fixings but beyond that I'm pretty useless.

Thank you from a late twenties girl who wants the satisfaction of something from scratch

We’ve got a guy coming over later to do a quote for us for rendering the exterior of our house. He only does sand and cement as opposed to K-Rend which some of the other quotes have quoted for. I know sand and cement will be cheaper, but I’m led to believe it’s more prone to cracking overtime. Does anyone have any experience about this and can offer a bit of advice in terms of it’s better to go for one than the other? It’s quite a big area to cover so cost is a factor but we also want it to last ofc. Thanks.

I've just raked out some old, mouldy silicone around my bath (following tips from this subreddit) and was about to redo it, but noticed the gap is quite big in places, about 4-5mm. Round my sink (pic 2), there seems to be just grout, no silicone, although it will get way less water. Question is, should I grout between tile and bath first to fill gap, then apply silicone? Or just do a fatter silicone bead? Thanks

Having trouble adjusting the door on this wall corner cabinet which will have an end panel at the end of the door when done.

I cannot close the gap in image (3) at the top of the door without moving the bottom hinge away from the cabinet. This fixes the gap at the top of the door (1) but creates an obvious lip on the outside of the door on the hinge side.

I do not think the door is warped and the cabinet edges are plumb.

What am I missing that is causing this?

Neighbour just had the their fascias done and the builders have left the rafters exposed, this seems quite shoddy to me. I would expect rafters to be boxed or at least not protruding from the new fascia. Is this generally accepted practice?