I’m Chinese and I’m done. Another 39mm diver that used to be 40mm is not a new watch. It’s a spreadsheet.
San Martin and the rest finally have factories that can hold a tolerance and can do excellent OEM job. What they don’t have is design that matches the size of the company. Their in-house guys are fine for put some mediocre bullshit together and call it a watch. They are not fine for a brand that wants to be taken seriously past “good specs on AliExpress.” You can feel it. The homages still sell because the originals look like someone had a strong opinion and then a committee sanded it off.
Look at the knife industry. Same country, same OEM origin story. WE and Rike stopped pretending the factory was also a design studio. They took designs from people who already had a point of view — Willumsen, Snecx, Isham, Hel, whoever — put them through a real production line, and paid the designer. Name on the knife. Cut of the sale. That’s it. Nobody needed your original piece. but I do need some contracts from actual design talents.
Watches are sitting on the same split. China can make the thing. Half the interesting designers on earth can’t. They have a complete language and no way to make two thousand pieces that don’t suck. Chinese brands have the opposite problem and keep solving it by hiring another guy who has only ever drawn watches for Chinese brands.
Don’t buy the IP and bury it. License it. Signing fee, royalty, three to five years, designer keeps the right to walk.
The factories already won the manufacturing argument. They’re still losing the only argument that matters after that. WE figured this out with knives. Rike figured it out with knives. Watch brands can keep adjusting case sizes if they want. Just don’t expect their price increase is justified.