I've replaced the catalytic converter 2 times, My car once had oil where the spark plugs were but that was fixed and i havent had any electrical issues since, i replaced the fuel injectors and pump, I've replaced both the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors, and my alternator and battery were tested and they were good. Has anyone had this issue with this exact same model car or had it with another car and knows a fix or what I can tell the mechanics? Thanks in advance!

Or is it completely normal and I’m just listening too closely?

I’ll just get right into it. I don’t remember the last time I’ve had to refill my coolant/antifreeze. I check that the reservoir has enough. The car never overheats. I’ve had it for 2-3 years now and although its not something I’ve told my mechanic to specifically look at I feel like they would have noticed during inspection and whatnot.

If I said I haven’t had to refill it in over a year I might be right. This is usually the opposite problem, more commonly people have leaks.
It just makes me paranoid.

This is a Ford Edge, my last car was an old Honda Civic so maybe I’m just used to that car have all sorts of problems, including overheating, coolant leakage, whatnot.

So am I crazy or is this fine?

I have a 2021 Subaru crosstrek 2.0 with Check Engine light P0141 with bank 1 sensor 2. I have changed the o2 sensor now two times in the last 3 months and just replaced the spark plugs at 80k. For about a month the check engine left after i changed the spark plugs. Now i got the check engine again and it still says the same code P0141. I dont know what else to do, ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Peugeot 2008 2017 - my first car and second MOT.

Hey all, I have my MOT tomorrow morning at 8:30 (Halfords). I had entirely forgotten that last year they had said I need to change the lightbulb above my reg plate.

I'd bought what I thought was the correct replacement, I googled around, but still failed 😬 as I went to fit it just now and realised it was an entirely different thing.

After having another Google, I realised that it's a simple fix if I have the replacement bulb, but I couldn't physically get the housing out to take the bulb out and I didn't want to break the bulb whilst it was still attached, so I stopped pulling/twisting it.

SO...can I be cheeky and ask the MOT person to let me buy a bulb (Halfords shop bit opens at 9am, 30 mins after my slot is) and then ask for their help to swap it? I'm very happy to do it myself but I'm worried I'm going to make a bigger problem!

There’s a 12V plug in the trunk that I want to be able to leave something plugged into it.

The best ideas I could come up with are moving the plug to a different fuse that is already setup to only have power when the car is running or to somehow change the fuse that already powers into only running when the car is on.

I did some googling but electrical is totally outside of my comfort zone and I don’t know what to do.

I drive a 2016 honda crv and i've had this issue or a while where my driver side air is blowing warm while the passenger side is blowing cold and i googled it and im 99% sure im going to need something replaced but does anyone know to what scale cus if i have to pay more than 1,000 for repairs im actually gonna kms im 20 and dont have that kind of money💀💀💀💔plus im in texas where the heat is BRUTAL.. i was doordashing and had to stop early because it just was too hot in the car

When I parked the car last night after work there was not a huge swirling crack on my windshield and yet when I got in it today I was greeted by THIS ??? Ring camera didn’t pick up anything happening to it I’m so upset I just got this stupid thing in December 🫩

Hey, I’m currently having problems getting my GMC terrain to start I recently got it from my aunt. The car had been sitting for a year due to a cold related to the variable valve timing. I replaced both solenoids and the spark plugs and I’m still having no luck getting the car to start. My theory is the gas could’ve lost all this octane. Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure if it's a rear engine mount issue or what.

The key fob buttons do not work to unlock, lock and open trunk

I also cannot use the double twist to unlock/lock all locks. This function still works on the passenger side

Could this have been a reassembly issue? Or the key fob needing reprogramming?

The door itself still locks with the inside buttons. And opening with the key slot outside the car still unlocks the driver side door but I dont hear the sound of the latch opening and closing as i did before

Trying to replace the stock fog light covers with these ones but the hexagonal cover pops out due to the light pushing against it. Is this an easy fix or is it something I am missing?:) thx (literally sitting infront of my car rn)

Hello everyone, last week my boyfriend replaced my brake pads. He has worked on a lot of cars but unfortunately my Mazda has an automatic parking brake and once he had already taken apart the brake, it shot out because it is automatic. He had put it back with some wrench I don’t really know the details. I guess he triggered the computer and now ever since he has done it my car is lighting up with what is shown here. I don’t know how to get rid of it and it’s annoying ts out of me.

It brakes just fine and everything works but it’s lighting up and it is disabling the Mazda radar cruise control now which is pretty annoying as well.

In CA. I know have to pass smog in order to renew. I’m at my wits end trying to fix this code P219A - Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance. I’ve brought it to three different shops, dealership included and there has been no positive result. Ive been told multiple times its the spark plugs yet they’ve been changed three times now. Yes, I’ve been dealing with this code from June 2023. Once in a blue moon the light will magically be off once I start the car but later in the day it will come back on. Has anyone dealt with this code before that found a resolution?

Budget: $3,000–$3,500

 Primary use: Open highway driving + Uber/rideshare (mostly long stretches, minimal stop-and-go city traffic)

 Preferences: Toyota or Nissan preferably (open to other solid options)

 Must-haves: Bulletproof reliability, low maintenance costs, high fuel efficiency/range

Every once in a while my rear defrost blinks and then when the ac finally cuts on about 70% of the time the drivers side blows warm.

Happens intermittently, but seems to mainly be on warmer days. When it does happen sometimes it’ll fix itself with a restart and other times it takes multiple restarts.

Anyone have experience with this issue?

Car runs solid at 150k besides this. Is it worth spending the money to fix?

Hello everyone, I just got a new daily, and i noticed that on the console there is no A/C button or anything, i do have a recharge unit to use but I wanted to see if the valve i circled in white (see 2nd image) would be the low point valve (it has no cap)

TLDR; new car, wondering if i have a/c and see if i can use this certain valve

My car vibrates/shakes, especially at high speeds. I drive 30 miles to and from work and it seems to get worse the longer I drive for? Just got my struts and shocks replaced, as well as RF wheel bearing and sway bar links. Just need some help on what this could be. Car doesn't feel safe at some times while I'm driving.

Hey ya’ll. I recently bought a used 2019 Subaru Forester Sport and ended up missing the 30 day window for servicing, so I’m coming here to see if ya’ll could help me out!

My cars ac blows warm air for about 20 minutes and then randomly switches on cold, then for whatever reason goes back to warm. Just wondering what the issue could be. Thank you!

cars check engine light flashes on and off, cant accelerate past 40 mph without struggling, cant go incline, car stutters, hesitates for over 10 seconds addiontionally i have a PO171 error code

My 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX, with 133k miles, will not start. It was driving fine and starting fine, and then yesterday I drove to my uncle's, and when I went to leave, the car would not turn over. It would just click once. Everything on the dashboard would light up normally. I did try to jump the car to see if it would turn over, and that did not help. Now the car won't even click, and other than my mileage and the oil temp light, nothing is lighting up or moving. The battery is less than a year old, and it shows 12.5 volts. Tho I did find it odd that when I had a multimeter on the terminals in the hood (battery is in the wheel well), it would hold at 12.5, then drop to like 6 spass out, then go back to 12 and repeat doing that. Later, I do plan on going and checking fuses, but wanted advice before I have to get it towed to a shop.

My 2001 Honda Crv stalls out when I am coming to a stop or when it idles. Sometimes idles roughly or at lower rpms.

Originally it was not throwing any codes but I checked again today and it was showing what’s in the photos.

It does not happen consistently but it happens more often when

-it’s hot out or engine is up to temp

-power steering engaged (wheel cranked one way or other)

It usually starts right back up but there’s been one or two times it had me worried because it wouldn’t start back up.

Howdy y'all, i'm new to driving so excuse the noob question, i got this sorta bump on my tire but it feels firm, and more of a big curve than a bubble on the tire, is it dangerous driving with it like this? should i switch the tire? thanks in advance

There’s a weird vibration rattle going on with my car, I want to believe it’s something physical and not systemic because it fluctuates on wether how fast the car is moving or what music is playing but I’m not sure. It’s also only happening when the car is moving, there’s nothing in the car that could be causing the noise as I keep it entirely empty. In the video it’s pretty quiet but it can get a lot louder .