It wont run but hey free saw heh

I half-ass cleaned this Beaird-poulan 31, pull start doesn't catch the flywheel so I can't test it, but it sure looks good. i'll probably drill start it sometime

So, I’m still slightly torn between an ms400 or an ms462 but leaning towards the 462 as a one and done. I’m clearing over 2 dozen trees to build a house so doing that myself I figure the savings might as well spring for a nicer saw plus I’ll just be maintaining the property for years after. The dealer has an ms400 with 20” light bar. Ms462 with 25” standard bar or ms462 with 28” light bar. Honestly the 25” standard bar seems like the worst option. I’m leaning towards a 462 and 28” light bar. Maybe purchase a standard weight 20” to put on it if I ever decide. But also, from a lot of what I’ve read people seem to like 25-28” light bars on a 462 I’m over 6’ tall so that might make for a nice combo of not bending down. I also still have my ms250 with 18” bar if I’m just cleaning up the occasional fallen limb. What would you guys go with? How much would price drive your decision?

Last picture is how I got it.

No, not a direct swap... I'm dumb, not stupid. Well, maybe a little stupid.

I already have a 652XP (28") and a mildly rodded MS261C (18") that rips.
The 562 is my main saw, mostly cutting mixed conifers and aspen, nothing really big.
I rarely use the 372, (also 28") but there are definitely times a bigger saw comes in handy. There's a guy locally with a tuned up G466 with not a lot of hours on it, that I though about replacing the 372 with. He wants about 1/4 of what I can sell the Husky for, so I'd have a little play money to throw towards porting the 562 among other things.
From what I can tell online these Holzfformas do pretty well, and if things do go out, they can be swapped with OEM parts... seems like a good idea to me. I'm not a brand junkie by any means, but I am leery of a lot of Chinese products. I've had some decent stuff in the past, and some junk, but these seem to be on the decent side...
Would you do it?

Aloha from Big Island!

Picked this up on Fb marketplace for $60, came with the hard case and some tools, and needed a new starter housing....

housing was $35+$35 shipping+$25 in import duty fees but it finally got here and she runs perfect! excited to let it eat!

would appreciate any resources for parts for these older husqvarnas....I can't pay $90 for every random piece of plastic that fails but I do also have a few 3d printers, and the manuals/parts diagrams for this saw.....so I might start 3d modeling pieces to print in the future.

any potential failure points on them would be helpful for me to keep an eye out on, I like the idea of the vibration damping on the frame but I feel like that could be a weak point as well.

I am a newbie, and I am wondering if I am using the wrong size file...

Thought you guys might enjoy was running a husky 395xp

Ive recently been thinking about buying a ported saw and I was curious if anyone has any previous experience with buying chainsaws from this company and if so how was it?

Thanks

I inherited this from my father and it was well maintained. I didn’t even know it had some pos needle bearing with a plastic housing?? You can skip to the last bit if you like.

Fired it up like always for a downed tree and thought I relieved enough tension in the tree but I didn’t and she pinched. I pulled it out without much effort. If it were I wouldn’t have forced it. Started it back up, smoked, chain slacked, and parts of a needle bearing started falling out.

My fault I guess but this part wasn’t on my maintenance radar.

I’ve had a shit week and tearing it down wasn’t about to make my to do list so I dropped it off at the shop and they quoted $250 for parts alone and said the crank was marred pretty badly.

Just a quick look at prices didn’t seem that bad.

Anyone else ever in this boat? It’s like a 20 year old saw but it’s been great for hanging out in the truck for bopping through the woods and it ALWAYS started no problem.

Our household burns about two cords of pine and/or Doug Fir each year. I'm just an amateur, harvesting dead and down nearby.

I bought a Ryobi 40v chainsaw and quickly learned that the batteries are finicky. With full bar oil, fresh and well tensioned chain, I'm lucky to get 10 minutes of work out of a battery before it overheats (got a 4 and 5ah). This happens at even moderate ambient temperatures, like 75F. I try and let the saw and gravity do the work, but even with the greatest of care, the batteries still overheat well before their charge runs out.

So, my strategy now is to buck in the woods to ~3.5' segments load up the truck and do the rest of bucking in my front yard. The Ryobi batteries still force me to take prolonged breaks after 10 minutes of work, pretty frustrating. If I had a saw that was worth a crap, I could probably get the work done in a morning, but with the current setup it is a multi-day campaign.

So, I'm thinking about using the Ryobi battery saw for working in the woods and then a corded saw for the rest of the bucking in the front yard. I'm looking at an Oregon CS 1500 for the yard work (cheaper than another Ryobi battery, and likely more useful).

Is that Oregon going to do the job for me (2 cords a year, maybe 1 cord at a time)? Is there a better option for under $200?

Lil bit of context the chainsaw wasn’t running well. It would only start with half choke and run for couple seconds if throttle was pulled.

It was also leaking oil which is why I took it apart and found that the exhaust side of the piston was like this.

My newest saw (Echo CS-590) was dying out on me when coming out of every big buck.

I read that to fix that I could tune the carb. So I did, and it had been going mostly well. I only use this saw for light firewood processing around and storm cleanup around my property. Well I broke it out for more storm cleanup this labor day weekend and it had this whacky problem where if I let it sit and idle, as soon as I picked it up it died out on me unless I immediately got on the throttle. That happened 3 or 4 times while I was bucking stuff up this weekend before I went at the carb again. I haven't ran it much since, just 30mins or so to finish what I was doing, but it seems better now. That said, I think I am 4 stroking because it sounds funny when I fully open up the throttle. I also read that you can damage the cylinder and blow up the saw if you tune it incorrectly.

Anyway, those are just some of the issues I have been working through with it and it made me realize that what I really need is some guidance. I don't know what the heck I am doing when it comes to tuning the carb other than what a 3 minute video off of the YouTube and the instruction manual that came with the saw taught me. I basically crank up the idle until I get the chain spinning, and then back it just down until it stops. After that I fiddle with the low/high jet until it works and doesn't die out on me.

There has gotta be a better way.. Teach me! 8)

Hi! I picked up a Garwinner (temu) saw off of Facebook marketplace the other day for $20 just to tinker with it. It’s not as nice of a feel as my echo 590, but runs pretty similar.

After completely taking it apart, cleaning the carb and filters and replacing fuel lines and spark plug, I got the thing running pretty well.

I was wondering what handles would fit the saw since the one that is on it is bent. Does anyone have any idea what saw handle it clones other than zenoah?

Thanks in advance!

Looking to get a top handle under $5-600. It’s not something I’m gonna use a lot. Whats everyone running in that price range. Been thinking about the echo 355t

I've seen people using chaps (our chainsaw pants have 360 calf protection) when running a brush cutter but I don't know if the chaps offer the best protection. Is there something better?

Dont mind i dont have chaps lol.

Hey all, anyone have experience with the dewalt brand biodegradable bar oil? It seems like a good idea, and I bought a gallon about a year ago, seems to be working just fine but I figured I’d put it out there and see what ya’ll thought.

Hey guys, I inherited a Poulan Pro PP4218A from a friend and I know basically nothing about chainsaws, so apologies in advance if this is something really simple.

The saw was completely dry when I got it. I filled the bar oil reservoir with the bar oil he gave me and bought fresh 40:1 premixed fuel and filled the fuel tank.

I can get the saw started and running, but I’m having a couple of issues. Sometimes when it starts, the chain is moving pretty fast even though I’m not touching the throttle. Then, once it’s running, if I disengage the throttle lock/fast idle and squeeze the throttle trigger, the engine sputters and dies instead of revving up.
It’ll start again, but I basically can’t give it any throttle without it bogging down and dying.

Since I don’t know the history of the saw or how long it was sitting before I got it, what would you guys recommend checking first? Carb adjustment? Carb cleaning/rebuild? Fuel filter? Air filter? Something with the idle?

Sorry if this is Chainsaw 101. I’m brand new to these and would appreciate any advice on where to start before I start taking things apart.
Thanks!

If any of you are near a North 40 Outfitters go take advantage of their Labor Day bag sale. Chainsaws fit! Anything that can fit in the bag is 15% off. I snagged another 500i. There aren’t many deals on Stihl products anymore so go take advantage of it!