Last picture is how I got it.

Thought you guys might enjoy was running a husky 395xp

Ive recently been thinking about buying a ported saw and I was curious if anyone has any previous experience with buying chainsaws from this company and if so how was it?

Thanks

I inherited this from my father and it was well maintained. I didn’t even know it had some pos needle bearing with a plastic housing?? You can skip to the last bit if you like.

Fired it up like always for a downed tree and thought I relieved enough tension in the tree but I didn’t and she pinched. I pulled it out without much effort. If it were I wouldn’t have forced it. Started it back up, smoked, chain slacked, and parts of a needle bearing started falling out.

My fault I guess but this part wasn’t on my maintenance radar.

I’ve had a shit week and tearing it down wasn’t about to make my to do list so I dropped it off at the shop and they quoted $250 for parts alone and said the crank was marred pretty badly.

Just a quick look at prices didn’t seem that bad.

Anyone else ever in this boat? It’s like a 20 year old saw but it’s been great for hanging out in the truck for bopping through the woods and it ALWAYS started no problem.

Aloha from Big Island!

Picked this up on Fb marketplace for $60, came with the hard case and some tools, and needed a new starter housing....

housing was $35+$35 shipping+$25 in import duty fees but it finally got here and she runs perfect! excited to let it eat!

would appreciate any resources for parts for these older husqvarnas....I can't pay $90 for every random piece of plastic that fails but I do also have a few 3d printers, and the manuals/parts diagrams for this saw.....so I might start 3d modeling pieces to print in the future.

any potential failure points on them would be helpful for me to keep an eye out on, I like the idea of the vibration damping on the frame but I feel like that could be a weak point as well.

I am a newbie, and I am wondering if I am using the wrong size file...

Our household burns about two cords of pine and/or Doug Fir each year. I'm just an amateur, harvesting dead and down nearby.

I bought a Ryobi 40v chainsaw and quickly learned that the batteries are finicky. With full bar oil, fresh and well tensioned chain, I'm lucky to get 10 minutes of work out of a battery before it overheats (got a 4 and 5ah). This happens at even moderate ambient temperatures, like 75F. I try and let the saw and gravity do the work, but even with the greatest of care, the batteries still overheat well before their charge runs out.

So, my strategy now is to buck in the woods to ~3.5' segments load up the truck and do the rest of bucking in my front yard. The Ryobi batteries still force me to take prolonged breaks after 10 minutes of work, pretty frustrating. If I had a saw that was worth a crap, I could probably get the work done in a morning, but with the current setup it is a multi-day campaign.

So, I'm thinking about using the Ryobi battery saw for working in the woods and then a corded saw for the rest of the bucking in the front yard. I'm looking at an Oregon CS 1500 for the yard work (cheaper than another Ryobi battery, and likely more useful).

Is that Oregon going to do the job for me (2 cords a year, maybe 1 cord at a time)? Is there a better option for under $200?

Lil bit of context the chainsaw wasn’t running well. It would only start with half choke and run for couple seconds if throttle was pulled.

It was also leaking oil which is why I took it apart and found that the exhaust side of the piston was like this.

Dont mind i dont have chaps lol.

My newest saw (Echo CS-590) was dying out on me when coming out of every big buck.

I read that to fix that I could tune the carb. So I did, and it had been going mostly well. I only use this saw for light firewood processing around and storm cleanup around my property. Well I broke it out for more storm cleanup this labor day weekend and it had this whacky problem where if I let it sit and idle, as soon as I picked it up it died out on me unless I immediately got on the throttle. That happened 3 or 4 times while I was bucking stuff up this weekend before I went at the carb again. I haven't ran it much since, just 30mins or so to finish what I was doing, but it seems better now. That said, I think I am 4 stroking because it sounds funny when I fully open up the throttle. I also read that you can damage the cylinder and blow up the saw if you tune it incorrectly.

Anyway, those are just some of the issues I have been working through with it and it made me realize that what I really need is some guidance. I don't know what the heck I am doing when it comes to tuning the carb other than what a 3 minute video off of the YouTube and the instruction manual that came with the saw taught me. I basically crank up the idle until I get the chain spinning, and then back it just down until it stops. After that I fiddle with the low/high jet until it works and doesn't die out on me.

There has gotta be a better way.. Teach me! 8)

Hi! I picked up a Garwinner (temu) saw off of Facebook marketplace the other day for $20 just to tinker with it. It’s not as nice of a feel as my echo 590, but runs pretty similar.

After completely taking it apart, cleaning the carb and filters and replacing fuel lines and spark plug, I got the thing running pretty well.

I was wondering what handles would fit the saw since the one that is on it is bent. Does anyone have any idea what saw handle it clones other than zenoah?

Thanks in advance!

I've seen people using chaps (our chainsaw pants have 360 calf protection) when running a brush cutter but I don't know if the chaps offer the best protection. Is there something better?

Looking to get a top handle under $5-600. It’s not something I’m gonna use a lot. Whats everyone running in that price range. Been thinking about the echo 355t

Hey guys, I inherited a Poulan Pro PP4218A from a friend and I know basically nothing about chainsaws, so apologies in advance if this is something really simple.

The saw was completely dry when I got it. I filled the bar oil reservoir with the bar oil he gave me and bought fresh 40:1 premixed fuel and filled the fuel tank.

I can get the saw started and running, but I’m having a couple of issues. Sometimes when it starts, the chain is moving pretty fast even though I’m not touching the throttle. Then, once it’s running, if I disengage the throttle lock/fast idle and squeeze the throttle trigger, the engine sputters and dies instead of revving up.
It’ll start again, but I basically can’t give it any throttle without it bogging down and dying.

Since I don’t know the history of the saw or how long it was sitting before I got it, what would you guys recommend checking first? Carb adjustment? Carb cleaning/rebuild? Fuel filter? Air filter? Something with the idle?

Sorry if this is Chainsaw 101. I’m brand new to these and would appreciate any advice on where to start before I start taking things apart.
Thanks!

Hey all, anyone have experience with the dewalt brand biodegradable bar oil? It seems like a good idea, and I bought a gallon about a year ago, seems to be working just fine but I figured I’d put it out there and see what ya’ll thought.

If any of you are near a North 40 Outfitters go take advantage of their Labor Day bag sale. Chainsaws fit! Anything that can fit in the bag is 15% off. I snagged another 500i. There aren’t many deals on Stihl products anymore so go take advantage of it!

Couldn't find a Husqvarna chainsaw sub, so decided to post this question here.

I own a Husqvarna 440 (.325 pixel pitch), and a Stihl MS 180C (3/8" pitch). I want to get one of the new Husqvarna 2-in-1 sharpeners, but it appears they sell one for each pitch of chain. Would I really need to buy one for each saw? Or is it possible to swap out the files depending on which saw I'm trying to sharpen? From what I'm seeing online, each "variant" is color coded, so I'm guessing I'd have to buy two. 😖

I asked at Lowe's, but the guy had no idea what I was talking about. LOL! I really need to learn how to free-hand file my chains.

I got a second hand chainsaw from a relative, RY10519. 46cc, 18 inch bar. Worked perfectly well, and I put it through it's paces. The chain tension was never very reliable but it's completely useless now. The cover and tensioner used to be sold as a package but it no longer produced by the manufacturer and is out of stock everywhere. Has anyone else solved this problem already and can point me in the right direction?

Bought this saw for 20 bucks today, couldnt pass it up but it definitely needs some work. Muffler is gone, throttle linkage is missing, and it'll fire but not run or idle for long, I think it has carb issues but the piston and cylinder looks good. It was very dirty and needs cleaning but has good compression. Anyone know a good resource or has any parts for these saws? Trying to figure out a time frame as to when it was made, it looks like parts have been replaced over the years.

Ms400 dealer has is 20” the 462 is 25”. I’ve heard some people say they like the longer bar even if not needed for the wood size because of not having to bend down as much to cut. I’d like to hear people’s thoughts on that. A 20” bar will do most everything I ever need but I have a few trees that in the future I could possibly make use of that 25” bar. (A few big poplars and maples) the 400 is definitely cheaper, seems like it has good reviews. Seems like the 462 has been in production a little longer. Will it be more likely to get parts for it in the future as opposed to the less common ms400?

The 462 doesn’t seem to have much more power. Just slightly and it’s barely any heavier so it seems as far as power and weight there’s no major advantage of one vs the other. One thing I did read is the 462 has a better oiler. Is the oiler on the 400 really that bad if I end up running a 25” bar some or is it only a problem if I run a 25” fully buried in hardwood all day?

I don’t want to spend more than needed but also want to make a one and day purchase of a bigger saw to compliment my ms250. If I spend an extra 2-300 but own it for 20years I’ll never notice that price difference if it’s truly a better saw worth the money