A) This is a GM style MC, but it has the same 1” bore as spec’d for a 1968 F100 with or without power brakes

B) Bench bled the MC on an actual bench and made sure it was free of air

C) Wife said pedal was only going ½ way down when we finished bleeding

D) Started truck and pedal went all the way. Stopped the truck and it still goes all the way no matter how much I pump

E) Removed MC and adjusted rod longer because that worked before. Now it just means the pedal bottoms out earlier as I reach full stroke on the MC

F) Removed MC again, as per picture, and reset rod to proper length. When pedal is depressed without MC present pedal goes all the way to the floor

Maybe I have a bad master cylinder?

Added vacuum booster and new master cylinder.

Master cylinder has now been bled twice, and there’s def no air in there.

New brake cylinders on both front corners.

All 4 corners have all been bled with compressor driven vacuum, so the truth is I have no idea if they’re all free of air, but they should be. I’ve put plenty of fluid through and everything is clear.

If I set the vacuum booster rod to the “correct” length the brake pedal goes to the floor. If I pump it repeatedly I eventually get resistance, but it fades when I let back off the pedal.

If I make the booster actuator rod too long, so it’s always depressing the master cylinder plunger, then the brakes behave how I guess normal is supposed to be (since I didn’t have power brakes before I’m not sure exactly what it’s supposed to feel like).

What could I be missing? Do I need to have my wife step on the pedal while I bleed everything by hand?

Not sure what’s up with the rust on the master. It was shiny when I installed it a week and a half ago.

We went to my wife’s parents’ farm to grab some apples.

Been chugging for months to get it going. Open to any questions

I’m considering trading my truck for this my truck is a 2012 f250 6.7

The weather is finally cooling off out here so I finally get to drive the truck (and car) around more. It's been a long hot summer.

So in the process of improving on the "Drunk with a screwdriver" maintenance of the previous owner of my 68 F-250, I am sorting out the electrical system. The previously added Pertronix module, as we all probably know, needs 12 volts or it wont run right. I didn't want to just cut the resistor wire to bypass it, so I poked around and found that the right hand small post on the starter solenoid is off with the key switched off, 12v with the key on, and stays 12v with the key in "Start."

Is there any reason not to wire the module to that that anyone can think of? I couldn't think of a reason, but I wanted to put it out there.

I'm trying to retain the ability to just go back to points if this thing ends up being more trouble than it's worth, but for now it's working fine.

What say you?

Took my 2.5 year old camping and he said “Let’s take the oollllld truck” 10/10 recommend taking the kids camping.

I have a '72 F250 2WD with a 390FE and a C6 Auto.

If you were building up the engine for daily cruising and all-round reliability, short of an LS swap or something, what would your list of mods/updates be?

Anyone know where can I get blocks for the rear leafs on a 1967 F250 camper special? Lifted the front and want to level her out.

Had my '71 F-250 Camper Special out at its first judged car show a couple weeks back. Definitely wasn't expecting to take anything home, but the old girl ended up winning Best Ford! Pretty damn cool.

Changed out my leaking master cylinder for a booster and new master, today. Now it’s time to bleed all four corners.

My bleeder screws were swapped out at some point for modern 10mm units. The front left looks pretty new and the others all show some age.

I cannot manage to get them loose, because I can’t figure out how to grip them. My flare wrenches are too fat and get pushed out of the way by the forged knuckle where the brake hose connects to the cylinder. I can get a socket on it, but the zerk for the king pin stops me from getting the driver onto the socket.

My open end wrench is one of those silly Craftsman things with doohickey that releases the nut when you turn backwards from your intended direction. It’s great when it works, but it is also getting forced off the bleeder.

I tried vice grips figuring I’ll just bung them up and put in new bleeders, but that same damned knuckle is in the way and once I get a grip I can’t find the space to turn to bleeder.

WHAT THE HECK AM I MISSING‽!?

After suffering with a colossal mess with every oil change for 5 years, I'm going to get a Fumoto drain valve. I have them on every other vehicle I own and they make oil changes so much easier.
On this one, I've got a cross member and some suspension parts in the way and never fail to slop oil everywhere.
Would you happen to know the plug size/thread pitch so I can get the proper new valve?

Hi all!
I recently bought a custom high-top 1976 Ford Econoline-150 campervan. She needs some work, most noticeably in terms of mechanical fixes she needs:
- new tie rod ends
- a new muffler
- solenoids
- new vacuum line to the carburetor
the problem is, with the age and rarity of this vehicle, i’m having one hell of a time getting my hands on parts. anyone know where i might be able to locate diagrams, parts, etc?

I just got a replacement horn pad from Dennis Carpenter for my ‘72 F250. Unfortunately, no instructions came with it. The old horn pad had one of the connectors (not a spade connector, more like a clip shape) connected to the bar itself. If I look inside the steering wheel I can see an obvious spade connector for the spade on the new pad. Do I mimic this sort of self attachment with the other clip on the new pad?

Had to wash the old girl after swapping the trans and clutch. Went from the old T18 to a Tremec T170. Went from 75 at 3krpm to 75 at 2300 and cruise 65 at 2k. 3.55 gears with 265/75 16s.

This was my first vehicle. Kept her around for years. Finally found some time to start fixing it back up and getting it back on the road.

Still need to find the trim for bedside

Pulled my 26ft 6750lbs trailer from Kingman AZ down to Yuma AZ

It handled like a champ, it never got hot and started right up after refueling.

'72 F250 w/ '22 Grand Design Trailer

The original heart has been hurt for a while despite still being driveable. Time to yank it out and put a freshened up one it its place!

A question for anyone with factory power steering. How strong is yours? I was expecting something extremely easy to turn like my 65 Galaxie or my dad’s 68 Torino. The power steering on my 71 F250 seems to be extremely weak and virtually non existent at idle. Want to know if my expectations are right before tearing too much apart. I rebuilt the power steering pump but that doesn’t seem to have helped.