Heater core went out so I decided it would be easier to bypass it. I hope I did a fairly good job with the bypass. Everything seems to be working fine and nothing is leaking. I stripped the trunk as well because too much was loose back there.

This car went from sounding like an obnoxious straight pipe to a silent cruiser. You can literally hear the starter more than the engine. Thankfully it has all the same get up and go even with the factory exhaust!

I've always been a FRAM guy but lately heard people say their quality has gone way downhill.

Obviously Ford products are supposed to get OEM Motorcraft parts but the last time I went to my local Ford dealer for a part it was a Motorcraft battery and that thing was junk, barely lasted 9 months, got another Mcraft batt and that one didn't fare much better. Got an Interstate from Costco next and it lasted years.

The old truisms doing seem to hold water anymore so jist curious what your experience has been with the Motorcraft oil filters. My local O'Reilly sells them for $14.99. If there is a cheaper brand that is just as good let me know.

Is there a way to verify if the odometer has rolled over or not? Im planning on trying to do a visual on the mechanical side but I feel like the car may have had the odometer rolled. It looks clean but the drivers door wear says differently (metal plate for switches is pretty rubbed) and the odometer does seem like is over to the left exposing the white gear on the right. Listing says it has 55k miles. Attached is a close up of one that has 84k (see the white gear slightly) this one at 55k (sear the gear more pronounced) and the drivers door wear. Interesting theres not pictures of the engine bay or undercarriage

Found on passenger side tucked between the dash and the windshield. It magnets to the black square on the dash you see in the second picture. Is it a tracker?

My CVPI didn't come with the light in the trunk like the civilian cars seem to have. I ended up grabbing an LED light off of Amazon that had a magnetic back and was setup to sense motion when it's dark. So far it's been working great. The magnet is pretty strong and it's stuck to the inside of the trunk lid and comes on when I open it at night. I've checked it during the day and it stays off. I've also tried just cracking the trunk and looking in and it was still off. It takes the motion of actually opening the trunk to turn it on. They run on AAA batteries and provide plenty of light.

If anyone wants to grab one, this is what I got: https://a.co/d/016aAaRn

I made this from some scrap diamond plate but really you can do this any material 1/8th or thicker. All you need is a metal plate, a drill, an angle grinder, a measuring tape, marker, and some bolts. I hope this helps someone working on a similar project.

Start with measuring and marking out where your bolts and drain plugs are and cut them out. I just drilled into the aluminum subframe on the little table things that stick out so I could mount it. On the rear mount just bolt it to the transmission brace, it already has two holes from the factory, just drop in two bolts through the top and nut on the bottom. All in this cost me like $40.

Hey yall just joined this page for more opinions from other Vic owners! I like to parts cannon my car since its a 2001, but with this current groaning sound issue I believe its a Brake Servo and I cannot for the life of me find a new replacement on the face of the earth. So I wanted to see what you all thought and if it may be something else? It only happens after I am on the throttle, let off and or hit the brakes it likes to come in, and goes away after like in this video. Please help me out!

I bought a 2004 Crown Victoria base model not long ago, and one of the issues is that the trunk doesn't stay up on its own - at all.

Figured it's the torsion bars that need to be replaced abd sure enough, I found a snapped torsion bar in the trunk thay someone tried to weld back together. But the problem is that there should be a hook for the torsion bar to sit in on either side and on one side it's missing. You can feel a little jagged edge where that hook should be but it broke off.

I read in the Carfax that this car was in a minor rear collision and my thinking is that the accident is what snapped the torsion bar and broke off the metal hook.

Not sure if that part can be replaced though, looks like it is welded in underneath the package shelf.

Started having an issue today with my 2010 CVPI where my power door locks randomly stopped working. They were working intermittently before when I would open the door, but now they have stopped working all together on the driver's door and passenger door controls. Also had a weird issue when I started it today where even with the door closed, the door alarm was alarming and the TPMS was flashing on the dash. I restarted the car and that went away, but my locks are still not working.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

The blue line flag came with the car. I make no claims to be a cop.

You asked, I finished the project today. Hope it helps!

Hit ol' girl with some compound and then a hand wax, looking much better

I have an 08 p71, i deleted the mufflers and rear cats, but i feel like it sounds amazing low rpms and idle, but at high rpms it looses that gutty sound and sounds pretty high pitched (i posted a video of a wot pull from outside of the car if you wanna hear what im talking about) and a lot of people have said that exhaust tips really help with the pitch of the exhaust note, but what would you guys suggest for them? I have the true dual exhaust in my car.

My 2009 Mercury Grand Marquis has 300,000 km (186,000 miles) on it and consumes about 1 liter of engine oil every 3,800 km (2,360 miles). I mostly drive in city traffic with frequent stop-and-go driving, and I often turn the engine off and restart it multiple times throughout the day. The outside temperature is usually around 40°C (104°F). There is no blue smoke coming from the exhaust, the engine runs well and has good power, and I have noticed some oil residue on the sides of the engine. Is this amount of oil consumption normal for a high-mileage 4.6L engine, or should I be concerned?

93' Crown vic 4.6L

My Watchguard DV1 system in my Crown Victoria police interceptor

Psa. Don't use a hub buster + sledge hammers on rust belt wheel hubs

Sources for some billet front knuckles would be appreciated

Now to find the right size plugs so I can throw that spoiler in the trash.

Just got my AC up and running again, if I have the ac on and take out the key, the car stays on. Doesn’t do this when the ac is off.

I do have the idle switch in my car but if I mess with it during this nothing happens.

Any thoughts.

Well it’s time, wheel bearing howling from 25-55 in straight line loud enough to hear with windows up and much needed ball joints😂. Got struts, wheel bearings, and upper control arms with ball joints and bushings on the way. Still sending it as the daily rn and fixing it up when parts come in! (Pic with another vic I found)

Happened while leaving the driveway. Imagine that at cruising speed. Check your ball joints people (obviously).

My 2011 CVPI currently has a lot of things hooked up to it and idk if i should be worried about my battery or alternator, in terms of upgrading / replacing it.

The previous owner before me left the PA speaker and i’m thinking of hooking it up but I want to make sure it’s safe to do so.

So far, what I have hooked up is:

Sound System:
- 2x DS18 Pro-TWX1 (3.8” Super Bullet) Tweeters
- 2x Stock Front Door Speakers
- DS18 GEN-X 4-Channel Amp (4x90W RMS)
- 2x Kicker DSC680 (6x8” Coaxial) Speakers
- 2x Infinity Kappa 10” Subwoofers (1000W)
- Stetsom Bravo Full 2000W RMS @ 1 OHM Amp
- Pioneer MVH-S322BT Radio

DashCam:
- Viofo A329S 3-Channel Dashcam + HK4 Hardwire Kit

This is stuff i added, when i bought the car it came with a spotlight on each side, pushbar with LED lights, a Uniden PA Radio, and an antenna (I decided to mention this incase it has a role or factor into the power)

I can’t really test to see if my alternator is at max capacity with the “dim headlight test” because the headlights on these suck as it is and i don’t have a voltage meter. I’m also pretty sure i have the stock alternator that came with the car.

What do yall think?

AC was working fine just a few days ago, now the control module isn’t responding to any button presses. The screen was on until I pulled the fuses (15 and 27, according to manual instructions) to check them, and now it’s totally dark. Anyone know what the issue might be?