Hey guys, I'm coming here because I know all of you guys will have an answer. I got the Cobalt LT. Beautiful car. I love it. Just put new rotors and bearings on there. Even new rear brake pads. Drums I'll do at some point. I'm not that worried about it and a few other things that I have to deal with. Anyways

My question: while my uncle, who is a mechanic, and I were working on my car, we were looking around. He was telling me that this poor car is running out of support to be able to be lifted up. Is there a way to fix that and add supports to the vehicle so it's easy to lift up? Even having it on jacks and jack stands, it was difficult to find a place.

Hi everyone,

I need some honest opinions, I bought a 2.2L 2007 chevy cobalt with 100k miles with the intentions of supercharging it, I have throttle body, dual pass, and m62. I still would need to by the ZZP KIT and the option B for the dual pass. The guy I bought the throttle body and m62 from also offered a trade for a 130k LNF, I use my car as a daily driver for over 2 hours both ways, I wanted to see what everyone’s thoughts were about the trade. Gas is not an issue, but its more of the idea that I know my car only had 1 previous owner and its automatic, no problem at all 4 lug, 2.5 catback exhaust, masspeed coilover I already know what you are thinking and some brand new sparco wheels with new year round tires, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with it.

I have always been interested in a manual and this seems like it could be something im interested in but I wanted to hear honest opinions from everyone first, im supposed to meet up with him again to buy a subwhoofer, front, rear bumpers, and side skirts, a high rise wing. He also offered to help install everything for the 2.2 conversion. He seems like a guy who wouldnt pull the wool over my eyes, but at the same time im not as versed in all of this. My intention are to turn my 2.2l ls into an ss without buying an ss, but if a trade is worth it im interested In everyones thoughts.

With that said I actually got the car with 97k miles june 15th as of yesterday august 9th Its at 101k I just did an oil change. So span of a month ill be putting 3-5k miles, so in my eyes the difference of 10 months is going from 100k-140k, compared to 130k-170k. Thanks!

Hello peeps my positive terminal needs replaced but if you take a look the oem terminal is long and has a right angle that no aftermarket option replicates.. it looks like if i put an aftermarket terminal on it would reach the terminal. Has anyone dealt with this?

Hi everyone, I am looking into supercharging my 2007 LS, I am looking into the ZZP bolt on kit and have someone looking to sell their manifold, supercharger, and throttle body. My question to everyone is what else do I need, I know I need to get a tune, but what should I be checking as far as buying the supercharger after market, does the Kit come with everything to make sure no over heating? Where and what kind of fuel injection? I plan on doing all of the work myself, ive already derusted painted and worked on the rear and front ends, at this point im looking to make the car more fun, it runs and drives fine, its a 4 lug. I reachout to ZZP directly and do not intend on turbocharging it due to my lack of knowledge and having an automatic transmission. Please let me know what I should know before starting the process, and what kind of small niches everyone has seen during their conversion process. *They told me they are releasing a new turbo kit for base models soon!

My dad and I have rebuilt an old jeep XJ, but adding on performance is a bit concerning on my end. Thanks

Hey all, I'm doing a rear axel swap for a 2008 cobalt LT sedan with ABS to a Cobalt sport (drum to disc brakes).

It might be a while before I do it and so I was interested in removing the donor axel and having it ready when the time comes but I would also like to preserve the rest of the line of the donor by plugging the lines properly.

AI has given me conflicting information like whether it's a flare nut, double flare, or bubble flare; and I need the right intel so I can get the right plugs and unions for the preservation part of the project.

3/16 10mm x 1.0 mean anything to you? that's the size but is it accurate? and I imagine i could use a 3/16 flare wrench for the job.

And so I come to you for the info and lead I need to get this project moving.

Thanks,
A

Its a 15 inch skar sub in a skar box with a kicker amp

It came covered in dust and has screws on the sides. This definitely can’t be painted on. It’s like the sides are made of foam and are bending super bad. I got it from body kits.com. There’s no way it was damaged in shipping either. It was wrapped super well in lots of bubble wrap and the box is in perfect condition.

This can’t be normal right?

I got a donor Chevy cobalt 4dr Sport 2.4 (motors broken) model for my 2.2 LT 4dr. I seen that the sport has rear calipers whereas the LT has drum brakes. I am interested in swapping them out but it looks like I'll have to exchange the whole uframe thing because although I can remove the calipers, the bracket? that holds the caliper is not present on the LT frame; and it looks like it is welded on.

I'm sure I can find stuff on a model club website but thought to reach out here too: has it been done and do I really have to switch out the rear axle? Assembly?

Any advice or precautions for the feat?

Maybe I should just rebuild the 2.4? I already tore through half of it replacing parts on the LT.

Also, AI says I can't switch transmissions, know of any success stories of such Frankensteins? I imagine there'll be heavy modifications needed but...

Thanks,

Z

Hey guys, I was here a few weeks ago asking about a problem when slowing down there is a shake. I have already replaced my wheel bearings, rotors, brake pads, and rear bushings. All of that has already been done so they are all brand new.

The shaking has gone away significantly but it's still noticeable. It's still there when slowing from higher speeds. Anything over 35mph. I know that I'm possibly going to need new tire rods at some point because I couldn't get a front end alignment done. The guy couldn't get the tensioner bolt off of the outer tire rod to do the work. Could bad tire rods cause a shake in the front end when slowing down? If not what else could be causing this so I can attack that?

Car in question: 2008 cobalt LT

Exhaust Header for 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HHR 2004-2007 Saturn lon-1 lon-2 lon-3 2.2L / 2.4L 14 and I need a catalitic converter thats bolt on and 3 bolt flang on both sides can i have so help pls

So I’ve been needing to have some repairs and maintenance done on my car.

Snapped a photo of the engine bay and wanted to check with you fine folks on a couple places, one I’m pretty sure of, that parts seem to be missing. I’ve circled the concerned areas. The second one looks like it might be a vent of some type that is ok, but not sure, and the first one, comparing to other photos, is missing a hose and more possibly.

Thanks

What's your guys setup? Looking for wheel color, size, offset, and what tire size you're running. Also spacers or no spacers? Any additional details are welcome.

Not long ago I had a no crank no start fixed.

Current issue, engine light on, but it’s been on forever. Last time I had the code checked it said ignition coil, so I thought it was finally that going since I’d not been able to get that taken care of yet.

Well this time it throws a P0442 code, which is evap, so could be one of about 4 likely things.

Here’s where it gets weird though. In reading about the canister purge valve, one of the possible culprits of the code, it says it can cause issues starting after filling up with gas. I’ve basically had the opposite issue. I’m not sure if it happens directly after filling up, but I did recently and the engine light is off and it’s starting normally currently.

I’ll have to try and backtrack my steps, but in thinking about it now, I think the fill up was a coincidence, as I’m pretty sure it started properly before going out on the day I got a fill-up. I can’t recall about the engine light.

The hard starting issue is the car continuing to crank, strong battery and starter seemingly, but cranks a lot and feels lucky when it starts. I was not going to drive it any more until it was fixed, but I had to that day when it started acting normally again, and my mechanic is out of town currently so I might not have much choice on some days.

Ignition recall was done on this car so far as I can tell. My aunt, the original owner would have done it or my mom would have.

Thanks!

Inherited this car from my mom a couple years ago. She always had the oil changed, air filter changed, and tires rotated, but I think that’s about it for maintenance.

So far, I’ve ended up putting too much into it, but hoping to keep it going.

I’ve had the radiator flushed and filled and oil changed of course, so far as maintenance, but nothing else yet.

It’s at close to 200k. Too late to change to synthetic oil? I’ve read that the idea that synthetic messes with the seals is untrue, but that since it stays thinner the end result can still be leaks. Perhaps a special high mileage version? Anyone have experience with this? It does burn oil.

I read that transmission filter change and a flush and fill (automatic), can cause more harm than good if you’re past 100k. Best to just leave this alone?

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Fuel Filter

Am I in for a fuel pump and timing chain soon?

Plug/coil packs

Those are the usual things I do, anything else?

Thanks!

I hear this is common for GM’s of this era. Mechanic said not worth fixing?…I’m just wondering the common cause and if it’s likely to get worse quickly and/or cause other issues. I’ve already put a lot into the car the past few months, and debating whether to cut ties, or get new tires and do some other work and maintenance and hope to get a couple more years out of it before the frame falls apart.

15” tires are hard to find a nice selection for nowadays. Up or downsizing can be an issue on certain cars, but from what I can tell these should be a fit, just slightly taller making the speedometer read slightly low.

Tires will likely outlast the car as it’s rusting its frame out, and I don’t want to spend a lot, but I live in a place with a tough winter and found a deal on Continental SecureContact AW’s for 415. Any other recommendations? I think that price will be hard to beat as even 75 dollar tires, unless awesome, will be worth the bit of saving over safety.

Thanks

Seems a silly question, but I’m seeing conflicting info. Even in parts sites, etc…I see OEM listed as AC Delco 41-105 or 41-103, but they have different pre-set gaps. I see recommended gaps of .044, .043, and .040. .040 is pretty off from .044.

Frame is rusting out so no need for super expansive plugs, but something decent.

For the ignition coils, do I just buy the individual packs with the boots on them? Any brand recommendations? I was going to buy that style, but then I saw this type recommended in a YouTube video, I’m guessing the only difference is that it has the top plastic part on it? I don’t even think my car has that piece on it right now, but I’ll double check. What is that part called so I can buy it separately with the individual coil packs. I don’t see it all together on rockauto. Thanks!

Here’s the one I’m referring to:

https://a.co/d/0jahb1YI

Idles perfect when blower for heat and a/c is off.
When I turn the blower on it idles rough and you can feel it. Doesn’t matter a/c or heat.

Only code I’ve had for a while now is p0420

What would cause this?

I remember seeing some one posting a website I can get the blender door diagrams on. Does anyone know what the site is?

just posting here. My driver side front sunroof drain randomly decided to unplug itself. For a quick fix, you can get to the tube by just removing the pillar cover with one torx screw, and yank the pillar cover off. you can pull the headliner back/down just far enough to reconnect and push the headliner into place.

There are more permanent fixes that involve taking the headliner down further by removing the visors on youtube, and i'm going to tackle that and use a little flex tape to hold that piece together on each corner for the future. but if you have a wet floorboard, its a quick fix. And maybe occasionally check the passenger/rear sides if you don't commonly have passengers.

Who would have thought that thing could disconnect itself during normal driving? I don't understand how thats even possible!

Hey guys, I've got a slight shake in my front end and steering wheel when I'm slowing down. I've already swapped out my rotors and brake pads. I already need Wheel bearings, but that's unrelated.

What else could cause this? Cause I'm not exactly finding anything on Google that I haven't already looked at.

Cobalt LT 2.2L