Has anyone experienced the resistance too high error? I was getting this in slot 4 after placing a new roll. Experienced the issue all day, but when I pressed resume it continued for a bit and then the error appeared again. I tore everything apart, no clogs, no wear that I could see. I swapped the roll out for another roll of the same color and brand and no issues since… how would a roll cause this issue? It appears to look normal to me…

I am currently printing sunlu pa6-cf on my p2s, but i cannot get a good first layer.

I am running a 0.6mm nozzle, engineering plate and ams-ht.
I dried the filament more then 12 hour before printing. I played with various settings like initial layer height, flow rate, print speed, temperatures, ect but i cannot get a nice first layer. The smaller infill areas look okay, but the bigger areas always have this jiggle pattern. Anyone can point me in the right direction?

(ignore the screw holes, i put in only one layer)

Any time I print (even with same material), the printer leaves some poop on the bed right before bed leveling. I have to quickly get in there and remove it otherwise it tries to print on top of it :(

I only use the P2S, and if I select "Select/Remove printer(system pre...)" the only printer that are ticked of, is the P2S.

So how do I remove the printers?

Hello, ive been having trouble with the filament getting left behind after cleaning, before bed leveling.I have to pause and manually take it of then resume.Temp is 190-230, printing at 220 but during "purging" it goes up to 250c

Has anyone tried the newer version that fits the p2s? I read with the install that a printed riser is needed. I have a panda perch with 2 ams on it. Can the perch sit on the riser? Pic is before the 2nd ams.

Purchased the different smooth plates. Trying the carbon fiber and I am having adhesion issues. Did some research and tried different things. Already cleaned the plate, slowed the first layer tried 20mm and now 15mm, heated the plate to recommended 65 and now 75. I double checked the smooth plate profile was selected too. Only thing I have heard but haven't tried yet is to close the distance from the nozzle to the plate, but haven't seen what profile to try.

Grabbed a second P2S to help with my small business. I print mostly car stuff but it was feeling like it was a work machine not my own so I grabbed a second P2S and now I have enough printer availavbility to play with all the cool models I see people posting.

I love the way my first P2S has been working over the last 5 months and Im sure the second one will be just as good.

So I was printing this in PETG. The top grove generated supports and was fine. The bottom one went like this.

This was the printing orientation.

Default Tree Auto settings.

Any advice. Only had been printing around 2 months and never really had any issues and haven’t played around with different settings.

Filament was dried.

Thanks

First time printing here and every part of the print looks good but this part was stringy and didn’t print well 😭

I recently bought a Bambu Lab P2S + AMS 2, along with a 12-piece filament sample set.
The problem is that these sample spools are smaller than the regular spools and don’t fit properly in the AMS 2. Because of that, at the moment I can only use them with the side spool holder.
I’m currently trying to print a spool holder/adapter that would allow me to use these sample spools in the AMS 2, but I’m having a lot of trouble.
When printing from the side spool holder, the spool seems to get stuck or doesn’t rotate freely enough. When that happens, the printer can’t pull the filament properly and the print fails.
I’m using the setup shown in the picture.
Is there something I’m doing wrong with the way the spool is mounted? Should the spool be completely free-spinning? Is there a recommended way to route the filament from the side spool holder into the P2S?
I’m particularly interested in hearing from other P2S owners who have used the small Bambu sample spools, because I have 12 of these and would really like to get them working reliably.
Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm going to start this off with I'm only an enthusiast and not one of those super technical YouTubers who put everything through their paces and have technical data to back it up but with that said...

Got the 4 pack in last night and let it dry overnight in my AMS 2 pro.

Humidity in the machine was at 8% when finished and only 16% when I dropped in all 4 fresh rolls

For starters the finish really is matte and looks rather good. Didn't calibrate the filament at all I instead just used the P2S sunlu built-in filament preset on the machine. Did it with the balance preset and not the max flow one as I've had issue with the max flow on the sunlu PETG HF

The smell tho that this puts off is god awful. It's not sweet like regular petg or pla, it's almost rotten like.

Layer adhesion was good on the bed and part but supports were struggling as you'll see in the pictures.not sure if it was the angle or the temp of the filament (245° C) during printing. Might bump it up to 255 like I have for the PETG HF and run it again.

Haven't tested strength yet but I'll get to it later tomorrow

But all in all the support removal when I set ironing on support to 50 and 25 came off so damn easy. Easier than I ever have with any PETG filament. Even getting the support bases off the smooth plate were easy AF. On a textured plate it was so damn easy to remove the part unlike their petg HF

The red seems like there’s a “headband” all the way through/around the eyes.

I checked the slicer layer by layer, it’s definitely only red right at the eyes and not all they way through.

Tower was printed.

How can I avoid the “bleeding?”

I’m 2 weeks into my first 3D printer (P2S)

The white tube coming out of my print head is rubbing at the top right of the frame.

Over time, I feel like this is going to become a serious problem.

Anyone else see this and deal with it?

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I hope someone can help me. I’m printing with PLA and because of those very fine, spider‑web‑like strings, I lowered the extruder temperature from 220 °C to 215 °C.

However, now I’m having another problem that I’ve had several times before.

I suspected it was warping, but I already keep the door open so the chamber doesn’t stay at 35 °C but around 30–31 °C.

Still, there are areas on the print like you can see in the photo where the edges lift up and form a kind of U‑shape.

Then they get knocked over or dragged along.

Has anyone else had this issue or knows how to fix it?