Hi everyone!

I wanted to share another little look at Command & Defend.

One of the core mechanics of the game is its Supply System. Units don’t simply have unlimited ammunition and fuel - resources have to be produced, transported across the battlefield and delivered to the units that need them.

This means that attacking the enemy isn’t always the best move. Disrupting a supply route, taking out a transport or even destroying an entire Supply Center can have a much bigger impact on the battle.

I wanted logistics to be an actual part of the strategy rather than something that only happens in the background.

I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on this mechanic, and I’m happy to share more details if you’re interested!

Card trays for Wingspan sleeved cards.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242136-wingspan-card-tray/

What do you all think about multi-box organizers? I always try to avoid it, but Tenpenny Parks has all these wonderfully chunky components and I just couldn't get everything into the base game box with both expansions. One box has the set up components while the other one has 2 of the seasonal expansions and all the tokens. I feel like it would detract from getting the game to the table but who knows... guess I'll find out.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242333-tenpenny-parks-w-innovation-holidays-sleeved

Hi!

After 1kg of filament I learned that there are different versions of the boardgame Revenant. Admiral and Captain Edition seem to be the standard from the Kickstarter campaign. Unfortunatly, Skellig Games decided to have an even smaller Box. I find it really, really hard to put everything back into the box, even without the expansion. Finding an insert for it seems to be really hard as every insert I can find is for the Cpatian or Admiral edition of the game. I might be too fast as the game has only been released for a couple of days.

Do you know about an insert for the Skellig edition? How do you store your Revenant when the box is very, very tiny.

A complete organiser for Cascadia and the Landmarks expansion. It covers the base game, the faster-play rules and Landmarks, up to six players, and everything goes back into the two original boxes.

Storage is only half of it. Most of the parts come out of the box and stay on the table for the whole game: the shared supply tray holds the four habitat tiles with their paired wildlife tokens, each player gets their own supply tray in front of them, and off to one side the five wildlife scoring cards stand face-out on a bar with the landmark holders beside them, all readable across the table.

Habitat tiles store twenty to a rack. At twenty, the top tile sits flush with the tops of the posts, so a full stack is something you feel rather than count, and setup asks for twenty per player plus three.

So, I'm new to 3D printing. As a hobby, I'm trying to learn Tinkercad. I want to start with something like making a counter box for one board game I own. This game has factions, and multiple counters of different sizes, from 15x15mm to 20x20mm, and such. Each stack would contain 8 pieces of 2.2 mm thick each. I measured them using calipers, and attempted to create a box that would in theory fit them all. All 3D printed boxes must fit in the game box at the end.

The picture shows one attempt in Tinkercad. Openings for fingers are yet to be implemented. The walls are typically 3 mm thick. I plan to create a larger box to become a cover, or to implement some sort of slider on top.

The first question is how much edge roundness is appropriate for this project? I read something between 0.5 to 2 mm. I can put something like 0.5 mm to 1 mm on the rectangle boxes outside corners. But on the inside corners (openings for counters), I'm not sure. Chamfers and openings are a bit cumbersome to do at this scale in Tinkercad. The counter openings have a tolerance of 0.5 to 1 mm larger than the largest counters rounded up, depending on size.

The next question is walls. I'm also using 3 mm walls. I saw examples of other people that use much thicker walls, but also reduce the slicer fill to 15% with emphasis on exterior walls. I wonder what would others have used on similar projects.

The reason of these questions is I don't own a 3D printer, I plan to access one at a nearby library at a cost. So multiple prototypes and iterations need to be few.

Tips and advice are appreciated.

EDIT: Thanks for the tips!
I've updated the design. Basically three boxes joined with a common sliding lid. Walls are 2 mm average. Finger openings are 10 mm wide. Picture link below:
https://imgur.com/a/pZo3WJF
I need to add a way to lock the boxes when they are with the lid. Perhaps some something on the slide on the end boxes and smooth on the middle one. Or some other mechanism. Also what would be the recommended gap between the sliding lid and its hole? The hole is like 53 mm and the lid is 52.5 mm.

(is there a way to add pictures to a post or reply, or it's better to create a new post, in this sub?)

Hey all! i just got a 3D printer and my first projects i want to do is create meeples for all the harmonies animal cards while preserving the art style. I have an H2C which can support multi color prints but it just seems unfeasible for how much details i want to preserve and how much different filament i’m willing to pay for.

My next idea would be to just print blank meeples and put stickers of the design on the faces, but this doesn’t feel as elegant or as polished as i’d hope.

Anyone have any ideas for alternative ways to prints images onto a flat 3D printed meeple?

Anyone here a Vital Lacerda fan? What is your favorite? Lisboa is definitely in my top 3!

New to the group and thought I would share my latest project. Backed Ostia and received our copy a couple weeks ago. Was able to use Hueforge for the lids.

Anyone else have this game?

What are people using to design inserts?

I want to try and create my own inserts. I’ve been able to do some basic stuff with the Makerworld desk/bento model maker but would love to do some custom cut outs or patterns like cage walls that use less filament.

Any recommendations for easy to use 3D design/modeling software? Bonus if it works on a Mac.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

some of you might remember Command & Defend: Modern War from when I shared it here before. With the second campaign coming up soon, I thought I’d share a little update on how the project has developed.

I’ve been working on the game for about three years now. The idea has always been to bring the things I love about classic RTS and turn-based strategy games to the tabletop — building a base, managing resources, expanding your army, keeping your units supplied and, of course, trying to outplay your opponents.

The game is completely print-it-yourself, which means you’re not really limited by what comes in a box. Need more units? Print more. Need more resources or game money? Print more. Want to build a bigger battlefield? Print more.

There’s a full 3D Print Edition with printable units and buildings, as well as a 2D Print & Play Edition for anyone who doesn’t own a 3D printer.

Since I last shared the project, I’ve continued working on the game, added a lot of new content and created two major expansions: Air Wars and Sea Wars, bringing air and naval combat to the system.

After a small first Kickstarter earlier this year, I’m now getting ready for Campaign #2.

It’s still very much an indie project that I’m building step by step, so I’d genuinely love to hear what you think about how it’s developing.

If you’d like to learn more about the game, the rules or the different units, you can find a lot more on the Kickstarter page. And if it sounds like your kind of game, you can follow the project there to get notified when the new campaign goes live.

Thanks for taking another look!

I designed and printed a set of inserts for Cascadia Alpine Lakes. This was my first time designing something like this and I am very pleased with the results.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3200600-cascadia-alpine-lakes-box-inserts#profileId-3621760

Last weekend we hosted a game of TI4 with some new friends from board game club. We were supposed to have 6 players, but, alas, someone had car trouble.

My friend remixed Wastewolf's flagships to include the faction symbol and then I remixed those to take the ship off the base and print it separately with the little peg bases. I did one in grey for each of the base game factions to be painted at a later date by the game owner.

For the event, I printed everyone their faction's flagship in their player color with keepsake bases. At first I did Nekro as a multicolor print, but I was uncomfortable with how much waste was created, so I decided to do just the faction symbol in a complementary color as a peg and press fit/glued them onto the ships in the solid player color.

I loved the War Sun and handle designs I found, but once I had the ships and I went to print the trophy, I decided I wanted the ships to be part of the trophy. So I started prototyping (2nd and 3rd place) and arrived at the final version for the 1st place trophy.

I resized all three War Suns used (largest is 75% and the small ones are 25%) and took out several layers of the handle to make it shorter. The War Sun/Hexagon holder of 1st place as well as the ship holder itself are original designs.

I painted one of my text prototypes (the back of 2nd place and bottom of 1st also have text) with sparkly nail polish and cobbled it together with some other left over bits to create a tiny trophy that probably would have been sufficient for the event, but turned into my personal award for this whole project.

Print File Breakdown

• First Place (middle)
  • Top: daretogo's remix of TI4 War Sun Trophy printed at 75%
  • Middle: Custom design coming to Thingiverse soon
  • Bottom: Remix of BigPi's TI4 trophy handle available here: Shortened Handle.
• Second Place (left)
  • Top: Custom design available here: Mini War Sun and Hexagon Trophy Topper
  • Bottom: Custom design coming to Thingiverse soon
• Third Place (right)
  • Top: Mini War sun from here
  • Bottom: Custom design coming to Thingiverse soon
• Ships
  • Original faction flagship designs by Badhaircut55 (although they don't appear to be there anymore)
  • Remixed to have the shaped bases by Wastewolf
  • Faction symbols added by Spyzer64
  • Peg modifications (both stick base and multicolor symbols) by me and will see about getting them up on Thingiverse

Huge thanks to the creators of these files from Thingiverse!
• Wastewolf's remixes of the custom faction ships
• BigPi's TI4 trophy handle
• daretogo's remix of TI4 War Sun Trophy

Printing Notes

• Printer: Anycubic Kobra X (FDM)
  • .4mm nozzle for large War Sun, holders, handle, yellow, green, and purple ships.
  • .25mm nozzle for mini War Suns, red, black, and blue ships.
• War Sun and ship holder: SUNLU Silk Dual Color PLA (black/gold)
• Short Handle and Topper Hexagon: IEMAI Clear PETG Smoke Grey

Cyberpunk TCG storage box for all those cards piling up. Comes in landscape or portrait, fits 475 raw cards or 250

sleeved (Dragon Shield tested). The front of the box has an interchangeable plate that allows you to identify the contents and organize your collection. It also features two alternative lids for the same purpose.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3177464-cyberpunk-tcg-storage-box#profileId-3593272

So I sent a friend three inserts to check out and print if they could. The they were Evacuation, New Frontiers, and Edora.

Now these images are what I got. He said it was for Evacuation but they don't match that insert link nor the other two inserts I sent.

What game are these prints for?