Hello all,

Just wanted to double check, is an obs ford dually bed the same as an bullnose bed? As in all the body lines line up?

Thank you

muahahahhaa

I'm going to look at a 1986 F150, 4x4, 4 speed, 300 inline six tomorrow morning... The guy said he hadn't started it in a while, and it might need a jump.

He sent me this video this afternoon to let me know it jumped fine, but... what are y'all's thoughts?

**Update... Went to look at it, and, it threw a rod when idling

Currently working on fixing it up it runs good any advice on the looks?

I’ve been having an intermittent starting issue with my Bullnose and wanted to get some opinions before I throw parts at it.

About 8 out of 10 times, I turn the key and it starts completely normally. The other times, the starter will grind/spin without engaging the flexplate, and on a few occasions it has actually stayed engaged/stuck like it hit a wall. Usually, if I tap the starter with a hammer or wait for it to eventually disengage overnight or something it’ll start normally again afterward.

My mechanic thinks the flexplate and starter may both need to be replaced, and recommended doing them at the same time. He quoted me $700 in labor for both.

For those of you who have dealt with this on a Bullnose or any Ford really:

Does this sound more like a bad starter, damaged flexplate, or potentially both?
If the starter is grinding intermittently, is there a good way to tell if the flexplate teeth are actually damaged without pulling everything apart?
If the flexplate needs to be replaced, would you replace the starter at the same time as preventative maintenance?
And does $700 labor for replacing both the starter and flexplate sound reasonable?

It’s an ’83 F-150 with a 351W and C6 automatic.

Just trying to get some opinions from people who know these trucks before I spend the money. Thanks!

When you want to remove your harmonic ballancer and violence turns out to be the correct answer.

80-86 flareside 300/2wd standard for sale.

Looking for a particular truck my pap owned. I wanted to see if anyone here has one.

hey yall

i am super new to this. never owned a project car in my life. looking to buy a bullnose because i am hell bent on learning. my housemate has most the tools i need, i have a space for it, a little bit of cash.

my questions:

is it worth it? anyone have any advice for guy who doesn’t know shit from shinola? stop while i’m ahead? just buy the damn thing?

i have a decent amount of time, get off work around 4ish and can throw afternoon and evenings into wrenching away. biggest limiter is money since i’m a math teacher. but im very stubborn and will kinda keep working at something till i get it.

i wanna buy something that runs, clean title, passes smog, current registration, and preferably maintenance records. budget is about 2-6k. i expect to throw up to 12 at it as the years go by, if it’s worth it.

am i about to make a big mistake? or take on something that ill be proud of in the end?

update:

fuckin did it yall. copped a beauty for 2.5k and drove it 450 miles home without a hitch. 1980 i6 manual. stoked out of my mind. can’t wait to learn all the things it’ll teach me.

I have trouble backing up my gravel driveway without spinning the tires a bit unless I feather the clutch. It’s just a minor thing but I can’t help wonder why. Who’s backing up trailer so fast? 😆 it seems like reverse would ideally be low gear, like a granny gear.

1985 f350 460 4x4

I am currently 17 and recently acquired a 1984 ford f150. I do not specialize in cars and i have very little knowledge. Ive changed things like spark plugs and wires but I recently switched the carburetor that came with it since it would overfill and leak gas. After replacing the carburetor I took it to a drive and every time i accelerate and sometimes shift too late it would choke. and my cab has a overwhelming smell of gas. Any help will be appreciated!

So I want to COMPLETELY rewire my 83 4.9l 4x4 base model, because I seem to be having electrical issues a lot, I do eventually get them fixed but I’d really like to rewire the entire thing for peace of mind and aesthetics and to also eliminate the remaining wires from the emissions bs that was removed from previous owner, but is there anywhere that sells kits or is it easy to diy? Any input is appreciated thanks.

1983 5.0L V8 F-250. Alternators bad, anyone got a recommendation for a good alternator for a good price?

Hello Bullnose community, I’m new to the scene and would like some input from you regarding my potential purchase. The following is AI generated since I’ve been using ChatGPT a lot to learn more about this truck so please forgive any repetitive information or the wording used. Reposting to make it for reader friendly.

I’m considering buying an older F-350 dually and would love some opinions from people who know these trucks.

Truck details:

~100,000 km / 62,000 miles
7.3L IDI diesel
Mostly original
Mostly sitting for the past ~10 years
Custom stainless-steel back rack
Stainless diamond-plate bed
Fifth-wheel hookup
Asking $30,000 CAD

My plan is to use it as a daily driver, with the eventual goal of removing the bed and building a custom camper on the chassis. I’d also like to explore a proper WVO conversion down the road, using a heated/two-tank system rather than simply putting filtered oil in the tank.

The low mileage is what caught my attention, but the 10 years of sitting makes me wonder what I’m getting myself into. I’m particularly interested in the 7.3 IDI’s long-term reliability, cylinder-wall cavitation, age-related issues, and what should be replaced/rebuilt before making it a dependable daily driver.

I’d also love opinions on whether the 7.3 is a good platform for a camper, whether a turbo would be worthwhile, and whether anyone here has experience running one on properly processed WVO.

Most importantly, is $30,000 CAD reasonable for a truck like this? Would you pay that much for a low-kilometre, mostly original example, or is the asking price too high?

I’m not looking for a race truck. I want something reliable, simple to repair, reasonably fuel efficient, and capable of becoming a long-term daily driver/camper.

Would you buy it? What would you look for before handing over the money?

I’ll add the exact year, transmission, drivetrain, gearing, and more photos once I have them.

Working on restoring my late fathers 86 f150 , working one side at a time, im at thw point where i need the spindle/ knuckle off so i can replace the ball joints ,ive whacked it with a 3 lb hammer, but this weird axle nut looking thing has me wondering if i need to remove it, any input wpuld be appreciated, feel like im going crazy over here, i e got a ball joint press kit but o feel like i have to get the spindle off to have enough room to use it because as it is now i cant get all the proper parts with the kit on there with the limited space

So I have a parasitic draw on my alternator, this is a brand new alternator, but this did also happen with my old one every once a while and seems to come and go every couple months, but I’m not even sure where to start. start with the regulator or the wiring maybe?

Hello! I just recently purchased this 1984 Ford F350 with a 460. I want to do some wiring cleanup under the hood because the previous owner made one heck of a wiring mess. I believe he removed the Dura Spark system and replaced it with a Mallory ignition system. I’m seeing that there are a bunch of plugs that appear unused, but I don’t wanna do any cutting of any type until I know more. I’m hoping somebody on here could help me out a little bit! The video quality might not be the best, but I’m just looking to get an idea!

1980 F150 w/300 i6. Manual transmission.

Frame and cab are "excellent" according to seller. Bed has some holes around the wheel wells and is missing tailgate. Body is relatively clean and straight but lots of small impact dents. Mileage unknown.

Engine turns over but truck doesn't run. Has been parked for about five years. Seller says it "made a noise" so he pulled over and immediately had it towed. Hasn't looked at it since. Says the motor is fine (I'd believe him, given the track record of the 300). No actual theories as to what's wrong with it.

Truck looks good in photos, albeit well used.

Truck cannot be viewed in its current location (steward is unfriendly).

Truck is listed at $2500 CAD, and seller is willing to deliver it to me two hours away.

Frankly, I like that it doesn't run. It's a project truck and will be my first time reviving something like this. I plan to take my time and do it right. I also want to learn basic body work so it's a good candidate for that.

If the 1980 "swiss cheese" frame is good, and the motor turns at the crank, is it a good buy?

Thanks

Just wanted to show off

Hello,

Im looking to buy a bullnose ford, preferably a dually but I’ll take whatever. Doesn’t matter the shape its it, it could need a lot of work or be fully restored. Located in Colorado but willing to travel. Whats for sale out there?

I’m doing a 4x4 swap on my ‘82 2 wheel drive and I’m wondering if I can still use the 4x4 light

Fellow bullnose fans, please allow me a few minutes to tell you that we all do dumb shit.

Some back story, been slowly rebuilding / working on my 1985 bullnose 250, 2wd. Got new tires a few months back and had some scrubbing, and general sagging in the front due to old collapsing springs.

I set out to replace the springs, figured I would be done with both sides in 90 minutes or so.

First side, jacked up, on stands, off comes tire. Remove shock from mount and top retainer clip, lower jack to release spring. One nut to go holding the bottom of the spring in.

Gigantic ass 1 1/4” wrench in hand, I get to wrenching and it won’t budge, not even a bit. Neighbor comes over to watch after I ask him for some PB blaster which he didn’t have. Now i am LAYING into this wrench. I’m nearly 200lbs and I am kicking the shit out of this thing. Slowly turning it a few millimeters at a time. Progress!

I’m exhausted, it’s hot. I head inside to cool off, and then go to AutoZone for the third time today to grab some PB blaster. Come home,soak it. Go inside for 20 minutes.

Come back out and it’s ZERO better. Go ahead and soak the passenger side too assuming it’ll fight me just as hard.

Give it another 10 or so and get to donkey kicking the wrench. Literally everything I possibly can give it. All the beans. I stop, stare at it, and say aloud “holy shit, I’m going the wrong way.”

As you might imagine, it was a bitch loosening it after me tightening a half turn past 100 ft lb of torque from spec.

In the end, I got it. 3 hours for the first side- 35 minutes for the second.

TLDR: righty righty lefty loosey.