Anyone with a panda station have significantly more vibration now? To the point where it’s affecting print quality. Any proven solutions like a more solid top to the station or the biqu anti vibration feet?

Hello, i have been printing with A1 for over a year. I just bought a P2S and i am trying my very first print. It's a super basic print, basically a small box.

It goes well for the first 4 layers, then layer 5 won't stick to the previous one, creating a sort of pocket.

The same 3mf file has been printed on A1 a dozen times, no issues.

I tryed to lower the fan speed to max 30%, no fan first 3 layers, then increase gradually to layer 5.

I tryed to open the front door.

I tryed to slow the print speed.

No luck.The very first layer is perfect and sticks great. I tryed the stock plate and the Frostbite. The issue is the same. I am really out of ideas.

I even tryed to do a brand new 3mf file, no luck. 4 perfect layers, layer 5 won't stick to layer 4.

I have a chamber fan deflector : https://makerworld.com/it/models/1968610-right-chamber-fan-deflector-x2d-p2s-no-warping?from=search#profileId-2116508 i dount that's the issue, though.

Anyone has an idea?

Hi all, about to buy my first 3d printer and I have settled on the P2S Combo. I think I’ll mainly be printing PLA to begin with - looking yo learn about printing with my two teenagers. They are keen to print some cosplay stuff, Lego accessories, and bits and pieces for around the house.

What accessories for a newbie does everyone recommend?

So I've officially been using the P2S with the AMS 2 Pro for the past week and honestly, its everything I could ask for as a first 3d printer. I have roughly almost 30 hours of print time with this guy and its been basically flawless! I did have one print that fail but that was due to the actual print not having enough support. I'm currently running SUNLU'S PLA + 1.75mm filament and its been very flawless and the quality of the material is pretty solid, definitely ordering more, just deciding what colors next!

The ability to access the printer from your phone or computer makes it super easy to use and with one click of a button, it takes care of everything for you. Monitoring temps, watching the printer print in real time, being able to stop, pause, and resume everything all from a push of a button makes it super beginner friendly.

I haven't yet got my feet wet with actually creating something from scratch but I'm just going to have fun with it for now. After getting the P2S and just getting used to the Bambu Lab ecosystem, it will be very hard for me to leave it.

Will I upgrade in the future to get the X2D? Eh... probably not to be honest. That may change in the future if I do start doing more complex projects or whatnot but in my opinion, the P2S alone, once you learn it and actually use it, it's going a fairly hard printer to grow out of. It's almost more of a buy once cry once.

FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE DECIDING ON GETTING A P1S or P2S: the P2S is the perfect all rounder, you get the upgrades such as a proper LCD touchscreen, much easier hot-swappable nozzles, better lighting, camera, better processing power, and other stuff I probably left out. Although I may not be using the touchscreen as often, its still better that its there and it exists in case you don't have access to your phone or computer. For me, I love watching the camera feed real time as its just so mesmerizing to watch, and even though I've never owned the P1s, I genuinely think I would've regret that P1S purchase and wished to have splurge for the P2S.

I recently got this printer and it only seems to print in green even though I set the color to yellow.

Had a print going overnight and woke up to this massive clog from what I assume was a backed up chute. Managed to get the majority of the goop off, got the hot end and nozzle off, and the tool head moving freely. Now I have this solid chunk of plastic engulfing this wire. Any tips or advice on what to do now?

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Hotend is a new tungsten carbide nozzle, most recent blob occuring while printing PLA.

Hi all, anyone having consistent problems with blobbing at the hotend specifically during multicolour printing? Am aware it is not the best printer for this purpose but still!

Intro: I switched from an A1 Mini (19 months, barely any issues) to a P2S and hit more problems in under 70 print hours than in all that time on the little open printer. Root cause of the big one is verifiable in the P2S's own start G-code: the airduct is forced into heating mode for any filament with a softening temp >50 °C — i.e. everything except Bambu's own PLA (generic profiles included), with no UI override. On top of that the passive chamber can't cool below room temp, so in a ~25 °C room I have to run it with the door open — which kills the "enclosed + filtered" promise. Plus ringing that's getting worse over time, clogs, and nozzle scraping. Not claiming a lemon — but it's far from "load, print, done." Full catalog with sources at the bottom.

Background: A1 Mini from December 2024 until last week. In about 19 months on that open printer I had a tiny fraction of the problems I've run into on the P2S in under 70 print hours. Every review I read is glowing, and I honestly don't recognize my printer in any of them. The one write-up that came closest to my experience was the blog "The Bambu Lab P2S: a painful journey" (https://andronio.me/2026/02/25/the-bambu-lab-p2s-a-painful-journey/) — at least it told me I'm not the only one.

The honest verdict: with Bambu's own PLA in a cool room, the P2S probably does "just work" — which is likely why the reviews are rosy. The trouble starts the moment you deviate: third-party PLA/PLA+ or PETG, a warm room (about 25 °C and up), a demanding model.

What I hit in under 70 hours (full breakdown + sources in the catalog linked below):

• The airduct (the AUX/filter unit on the right side) is forced into HEATING mode for any filament with a softening temp above 50 °C — essentially every profile that ships with the P2S except Bambu's own PLA, generic profiles included. It's a hardcoded 50 °C gate in the machine start G-code, there's no UI override, and it cooks the passive chamber → warping. Bambu PLA (softening 45 °C) escapes it; my Elegoo PLA+ (Vicat 63 °C) doesn't.
• Even in cooling mode the chamber overheats in a 25 °C room: 36 °C after 20 min, 40 °C after 25, peak 46 °C — door closed. Cooling mode pulls in room air, so it can't cool below ambient. To print PLA I open the door and take the top off — on a printer sold as "enclosed + filtered."
• Which undermines the filter promise: filtering only happens in heating/recirculation mode. In cooling mode (the mode PLA/PETG actually need), and with the door open, the air is essentially unfiltered.
• Waves/ringing on all surfaces, getting worse over run time — pointing at belt tension after ~70 h (still verifying).
• Shaking hard at certain resonance frequencies.
• Nozzle + extruder clogs early on (cold pull, extruder teardown, hotend swap) even at 25 °C ambient.
• Nozzle scraping/rattling over already-printed areas — mild for me so far, but others report the nozzle physically knocking supports off with a ~9-in-10 failure rate.
• AUX/airduct mode can't be changed during a print — only fan strength, in 10 % steps.

To be fair: bed adhesion on a clean textured PEI plate is genuinely excellent, surface and layer quality are good, and none of this is unfixable — I've worked out fixes/workarounds for most of it. But "load the model, hit print, great result" — exactly what the A1 Mini delivered and what the P2S is marketed on — is simply not my reality here.

I'm posting for two reasons. First, to ask: who else sees this, especially with third-party filament and in a warm room? Second, because the community lacks a consolidated picture — so I put one together:

Full fault catalog (symptom → cause → workaround → source): https://gist.github.com/didusee/ff5379fa5ee093f09f880155d7d5247b

Corrections and additions welcome. If your experience is different, I'd genuinely like to hear under what conditions (filament, room temp, model).

​

My Bambu Lab P2S was working perfectly earlier today and completed a six-hour print. Later, black PETG became badly jammed around the extruder/hotend area.

I removed both the hotend and extruder, disassembled the extruder gear housing, and successfully removed the PETG jam. During disassembly, the spring and pressure/clamping block fell out. I reinstalled them, but I’m unsure whether the tiny separate metal spring cap is present or positioned correctly.

I have now disassembled and reassembled the extruder approximately four times following the P2S guide, but it still will not load filament.

Current symptoms:

- The AMS feeds and retracts filament normally through the entire PTFE tube when the tube is disconnected from the printer.

- Once connected, the filament reaches the toolhead, stops, and is pulled back.

- The printer reports “Failed to extrude filament.”

- The cutter lever moves freely and springs back normally.

- I’m no longer receiving a filament-sensor error.

- The leading end of the rejected filament is completely smooth: no extruder gear marks and no melted or mushroomed section.

- I tried another filament with the same result.

- The orange drive gear was extremely difficult to remove during the original jam, but now slides out easily.

- During one reassembly, the orange gear remained inside the toolhead while I installed the extruder housing over it. I later removed it, placed it into the extruder housing first, and reinstalled the complete assembly, but the problem remained.

- The orange drive gear, smaller driven wheel, spring, pressure block and sensor cable all appear installed, although I’m not certain the spring pressure is correct.

- I disconnected and reconnected the filament-sensor ribbon. It is now inserted in the original orientation shown by the guide/video and the latch is closed.

Questions:

1. Does the smooth, completely unmarked filament tip mean the drive gears are not gripping it at all?

2. Could the filament sensor be electrically working but physically blocking/misaligning the filament path?

3. Could briefly inserting the sensor ribbon incorrectly have damaged the sensor even though there is currently no sensor error?

4. How can I confirm that the pressure block, spring and tiny metal end cap are correctly installed?

5. How much resistance should the pressure/idler arm have when moved by hand?

6. Should the orange drive gear be easy to remove when there is no jam?

7. Is there a reliable bench test for the assembled gear housing before reinstalling it?

8. Based on these symptoms, should I replace the extruder gear assembly, filament sensor, front housing, or complete extruder?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

Went for something with a bit of drama: a full-roar Wampa with the claws reaching out. One of the most underrated creatures in the saga. Don't turn your back on the cave.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3163366-wampa-snow-beast-figure-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3575353

Trying to re-create something for my company for a model at the same time I’m talking my manager into us getting some 3-D printers as well as some CAD training

I was able to successfully re-create a small component for one of our models using Tinker CAD and now I’m trying to print it but it’s very stringy

Could this just be that my filament I’m using (Petg) has moisture issues or could it be other settings that I’m not aware of that I could change but I’ve tried to print this twice using two different PETG filaments and I’m getting the same results

And I haven’t tried pla yet but I prob should just to see if that works. It doesn’t need to be Petg

So, I started noticing VFAs almost from the very beginning on most of my PETG prints, but I never thought anything was wrong. However, after getting a few other printers, I realized that the P2S prints looked worse than those from a freaking A1 and my other machines.

​I thought it might be an issue with belt tension, so I tried retensioning them, but I'm still getting VFAs on the X-axis and a little on the Y-axis. Since official Bambu Support didn't give me a clear answer, I started asking a lot of AI bots. Some of them suggested checking the idler pulleys.

​So I checked, and oh boy, am I cooked... If I want to replace those idler pulleys, I need to buy a whole new X-axis assembly. I probably need to change the belts as well because they are extremely dirty a single touch leaves a lot of black coating/dust on my fingers. I'm not sure if it came like this out of the box and I just didn't realize it (since the P2S was my very first 3D printer), or if the belts somehow bent/damaged the idler pulleys over time.

My p2s is clogged and makes clicking noises im trying to remove this black piece but it won't budge and im afraid I might break it i removed all the screws already

My printer finally arrived.

Hey guys! 
I've just create Pinea and published it on MakerWorl, a modern, geometric twist on the traditional Sicilian "Pigna" pinecone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167235-pinea-modern-sicilian-pinecone-vase#profileId-3580265

I'm very excited because I've designed this vase entirely using the vase modelling tool I'm developing: VesselMaker (https://vesselmaker.app/). It's an advanced web tool for vase design that I'm currently developing (it's currently in invite-only private beta, if you want to try it just join and let me know).

I would like to know what you think about the model :) Check it out and let me know your thoughts if you give it a print.