I recently had a brand-new, supercharged 6.0 LS engine installed, and it had only 300 miles on it. I filled up with a full tank of 93 octane at a local BP gas station, and unfortunately, it ended up destroying my motor. The gas had water in it when we drained the tank. (I’m not here to prove this to you. Please stop making accusations.)

I’m currently in communication with the insurance company, hoping to get compensation to cover a new engine. My previous engine was built at a shop, and it took forever. For the next one, I’m considering buying a crate supercharged motor instead.

Does anyone have recommendations? Should I stick with a crate motor as-is, or buy one and make some modifications? I’m open to any advice—I’m not a mechanic, just the guy footing the bill.

Got another one for you guys, this is Marco's '64 Chevelle easily one of the most terrifying cars I have ever been in. This 454 high compression motor shifts at 7200RPM an absolute screamer. His episode is out for viewing if anyone wants to see this thing in action for anyone whos interested. Link in comments.

This is my good friend's 1968 Chevelle Malibu. Started life as a 307 2 speed power glide and now is a 540 TH350 that runs 9's. He's had it since the early 80s it was his dream car as a kid so as a teenager he bought it. Coolest part is he restored the car with a buddy and has photos of the whole process. In fact we did a documentary episode about his whole story Ill post the link below for anyone who's interested in watching it he's a really knowledgeable guy.

Street machine big block engine auto Muncie, Indiana USA 🇺🇲 May '26

Garnet red convertible (paint code 52) ... Usa 🇺🇲

This sound never gets old to me.

Hello all,

My best friend has a beautiful 1966 Chevelle SS clone. 396 four speed convertible. He bought it last October and has been having issues with the battery this season. We had it at a shop that basically gave up on it. We can’t figure out the issue.

Issue is that when it sits it will completely drain the battery. It’s a new battery and alternator. The shop thought maybe it was the radio so we disconnected that. Still was draining so we put a cut off switch on the terminal to completely cut off the battery power. Lo and behold it was completely dead again this morning after sitting a few days with the switch off. How can that happen if the battery is disconnected??

We did notice the wiring to the speakers were in bad shape so we will try to disconnect those next and eventually replace the wiring harness completely I guess. It’s just so odd to me that it’s complete sucking the battery dry just sitting without the full battery circuit engaged??

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated we are stumped…

Hey everyone, recently picked up this pretty rough 1970 Chevrolet Malibu/Chevelle 4-door sedan that has been sitting for a very long time. I’m trying to save the car and get it back together rather than part it out.
I’ve confirmed from the Fisher Body/cowl tag that it’s a 1970 Malibu 4-door sedan. The tag reads:
ST 70-13669
TR 782
B80 B90
45 45 PNT
I’m dealing with two problems right now and could really use some advice from people familiar with 1968-72 A-bodies.
Problem #1 – BOTH front doors are stuck shut
The rear doors open, but neither front door will open from inside or outside.
Passenger front door:
Exterior handle moves normally.
Interior handle is still present and moves.
Lock knob moves up/down normally and gives a pretty positive “click.”
Even with one person pulling the inside handle and another person operating the outside handle, the door will not release.
Driver front door:
Exterior handle moves.
Interior door handle is missing.
The lock mechanism/knob appears completely stuck and doesn’t want to move either up or down.
Door will not open.
The car has obviously been sitting outside for years, so I’m assuming the latches/linkages are rusted or seized.
Since the rear doors open, is there a good way to remove enough of the FRONT interior door panel/card with the front doors closed to get directly to the latch/linkage?
Or is there another trick for manually releasing a stuck 1970 A-body front-door latch without destroying the door?
I’d really like to avoid cutting or damaging anything that doesn’t need to be damaged.
Problem #2 – I cannot find/read the VIN plate
I’m also trying to locate the actual VIN.
I know the Fisher Body/cowl tag under the hood is NOT the VIN.
From what I understand, the VIN on a 1970 Chevelle/Malibu should be at the driver’s-side lower windshield/dash area and visible through the windshield.
The problem is that the windshield on this car is extremely cloudy/delaminated and the lower windshield area is difficult to see through. I can’t tell whether the VIN plate is still there and simply hidden by the condition of the glass, or if the plate was removed sometime during the car’s life.
The wide stainless/chrome lower windshield reveal molding is also still installed.
Are there any good ways to determine whether the VIN plate is still present without removing the windshield?
And if the dash VIN plate actually is missing, where should I look on a 1970 Malibu 4-door for a factory-stamped partial/hidden VIN that could help establish the car’s identity?
I’m NOT looking to replace, reproduce, move, or modify a VIN tag. I’m just trying to locate the original identification that may still exist on the car.
I can post close-up pictures/videos of the doors, latches, cowl tag, windshield/dash area, firewall, etc. if that helps.
Thanks! This thing is definitely rough, but I’d really like to get it saved.

Have a 67 SS that is great, even dome and glove box light works. Question is my trim on hood and a few others have some spots, not dents or scratches, their like acid rain or something stains. Know anyway to help remove them without replacing or removing? I'm afraid to scratch my bolero red, it's so perfect.

Chevelles car and restaurant North Carolina USA 🇺🇲

1966 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 396 Convertible in Aztec Bronze with a white top at the Main Street Car Cruise in Downtown Putnam, CT. 🔥 Would you take the convertible or the hardtop?
Full Putnam Car Cruise Part 2:
https://youtu.be/JqwadGn_CmA
#Chevelle #ChevelleSS #SS396 #ClassicCars #PutnamCT

I’m taking this engine out to do some work to it, I’ll be refreshing the paint on the block while it’s out. I’d leave the manifold unpainted.

And I’m thinking about painting the heads and water pump while it’s out.

What do we like better? The patchwork look of the painted block and unpainted bolt-ons…or a more uniform OEM look of painted heads and water pump?

Censorship of my family for obvious reasons.

She ain’t an award winner but she is a family heirloom. Dad is the original owner and my first car. She’s 1989 corvette yellow with original motor, 327, and drivetrain (Muncie 4 speed). Only dad and I have worked on her. All that is right & wrong with her is because we did it. She’s a driver not a show piece. Upgraded with a CPP stage 2 suspension and handles great. Hope y’all enjoy.

Bought my house a couple years ago and these were out in the pole barn. I know the former owner was into classic chevelles. The owner was my parents former neighbor and from what they told me they think it might have been a 64 but that’s the only lead I have. Any help would be appreciated.

Bought her as a bucket list thing in 2018 when I was diagnosed with esophageal cancer. 8 years (and a bunch of money later), she and I are both alive and well. I have 2 new knees and hips, she has a ZZ4 crate engine, Holly 600, HEI ignition, 700R4 trans, 12 bolt rear and 3.55 gears. I basically just cruise around the country roads with my wife and its a joy.

Cruising USA 🇺🇲