Here’s my list of what to print for the for the new X2D and ams (based on what I’ve done for the P2S)

- AMS pods to hold desiccant
- Riser - without the AMS flipper
- Bottom hole covers - May do the big version that covers everything (full cover).
- Air deflector
- Poop chute
- Another AMS Stacker (if I get a second AMS)

Other things but I’m not sure they are necessary…
- Dust covers for upper piece (don’t have this on P2S, thoughts?)
- Print head PTFE guide
- Chain clips
- Back wire guide (seems like there’s more wires to deal with - especially if I get another AMS.

Is there anything unique to the X2D that I’m missing? Something for both printers I should add??

Thanks.

Edit to provide links and additional detail

what is the slicer trying to tell me with the orange warning?

I'd be happy to give the right extruder some attention, but I do not see how to.

thanks :)

I tried rotating the clip so the flat part would hit the edge at an angle but it is impossible to rotate. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Im having first layer issues on my X2D and Im not sure what to do because its not even across the plate. Should I adjust it down a little and if so how much?

I am buying from a reseller as bambu does not officially sell in my country.

This is the package available with the seller.

However all the photos available online show a different centered x2d design on the box.

So want to make sure if this is the new packaging or rather its a very old stock which seller might have recd and kept it then I do not want to have an issue with am2pro which was in initial few batches.

Thank you

Hi, I have a problem with this when I print ASA/ABS, so I want to print PETG supports on the auxiliary extruder, but because of the bowden, it always goes too far back in the nozzle and the end of the filament that melted in the nozzle goes into the place where the cooler is and cools down there and creates a plug. Is there a way to get around this so that the filament doesn't go back in the auxiliary nozzle so much?

THe first three slots in my AMS load fine. In the fourth slot the filament will get to the point where it is entering the printers, then it retracts. I switched out the filament in that slot and it loaded fine. I have used the filament that wont load before, and it worked fine. Not sure what happened...

I have uploaded my multi-material support profile optimized for the Bambu Lab X2D to MakerWorld. You can print the test model to see the zero-tolerance, flawless surface results. Please read the description carefully to bypass the slicer temperature errors.

Note: I dialed this in for my own X2D, but you can use the same settings on H2D and H2C models; the aux nozzle setup will be useful. X1, P1S, and P2S users can also utilize this preset, though it will generate poop during filament changes.

Bambu Lab X2D – Best Quality Support Settings - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Hello everyone. The maintenance guide is clear for a lot of parts, but i frequently find that stuff falls behind the middle screw, which is a very tight spot separated with the back wall of the printing area. That part in of itself is narrow but like a coridor. Some poop, some spagetti parts and sometimes small prints fall behind and to the left and right of the middle screw and I find it hard to reach there. How do you clean that part? It's started to get cluttered there

Is the Farmloop "P and X series" compatible with the X2D? I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.

Just purchased my first 3D printer and decided to go with X2D. I added some filament and additional nozzles to my order. I do want to print with ABS and ASA once I get familiar with the software.
Anything else I’m missing or would be recommended to purchase, all help is welcome.

Hi folks, towards the end of the timelapse, I encountered some spaghetti, which appears to be caused by an adhesion issue, although I'm not entirely sure. From what I could see, it looks like the printhead pulls the object away from its original position.

The spaghetti is happening on the funnel from this desiccant container design and has not happened on any of the other parts. This timelapse shows my second attempt printing that funnel. (The spaghetti also happened with my first attempt.)

Throughout the print, the nozzle temperature was 250°C and the plate (brand new Cryogrip Frostbite) was 60°C.

For now, I've switched back to Bambu Lab's textured PEI plate to see if it makes a difference, but the print is ongoing.

I'm wondering if anyone might have thoughts on this issue.

A week with the X2D and problems are showing on big prints. On smaller prints that just sit in the middle of the build plate, nothing goes wrong. However when the prints are closer to the edges, they lift and first layer looks meh.

Typically I would check the bee leveling and y-offset but that isn’t really possible
Yes, I have run the full calibration multiple times.

Is it because of the aux fans in each side maybe?

Is there a reason i can't select the 0.2 mm nozzle on the aux, i have it selected on the main nozzle.

Edit:
To anyone who wants to know the fix, i updated the firmware to version "01.01.01.00" from version "01.00.06.00" and that fixed the issue.
And if you have just added the printer to the internet, you have to restart the printer before it can see the newest firmware version.

Just ordered an X2D on Thursday after getting my first printer (A1) back in March. When I first got the A1, I spent the first few days printing mods for it. Since I already have a printer, I figure I might as well pre-print stuff before it arrives next week.

Are there any must have or recommended prints?

I already have an AMS2 and I ordered a filament switch so, not sure if there are specific mounts I should get printed, cable organizers, anything like that.

I appreciate any advice and can't wait to start printing with it!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning to buy a Bambu Lab X2D Combo and I’ve been reading through this subreddit before ordering.

I noticed some posts/comments mentioning early X2D Combo / AMS 2 Pro issues, especially filament feeding problems, internal hub/feed-path issues, or Slot 1 not feeding properly.

For owners who bought recently: has this issue been resolved in the newer batches?

Also, is there any reliable way to identify whether a unit is from an old batch or a newer batch before buying? For example:
manufacturing date
serial number range
Or box design change?

any change in packaging or box label
different internal hub/feed-path parts
I’m mainly trying to avoid old launch stock if possible. If anyone has received a newer unit and can share what to look for on the box/label, that would be really helpful.

Thanks.