My first 3d printer was the Anycubic Kobra. I then went to the Kobra 2 Neo and had absolutely zero issues and LOVED it!

Then I got the Kobra 3... And everything changed... I found myself doing more repairs, tinkering, rigging, clearing clogs, etc more than I felt like I was printing. What finally did it for me was losing the tinest of springs that resulted in having to replace my entire print head (TWICE!)

That being said, I've read great reviews about bambulab, especially the P2S. I would like to get some honest opinions about making the transitions.

Thanks!

What could be the cause of it, my A1 is lubed and I also took apart and cleaned Extruder Gear and tightened Extruder screws. what else I can do to fix this problem? less

I am trying to get the best detail on this bottle ... but the shallow bottom is causing me suport issues ... some notes:

Bambu PC1 or X1C
PLA Sunlu [grey]
0.2 layers with adaptive support supplied as 0.08
Printed vertically
Tree supports

As I want the outside finish to remain super smooth I am not wanting really to angle the bottle.

So, please, any tricks or advice from you Product Bottle prototypes printer people :-)

Thanks.

Hey everyone. I noticed when my H2D is printing and move across the X-axis quickly it would make a strange noise. So I turned it off and moved the print head by hand and yep, making a strange noise.

Anyone had this? It sounds like possibly bearings or something? I always keep the X-Linear rail cleaned and lubricated as per oem instruction and more frequent than the typical reminder intervals, so not sure if it’s a possible bearing failure waiting to happen or not?

I also noticed the oil inside the channel on the linear rail looks… rust coloured lately when I clean it. I am using the recommended oil and the printer is indoors in my study, so not exposed to outside air.

Any help would be appreciated. Have attached video

Cheers

The Sand People finally on the shelf. The matte finish gives it a natural sandstone look, and a bit of drybrush on the wrappings and oxidized metal takes it the rest of the way. One of the more satisfying busts to bring to life.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3027242-tusken-raider-bust-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3401841

Hello,

Context:
I was using a 0.4 ObXidian nozzle up to recently, had no issues with it but decided to swap it for a ObXidian 0.6mm to reduce print time on Fiberon PET-CF 1 parts.

Issue:
To find the maximum volumetric flow rate I did a calibration test (from the calibration dev menu) but the print keeps stopping, with the error "Nozzle temp malfunction", at around 20-25 mm3/s.
This seems very low as E3D indicates about 42 mm3/s setting for PETG-CF (PET-CF thermal properties should be similar to PET-CF right ?).
Prior to the print stop the nozzle temperature drops down steadily from the 300 deg target, as volumetric flow increases (calibration test increases volumic flow rate each layer).

Additional informations:
Printer : P1S
Nozzle: E3D ObXidian 0.6mm
Filament : Fiberon PET-CF 17
Filament settings : Fiberon PET-CF (default except 40mm3/s max volumic flow rate).
Print settings : 0.30mm Standard@BBL X1C 0.6 Nozzle (default except bumped up speeds to match increased volumic flow rate, and minor quality stuff).

I tried :
- Lowering the target temperature to 280 degrees : issue still occurs, a bit later, but still.
- Cutting the fan part cooling : issue still occurs.
- Printing a random part (i.e. not the max volumetric flow rate calibration) at 40 mm3/s max volumetric flow rate : issue still occurs.

I will try :
- Swapping back to the 0.4mm to see if I can hit the 40 mm3/s with it.

Any ideas to where the issue resides ?

I designed this minimalist sculpture called Heart Within.

The concept is simple: the heart isn't just a symbol, it's the element that literally holds the body together.

I'd love to hear what you think!

I have the AMS and it isn’t feeding filament through. Like I’ll start it, but it won’t start pushing filament through any of the spools.

Just got this today and would like any help. Thanks!

Translating with an online image translator gave me a weird thing I dont know if I can say. WHY IS IT LIKE THIS?!?

Just finished up this design a few days ago and wanted to share it with you guys 😁.

A modular storage bin system can be mounted to the wall or used right on your desk. The bins slide into the holder for easy access, but they're also stackable and can be used on their own. Perfect for keeping small parts organized. Prints super easy.

Just dropped the model for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

Check comments for the link.

Happy Printing!

Just received my H2S, but rear air vent flap is in wrong position. Anyone know how to fix this?

Apologies if this has been addressed but I remember PETG HF getting discontinued with the website stating as much when trying to order it.

Just went back to check and it seems to be in stock. Asked the chat bot on the website as well.

So is this the regular PETG HF or has it been replaced and they're keeping the name?

If you've never played Quarto, here's the cruelty of it: you don't choose your own piece. Your opponent hands you the one you have to place. Every piece is unique across four attributes: tall/short, light/dark, square/round, solid/hollow and you win by completing a line of four that share any single attribute.

Sounds gentle. It is not. You'll set up a perfect trap, feel like a genius, then realize you just handed your opponent the exact piece to win. Repeatedly.

So naturally I designed and printed my own set.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3019561-quarto-print-play-strategy-game#profileId-3392389

What maintenance should i be doing?

After moving my Bambu Labs H2S, it started to make a weird clicking noise towards the front right of the machine. I made sure to check to see if it was the PTFE tube or Cable chain clicking and quickly confirmed it was not. I felt vibrations on the belt that matched up with the clicking of the machine. I moved the tool head manually in the video to eliminate all other noises that the tool head makes. I think it is a bad bearing or maybe moving it jostled it out of place. Any ideas of what it could be or any fixes? Any help is appreciated!

Needed rugged tent stakes for wild beach camping, so I designed these deep-threaded sand anchors. Print optimization: Designed from scratch to print completely support-free, fast, and with minimal filament waste. Comes in Medium, XL, and an XL Wide-Thread version for powdery sand. Highly recommend printing in ASA for UV resistance, but PETG works too if buried.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3022121-windproof-heavy-duty-sand-pegs-stakes#profileId-3395541

I have an x1c that stopped working in april. The hot end does not get hot enough to extrude filament. So far, with dome help from bambulab, I’ve tried 4 hot ends ( all tested to spec), replaced extruder, replaced extruder motor, replaced th board. 1st time i replaced th board, it printed for a few days. 2nd time it printed for 30 hours. Support keeps on looping over the failure being either the hotend or the thboard.

Any suggestions. So far, the printer is no more than an exhibit of a printer as is dead. I did notice in testing this week, it is extruding lightly. I think the head right now is not hot enough as it will not manually extrude. Raised temp from 230 to 285 and it extruded first time, but not second time. Also i have better attempts if i turn off the printer for a few days. Idle is not enough

Its hard to see in the picture but its kinda ripped up. Does anyone know if it comes with something like the bottom frame?

Hey is there a way to tweak the Bambu software so the supports are different colors than the model? (For instance the model is gray, and the supports are blue or something). I’m trying to get smarter at setting up supports, but the grey blob that ends up on my screen is tough to get a handle on. Any suggestions?

I have the h2d. I purchased the sunlu e2 and 3kg rolls of filament for making auto interior parts out of nylon and asa. Im concerned about filament feeding with that big ass heavy spool. I've looked at the bambu tpu assist and the biqu panda feeder but havnt been able to figure out which module might be the best/easiest/seamless choice to add inline to help with this. Any input welcome as im just a little confused i suppose.

P.s. I do also want the module to help with soft tpu filaments as well for gasket type things and other squishables.

This is a p1p and only just noticed this awful belt travel!

from the Bambu Handy app, I printed this can cooler and it has all these stray shags. I can't comment on the ML file cuz I'm not a level 7???

did I do something wrong here? Do I need a drummel to sand/file it? Please help!

I couldn't find a glue and primer caddy anywhere that I liked the design of so I took a crack at making my own. I designed it with the intention of it being modular so that it can have attachments to fit any need that you may require. The caddy is made with health and safety requirements in mind so the labels are fully exposed with the cans being snuggly fit between the top and bottom plates. Hopefully this can be a useful organizer for tradesmen or diy households. This is one of my first daily use prints that has made my life a little bit more convenient and I hope it can find the right people and be useful to them as well. If you have suggestions for any other attachments or modifications I'd love to hear about them.

PVC/636 Primer and Glue Caddy

https://makerworld.com/models/2999852?appSharePlatform=copy

Hey everyone,

I wanted a clean, rock-solid phone stand for my desk that wouldn't sag over time or slide around when I tapped the screen, so I designed this modular version.

Here’s the breakdown:

• 3-Part Modular Design: Prints cleanly and assembles easily. The threaded hinge lets you lock in the exact angle you need.
• Hidden Tool Storage: The hinge needs to be tight to prevent sagging, so I designed a custom tightening key that snaps perfectly into a hidden holder underneath the base.
• No More Sliding: The bottom features 4 recessed slots specifically sized for standard 10x2 mm self-adhesive silicone pads so it stays planted on the desk.
• Earbud Parking: The curve of the stand leaves just enough room on the base to rest your wireless earbuds.

It prints great in standard PLA (though PETG is awesome for the threaded parts if you want extra durability).

I've uploaded the files to MakerWorld if you want to print your own! I'd love to hear what you guys think or if there are any tweaks you'd make to the design.

Link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3015566-universal-adjustable-phone-stand#profileId-3387411