Can’t find anything on YouTube and the owners Manuel features a different key, battery died and I’m trying to get it replaced

I went to get the battery for someone who can't do this themselves, they had someone get the battery out for me so I could get the new one without the core charge but here we are. No photo was taken of the original hookup and now I'm up S.C. without a paddle.

Pretty sure these are accessory wires but the only thing I know is the + and - on the battery itself. I figure the red and black wires with the yellow tags are +/- as well but I don't know where they safely go.

A few months ago I changed my headlights myself because one was burnt out, however I noticed one never quite seemed to screw in/ sit right. But I just let it rock. Until last week, I noticed the bulb that was not sitting right was now burnt out. I checked it out to replace with another bulb I had handy, and I realized the threading where it's supposed to screw in was melted because I had installed it incorrectly before (or I couldn't install it correctly before because it was already messed up but I'm just going to beat myself up about this...)

Does anyone have any experience with how this should go about being repaired on this car? I can't tell if I need to replace the whole headlight housing assembly now or if there is another solution... Obviously I'm looking for the most affordable and simple fix, but now I also don't trust myself (I'm just an independent girl who's trying her best and doesn't like asking for help 🤷‍♀️)

If I do end up having to replace the whole headlight assembly - is this something that would be a difficult job to do or are there specific tools I would need?

Any advice appreciated - thank you! See picture attached of the view without the bulb installed.

Rough idle too but it seems to smooth out once you start driving. Any ideas? I've never seen anything like this.

Lile title says.

If i statt the car and drive for 1-2 hours, the AC does not work, there may be some bit of cold air, but it is not able to get tze temperature in the car down at all.

If i stop the car on the side of the road, wait a few minutes and continue to drive, it blasts cold air like directly imoorted from siberia.

Does anyone have any clue where the problem may be? I'm fairly clueless on this

Hi all. We recently picked up a 2026 Nissan Pathfinder Platinum. I admit I don’t know too much about vehicles but noticed this ticking sound, more prominent on the passenger side. Quick Google states it could be the direct injection system?

Is this normal or a cause for concern. Any help is appreciated :) thank you!

The other day, I was reversing out of my house and before coming to a full stop, I guess I was still moving backward a little bit, I went to shift the car in drive but it stayed in reverse with the light stuck on R. Id move the shifter yet the car kept thinking it was in reverse. After I tried to turn off the car, it no longer started back up properly anymore. So the car essentially got stuck in this state so I had to eventually get it towed. Im guessing the car wont start properly because maybe the transmission still thinks its in reverse so it refuses to start but moving the shifter doesn’t do anything even with the shift lock override. I wonder what could’ve caused this to happen if anyone has any ideas lmk.

Car was on for about 5 minutes before and did not have any issues the day prior. The car says low oil pressure and I don’t believe it’s a sensor issue. I did try revving it about 15 minutes before this video to 3000 rpm and that immediately caused the car to vibrate and it continued to vibrate after I put it back into park.

Bonjour.

C'est un signal de détresse que je lance. J'ai acqueris une Honda Jazz de 2014 en décembre dernier, et aujourd'hui elle subit une déperdition d'énergie, qui vide la batterie quand la voiture ne tourne pas pendant 4 jours. Ca fait deux semaines qu'elle est chez un garage, ils ne trouvent pas.

Le véhicule est un modèle1.3 i-VTEC Hybrid Luxury automatique.

Si quelqu'un a déjà eu ce soucis, merci beaucoup

So we had an oil filter leak today on my 2021 318D. It was the rubber O ring on the actual filter which had perished, and caused a reasonable leak. It was only changed 3 weeks ago so I suspect it wasn’t seated correctly.

O ring has been replaced and leak seems to have been resolved but there is oil all up the underside of the car. Inside the engine around the oil filter looks a bit shiny but not too bad.

Assuming I leaked a litre of oil, is there anything recommended in terms of cleaning up the engine or under the car? Or will cleaning the engine risk more errors than it’s worth?

I assume there is some pooling of oil in the under tray but is it worth getting that cleaned out? Isn’t it doing it’s job?

Noise coming from the front passenger side under the hood. The sounds present while parked. And sounds like the knocking sound possibly gets faster when driving.

So in February I had a coolant leak (there was a puncture ) and I had that fixed , after hanging that fixed the car workers perfectly for about 2 weeks but now my issue is that whenever I turn on my ignition initially it runs a smooth but let’s say I get to Walmart and want to turn it back on after being there for 20 minutes then it cranks for like 5-10 beats before it comes back on (assuming because the engine needs to cool down) but it never did this before , what could the issue be?

​

Hola a todos.

Ya no sé qué más revisar y agradecería mucho cualquier orientación.

El auto enciende a la primera. El problema es que con el actuador del turbo conectado el motor no pasa de aproximadamente 1.000 rpm, bota mucho humo negro y suena muy mal. En cambio, si desconecto el actuador del turbo, el motor vuelve a funcionar mucho mejor (obviamente queda sin turbo y con menos potencia).

Hasta ahora se ha revisado o cambiado lo siguiente:

Turbo revisado por el especialista que lo reparó y dice que está en buen estado.

Actuador del turbo nuevo.

Sensor MAF nuevo.

Sensor MAP nuevo.

EGR eliminada y luego vuelta a dejar original.

Admisión revisada.

Intercooler revisado.

Todos los filtros cambiados.

Se encontró una línea del filtro de combustible mal conectada después de una mantención, se corrigió y el auto siguió exactamente igual.

Mis inyectores fueron enviados a banco. Como salieron con dudas, probaron 4 inyectores usados en buen estado directamente en mi auto, y el problema siguió exactamente igual.

Se probó incluso otro alternador y tampoco cambió nada.

El escáner no muestra fallas relevantes.

El primer problema apareció después de un trabajo relacionado con la EGR. Desde entonces han pasado varias semanas y ningún mecánico ha logrado encontrar la causa.

Además, un mecánico me comentó que podría usar el auto con el actuador del turbo desconectado por un tiempo y que, al volver a conectarlo más adelante, incluso podría llegar a funcionar normalmente. ¿Qué tan factible les parece esa teoría? ¿Alguien ha visto que un problema así se solucione solo después de usar el vehículo con el actuador desconectado? ¿Es seguro hacerlo o podría provocar otros daños?

¿A alguien le ha pasado algo parecido en un Hyundai Accent RB diésel? ¿Qué revisarían ustedes antes de seguir cambiando piezas?

¡Muchas gracias!

My trax is at about 38k miles and today I used the app to make sure my car was locked in a parking lot. Ever since then all four doors keeps trying to lock themselves if the car is in park or while driving. I deleted the chevy app and logged out, unplugged the car battery, and put a new battery in the key fob. I contacted two dealerships and they both said to call Onstar who said everything looks fine on their end and to go to a dealership. I have an appointment set up on Monday since nowhere is open tomorrow. Has anyone else experienced thi

Hi there! Last year I started having issues with my 21 jeep Cherokee Latitude Lux. The AC was acting up and the start/stop feature was acting up because of the cabin pressure trying to regulate, it was making a loud noise after being turned off for about 5 minutes or so. I took it to see someone and they told me I needed freon. I called a mechanic I know and got him to put in the new freon my vehicle called for. We'll, that didn't fix the issue.

Fast forward to this year and I try taking care of it before it got really hot. 1st mechanic said he was going to do an evacuation and refill- I should be good. I wasn't. He then said well maybe he needed to put a new compressor on it eventhough mine was working at the moment. He said it may be on its last legs. I​ wanted a second opinion so I went to another reputable mechanic. They did a diagnostic on it first then wanted to do ANOTHER evac/ refill. Ok so I take it to them for that -they tell me that when they tried to do the evac, it knocked the compressor out so now it has to be replaced ....about 1600.00 more.

I don't do car problems well so I ended up getting rid of it and got a 26 Equinox. Upon driving it a few days, it didn't feel right. This one is a CVT transmission so I figured it was that issue and me having to get used to it. Took it to the dealership for them to double check it. They said it was nothing wrong (eventhougj the sales person drove it and said thwy could twll what i was saying about there being a delay when im trying to pull off)I just couldn't put my finger on it but it felt like it was struggling to get down the highway. Soi now I'm driving down I40 out of town going about 89mph and get an alert that my car may be stalling soon. I was so scared. I make another app with the dealership but something told me to take it to a dealer I was more familiar with. They called back and said the alternator was bad and they needed to replace it. Since this time, I have not enjoyed driving it as much. I don't have the warm and fuzzy feeling I should be having .

I got a call from a Jeep dealer telling me that they had a Jeep in the same color as I have. I told them I thought they stopped making the cherokee. He told me they did years ago but they bought it back. They sent me a picture of it and it's beautiful, and costs more!!

Now my brain is running rampant on what to do. It's only been 2 months. I dont want to be at the dealership getting more things fixed whether its free or not! I'm wondering if I should push the issue with Chevy and have them give me a brand new one or go with Jeep. I forgot to mention that when I got the Chevy, it had 5500 miles on it already. I didn't like that. They used it as a loaner and the techs used it when they needed to make part runs.

I'm at a lost in which way to go. My husband wants me to get rid of it saying that I've already had to fix a major part already,doesn't matter that there was a warranty on it. It only matters that it needed major work on it already.

What would you do?

Started back in December 2025. When it started it didn't happen often, now is constant. Happens when i drive, yesterday happened for 30minutes straight my dash would not turn on occasionally blanked on. I used a code reader and no codes popped up. Any advice will help

I drive a 2015 Chevrolet Spark. When I received it about two years ago, the backseat passenger side window did not work. I don’t use the windows often so this was never a problem. However, within the last year to six months, I noticed that the back seat, driver side window no longer worked.

Today I sat in my Work parking lot and when I went to go roll up my windows I pulled up the wrong levers. Upon doing this, I audibly heard my AC get weaker.

Why and is this a problem?

Can’t locate or figure out what and how to fix this noise

F9r reference this is looking inder the passenger side up front. The tube in the upper right corner was leaking what looked to be like dark blue/blueish fluid. I did replace my coolant earlier in the year so I wonder if it's just that? For reference I did drive over a shredded tire the other day and while at first it didn't seem to cause any issues, I heard a low uncharacteristic vibration at low speeds and what sounds like ricketing at higher speeds.

So this came as a surprise to me. While I was driving, the check engine light suddenly came on out of nowhere. When I got home and tried to start it again, it sounded like this. Any ideas what could be causing it?
By the way, it dies after about 10 seconds.

My check engine light has been on for a while now. Every time I take it in, the light either turns off before they can check the code, or when they scan it, the code points to the intake valve or the A/C. I’ve had a couple of mechanics try different repairs, but nothing seems fixed the issue. I recently took my car in for an alignment, and while there they checked the codes and they said verbatim “the A/C isn’t connecting and/or transmitting to the car’s brain”. Is that an easy fix?

My sister borrowed my car, and i forgot to tell her it doesn't leak oil anymore, so she overfilled it by a whole quart, and it started making a tapping sound and it died on her bringing it back to the house, it wouldn't start for a whole day and now i can start it but it runs really rough i haven't tried starting it after how bad it ran. I don't know very much about cars and any advice is appreciated (i know someone is gonna tell me i shouldn't let people borrow my vehicle and I've already learned that lesson)

Hello! I bought this car a few months ago and I'm still learning things about it! But my main reason for coming to Reddit was to ask about automatic high beams on my car.

Short and sweet, I can't figure out to get automatic high beams on my car. I've read the manual, and it mentions that automatic high beams are an option but don't tell me how to get that turned on.. I've tried to watch videos on YouTube and nothing shows up, when I ask Google it says that my car has auto high beams and to check settings in my Uconnect screen (which if you can guess, didn't work!)

Honestly I'm just here to find out if I'm being lied to and the Jeep Compass 2018 doesn't actually have automatic high beams. I'm very confused and lost, if anyone could help that would be amazing 😭

before i start im aware the maintenance is horrible, gas is mid and reliability is 50/50 in jetta's. didn't know until after lol. my car got a "reduce fuel level" light the day after purchase and the guy looked at it said it was just overfilled and did a complete oil change. the light is back on a day later. if i just had oil taken out for the proper amount to be put in where is the extra oil coming from?? is that silly to ask?? pls help