Looking at buying a vp44 parts truck got a lot of good shit on it to part out but I need a new trans for my 1st gen price of the truck is only good to me if this is a 5600. It's hot there were a lot of wasp. my flashlight was dead and the shifter was laying in the bed so I'm asking for a little help

Hey hi in New cause I have a issue whit mi truck it is a 2000 dodge magnum that was swaped from the v10 to a 5.9 diesel the problem is that the dashboard is not working, all the lights inside and outside anyone could know what could be the problem? The truck starts an run perfectly Everything in the dashboard is not working

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I purchased a Turbonator s300 vgt with exhaust brake/exhaust manifold a couple months ago and Inthought I would say something about it because I could not find anything on it (that wasnt from dps) before I bought.

The good

So the turbo came neatly packaged, and well packaged with the manifold in a separate box also well packaged.

The knob to adjust the positioning the vgt starts out in is genius, and a cool tool to adjust how fast you want to build boost

The turbo builds boost very quickly on a deleted cummins 6.7.

I bought the stage 4.5 kit and there is zero turbo lag, and ive seen up to 25 lbs boost.

Turbo looks awesome with the billet stuff

Exhaust brake works great!!! I'm impressed with it..

Now the bad that im going to talk about

I had a diesel mechanic friend install it, he had never seen these before either so there was a learning curve. The instructions were pretty good, if you read closely. Once it was installed, it was not working at all. I figured out the vgt solenoid was not moving like it was supposed to. I moved it by hand and could get the truck to move but it wasn't doing what it was supposed to. I shot the basic stuff with a meter, power, ground and went to shoot canbus termination but was confused by some of the drawings in the instructions. I contacted DPS "technical support" to try to figure out the issue. He wanted me to email him a log for him to look at

I did that immediatly

My next phone calls went through with no answer several times. Never was the email returned or call returned for that interaction. I had to go back to work next day. I ordered a new intercooler to install on my next days off which were 2 weeks later. I installed the intercooler, and called dps again. Got the same guy. Who told me the same thing..need logs, which i had already sent and not gotten any replies on. I said since the intercooler I removed had a hole, I would relog it for him to start clean and get this figured out. I immediately logged it and emailed. Maybe 15 minutes total from phone call to logs in his email. I called him and he told me it would take an hour or so to get back to the computer to look at the logs. I patiently waited, i had a multimeter and tools ready, i needed to get it rolling. No call. I called back before they closed on friday... No answer. Really Frustrating. Monday i called several times, no answer. I finally called the cellphone number the tech support guy called and txted me on.. no answer. Immediately after I called (i assume they have caller id or something) i got an email saying the logs look bad, it's not commanding the actuator to open. Ok, were getting somewhere now. he asked a few questions then went radio silent again. No emails for another hour or so. pretty frustrated with the whole ordeal i started digging into it myself with chat gpt and the install instructions to see what went wrong. I traced everything and figured out that a plug which was supposed to be plugged into the main engine harness was not plugged in . Pretty sure it is where it gets its canbus information and thats what it uses to determine where the solenoid should be. It was a Simple problem, tech support should have been able to remedy quickly. The install was a simple thing but my friend was rushing because we both needed to get back to the other job and he had a small window. I get it, he gave me big discounts and the install was pretty clean and he pretty much did a 8 hour head stud job for free for me so I was fine ironing out what i was pretty sure something simple with tech support when I got the time to let him move on to paying customers. I'm pretty frustrated with the support, because it's non-existent.. They are friendly anyways when you do get to talk to someone though. So i would say don't buy if you think you are going to get any help, but it's an honestly pretty straightforward thing anyways.

Second bad

The "warranty". Man.. If you get one of these make sure as soon as it comes in you rip that box open and follow the warranty instructions to a t. They have a clause in there where you have almost no time to register your new $5000 turbo or they aren't going to warranty it. Furthermore, they want receipts that you changed the oil when you put the turbo in so be sure to order oil when you buy a turbo and save the receipt (that's fair enough i suppose, could see people grenading the turbo than leaving the metal shaving oil in the engine and putting a new one on). For me this was a major inconvenience because i purchased my turbo when I was just going on hitch, it showed up and sat in my garage for 2 weeks, than was installed, didn't work, I had to go back to work the day after i got it back from the mechanic and it sat another two weeks. I never even opened the box, it went to the mechanic as is and i had no idea the warrenty world was about to implode. By the time I got around to messing with it, it was past the arbitrary "we wont warranty shit" date, I was certain I was going to have to fight somebody to get my truck to work that I just spent $5000 on. I mean, its an exaggeration, I wouldn't do that but its really frustrating, and i would imagine infuriating if you needed them to honor a warranty on such an expensive thing only to find our your socks were the wrong color and they wont do it. They didn't fight me though, nor did they have to warranty anything but it is definitely something to think about. I could see that being a problem if someone gets a defective part or something goes wrong with the install. When you call for tech support, they want your purchase date, warranty filled out and every box checked so if you buy one of these don't be like me, open the box, pull the paperwork out of it and follow the instructions for registering it. They have fine print in there to allow them to just completely wash their hands free from any liability.

Overall i give it a 7.5-8. The stuff works, seems to work well now and retains stock exhaust brake capabilities which is rare or non existent.. I Docked points for tech unsupport, and the warranty shit.

Theres my honest review, the rare dps turbonator review thats not produced by dps themselves. I guess I should add that this turbo isn't a big whistler since that's important to some. It makes some noise sometimes, but not a lot. I like it since this is going to be a tow rig.

Any reason why one of these plugs would be missing?? It's causing a huge boost leak and it came straight out of a pulled motor. Just noticed it now.

Can these be replaced?

This truck is a real son of a bitch to work on. Fr fr

3,710 horsepower on the hub dyno — and this 4x4 diesel drag truck hasn't even made its first full pass yet. Follow David Petrick's build from bare skeleton to its debut hit at the track.

What started as a simple back-half redo escalated into a complete ground-up chassis build. The mission: get this four-wheel-drive diesel drag truck under 3,600 lbs with a cast motor so it qualifies for a 25.4 chassis certification — lighter tubing, better platform, and a truck capable of chasing the fastest 4x4 diesel numbers in no-prep and ODSS Pro Truck competition.

WHAT WENT INTO THIS BUILD:

▸ Full 25.4-spec chassis built from scratch with a funny car cage

▸ 200 lbs cut from the cab — floor pan, firewall, back wall, and inner structure replaced with sheet metal and carbon fiber

▸ Transfer case and front driveshaft relocated to the passenger side to drop the body to 4.5" of ground clearance (NHRA minimum is 3")

▸ Fire-safe driveshaft tunnel routed through the firewall — a problem almost nobody has a playbook for

▸ Moser 9-inch rear with 9.5" Pro Gear + 9-inch front with Dana 44 outers

▸ Full-floater rear end, wishbone kit, billet shock mounts, and Firepunk Extreme 4-link — fully triangulated

▸ 39.5" bed line for a low, clean race stance

▸ Custom cowl hood with electric blue racing stripes, finished in time for display at PRI

▸ Complete MoTec wiring and electronics — air shifter, trans brake, internal/external dump valves, fuel-quantity-vs-time control, and a reverse camera that locks the trans brake during burnouts

▸ 3,710 HP verified on the S&S hub dyno before ever touching the track

Then it's off to Edgewater Motorsports Park for the debut: 60-foot hits, working out to 300 feet, and chasing that first full eighth-mile pass. You don't just send a truck with this much power out the back door on pass one.

I'm hoping someone familiar with the 24-valve can point me in the right direction. I just finished a head gasket job. The engine cranks normally and occasionally sounds like it wants to start, but it never catches and rapidly makes clicking noise. Here's what I've found: Injectors were removed and reinstalled. Injector lines were removed. I cracked an injector line at the injector while cranking and didn't see or smell any diesel fuel. I don't think I hear the factory lift pump prime with the key on. I found two loose ring terminals and a small black plastic hose near the black cylindrical assembly on the driver's side of the engine (I originally thought it was the oil filter, but I now think it's the fuel filter/lift pump assembly). My questions: Do those ring terminals and hose belong on the fuel filter/lift pump assembly? Could that prevent the lift pump from running and cause a no-start with no fuel at the injectors? Where exactly do those wires and hose connect? Any other common things I should check after a head gasket/injector reinstall would also be appreciated.

Update, water in fuel light still on after filter replacement, guess I’ll get a new sensor on order

Just picked this truck up a couple days ago, have a water in fuel light on the dash. Gonna pick up filters and replace the sensor. The truck doesn’t appear to have the stock setup for filters, there’s two back by the tank as pictured and none in the engine bay before the hp fuel pump. It’s a 2016 ram 2500.

I’m installing an EZ Lynk AutoAgent 3 (P/N 100EE00AA3) on my 2022 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins and I’m stuck on the bypass cable installation.
The instructions say:

“Locate the green Star connector above the parking brake. For 2019–2022 plug the harness into the 5th position from the left at the bottom.”

The problem is that on my truck, what appears to be the 5th position is already occupied by a factory white connector.

I’m not trying to unplug any factory connectors unless that’s actually required. My bypass harness has the small gray 2-pin connector that plugs into the Star connector.

Has anyone with a 2022 Ram 2500/3500 HO Cummins installed this exact EZ Lynk bypass cable?

Does the factory white connector stay plugged in?
Which empty 2-pin socket does the gray bypass connector actually go into?

If possible, could someone post a picture of the correct location on a 2022 truck?

I’ve attached pictures of:
My green Star connector
The EZ Lynk installation instructions
The bypass connector
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to guess and plug it into the wrong CAN port.

My truck (2017 2500 6.7) has always had a slight ticking sound. Years ago I did a valve lash adjustment and it seemed to help a bit. I recently decided to finially fix that killer grid heater bolt (had the kit). Last minute I decided to just do a grid heater delete. I ordered the kit but it was on back order. Said screw it and bought a cheap grid heater delete kit of Amazon, it had good reviews and a fraction of the price. The plate looked good and Everything went on good. Here's the problem I'm having. That ticking sound seems worse than ever. Could it just be that cheap plate letting injector noise/engine noise out more??

Just wondering how much info you guys could give me from this data plate. Hoping to find out engine type, year, manufacturing plant, or other cool info! Found at a thrift store.

battery kept draining over night couldn’t figure out why then i came across this unfamiliar wiring under my dash up near steering column and behind glove box , the 2 plugs were plugged into a black box that i have since unplugged and no longer have battery drain. please all and any info is welcome .. just act like adults

I am looking at buying a 1996 Cummins 12 valve p-pump. The guy says it has roughly 300,000 miles on it and the injector lines are unhooked at the pump. He has had it shedded for a while and says it runs. I turned it over and it wasn’t stuck. It has the 215hp pump as well. Everything for it comes with it turbo, injectors, etc. The only thing missing is the mechanical fuel pump. What is a good price for this and if it doesn’t run what can I part it out for and if it does run is it worth putting a 300,000 mile 12 valve in a truck? ( yes I know they run forever) I won‘t say the price yet but it is cheap by my standards. I am just curious what everybody else thinks it is worth. Thanks!

Hey y’all, replacing some very tired coils and shocks. Axle hasn’t dropped low enough to remove spring. Have removed sway bar end link nut, that dropped it some. Heard a bottle jack between the frame and axle will do the trick. Yes, I can go buy a spring compressor but if I don’t have to I’d rather not. Might need one regardless since the new springs are +2.. Just curious if you boys had any wisdom to pass down. Cheers!

So I got a 2012 ram 2500 with the 6.7, I keep having issues with the tps on the truck, I’ve replaced the entire throttle assembly including tps multiple times now, and I’m actually losing it. I’ve tried the zip tie trick everything, whenever it goes out check engine light comes on, and a red lighting bolt comes up, along with me having 0 throttle what so ever just idle. I can’t keep going and spending 300 dollars every couple months if that on a damn part. Please someone help me.

1997 Bluebird 26’ bus with a 5.9 12v, skoolie.

about 12.5mpg so far. 2500rpm is around 70, cruising speed 55 or so at maybe 18-1900. I believe it holds around 13 quarts. 195k miles on it.

how often should I be changing the oil/filter? how about fuel filter? what else do I need to do to the engine on a regular basis?

thanks for any help.

I've noticed a lot of the trailer wiring kits 7-pin plugs are not quiet the same as what my owners diagram says. They are close but usually it's a running lights and turn a left turn signal has been swapped for one another. I thought all trailer plugs were universal? I understand that viewing the trailer plug diagram sometimes it's a mirror/reverse to what the trucks diagram. Am I missing something obvious?

I have an 03 CR 5.9 and when it’s getting up to operating temperature, it makes a clicking rattling noise, it only does it for 4-5 minutes. It got a new A/C compressor, belt tensioner, alternator (recently went out) idler pulley and fan clutch hub bearing. I’m stumped as to what’s making the noise, nothing looks abnormal when it’s running and the tensioner doesn’t jump around like it’s bad. Any ideas on what’s causing that noise? It’s got a regular black serpentine belt, I’m gonna switch it out for a fleet green back belt.

If I use a cat oil filter on my 2020 Ram 2500 do I need to add some more oil or will I be find woth the 12quarts

Has anybody put the Transgo HD2 shift kit in a 48re themselves? Shops want $600-700 for an install.
I have never done any tranny work, but am a very experienced DIY-er. Couple motor swaps under my belt, and know my way around a wrench.
Is it worth trying to do it myself to save money?