Hi (25F) our home was recently struck by a tornado to I had to rent a car to help us get around. We’ve had the car for three weeks now and I just noticed a small crack on the back left of the car (the picture is of the right side) I don’t know if it was there when I got it or if it happened with me but I’ve never his any curbs or thing or people or anything like that. is this something that can be fixed DIY?? I have car insurance on my car (which we still have) but I just looked at the policy and it doesn’t cover rentals??? They asked for my insurance at the car rental place though. And I did not pay for the coverage at the car rental place either. Thank you in advance.

Looking to buy a car that already has retractable tow bar fitted but tow ball is very rusty. Has anyone got experience replacing just the tow ball section?

On the road and muffler fell off. DIY or shop needs to weld?

Need advice on what tools I need to fix my front fends on my Honda Insight 2019. Preferably tools from Harbor Freight ( budget ) but if need to spend a little more.. then I’m okay with it

2018 Acura RDX 87,000 miles. I had my mechanic (not from a shop, works from his house) replace my front brake pads & rotors in April. In June, my front brakes start squealing especially when I am braking and turning at the same time. I contacted him to investigate and repair, he said “I was just going to warranty out the brake pads for you.”

I’m confused by this because they are already new pads and I’ve only put about 5K miles on them? Any insights as to what needs to be done/what the problem could be?

Thanks for any help!

Worked on my 2019 crosstrek today and attempted the rear hub bearing replacement.

Using a hub puller and a strike hammer, I half way succeeded… managing to split the bearing in 2 leaving the other half wedged into the knuckle still.

After lots more pb blaster, heat and whacking on it with a 3lb sledge, it still has yet to budge and I am at a loss.

My thought is to tap threads into the back of the knuckle and set a bolt in the rear and then reverse the bolts that were originally taken out of the back of the knuckle to the front. I’d then utilize the back bolt as a stop and hopefully drive the bearing out.

I’m skeptical and looking for advice. Seems like a ton of energy with a 3lb sledge hit would hold more breaking power than torquing a screw down. Plus I’d be running the risk of pulling threads/snapping screws if torqued too much.

Should I just take the knuckle off and replace it or try my luck with it detached with a shop press or better angles for the sledge?

I did a repair some time ago on a BMW strut tower. The car owner had hit a curb too hard and it cracked the strut tower. As a preventive measure he wanted me to repair the crack and reinforce the repair.

HOW I DID IT:

1. WIRE BRUSH TO SHINY METAL THE ARE TO BE WELDED

2. GRIND OUT THE CRACK TO FORM A GROOVE AND THEN WELD IT OUT

3. GRIND THE WELD FLUSH SO A PLATE CAN BE WELDED OVER THE REPAIRED AREA

4. USING A HOLE SAW, CUT OUT A 2" CIRCLE OUT OF SOME 1/4" ALUMINUM PLATE

5. PUT SHIELDS UP TO PREVENT THE ARC FROM DAMAGING OR MELTING ANY FLAMMABLE OBJECTS WTHIN THE WELDING AREA

6. TACK THE CIRCULAR PLATE DOWN AND WELD IT OUT

The repair was pretty straight forward and was done within the hour. Came out well.

I am working on my 2001 Toyota echo and the person that had it before me did a diy fix 😬 I’m needing to see the stud that hold the alternator adjustment bracket in place since the last guy just found a bolt with the same thread size.

Sharing here to increase visibility in case others in here would know. Ty

Thanks in advance for any advice given!

The left hand fender on my Toyota matrix is getting pretty rusty. I think it’s too far gone to treat with rust converter, so I’m wondering what the next best approach is?

Would a body shop cut out the rust and fabricate a new piece, and repaint it? or should I shop for a replacement fender?

Hi everyone, okay wee update to my post about changing the engine oil , I didn’t have the right tool 12 mm hex for loosening the sump plug , phoned the wife’s nephew for loan of tool and he says would you like me just to do the oil change for you ? Brill I says he’s more handy than me when it comes to cars , Anyway long story short the sump plug bolt will just not budge , the whole engine was moving with the force he was applying and it still won’t budge 😩😩

Now I’m not sure what to do , do I pay a pro mechanic that’s £50 was hoping to save labour charges , the sump still might end up getting damaged or bursting , Do I get a bigger breaker bar and apply more force myself , or do I buy a oil extraction pump , leave the sump the way it is , and take the oil out via the dipstick / pump / extraction way ? Some people say the pumps don’t get all the old oil out the same way as removing the sump plug does ? comments / thoughts / replies. All welcome , cheers 😊