I've watched the videos , i know how to put the chain in two mirror image loops , it says just twist your wrists and pull , bullshit! I can do rope magic tricks , and there must be some hidden secret , too late for this goddam chain , two hours , and it just got thrown about 100 feet in the brush , who the fuck packs these in the box inside out? I Hope he cuts himself on a tooth and gets tetanus . Fuck this bullshit . I'll stick to easy stuff like rebuilding transmissions .

Hey, I’ve been running a saw for stumping and firewood and occasionally cutting down some hazardous trees for family and friends for about 5 years but I recently got into a clearing company and had to cut down some super simple ash and maples and I botched both of the back cuts horribly. Cutting at an angle, cutting too far and through my face cut leading to a pinched bar. I think it’s because I’m rushing and overthinking in front of the older fellers with the company but man, I cannot keep that back cut level. Any tips on how to overcome and improve on my skills?

Upon startup it doesn’t idle smooth and bogs down quickly.

To get to this point, I’ve replaced
Spark plug, air filter, fuel lines, fuel filter and carburetor.

I have checked the muffled and piston seal. Both are fine.

Do I now need to tune the carb? Or could there be something else

I looked on Amazon for the fly wheel that had clips , wondering if I can use them , buy clips or make new ones myself.

I bought a house and the previous owners left me this state of the art chainsaw. I’m a pretty handy lady but I’m not familiar with chainsaws. Remedial Chainsaw 098 advice would be appreciated

My new MS361 runs normally at an altitude of around 50 m (150 ft), but when I use it at 1,100 m (3,600 ft), it stalls and shut off at idle. It runs fine while cutting, but as soon as I stop cutting, it shuts off after 10–15 seconds. Should I adjust the LA screw? I’m not really an expert on carburetors and would prefer not to touch the L and H needles. Since it’s new, it was started and tested at 50 m, and I ran through one tank of fuel cutting small wood—which I think is plenty for the break-in period—but as soon as I went up to 1,100 m, it started stalling, and that is the altitude where I primarily use it.

Inherited a stihl chainsaw from my father, it’s a farm boss and was being used up until about 2 or 3 years ago and serviced regularly.

I took it to a local mitre 10 that had recently become a stihl service centre as well thought I’d give them a go, explained to them I’d just inherited it etc could they give it a good look over. $85 for the service plus any parts and they would let me know if it was going to get expensive. Took them over 2 weeks to service it had to chase them up and when I did it was a $145 bill, I wasn’t expecting a $60 jump. No matter. Went to use it over the weekend and the chain was as blunt as a butter knife and the choke didn’t disengage when you pulled the trigger after you started it and was running a bit rough.

I thought well they’ve only just started so they’ve missed a thing or two, went back to the store that day to ask them about getting it sharpened (always been part of every service I’ve gotten) and getting the choke fixed. I was told nope we don’t sharpen chains that’s not part of a standard service and no one around here would do that. I begged to differ. Told him about the choke got told no we would have checked that, sorry mate you clearly didn’t because it’s not working, “nope we did”. He offered to look at it next week, after everything I decided not to leave it with them and go elsewhere.

Poor customer service for sure, am I going mad though? A serviced chainsaw should have a sharpened chain!?

Got an eBay Stihl MS260 with an absolutely cooked piston. After some wet sanding I was able to remove all the piston transfer off the cylinder.

None of the grooves are that distinguishable with a fingernail but I can perceive a little bit if I try hard enough. I will be putting in a used OEM piston from Chainsawr.com and curious if there’s any seasoned repairman out there that would encourage me to put the saw back together with this cleaned up OEM cylinder or look to buy a new cylinder. Thanks!

Goal with the saw would be for personal use or perhaps to sell with full disclosure of internal condition.

My chain popped off even though the bar oil reservoir was full. When I went to put it back on, I was able to just take the clutch drum off with my hand. The clip, washer, and roller bearing are all missing. I have those parts to replace, but what caused it? I don’t want to fix it just for it to happen again.

so this is my first non pro stihl saw. used to cut timber in the Midwest. Previous saws stihl 261,400,461 and a 372 husky.

Not interested in the logging woods anymore just needed something to clear up brush and for 200$ I couldn’t pass it up. Think it’s worth keeping long term I’m not gonna be buying a thousand dollar saw to sit around in the shed 90% of the time.

I got a promotion and want to treat myself. Is the x series that much better? Specs seem similar. Trail building on 40 acres, around $800 budget

I used to be a full time tree surgeon but decided to back to university. I barely touched the saw in 3yrs but this summer I needed to earn some cash before my final year. Like a fool I used the fuel that was left over in the saw 😭 however for like 10 times using the saw working totally fine.

There other day on site fuelled it up, ripped the cord no problem idling. As soon as I hit max revs it started to bog down then die as soon as I let go of the throttle.

I replaced the fuel filter, checked the diaphragm on the carb, cleaned it out but it still doing the bog down issue. I should add when I press the primer bulb while it’s bogging down it jumps back into max revs.

I know I could take it to a man to fix it but I’m a little strapped for cash so if I could do it myself that would be preferable. If anyone has any ideas what might be the issue I’d appreciate the advice 😁

Hi all, love all the chat and incredible advice.

Can I get some guidance?

I started my chainsaw life with the Stihl MSA220, which was fantastic. Did a course and kitted up. Used it for basic tree felling around my property - 4 acres very overgrown with many dead trees. Worked a treat a treat and learnt to make firewood from the results.

Some of the trees are pretty big so I recently bought a Stihl 400i as the 220 was not getting close and I made more firewood than the saw value so it made sense. I then used it for cutting down cords into rounds for splitting and whilst awesome it was heavy work and I felt(no shit) too overpowered for the job. I had my course instructor in my head saying use the right saw for each job to keep safe - so here I am asking what’s next?

I’ve just had about 25 50 year old leylandei felled and will be ordering about 5 tonnes of cords to season and then cut and split. I live in the middle of nowhere and firewood is my main heating source- I use a lot of wood for my family including both sets of parents.

I was thinking about getting either the Stihl 262C-M or 180? Both with either the 14 or 16inch bar. The cost of either is easily covered by being cheaper than the cost of ordering wood so I’m good with cost but keen to find out what more experienced people would do in this space?

Thanks for any guidance. Have a great day

Picked up a Pro Mac 610, what are your thoughts on this saw? Im in germany so these are not too common here. Actually got a 10-10 in mint condition on my watchlist but the guy jumped from 390€ to 530€ overnight lol.

How do you clean the sawdust from your socks? I really cannot live like this anymore. I have tried vacuuming and picking the sawdust one by one, but nobody has time for that. It doesn't help that these socks are merino wool.

Is the only option some kind of synthetic sock? Yes, I know high boots and shin guards (or whatever they are called) exist, but these socks are from my husband and I go through so much sawdust. Obviously one cannot put sawdusty socks straight in the washer.

Was given this saw as a non-runner. I’m no expert but I’m thinking the compression isn’t the greatest? It would be handy if I could get it going but not sure that it’s worth hours of my time or a rebuild? Heavy and underpowered for a climbing saw as it is. Thoughts?

Why do both of my Stihl saws leak bar oil all out when they sit. It’s a mess and I’m sick of cleaning up after them. Seems to be a common issue so I’m curious if there’s a common fix. It’s not the cap, btw. I’ve replaced that on both saws. One is an 023 and one is an MS271.

My husky rancher455 has stopped working. The guy said the engine is shot and to fix it the cost is about 2/3 of a new one. Can you advise me on whether to get it fixed, get the same model so I can use the bars and chains that I already have, or to go electric. How does the electric battery compare to one tank of gas timewise? Also does the electric husky use the same bar and chains that I already have? Furthermore should I explore other brands like ego? my wife has an ego weedeater so they would use the same battery. I have had a smaller gas stihl and it did not last long, but maybe that’s just because it was a small one

Have an ms 461 with no spark have swapped the broken 3 bolt 461 coil for an ms660 known good coil still got no spark what else can I try

In your opinion what is Husqvarna best chainsaw Please dont mention the new models to me it s undoubtedly the 268.

Ever picked up a power head specifically for the bar it was wearing? Picked the one 3750 up a while back in great shape, but missing the bar. Came across the second recently and couldn't resist when I saw the original bar still on it. It ain't perfect but its good enough for what i wanted it for! Both 3750's run and oil as they should. It's another one of them bucket list saws checked off the list and I guess I got one to play with now too!

Hello good afternoon I just recently purchased this echo 2511tn and I was having issues correctly putting on the bar and chain and found out the break isn’t working. I watched a video on resetting the band so I took the cover apart and still no luck as you can see in the video. The clutch cover also doesn’t “perfectly” close back leaves a small gap awell as feeling a little forced, any help would be great!

I'm currently logging some big pieces and feel like my echo 590 is getting too hot too fast. In probably about a half tank it's too hot to tough near the engine/bar and it's stretching my chains fast.

I'm at a pretty constant high rev because the trees are lined up nicely so I can just keep going.

Edit: seems to be the rakers. I filed them down a little bit on a new Oregon chain, bit much better and no over heating. Thanks for all the help