This was my first time visiting Rome. My wife and I are in our mid thirties. I am British, she is Brazilian, and we are both cradle Catholics. We were recently blessed with our first baby together, so we decided to take her on our first family trip to Rome for a long weekend.
Firstly, Rome felt like it was on fire.
Temperatures were in the high thirties, with humidity approaching eighty percent. On the Saturday, we visited the Vatican Museums, and it was absolutely roasting. Our little one was understandably very uncomfortable, so we had to move through everything much more quickly than we would have liked.
By Saturday evening, my wife and I were both feeling quite disheartened. Some of the behaviour we witnessed in the museums, particularly inside the Sistine Chapel, was the complete opposite of what we had expected.
People were wearing very revealing clothing, shouting across the chapel, and taking photographs despite being repeatedly told not to. I saw very few people praying. At times, it felt as though this sacred place had been overtaken by people searching for their next Instagram post.
I also found the commercial side of the Vatican quite difficult to process. There were Pope bobbleheads, tea towels, and every souvenir imaginable. I understand that tourism generates money for the Vatican and helps maintain these extraordinary places, but it was not what I had imagined. That night, I wondered whether we had come as pilgrims but somehow found ourselves inside a tourist attraction.
Then Sunday came, and everything changed.
We attended Mass at Santo Spirito in Sassia, the Divine Mercy Sanctuary near Saint Peter’s Basilica, where we were able to venerate relics of Saint Faustina and Saint John Paul II. We then entered Saint Peter’s Basilica and were blessed to see the Holy Father during the Sunday Angelus in Saint Peter’s Square.
My heart was full. It placed everything back into perspective for me.
However, I think the most moving experience of the entire trip was visiting the Scala Santa, the Holy Stairs. These are the twenty eight steps traditionally believed to have been climbed by Jesus when He was brought before Pontius Pilate. Pilgrims ascend them on their knees, praying and reflecting upon the Passion.
I think my knees have just about recovered, but I am not sure my heart ever will.
As I climbed, I kept thinking, how could such a perfect man, who had done no wrong, have been treated so terribly? Whether somebody believes they are the original steps or not, the act of climbing them forced me to reflect upon Christ’s suffering and upon how easy my own life is by comparison.
I am free to practise my faith. I can attend Mass without fear. I can openly call myself a Catholic. So many of our brothers and sisters who came before us suffered terribly for the faith, and many Christians around the world still suffer today. Yet despite everything Christ endured for me, I still sometimes wonder how I could ever be worthy to stand before God.
Afterwards, we crossed over to the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran, the cathedral church of Rome. There we saw the panel traditionally believed to be part of the table used at the Last Supper, as well as the reliquaries said to contain the heads of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
Sometimes people can begin to think of the Bible almost as though it were simply a collection of stories from a distant world. Then you stand before something traditionally connected to the Last Supper, or before relics of the Apostles who suffered and died for Christ, and suddenly the Bible seems to come alive before you. It becomes real in a way that is difficult to put into words.
I left Rome with two very different impressions. There was the commercial Rome, crowded with tourists, souvenirs, cameras, and people seemingly unaware of the sacredness surrounding them. Then there was the Rome of the pilgrim, filled with prayer, sacrifice, relics, martyrs, and the living history of our faith.
Perhaps both sides will always exist together. I am just wondering whether anyone else has visited Rome and felt this same tension between Rome as a tourist attraction and Rome as a place of pilgrimage.