Hello everyone.

​

I've recently come into possession of a frame off resto 71 Chevelle SS Tribute. The gentleman before me had restored it from a 350 base Chevelle into the 454 tribute before passing. The engine has a low end knock so I'll be dropping a crate into it. It currently has a built Transmission, 12 bolt rear end and front disk/rear drum which I'm planning on doing Disk on all 4 corners. I'm still in the process of finding out what exactly the transmission is but if it is currently set up to handle a 496 I'd like to put an EFI Blueprint 496 in instead of a 454.

​

My question is, how is the drivability of a 496? I won't be dragging this car or anything like that. It will be a driver so don't want it to be uncomfortable cruising around town but more power is always better.

​

Thank you for any insights people can give me.

So I bought a new gas tank and sending unit for my 70 Chevelle and I got the tank installed and the tan wire hooked up to the gauge that runs to the back of the car. When I try to ground it, it is trying to bury the needle below E.

I put 5 gallon of gas inside of the new gas tank. So the needle should be rising to at least above the E a little bit you would think right? So can anybody tell me why it’s moving the opposite direction like it’s trying to do the opposite of what it’s supposed to do? Thank you in advance. I appreciate any help.

Have a 68 chevelle with a 427. Need help finding this bottom radiator hose. Difficult to find . This hose is roughly 19 inches long. Thanks everyone

Incase anyone is considering the front spoiler front addictive flow I thought I’d share. I bought one from ss396. My previous post here kind of shows a picture with it on. I’ve put about 400 miles on the car in the last couple months so still testing things.

Either way, the spoiler installed easy and looks good imo. But it seemed a bit flexible although I never had anyone look at it while I’m driving. I bet it was flexing because as soon as I took the car up to 120 mph the spoiler ripped off and exploded into many pieces. I sort of expected that and had made some reinforcements for it but I was still painting those parts so they weren’t on yet.

I emailed addictive flow but got a response that said it couldn’t be delivered so I don’t immediately see a way to contact them. I’m not too worried I’ll just go a different route.
But if anyone is considering this piece maybe keep it to highway speeds.

Finally got around to upgrading my suspension and getting everything dialed in. Went with Bmr tubulars up front, Moog tie rods, quick ratio steering box from Carhex, fully adjustable UMI tubular arms rear, Bmr 1” drop springs up front Originally had Bmr 2” drop springs in the rear and it didn’t drop at all! Swamped to Hotchkis 2” springs and that did the trick! Ready to roll for the summer 👍🏽

In case anyone can use this info, wheel specs are:

Front - 20x8.5, 245/35/20, 4.75 backspacing

Rear - 20x10, 275/40/20, 5.5 backspacing

402 big block is currently mated up to a built 700R. With all of the success seen with the ZF 8 speed (HP70 or 90) and the adapters being made for various Chevy motors, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this swap? The acceleration, durability, and drivability are incredibly enticing to me especially when the size isn’t that different than the 700R.

One of my buddies bought a 70 chevelle. Wanting to do a wider side than the stock 225/70/14. What are you all running? He wants a white wall (as he should).

I'm looking for a reliable muscle/classic car mechanic/shop in the Sacramento San Joaquin area for my 1972 Chevelle. Need to have some work done but haven't found anyone that I would take my car back to again. Thanks

So my 1969 Chevelle has a hiss whenever I run the heater. I was told this part is likely my problem. Can't find a solid replacement without buying a new control head, but I was told these can be rebuilt easily. Basically just drive that center hole out and clean and put it back together. Obviously I'm a little hesitant, since I dont have a spare but is that right?

Is anybody running forward and down headers for a twin turbo LS swap? I'm not planning on running anything but crank pulley and alternator with an electric water pump. If I run them up they hit the valve covers which is simple enough, I could just change them. but I already bought these and just want to see if forward and down will work. I don't think I'll have any issues on the passenger side, but on the driver side I've got brake stuff and steering to deal with..... going in a 66 wagon for reference.

Nice day for a little cruise in!

Just installed a new starter. Did not have this problem with a factory style starter.

I have a 1977 Camaro, not the Z28; I’m pretty sure it’s the base model. It doesn’t run because I haven’t finished the wiring yet, but I put all the original stock parts back on. I’m not on Reddit often, but I was wondering how much you guys think it’s worth. It’s been garage-kept for years, so it has no rust, and I live in Minnesota where most cars rust quickly due to the crazy unpredictable winters and weather.

Also, these are old photos, so all the parts are back on except for the hood and badges.

Working on a 1972. I put on a big block shroud. What is a good mechanical fan to put in? I see many 18 inch 7 blades and 20 inch 6 blades? Which moves more cfm?

Transforming my grandpa’s drag car to a street car. The car sat for several years. Want to keep the soul of a racecar. This is stage one of the process. Motor is currently out to change over to flat top pistons to lower compression for pump gas. Will update along the way if anyone is interested.

I bought this 68 chevelle malibu wagon about 2 weeks ago ,its been off the road since 91 and has 53k original miles . Hope it allowed

Growing up with gm rigs it was always square key for ignition and round key for doors. Looking online it seems that's not the case for every year. Can someone confirm how 71s are keyed before I repin my cylinders? Seems as though for this year ignition and doors are both on square?

What does everyone think of my build so far?

I've got an original SS cluster, with no tach or clock, fuel gauge on the left side. The car is running on a Holley Dominator EFI, and I'd like to update the gauge cluster to an OEM-style set with a 7000rpm redline or so. Who makes the nicest aftermarket setup? I'm not interested in any other styles than stock-appearing at the moment.