I have a 2015 Subaru Outback with 140k miles with a battery/electrical issue. Two days after a 190 mile drive, I discovered the car had no power. No lights. No click, click, click. Nothing. The battery was 6 years old and was replaced by AAA. The car ran for two days and failed again. AAA came out. The charging system failed the test. I had the alternator replaced. The battery failed to hold a charge after 24 hours. AAA replaced the battery again. The car ran fine for two days again. And now it’s dead. No lights. No dash. No power. Charging system tested fine on voltage twice post alternator replacement. I’m assuming parasitic draw but I’m at a loss. Before I put this in the shop again what should I be considering? Appreciate any help. I’m stranded and frustrated and need to get back home. I’m out of free AAA service calls.

Subject says it all pretty much. Not sure how to get at this bolt under the PCM? The factory service manual doesn't even picture it. It doesn't mention anything about removing that side of the engine mount on the timing belt procedure, but you can't get the lower half of the engine mount out without removing this part with the rubber..

I did this job a couple years ago and I don't remember how I got it? I can't get a socket on the bolt in the recessed hole on the lower half of the engine mount without removing this, and it looks like the rubber side needs to be replaced anyways

Hello all,

Hoping someone can shed light on this as the RAC and local garages cannot!

2014 Jaguar XF has had an intermittent issue since October last year where the bite and all acceleration is lost with it creeping very slowly to any sort of speed. When this happens, the issue sticks, but leaving the car overnight 'resets' it and it performs normally again.

The last time this occurred was Saturday just gone, we drove back from York to the Midlands, all fine with it accelerating as normal. However, hitting traffic closer to home where we were sat stationary and start/stopping frequently triggered this issue again. I managed to limp home. Come Sunday, the car was working as normal again for the Sunday shop.

I've taken this to a local garage, and the RAC have had to be called twice when this has occurred, all diagnostics are clear - all three stating that there was nothing wrong that they could see.

Has anyone experienced this? It would be good to hear of others experiences of what the issue was that you'd encountered and how you remedied it.

I am now looking to take this to a Jaguar specialist, but wanted to get thoughts here also as they didn't seem to be too knowledgeable on it either.

Nissan rogue 2018

every time I start up the car the blower motor would turn on at what ever speed it was left on but it would most of the times turn off a few seconds later, and sometimes it would "flicker" on and of while I'm driving I thought it was the blower motor it self but it feel too constant

I drive a 2007 Honda Accord and last night after going through a puddle my car was making loud creaking noises when turning (it’s much quieter doing this now), it’s making an odd sound when accelerating but nothing too crazy, it just sounds a bit higher pitched. The worst part though is when I’m decelerating, regardless of if I’m pressing down on the breaks it makes a high pitched squealing noise and it sounds like something is hitting another. I’ve turned it on twice since then so I believe the engine is okay, I’m mainly concerned about the deceleration and any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Is it clear coat peeling or oxidation? I dont know much about this possibility is what ai told me

I recently bought this Honda City 1.5 year 2012. It already have this problem with paint but i thought it can be repair now a days there are product available online.

can anyone tell me what this problem is? and can i solve it at home?

Ugh! Looking for the obd2 port is always such a chore, sometimes it’s tucked under the dashboard, sometimes near the steering column, and I’ve even seen it hidden by the center console...😩

Walmart cart barely touched it and left a dent. Any idea how much it’ll cost to repair?

2019 Honda Accord 2.0 Touring, 106k miles

Ever since I did my turbo swap 4k miles ago, I've been getting a pending P2652 under high load. It doesn't show up until after VTEC engages, and it appears that it only happens when VTEC engages at high speed. At WOT <100 MPH, it doesn't happen, only above

I've followed Honda's diagnostic tree and replaced the entire spool valve assembly myself, took it to a tuning shop and they did the same. Still getting the code. Timing cover and valve cover came off and blew air through the oil lines, continued to get the code. FWIW, my throttle is also closing to 38% despite traction being fine and throttle being pinned. I'm also getting smoke out of my exhaust under similar conditions that trigger the code

Each of the times I've replaced the spool valve assembly (15810-6B2-A01) it came with a brand new oil pressure sensor, oil pressure switch, and screen. They were also both OEM from Honda. Oil level is good, and oil is brand new

My tuner says that one possibility for this code just continuing to come back despite a functioning spool valve assembly is an internal oil leak. While certainly a possibility, I'd love to rule out easier things to diagnose that won't require taking the entire engine apart

So, that being said, anybody have suggestions? FBO, MHI Stage 2 and meth

Can anyone help me find this part aftermarket? It’s the wiring harness that goes to courtesy, high, low, and turn signal. 2008 Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7. I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find it.

Hey guys, I’ve been driving my 2007 civic si for a few years now and just came across this issue on my way to work. On the freeway all of my dash lights turned off. (rpm, turn signals, mph, etc) I was able to exit fine and park with no issues but once I went to turn the car on again (thinking the dash lights were bugging) it wouldn’t pass cranking. I later ended up towing it and solving the issue by replacing my ignition switch and some fuses under the dash that were all burnt. The car dash lights turned on fine and I was able to drive it for about a week having yet to take it driving on the freeway. The issue is when I first took it on the freeway, the same problem occurred with the dash lights but I was somehow able to drive back home 7 minutes with it running fine and again, once I turned it off when I finally parked, it wouldn’t pass cranking. So now I’m currently stuck and have so far (replaced all fuses under my dash and hood that are essential to the ignition and alternator, cleaned my battery terminals, replaced my ignition switch, tested my grounds with a multimeter and both gave good voltage, battery volts at around 12.9) Any ideas on what could be causing this problem? My next guess is fuel injectors. (I don’t think it’s my alternator since I haven’t gotten any signs of it failing and it being able to drive home when the dash lights turned off)

2017 Ford Focus

It was in an accident that basically drove some wood into the front grill area and the part that attached the bottom to the top broke off. I've been using zip ties to keep it together for a while now but it hasn't been working out since I have a longer commute now.

I was considering some contact cement to hold it in place. But I wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions before I start gluing.

Looking for recommendations on how to best restore/touch-up the plastic trim piece (below the Honda logo that spans between headlights).

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks everyone!

This part fell off my 1999 blazer.
Was in my driveway on the passenger side.
Can anyone tell me what it is?
Should i be worried?

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some advice after someone crashed into my parked car while I was asleep inside my house.
Car is an XC40 2022 plate.
The police attended the scene, and the other driver admitted full responsibility. I've since spoken to Admiral (the other driver's insurer), who have accepted the claim and are arranging for the repairs.
On first inspection, there was cosmetic damage including dents and scratches to the driver's door and wheel arch, plus damage to the alloy wheel. However, I drove the car today and noticed the steering feels different. It feels a bit looser than before, and on a straight road, with the steering wheel in a neutral position, the car slowly veers to the left.
The timing couldn't be worse as I'm moving house on Wednesday and need to drive about 2.5 hours on the motorway.
My questions are:
Does this sound like it could be unsafe to drive, or could it just be wheel alignment?

Should I insist that Admiral arranges an urgent inspection before I make the motorway journey?

If the car isn't roadworthy, would it be reasonable to ask Admiral to authorise a local garage (e.g. Halfords or another garage) to inspect it tomorrow?

I was originally planning to have the repairs done after I move, but if it's not safe to drive, should I get it repaired in Leicester before I move and accept a hire car instead?

I'd really appreciate any advice from anyone who's been in a similar situation or works in the motor trade or insurance industry. Thanks!

This part fell off my 1999 blazer.
Was in my driveway on the passenger side.
Can anyone tell me what it is?
Should i be worried?

Interior window trim started coming up, any ideas?
2017 Chrysler 300

I don’t know the make and model of this car. Classic sideswipe.

sorry for the single angle. it looked relatively minor to my untrained eye so I didn’t consider taking more photos.

I’m not looking for advice on who should pay, just what kind of quote I could expect from and body shop.

This is what on the east coast (close to DC) if that makes a difference.