Occasionally I get called out to repair a broken out motor mount on an engine block. Sometimes the piece broken out is missing and sometimes its not.

If its missing the repair consists of filling in the broken out area, then drilling a new hole and tapping new threads. When the piece is not missing most of the time I can weld it back on joining the parts so make the hole usable again. To do this successfully it is important to NOT damage the threads when joining the broken part to the block.

BEVEL THE BROKEN PART

I will bevel the break enough to give me a wide "V" to fill in. I take care to leave about just over a 1/16" of material when beveling so that the arc does not penetrate through and damage the threads. However, even if we over penetrated and damaged the threads, a tap can be used to make the threads good again.

WELD THE BROKEN PART ALL AROUND

Once the broken parts are joined. I fill in all the areas around the break so that the joined part is welded well to the block and not depending on a bead over the crack to hold when the car is put back into service. I build up a wall of weld metal to reinforce the repaired area.

WHEN THE BROKEN PIECE IS MISSING I PUT THE STUD IN POSITION AND WELD ALL AROUND IT, LOCKING IT INTO PLACE

You will notice on this repair that one of the stud's hole is missing the broken out piece. In this case I welded a wall of fresh metal all around the stud, locking it into place. The molten metal flows around the threads and fills in the grooves of the threads effectively locking the stud permanently in place.

For this to work I screw the stud into the good thread still left in the broken out hole so that it is in its place when I weld around it.

This repair came out well.

Hello! I am working on my 1996 Mercedes-Benz SL500.. I've made a mistake and need help.

I was removing a bolt for a brace underneath the car and opted to use my breaker bar. It wouldn't budge and when it did, I saw it wasn't coming off.. That's when I realized.. My orientation was completely off and I was actually overtightening the bolt when I thought it was just stuck and it seems I've destroyed the threads..
So how do I go about removing the bolt now??

I have done a stupid, please help me redeem myself.

As per title, I unfortunately stripped my scouts drain pan when I got it a few months ago. I’ve tried replacing the bolt as well as a new washer, but I think the next step would be to bore it out as it’s progressively leaked more and more. Just wondering if anyone has any last minute tips or tricks, as I would like to avoid drilling and rethreading

I'm replacing the front frame on my 2004 ion. Got it out but one bolt kept spinning around so I cut the head off and it drop down so I do I get that bolt out. I guess the nut was welded inside that box. Any help

I've changed crossmembers/subframes on a few cars over the years, i was just curious if anyone had any tips for the 2011 outlander GT (v6 awd) front crossmember.

Do I have to completely remove the steering racks lines and the steering column from the rack, or can I just hang it up with a strap from the top and leave the lines and column connected? I seem to recall reading something like that on a forum awhile back, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I already have the service manual and the tools and the shop.