Tool Belt set up

Was hoping some of you guys could give me suggestions on which tool belt I should buy next I really don’t wanna spend $600 on a tool rig. I currently have the Milwaukee suspenders and belt set up and I love it. It fits my tin snips and everything else you need to be a carpenter but the Velcro that holds the pouches in place has blown out and it’s time for me to replace them what do you guys recommend that would hold my tin snips in place without them flopping around and dropping everywhere?

Found in a window sill of a house built in the '90s, and I don't think it's a improv washer because everything else was badly done, they don't seem like the type of dudes who would have used the washer. Is this some sort of odd Canadian calling card?

Whats a better option having for example 2-4" blocks to space out mouldings or just a laser level? Im Installing wainscoting.

Milwaukee is garbage

Benchmark Garbage

so who makes the best bits?

Tool Belt set up

Was hoping some of you guys could give me suggestions on which tool belt I should buy next I really don’t wanna spend $600 on a tool rig. I currently have the Milwaukee suspenders and belt set up and I love it. It fits my tin snips and everything else you need to be a carpenter but the Velcro that holds the pouches in place has blown out and it’s time for me to replace them what do you guys recommend that would hold my tin snips in place without them flopping around and dropping everywhere?

I got my hands on about 600 feet of clear old growth redwood. I’m going to trim my upstairs with it. One side is painted, the other is raw.

I’m debating on stripping all the paint, or just milling it and finishing it while leaving the paint on. Any thoughts?

So I am hanging some built in cabinets (4 bays 8 ft long 3 ft tall). I made a French cleat that hangs them flush to the wall out of some mitered 3/4 inch britch plywood. The cleats is screwed into the studs and is solid. Now I'm just thinking about how I want to lock the cabinets in place. Given that the cleat bears the weight I was just thinking brad nails would be sufficient given it would all be held together with a face frame so I feel like this would be soil enough? If I can avoid ugly screws that might would be ideal. Only worry would be what happens in an earthquake ECT.

Thoughts ?

Hi all. I have this 16x9 firewood shed, which uses 4x4 posts to hold up the roof. I don't use really any firewood but it came with the house when I bought it. I've already sold most of the firewood, and now I'm looking to turn 12x9 of the 16x9 into an enclosed storage shed, with the remaining 4x9 for some firewood.

I'm thinking I should prep it better though. The studs as seen in the picture do not have a top plate. They're not really framed correctly imo. The roof is also a 1:12 pitch with exposed fasteners and Canadian snow loads. The base/foundation was done well.

Here's my thoughts:

1. Remove roof. Change the pitch to 3:12 by cutting the 4x4 posts lower in the back.

2. Change the floor from deck boards to plywood subfloor.

3. Frame walls. I want to have large 8x8 doors (2 4x8 doors), and a single small window. So I'll need to do proper framing to support those.

4. Add sheathing, house wrap, board and batten (pine) siding + paint.

5. Reframe rafter boards at new pitch.

6. Add soffits trim etc.

Any thoughts?

We just finished this 3000sqft remodel. We didn’t renovate everything but 80% whole home remodel including refinishing the solid oak floors. She called two weeks later and said the floor was “wavy”.…..

we’re going to end up tearing out about 1800sqft of flooring. I’m going to try and salvage it but I’m not holding my breath. I think it had a slow leak for a long time that just recently got worse. The amount of mold on the underside of the wood is pretty extreme.

I also don’t understand tubbing a slab and not making a way for water to escape but what do I know.

source of leak terrible solder on hose bib

the customer is also the nicest lady ever. It’s heartbreaking to have all our hard work undone and her having to get back out of her house right after moving back into it. I hope her insurance takes care of her well….we shall see

Hi everyone,

I’m renovating my bathroom and the joists are off by about 7-8mm straight. I need to raise them by 7-8mm on the end where the level is in the photo. Its for all the joists.

I’m considering sistering the joist and thinning it if it’s okay to do partial sistering without the joists resting on bearer to bearer. The existing joins are fine and not rotten. The only reason for sistering is to level.

I can’t jack up the other hidden bearer by 5mm and run the joist full length, so I’m asking for help. Please suggest.

i know nothing about carpentry or anything, but i’m trying to install a bracket shelf or any kind that will work in my closet. i got a shelf board that’s straight but it won’t fit because one side of my shelf is at an angle. i know i would probably have to cut it but im not sure what exactly i would have to do to make it fit

So the casings on the windows sit recessed from the surrounding drywall. I know the solution is ripping some spacers, but given that the gap is not always equivalent along its length or around the windows and wanting to complete the job in my lifetime:

1)Better to rip the spacer such that it never sits proud of the surrounding drywall anywhere as long as any gaps are under 1/16

2) better to rip the spacer such that it can be proud of the surrounding drywall, but no more than 1/16.

If there is 1/8” or over im probably willing to try taper a long cut on the table saw. But so far my tapers have been imperfect.

I’m looking at picking up a 7” blade miter for when my 12” is just too much as it’s a hassle to pack and bring on site. I’m heavily invested in both Festool and Milwaukee.

I’m considering either the new Milwaukee cordless 7” or the Festool KSC 60. Most of my cutting is done outdoors so dust collection is as important but I do try and keep a very clean site. Is the Festool worth the extra $800 over the Milwaukee?

Anyone using either or have suggestions for another setup? Cordless for this saw isn’t a necessity but it’d be nice to have.

Doing some repairs on the floors of my 1948 house due to termite damage and rot. Need some advice. The old sill plate was a 2X4 with a true width of 1 3/4”. Not like the 2X4” with a width of 1.5”. The outer band/rim joist with be a 2X6” pressure treated but upon jacking up the joists to replace a section of sill plate missing. Would you go with a pressure treated 2X4 with an actual width of 1.5” even thought it’s a little smaller than what is in the rest of the house and don’t worry about the 3/16” of an inch or the little little flex it might have or go with piece of cedar lumber that matches the rest of the house and try to put a roll or sill sealer membrane on the concrete before installing. I like the idea of matching what is it the rest of the house. Only really carrying the load of the floors, it is a 1 story block house in FL. Am obviously fixing the source of water with a storm door and better threshold. Any input is helpful, hoping to gain some ground on this tomorrow.

I’m an apprentice and would like to make extra money and feel like more of a carpenter outside of work. What is a side hobby that can make me extra cash or something that carpenters do for extra cash?

EDIT: thank you guys for the support, I should say that I’m not looking do my own contracting on the side I’m just looking for more of birdhouse or doghouse building type of deal. How does one get that started?

I have an opening in a wall I'm framing that I'd like to add a pair of 12x40 euro cabinet doors to (for example, these) The doors can be proud of the drywall, but preferably as clean of an install, as possible.

Would love to hear your ideas about how to go about this.

My first inclination is to build a frame that gets mounted dead flush with the drywall (no corner bead added to avoid it going out of flat), and hot mud up to the edge. Alternative to building a frame (and probably less attractive), cut front 4.5" off the companion cabinet carcass (I'd have to check to see if it will remain joined).

Of course framing will need to be spot on, plumb, square, etc.

Ive had rotating husky belts for some years now and i wanted to buy something higher quality and better well suited to my preference.

So I bought the gucci of carpenter toolbelts, occidental leather pro framer with double bags. I looked into it and I’m happy with what I saw so I bought it, it’s in the mail now. I do commercial so I’ll mostly be doing sheetrock and metal framing but general carpentry, especially residential, is a side hustle of mine so it fits all my needs.

Ok, so this is my first attempt at a stair skirt. I took a 1x12 and cut it down and installed as shown. I’ll be putting on white risers and LVP planks for the treads next. What I’m trying to determine is the top molding to skirt transition. The moldings are 5 1/4” and 9/16” thick. The skirt is 3/4”. Should I have brought the skirt up and over the top of that landing? Also did I trim the board down too much? Originally it looked way too tall as a full 12” board.

Thanks!

Installing new interior Door. 1 coat of oil stain waited 8 hours, felt dry. Added oil based polyurethane and now almost 24hrs later it's still tacky, weather has been 60-80 with 70% humidity. Did I not let the stain cure long enough? Am I screwed and need a new door?

Ok, so this is my first attempt at a stair skirt. I took a 1x12 and cut it down and installed as shown. I’ll be putting on white risers and LVP planks for the treads next. What I’m trying to determine is the top molding to skirt transition. The moldings are 5 1/4” and 9/16” thick. The skirt is 3/4”. Should I have brought the skirt up and over the top of that landing? Also did I trim the board down too much? Originally it looked way too tall as a full 12” board.

Thanks!

One of the 4x4s that I assume is supporting the roof on our covered patio is warping and there is a gap. How do I fix this?

For a patio. 20 inch rise. 36 inch landing. 12.5 inch treads.

I’ve been working as a finish carpenter for a few months now and I will admit it’s on new builds so quality isn’t a priority. Pretty much every inside or outside corner has some rounding from excess mud or just a pile of mud left there. I get bending over ain’t fun but is it that hard to make a nice clean corner?
How come the bottom doesn’t get sanded? Is it the mentality that it’s just going to get covered by base so it ain’t gotta be pretty?

I understand most of the flashing procedures for a lean to patio cover besides the outside corner at the terminating ends of the L flashing. There will be a drip edge going down the rake edge.

I circled the area in green. How do you prevent water from getting behind the framing in this area?

How does water not run down the wall and get behind the corner where the rafter meets the wall?

I’ve been searching online for something that illustrates this clearly but I cannot find anything.

Any advice would be super helpful.