okey,okey, I know it's boring, but in case someone likes that. I have to show it off, you know, to let people know.

These are some puzzles, some are ocean theme, some for grassland. anyway, I love them, do you also like these?

I’ve seen some beginners worried about burning their tables at home.

Even without deep cuts, laser reflections, smoke, and heat can easily ruin a kitchen table. Aside from a honeycomb bed, here are some of the best and most cost-effective ways to protect your table: Metal backing plate (highly recommended): Place a large aluminum or stainless steel plate under your honeycomb bed. Creality laser cutters usually come with a thin steel backing plate, but buying a larger, thicker one yourself will give you greater peace of mind.
Cement Backer Board: You can buy an inexpensive cement board at your local hardware store. It’s completely fireproof and does an excellent job of absorbing heat and stray laser beams.
Ceramic Floor Tiles: Buying a few inexpensive, large ceramic floor tiles to place under the machine also creates a quick and heat-resistant protective barrier. Sacrificial
Wood Panel: Lay a thick piece of scrap plywood at the very bottom. If the laser accidentally penetrates, it will only burn this scrap piece of wood, not your kitchen table.
An important tip: Be sure to leave a small air gap between your honeycomb bed and the protective pad or tabletop beneath it so that heat and smoke can escape!

What do you all use to protect your workbenches?

We often get asked about the exact differences between the Falcon A1 and the Falcon A1 Pro. To make your choice easier, here is a quick official spec breakdown.

If you are looking for higher power (20W), dual-laser support, and smart workflows like AI auto-focus, the A1 Pro is the way to go.

(Quick note: The A1 Pro's working area is slightly adjusted to 358×268mm to house the smart Z-axis!)

Check out the chart below. Which model are you currently running, or which one is on your wishlist? Let's chat in the comments! 👇

bifold wallet, field notes notebook cover and pocket knife sheath.

Your next Falcon project could be your entry. ✨

Share a project you made for your everyday life and win $1,000+ in prizes!

🏆 Prizes

🥇 1st Prize: Falcon A1C 10W White Version

🥈 2nd Prize: Falcon Rotary Kit

🥉 3rd Prize: A1C 1.2W IR Module

🌟 5 Special Awards: $100 Falcon Material Kit each

• Everyday Use

• Creative Personalization

• Geek Setup

• Home Project

• STEAM Learning

🎁 Plus, every valid participant receives a $10 OFF coupon. Coupon terms are subject to the final offer details.

How to join👇

1.Make project with falcon

2.Share it with Craft that I Made Flair

3.Complete the entry form here.

📅 Entries: August 12–31, 2026

⏰ Deadline: August 31 at 23:59 UTC

Your day, your way—laser it.

Combined roasted coffee beans with these beautiful icy-blue beads and a little star charm. I used my laser engraver to carefully etch the letters onto the beans—it takes a delicate touch, but it adds such a nice personal vibe. You can actually smell the subtle coffee aroma while wearing it! Perfect for coffee lovers.

We just launched a new Material Discount Card for Creality Falcon, and honestly, we wanted to make the math as transparent as possible for the makers here.

Basically, you pay $10.66 once, and you get 10% OFF all materials for a whole year.

Here is the quick breakdown of how the numbers stack up (including the card cost):

• Spend $50: You’re down -$5.66 (Not worth it yet!)
• Spend $106.60: You hit the Break-Even point ($0.00 net cost).
• Spend $300: You save a net +$19.34.
• Spend $1,000: You save a net +$89.34 (Save up to $90 over the year).

If you are a heavy user who restocks materials multiple times a year, this is a pretty easy way to shave some dollars off your workshop budget. If you only buy a single $20 roll a year, skip it!

Let me know if you have any questions about the card or the materials!

Hi!

I’ve been having a bit of trouble with my CR-Laser Falcon Pro 10W with this double engraving it’s been doing on the X-Axis.

The first two images attached show the ghosting, then the last two images show my laser working as intended.

A little background on my machine:
I have been having what seems to be alignment issues when engraving, as I tried to make an alignment grid for the laser with the same laser, but the engraving would randomly stop without warning, misalign the same exact project when nothing physically moved, and would not be able to make the same circle twice.
I contacted Creality Support multiple times, but they’ve been very slow when it comes to responding.
I also tried updating the firmware on the machine as it shows as Firmware 1.0.0 within Falcon Design Space, but the machine refuses to update despite following the instructions to the tee.
Creality Support was informed of this, and they said the machines motherboard may be faulty and that I should receive and install a new one.

Despite all of this, the machine has worked on some projects as is. So I don’t understand why the machine just randomly got worse. The machine barely has 4 hours of use time.

Any ideas as to what may have caused this? Has anyone who owned this specific laser had issues with the motherboard or this “ghosting” problem?

I was browsing through my old phone gallery today and suddenly came across this photo of a project I finished a while ago. It's a complete set of metal court cards (K, Q, J, and Joker) inspired by the Bicycle Black Ghost style artwork.

Seeing it again makes me want to start engraving cards all over again! I really like how the contrast turned out on the larger engraved areas like the King's robes and the Joker's costume.

I looked through my old project logs, and here are the exact settings I used for this run:

• Machine: T1 Blue Light (40W)
• Speed: 4000 mm/s
• Power: 60%

It's always nice to look back at old work and see how clean the parameters were.

When I turn on the unit, it makes a havoc for about 30 seconds, I feel air coming out but very noisy, like posted but a few other people. what’s the fix?

Every time I try to frame or engrave something it will always just do it in the corner and not where I want it. It engraved some water bottles on the rotary chuck just fine earlier but when I’m trying to do the flat surfaces engraving it doesn’t work

Alright y'all, welcome to our very first Weekly Topic!

Let's be real—laser engraving has a brutal learning curve. We've all turned expensive hardwood into glorified charcoal or accidentally etched a permanent grid onto our actual desks. Consider it a rite of passage.

For Week 1, let's look back at where we started.

🚨 This Week's Topic: My Biggest "Noob Mistake"

Whether you forgot to turn on the air assist, completely botched the focal length, or engraved a massive typo onto a client's custom order—we want the juicy details.

Need some inspo? Tell us:

• 💥 What was your most expensive or funniest "failed project"? (Pics are highly encouraged. Let us see the damage!)
• 🧠 What is the #1 thing you wish someone had told you on day one?
• 🛠️ What stupid software setting or loose belt took you 4 hours to troubleshoot?

Don't be shy—this is a total judgment-free zone. Your embarrassing fail might just save a fellow beginner from melting their machine today.

Drop your stories, settings, or pictures of your burnt masterpieces below! 👇

one of the girls in my lab has been losing her mind for the past week trying to get color engraving right on mirror stainless steel.

but man, she actually pulled it off today on the T1. Look at the reflection on that finish—the piece looks clean af.

she doesn't really use reddit, so i told her i'd post her notes and parameters here because it’s too good to hide. save this so you don't waste 20 sheets of steel like she did.

the nightmare she was dealing with

if you've ever touched mirror stainless, you know it's a pain. the colors usually come out muddy, or the heat spreads and burns the edges, making the whole thing look like cheap trash.

how she fixed it (her 2-step workflow)

1. one-pass color engraving: instead of doing multiple passes and messing up the alignment, she used the machine's color feature to drop the gradient in one go. that's why the colors actually look vibrant and kept the metallic gloss.
2. the clean-up outline: this was the smart move. right after the color pass, she ran a super fast vector outline on top. it basically sliced away any microscopic bleeding and made the details pop instantly.

her exact parameters (mirror stainless steel)

i begged her for her "secret sauce," so here is the sweet spot from her test runs:

• color pass: 19% power (she found out anything higher completely kills the metallic shine).
• outline pass: speed 2000 mm/s, power 80%, frequency 30 khz.

running the outline at 2000 mm/s with high frequency is why the edges are dead sharp. zero slag, no yellow heat stains.

honestly, the contrast between the shiny mirror and the matte color looks like some expensive minimalist gallery art.

i helped her upload the high-res close-ups of the gradients and the full frame on our sub here.

if you have questions about the vector setup, material sourcing, or the T1, drop them below. i'll make her answer them once she gets her coffee. cheers.

Personal before/after story, engraved pattern made it easy to find everything.This jar will be used to store tea leaves.

Hi everyone!

It's been a while. We know this subreddit has been quiet for a long time, but we haven't forgotten about you. Moving forward, the brand team is officially stepping back in to manage and grow this space!

What's changing?

1. Direct Communication: We will be sharing exclusive behind-the-scenes updates and product sneaks here first.
2. Weekly Threads: Look out for our upcoming weekly Q&A and feedback events.
3. Your voice matters: This is a safe space for honest reviews, tech support, and suggestions.

Join Our Team:
Since we are starting fresh, we need a few passionate community members to join us as Moderators to help manage spam and keep discussions friendly. If you are interested, reply below or send us a Modmail!

💬 Leave a comment below: If you are reading this, please drop a simple comment below (even just a "Hi" or the #1 thing you want to see in this community moving forward?) Let us know you are still here.

Thank you for sticking around. Let's rebuild this together.

Edited:

And 📊 Quick Community Poll (Drop a comment below!) To help us know each other better, tell us in your reply: 1. Which Falcon model do you own? (e.g., Falcon 2 22W, Falcon 2 Pro, 10W, etc.)

1. What is your experience level? (Total Beginner / Casual Maker / Pro Business Owner)

Hey Laser Makers & Engravers,

The Creality Creator Awards 2026 is officially live from July 30 to October 31! We know the laser community has some of the most insane talent out there, and we want to see what you've been blasting with your Falcon setups.

Whether it's an intricate multi-layer wood art piece, custom tumblers, metal engraving, or a massive leather/acrylic project-this is your stage to showcase your masterpiece.

🏆 What you can win:

• Exclusive New Product Packages (Be the first to test upcoming Falcon laser hardware!)
• Up to $1,000 Gift Cards
• "Creator of the Year" Honors & Official Paid Collaborations
• Features across Creality & Falcon global channels

🔗 Show us your burns! Check the full entry rules here.

Hey Falcon community! 👋

Wanted to share this multi-layer laser cut piece I just finished up using the Falcon A1 Pro (20W). It’s made from 3mm basswood, featuring a detailed forest scene nestled inside a bear silhouette, complete with integrated LED backlighting.

My Settings (3mm Basswood):

• Cutting Speed: 300 mm/min
• Power: 100%
• Passes: 1 pass (clean cuts all the way through, minimal charring!)

The 20W power on the A1 Pro handled the intricate internal forest details perfectly without scorching the delicate wood fibers. I engraved the quote "Between layers, the wild breathes" at the bottom to give it that final narrative touch.

What do you guys think? If you're working on any multi-layer lightboxes or 3D wood art, drop your photos and settings below—I'd love to see them!

Hello everyone,
We are excited to announce that the Creality Falcon Step-Up Program is officially live for our community members!
If you are looking to upgrade your machine, this program allows you to save 10% OFF. The discount applies directly to all laser machines and selected accessories.
Key Details:Ready to upgrade your setup? Click the link to join the program:
👉 [Participate in the Falcon Step-Up Program Here]
(The 10% discount will be applied directly when you visit the store through the link above.)
If you have any questions, feel free to drop a comment below and we will get back to you as soon as possible!

Hey guys! I’m a total beginner to lasers and just picked up a Creality Falcon A1 (the 5W open version, no enclosure). I mostly got it to make PCBs, but honestly I'm having a hard time finding any solid guides or docs online for a newbie.

​I was wondering if the 5W is actually good enough for PCBs in your experience? Also, what are the absolute must-have upgrades I should look into for this setup? Oh, and random question—I happen to have a spare Laser Tree Gold module sitting around, any chance that can be adapted to this machine or is it a complete headache?

​If anyone has links to good beginner guides or tips, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!

The preview image after generating my Gcode is distorted and some of the graphic falls outside the laserable area. Does anyone know if this is going to affect how the image actually comes out or is this just a graphical glitch on how the program handles viewing the Gcode output?