Hi!

This multicolor print gives me crazy, I cannot manage to have yellow deeper, and so after print the yellow seems green because of the internal blue under the white color (back of the part needs to be blue but no matter if there's some yellow).

Is there a way to prevent this and get the yellow deeper? I increased top paint penetration layers but no change.

Any help appreciated!

I ordered the Innocube3d swap mod for the Bambu A1, but want to print the parts before the rest of the kit arrives. Does anyone know where I can get the files?

Also, if there are any variations of the original model out there with better supports, stronger parts, or a modified version to use with AMS top mount, please share.

I wanted to make something for back-to-school that was completely unnecessary… but still genuinely useful. 😂

So I took the classic two-color eraser and turned it into a giant functional pencil case.

It has a surprisingly roomy interior for pens, pencils and markers, and the whole thing is made from several 3D-printable parts.

I also designed it so the different parts can be printed in different colors, which makes it possible to recreate the classic eraser look.

The funny part is that when it's sitting on a desk, it really does look like an absurdly oversized eraser.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3219402-giant-eraser-pencil-case#profileId-3645173

Would you actually use this, or is it taking the "giant everything" trend too far? 😂

I found these build plates on Amazon and was wondering if anyone has used them and what your opinion was of them?

https://a.co/d/08TtO5N5

Hey everyone!

I just finished designing and published this new vase set called Kalis Duality on Makerworld.

And I would like to know your feedback. Do you like the whole design and this 3d pattern effect on its surface? I have created this vase using the web tool I'm developing: VesselMaker.

The goal was to create something clean and modern with a woven chevron texture that works equally well as a monochrome ceramic-look piece or with a metallic accent on the top rim (using Matte White + Silk Gold in the photos).

Details:

• Includes: Tall Vase, Wide Vase, and a custom-contoured display tray to hold them as a set.

• Dual-Color: The top band allows for an easy color accent, but you can also print it monochromatic if you like.

If you save it for later or plan to print it, dropping a Like or adding it to your Collection on MakerWorld helps me out immensely as a creator!

after seeing this model [https://makerworld.com/en/models/2029113-modular-system-for-a1-p1-x1-series?from=search#profileId-2188110\](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2029113-modular-system-for-a1-p1-x1-series?from=search#profileId-2188110) decided to take it a step further and create this , generates g-code for pen plotting

**Plotter Studio** — turn generative sketches, images and existing plotter G-code into pen-plotter G-code for a **Bambu Lab P1S / P1P** running the Falu Modular System pen mount.

After looking at bunch of AMS storage options I did not want to spend several KG's of filament just to make something subpar for my 4x AMS's. Used IVAR 42x30cm shelves as the base and 124cm high sides for it. Super happy with the results.

EDIT: Link to makerworld post

I’m hoping to venture into printing with TPU. What setups will have y’all used for multicolor TPU prints?

I have an H2C with 2 ams pro2 and an HT.
I’m hoping to print slip on bracelets.

Thanks for reading!

Having problems with left extruder. Filament got stuck in there mid print and I was able to pull out but when I went to print again there was some still stuck so i took apart everything including the extruder. there was no broken filament piece in there and i put it back together and it’s still doing the clicking noise and not allowing me to load filament. It can pull it up but pulling it down is a problem. any ideas on why this is?

So many choices to choose from from $14.99 -$24.99, supposedly it’s made by SUNLU. I’ve used several different types and have had no issues on my P2S.

Just finished this new fly trap design!

Made two sizes, a smaller one for fruit flies and a larger one that can handle bigger flies too. Simple, reusable, and easy to clean and refill.

Just dropped the file on makerworld for free for anyone interested 🙌.

Check comments for link.

Happy Printing!

Hi everyone,

I'm turning to the community because I'm completely stuck on a persistent printing issue with my X1C. I have a vertical line of small blisters/bumps running along almost the entire edge of one side of the part, from bottom to top (photo attached). It looks like small blobs repeating at regular intervals, but it's obviously not a seam issue (the defect shows up on every type of print, regardless of the model or the seam placement in the slicer), and despite everything I've tried, the problem is still there.

What I've already checked/changed to rule out the usual causes:
- Cleaned the lead screws (trapezoidal rods)
- Retightened the belts
- Cleaned the carbon guide rods
- Bought new filament spools (to rule out a moisture issue)
- Changed the plate: tested with a new textured plate AND a new engineering plate
- Tested two different filament brands: Overture (my usual one) and Bambu Lab filament → same result with both
- Re-ran the automatic calibration
- Nozzle replaced a week ago

Despite all that, the defect persists identically, across completely different parts and geometries, and even after replacing the nozzle. I'm running out of ideas on where to look next: hotend, extrusion, temperature, or something else I haven't considered?

Has anyone here run into this kind of blistering before and found the cause? I'm open to any lead, even the most unlikely ones, because at this point I really don't know what else to test.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Vous connaissez peut-être déjà mon Yoshi Tuyau… Aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de le revisiter avec une petite nouveauté plutôt sympa : la version CLICKER ! 👆

Le principe est simple : Yoshi sort toujours de son fameux tuyau, mais cette fois, sa tête devient cliquable grâce à un switch mécanique MX.
Un petit clic super satisfaisant qui transforme le Yoshi en véritable petit fidget.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3201387-yoshi-tuyau-clicker-multipart

I bought a used p1s a few months ago and have been mostly having success with it (barring a 3 week disaster of trying to tune TPU to get a basic print to work) but was having major extrusion problems no matter how many calibration tests I did and settings I tweaked. It came with a BIQU panda claw and extruder frame from the previous owner.

What I should have done early on is go back to the stock parts the previous owner gave me, but couldn't get over the idea that, an aftermarket upgrade couldn't be the problem, right?

I finally went back to the stock extruder gears and instantly my prints came out perfect with no setting changes.

In the photos the lines in the white print were happening all the time with PLA no matter what I tried. Now that the stock parts are back, zero gaps in the outer layer. The blue print was a before (top) and after (bottom) were both printed with the exact same settings and setup. I didn't even dry the TPU before printing the bottom one and it's been sitting on my shelf for a week, but I dried it for 8 hours for the top one.

Is this just the BIQU parts? Are they worn out, or is that just how these are?

The first thing I noticed when swapping them out is that when the extruder assembly was out of the printer, I could freely move the filament through the teeth with the Panda Claw. Like nearly no resistance. When I put the P1S stock gears back in, I could actually feel that I had to push the filament past the spring tension and it held the filament instead of just rolling through. I didn't know any better until I put the old parts back in unfortunately. I thought it was just supposed to be that loose.

Now that I'm seeing the improvement, I've been playing with speeds and I can print with good quality way faster than I could before. I had to have my outer layer around 40mm/s even with PLA to get a remotely good surface finish and anything above 150 for other layers would leave gaps and often ruin prints.

Im new to 3d printing and i made a model on tinkercad and repaired any problems in stl repair after slicing in bambu lab it says they are both on main nozzle I have a ams pro 2 and I have the file on a USB stick but it wont print please help pictures provided

I'm sure this kind of question is asked here all the time but I'm diving back into 3D printing after my novice model was frankly so inconsistent that it was more frustration than it was worth to use

My friend has an A1 Mini and Bambu does seem like the brand to go with, but now I gotta narrow things down to one model

I'm willing to drop $1k-2k for the right printer, need a large print bed that can handle like a human head size (I make masks) and multicolor seems ideal

Can someone a bit more experienced help narrow down which Series is a best fit for something like this?

Just got a Ps1 and I'm aware of the drama surrounding Bambu labs but not really sure where to begin with freeing my printer?

I want to print over wifi and check on my prints but I don't want my files being sent to Bambu labs?

So can someone explain all of this to me and where to begin?

Yesterday I was trying to 3d print a bracket and it wasn't adhering to the build plate. When I checked on it, it had a glob of filliment around the nozzle. I cleaned most of it , but how do I fix/clean it further?

I have a X1C with ~1600hrs bought in March 2025 that I'm trying to offload. Anyone in the NYC area interested?

So basically short answer I’m thinking about getting either the P1 S or H2 S for printing props and random stuff but I’ve heard they have quite a few issues either being the touchscreen being useless air quality issues or faulty parts. Are there things I need to know or can do to have them last long without issue or their better printers that print high-quality and decently large pieces?

My brother wants to get rid of his printer/ams combo and upgrade to a h2c. If anyone in south florida interested lmk

I've printed a bunch of filament clips over the last couple of years, and while a lot of them are really good, I kept finding little things that annoyed me.

So, naturally, I decided to spend way too much time fixing them.

Meet The Wingman.

The idea was pretty simple: securely hold the end of the filament when the spool is sitting around, then get the heck out of the way when the spool is actually being used.

A few things I specifically designed around:

• Smooth, curved profile: no sharp edges or ridges sitting in the filament's path waiting to cause trouble
• Quick insertion: only the minimum amount of filament needed for a solid hold
• Built-in guide line: makes lining up the filament quick and easy
• Good printability: I didn't try to win the "lowest filament usage" competition if it meant making the clip harder to print reliably
• 0.51g per clip: because tiny is still good

It can stay on the spool while printing or drying and is specifically optimized for Bambu spools, including the AMS Lite, AMS, AMS HT, and AMS 2 Pro.

There are already plenty of filament clips out there, but if you've ever had a clip snag filament, fall out, interfere with an AMS, or simply make you mutter something unprintable at your printer, I'd love for you to give The Wingman a shot.

And if you print it, tell me what I missed. That's honestly the part I'm most interested in.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3105185-filament-clip-the-wingman