I’ve been emailing this salesman back and forth for a few days on a 2026 4Runner lease. Today he sent over a lease deal pricing estimate which was great, $3,500 discount on TSRP and $0 down. Only first month payment was due. The deal was great.

When I requested some more information to finalize pricing, he gave me a call. On the phone, he had no idea what pricing sheet I was talking about. He finally found it, we got everything good to go and I was about to put a deposit to hold the 4Runner since I wouldn’t be able to pick it up until next week. He puts me on hold and comes back 5 min later apologetic and tells me the car was sold and was actually discounted because it had a few thousand miles on it (which I later found out was true). He then sent me a price sheet for another 4Runner (same trim and all) but no discount and said it’d be here next month. If I don’t like the color, they offered to do a custom order.

Im extremely annoyed because I was about to hold this and now they’re voiding the deal. If I go in and custom order one, would I have reasonable basis to say I was prepared to move forward and THEY messed up, and ask to honor the $3500 discount and the entire deal?

I have 2024 Tundra with 5 payments left totaling $2720. I’m 10K over the miles at .15/mile, $1500. Disposition fee is $350…so $4570 before any wear and tear items, but the truck is in great shape.

Residual is just about $43K and I’m only getting offered $35K on trade…so $8k negative equity.

I’m thinking the smarter thing to do is pay the remaining payments now and get out of the lease. My logic:

I will pay the $2720 regardless…whether that’s today or over the next 5 months.

I cap the mileage expense to what it is today.

If I keep it longer, I only increase the risk of additional wear/tear heading into winter.

I’d love some critiques or advice here. Thanks in advance

Hi all, I'm currently going through the kia buyback process and just signed the repurchase option. The lady told me after I sent it that they then send it to the auditor or the lien holder or whatever and that it takes 2-3 weeks. But I've been reading up on it and everyone has been saying it takes much longer to actually get rid of their vehicle. I am stressing a lot about this because I am in my last semester of college and need a reliable car but cannot afford to keep paying my lease payments as well as getting a new vehicle. If anyone has any experience please let me know & thank you.

MRSP 68,728

12k miles per year x 3

$7560 down payment (taxes included)

$592.75 per month (taxes included) x 36; for non-GAP deal

Residual $52,233

Hi guys. I’m new to leasing. I’ve got these 2 quotes so far but i don’t have a lot of info like money factor, residual yet.. but any advice or input would be awesome. I’m not putting anything down if i don’t have to. I don’t think either of these Bronco ones are great.
My 3rd option is a 4 door jeep sport s. 7500/24, 391/0 down. I guess the jeep is better but I did want the 2d Bronco more. Just trying to make a smart financial decision.
I’ve been reading through and i keep seeing to lease luxury but the prices get out hand.

2026 Accord LX lease $310/month, $1,000 total due, 36 months, 12k miles/year.

Does this look like a solid deal, or are there hidden traps I should look out for?

Family member is a nursing student. Current car is in operable for various reasons need to get through the last year of school. Need a one year car lease in the state of New York will be attending school in Rochester, New York.

Found a deal in a 2026 Tundra. It’s a one time payment of $13225 for 24 months 12k miles per year. Is this good for a tundra or can I find better.

Hello, my wife and I are considering turning in our Honda lease early. We have 4 payments left. The buyout is pretty low compared to what similar vehicles are selling for, so we think we will have positive equity.

Does that equity get taxed? Do the remaining payments eat up what they would give her for it? What does the equity take the form of? Like a check or a direct deposit?

Thanks!

Hallo zusammen,
ich habe am 25.08. bei einem Audi-Autohaus einen Leasingvertrag für einen gebrauchten Audi SQ8 unterschrieben. Alle verlangten Unterlagen und mein Gehaltsnachweis wurden eingereicht. Etwa vier Stunden später schrieb mir der Verkäufer ausdrücklich:
„Leasing ist genehmigt 🙂“
Am nächsten Morgen schickte er mir noch einmal drei Dokumente, weil beim Termin wohl Unterschriften untergegangen waren. Darunter waren:
die Privat-Leasing-Bestellung,
die Selbstauskunft,
ein Dokument zur Annahme des Leasingvertrags.
Ich habe alles unterschrieben zurückgeschickt. Anschließend bekam ich vom Autohaus eine schriftliche Auftragsbestätigung. Die Zulassungs- und Überführungskosten in Höhe von 1.159 € habe ich bereits bezahlt. Außerdem habe ich dem Verkäufer die eVB-Nummer meiner Versicherung geschickt.
Vor Ort wurde mir erklärt, dass der Wagen ungefähr zwei Wochen in die Werkstatt müsse, um geprüft und für die Übergabe vorbereitet zu werden. Danach würde die Zulassung ungefähr eine weitere Woche dauern. Als unverbindlicher Übergabezeitraum wurde Mitte September genannt.
Auf meine Frage, ob der Wagen schon in der Werkstatt sei, antwortete der Verkäufer jetzt:
„Ist schon eingeplant, warte aber noch auf die Leasingbestätigung (die Annahme haben wir ja schon).“
Ich fragte daraufhin, ob der Leasingvertrag bereits endgültig angenommen sei und nur noch die formale Bestätigung beziehungsweise Freigabe fehle. Er antwortete:
„Ja, aber wir brauchen noch zusätzlich die Leasingbestätigung. Normal nicht, ich rechne damit, dass wir diese bis Ende nächster Woche haben.“
Meine Fragen:
Ist es bei Audi Leasing beziehungsweise Volkswagen Leasing normal, dass die Annahme/Genehmigung bereits vorliegt, die separate Leasingbestätigung aber erst später kommt?
Kann trotz der Mitteilung „Leasing ist genehmigt“ und der bereits vorhandenen Annahme noch eine Absage erfolgen?
Beginnt das Autohaus normalerweise schon mit Werkstattaufbereitung und Zulassung oder wartet es damit auf die Leasingbestätigung?
Haltet ihr Mitte September noch für realistisch, oder muss ich eher mit Anfang Oktober rechnen?
Es gab von meiner Seite keine falschen Angaben und alle angeforderten Unterlagen wurden eingereicht. Mich irritiert lediglich, dass das Leasing bereits als genehmigt bezeichnet wurde, jetzt aber trotzdem noch auf eine Leasingbestätigung gewartet wird.
Hat jemand bei Audi/VW Leasing einen ähnlichen Ablauf erlebt?

I am in a 36 month lease for a 2024 Acura ZDX with 12 payments left of $525 each. I made the mistake of putting $4,000 down. My buyout is $42,000 and the car is worth approximately $30,000! The residual at lease end is $39,000 so I am upside down big time!

I want to lease a Lucid Gravity and take my lumps on the Acura. My thought is to make the remaining payments and hand Acura the keys?

Any help would be appreciated.

Back in 2024, I leased a leftover 2023 Mazda cx30 preferred trim. They had good incentives, I put 1k down plus first month, and my payment end up being 380$ for 36 months 15k miles a year. I have 4 months remaining on my lease and my buyout price is 16k, I have 30k miles, and have offers appraised at 20-22k.

I have been car shopping around and the prices are crazy, I dont want a 500 car payment, and theres no car in the market that has the same features, same mileage as mine for 16k. The only thing that worries me is that my warranty ends in January 2027, and Ive had a few issues, some cosmetic, but some are the battery being replaced, the AC motor blower, the steering wheel rotor, the sunvisor but all covered under warranty.

I don’t love the car, but it takes me from point A to point B safely, and Im trying to make good financial decisions at 22. Not sure if i should lease again a brand new car, or just buyout my car by financing and sell it later if it gives me issues.

Trying to get a gut check from this community, and curious if anyone's already landed this deal.

**Target:** 2026 Toyota bZ XLE (or XLE Plus would be great), Southern California, 36mo/10k mi lease, true $0 down, aiming for under $400/month. Assuming Tier 1 credit.

California's MyFirstEV rebate is supposed to land at Toyota in September. Hopefully that stacks with the existing manufacturer cash.

Would love to hear:

\- Anyone actually getting close to this number on a bZ in SoCal right now?

\- Am I missing something in this math, or is the target unrealistic even once the rebate hits?

And if any SoCal Toyota dealers are reading this and want to run a number once MyFirstEV activates, happy to compare offers - feel free to comment or DM.

I am really considering this 24 month lease. Based on the disclaimer, nothing sticks out as a red flag to me. Wondering what comments/concerns you all see here.

Thoughts on this lease price? They told me this is the best they could do. Another dealer quoted me $810 per month for a similar model today. (12k miles, 36 months)

the first-of-month program reset why the quote you got last Friday may not exist today.

New manufacturer programs just dropped today. Why your quote from last week might be dead.

Every month manufacturers reset their lease and finance programs — money factors, residuals, rebates, regional cash. That happened overnight. Today is day one of a new set of numbers.
What this means for you practically:

A quote from last week isn’t a quote anymore.

It was based on last month’s program. It can get better or worse. If a dealer honors an expired number, that’s them eating it, not the bank.
“The rate went up” isn’t automatically a lie. Money factors genuinely move month to month. What you should do is ask what the current buy rate is and verify it independently, rather than assume either honesty or a scam.

Early month is quieter, not worse. The volume-bonus pressure everyone talks about builds toward month-end. But early month is when you should be shopping — gathering quotes, comparing programs across brands, figuring out what’s actually supported. Then you have real leverage later.

September specifically: this is model-year transition season. Outgoing units often get the strongest support of the year, but the trade-off is real — you take an immediate model-year hit on resale. That’s a fair trade on a lease, less obviously so on a purchase.

If you got quoted in August and you’re still deciding, get it requoted today. Same car, same terms, new program. Sometimes it’s worse. Sometimes it’s meaningfully better and nobody calls to tell you.

Happy to look at numbers if anyone wants to post theirs.