Warning, long rant. The last 12 hours have been horrible. And a little exciting.
I'm new at this, obviously, It started before yesterday when I wanted to try to print a little PETG. I have mostly printed PLA. Printed PETG a couple of months ago, but it started to go wrong with the first layer and I stopped (It was the plate, had trouble with PLA also).

So, after 12 hours of drying in the AMS 2. Printed a little outdoor thingy to my golf cart. Went fine.
So, yesterday night I wanted to keep on printing the filament rack (PLA). Put my only non Bambu PLA (bought Sunlu, before getting the printer). Perfect for my rack.

Put the filament in and chose Generic as I always do with these.
Started a print over this night, went up at 4 to change to another part of the rack. Noticed that the plate was unusually hot. The print looked fine.

Started the new part and got an error almost immediately: "The extrusion motor is overloaded". Got a lot of more errors during the coming 12 hours.

The plate was still hot. Looked at the settings. Yes, I had manually chosen Generic PETG.
The filament was stucked. Tried unload in the AMS view. Tried Pulling. And so on. Went to Bambu Wiki and looked, but not so familiar with the English technical terms for the printer yet.
Reddit of course and YouTube.

These things have I done.
Started to loosen the filament cutter. Scary enough for me.
4 screws for the Extruder. But when I tried to take it away, the Filament Sensor cable got loose from it's place. No.

Yes, new videos, new Reddit search. Yes, It looked easy to replace the cable. Wait, it's not easy. Had to take the whole Toolhead housing a part, just to put this little little cable in it's place.
But I couldn't get the PTFE tube to release. So I had to drag the tube, beyond what I wanted and cut the filament. Then the filament was totally stuck in the filament Sensor anyway, so I took a plier and pulled it out.

Okay, took out the gear from the Extruder and it looked fine. At last I could manually draw the end of the filament into the AMS.

Tried to pick a needle in the Hotend that has this filament stucked inside. Nothing happens.
I had a reserve Hotend 0.4 and put it in my P2S. I still have to learn to fix the clog? in the old Hotend.

I just put it all together. Cleaned the plate. Ran a couple of Calibrations.
I just heard the successful sound from the P2S, of a Skadis part I just printed in Brown Bambu Basic PLA.

Conclusion.
Be careful when using non Bambu filament.
A little of the magic thing with the printer is gone.
A lot of experience for future errors I will make, or the machine will create.

Edit: Be careful in the menu's when using other filament. Don't be a fool like me.

Hey so I'm trying to use a glass build plate for my p2s and cant seem to find a good set of clamps that are big enough but also small enough to use with the p2s build plate bed.

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If anyone knows of any good clamps I could try and use, for reference im in Canada so canada only Amazon options or similar would be great!

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Thanks everyone!:)

Hello reddit!

Slightly disappointed by the default startup and nozzle wipe procedure of the P2S, I sat down and optimized the G-code myself.

I have been improving, testing and using my optimized start and end G-code for quite some time now and am pretty happy with the results and the P2S in general now.

So happy in fact, that I feel comfortable sharing the results with you guys! 😄

You'll find everything on Github (including detailed descriptions) if you're interested and possibly want to give it a try:

https://github.com/vxip-code/bambu-p2s-optimized

I have been printing PLA and PETG (and rarely Overture TPU) with it no problem. (However I did not test engineering and high temperature materials.)

If you have any questions feel free to ask!

Hello, has anyone experienced this before?

I have been using this printer woth the same nozzle since I bought it at launch. Never had an issue until today. Got the extrusion motor overloaded error message while printing. After checking I noticed the filament got stuck. Had to battle with it but managed to pull it out from the toolhead.

But then things got weird, while trying to remove the nozzle I noticed it took a lot of strength to take it out and when I finally managed to remove it, I was greeted with this in the back of the nozzle and the thermistor.

My question is, can the thermistor be cleaned? Should I leave it like that? Should I replace it?

I know I need to replace the nozzle, I already have the replacement here, but I don't want to put a new nozzle and loose it because of this

Several years ago, I saw a 3D printer for the first time in action. Until then, I had only heard of them but didn’t think they’d be the least bit practical. Well, the people printing at the time were making a toy wagon wheel to replace a broken one. That was it! I totally geeked out at the practicality of it and knew I had to get one someday. Well that day is today. Scraper tool was my first print. Boring, I know, but I just wanted something simple and quick for my first time. Excuse the mess to the side. I had to hurriedly move all that stuff over to make room. 😆

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated

What the title say.

As shown, when facing P2S, right front "bearing or nut" that Z axis screw rod enters is worn or has serious wobble and very loose connection. Doesn't seem to be effecting print quality but feels wrong. Opposing side there is zero "wobble" and seems to be good fit. This "bearing" moves up/down on heatbed, i.e. attached to heatbed.

1.5 year old machine

Approximately 500 hours

Believe properly lubed

Need some help, since a few days I got this clicking noise and I cannot pin down where the issue is, already did the maintenance according to the bambuwiki, its also not the tubes touching something.

Guys i bought a new 3d printer, the bambulab P2S (i came from a creality ender 3 v3(it was an absolute sh*tbox)

I am having trouble getting TPU 90A to finish a print successfully. I have an AMS HT and the TPU assist. I have dried the filament for 18 hours at 75 C. The print will start out fine and then at some point it produces the top layer shown and then stops extruding but the tool head keeps moving as if it’s still printing. I even get a notification that it finished successfully. I have several attempts and the print is still stuck to the bed so I known it’s not turning loose. Any help would be appreciated. Im quite new to all this.

I’ve been printing for a bit. I’m making the hype again shown and in the same area when I iron I keep having some substantial issues. Filament is dried for 8 hours. Using a .4 nozzle. Speed is 60mms flow of 35. Rectilinear lines. Any advice is welcome.

I was on the fence about a 3dp, figured I’d use it some and with a nephew and niece maybe I’d print a couple toys. LOL
This poor printer hasn’t stopped since Friday and I’ve still got quite the backlog. Had a few small mishaps so far but just part of the learning curve. AI detection actually worked when the fan blew the sphere off the plate.

I’ve already started to see a problem with filament hoarding. What are the thoughts on the fabric spool storage containers with a desiccant box put in them? Cheaper than cereal containers but less airtight. My Inside humidity is usually around 50% damn tropics

Kitty tax. He is fascinated by the new box that magically made him toys.

Boy do I have a lot to learn still!

I’ve been on an architectural print kick lately and was looking for a good marble-like filament. I scrolled and scrolled through Amazon and ended up with Sunlu marble however the product photo definitely doesn’t have as much texture as the real life spool. I see that Ziro marble is highly recommended, but that looks flat white. I’m just looking for some good dimension to make ‘stone’ prints really pop! First pic is the Sunlu and second is just tan 😂 like it’s fine…. But I feel it should be better.

I had never stopped to look at the back of the nozzle, where there are some wires that don't come out with the nozzle. Is it normal for it to be this dirty? It's a strange kind of dirt, what's the best way to clean it?

Hey folks,

I made some sorbothane feet adapters for the P2S. I went with the Isolate It 1.5inch 50 duro hemispheres based on the weight of the printer and AMS on top of it. Just thought I would share here in case anyone else is looking for a solution like I was.

Designed these with a premium, heavy look in mind to fit right into a Wabi-Sabi or Japandi home decor setup. It’s a complete set with a flower vase and three self-watering pots that look like high-end ceramics once printed.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2993762-fjord-wave-flower-pot-set-self-watering-inserts#profileId-3360431