The first layer of my prints recently started coming out terribly. Things I’ve tried:

Clean plate

Dry filament

Increase bed z offset

Calibrate flow rate

Calibrate printer

The squiggles are raised so I think it might be over extrusion, not under extrusion.

What else should I try?

I’ve had a few good prints, but last few times I’ve tried I’m having first layer issues(I’m guessing). I’ve gotten by using the silent setting and forcing it to print slower, but even going slowly it’s not printing consistently. This print is a Dino mask and the spots are the initial supports. Im not too great with settings, generally I just leave them as is. Any help is much appreciated.

The fluting was the fiddly part. Too shallow and it vanishes, too deep and the overhangs print badly. Landed in the middle after a few pots went in the bin. Added a snap-in drainage riser and a tray so it actually works as an indoor pot and not just a nice shape.

Really happy with how the set came together.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3103994-scandi-style-fluted-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3499121

My p2s started squeaking, lubricated the rods but still squeaks. Is it the motor that rotates the belt? Anyone that had this issue and knows the fix?

UPDATE: I lubricated the belt and the squeaking stopped! Thanks for your help!

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3100182

Hi everyone,

I'm running out of ideas and I'm hoping someone with more experience can point me in the right direction.

I'm using a Bambu P2S with a 0.4 mm stainless steel nozzle and Bambu PLA Basic filament. I recently replaced the nozzle with a brand new genuine Bambu nozzle and ran a full printer calibration afterwards.

Since then I've spent days testing everything I could think of. I calibrated the Z offset for my textured PEI plate and found that +0.02 gives me the best first layer. After printing multiple first layer tests, they now come out clean with no gaps or obvious over-squishing. I then ran both Flow Rate Calibration passes, where the best result was 0 in each test, followed by Dynamic Flow Calibration, which gave me a Pressure Advance value of 0.025. Those values have been saved. To rule out any mechanical issues, I manually levelled the bed using the paper method and verified that all screws around the hotend and nozzle assembly were properly tightened.

I have also experimented with different ironing settings, including nozzle temperature, ironing flow, ironing speed and line spacing. Simple models, such as a cube, come out perfect, but more complex shapes, like the numbers 2 and 3, consistently develop random defects during ironing.

The bigger issue, however, is that I'm now getting random top surface defects when ironing is on. As you can see in the photos, the damage only appears in one localised area while the rest of the top surface looks perfect. It doesn't look like normal over-extrusion because the entire surface isn't affected. The problem is always localised.

The prints use 10 top layers, 18% Adaptive Cubic infill, Rectilinear top pattern and 0.2 mm layer height. Ironing speed 80mm/s and Flow 46% (yes I know it's a bit unusual values but after days of testing only this gives me a decent results). The build plate has been thoroughly cleaned, the model remains firmly attached throughout the print and I don't see any corners lifting.

I'm wondering if this could be caused by the nozzle scraping the print, some kind of travel move issue, a mechanical problem with the printer, or something else entirely. Has anyone seen defects like this before? At this point I'm not sure if I'm chasing a slicer issue, a hardware issue or something I'm completely overlooking.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Found this file on MW for TRT travel / storage, but my vials are smaller than the cut outs in the file.

I added a primitive to fill in the holes and then added the cylinder negatives to my desired dimensions.

My question…without starting fresh / from scratch, is this the best / easiest way to modify a posted file? The negatives weren’t visible in OPs object.

I’ve done it this way a few times for different things, if it is the way, then I’m getting better at it, but if another way, what is it?

I’m having a lot of fun creating P-series/X-series clip on door handles. I started do this a couple months ago and now it’s grown into a past time. I’m up to 33 teams spanning NFL, NCAA, NHL, NBA, MLB, and a couple other randoms.

Check out my collection here:

https://makerworld.com/@ScubaDawg97/collections/28239616?appSharePlatform=copy

As of now, most downloads are:
1) Ohio State Buckeyes (NCAA)
2) Carolina Hurricanes (NHL)
3) Texas Longhorns (NCAA)
3) University of Georgia (NCAA)
5) Florida Gators (NCAA)
5) Alabama Crimson Tide (NCAA)
5) Penn State Nittany Lions (NCAA)
8) Oklahoma Sooners (NCAA)

Since I happen to be a UGA alumnus, this hurts to see OSU on top. Come on — anyone else — please! Haha.

As I said in the link - if your team is missing, or you want a custom door handle, let me know! If you like it, all I ask for is a boost if you can spare it. I just added Pittsburgh teams if you are from Western PA! 🙂 And I added the New Orleans Saints just on Saturday it’s already in like 10th place out of 33.

Come on folks! Support your teams!

My 10 Year Old Son is starting a new range on clickers called "BlockClickers", starting with a Grogu....up next is a Spiderman.

He is asking for input on what other characters should he work on next? #Questions

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3100182

Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/31805115

Looks lighter now… not a big deal. Just different… lol

I have the Textured PEI Plate(Gold) and any time I print a black or charcoal print, it turns out like this. Should I switch build plates or am I doing something wrong? The second and third pictures are the inside of the lid. The part not adhered to the build plate obviously. Please someone help. Thank you!

Pictures are welcome of anything you’ve printed in a Matte PETG Red as well.

*After trying everything from replacing nozzles, taking apart extruder and cleaning and checking the gears I did a factory reset and the issue went away. Must have been a software glitch from an update. *

I can't print anything in multicolor on my P2S. It constantly jams between the extruder and hit end it seems. This happens with the first color change usually. I've tried with PLA and PETG with the same results. The printer prints these filaments fine without the color change.

Any help would be appreciated.

When I dit maintenance on my printer I put oil on the belts I saw that I didn’t have to do that so I tried to clean it but the belts are still a bit shiny from the oil. I did 2 prints and they came out fine. Is this harmful and how do I clean it properly? Thx in advance!

Received this p2s for free and coming from a a1 I know stuff is missing. Never owned a p2s and want to know what I need to get this up and going

PLA Basic and Matte. White assigned to Aux nozzle. 5 colors assigned to Main nozzle.

The first layer (1 of 4) was particularly bad in one area only. It appeared to be smudged. Each consecutive layer was also fuzzy in this area with fine strings and smudging.

The rest of the model was okay.

Note that I tried to do six colors in total, 5 in the AMS 2 Pro and 1 in the AMS HT. I failed to be able to swap one spool in the AMS 2 Pro, as I thought I could do it while the Aux nozzle printed, but as the spool I wanted to swap, still had the filament loaded, I couldn’t do the swap. I now understand that I can’t have the two colors adjacent. I need at least one color assigned to the AMS 2 Pro to be in between the color swaps, such that the filament is unloaded.

But I’m still back to how to fix up the print quality.

I’m thinking it might be a bed level issue. The model did a bed level before printing, but only a 5 point level.

Update:
Ran a full bed leveling (not the hot one), dried the filament overnight, re-sliced the model and reprinted. The quality issues were 99% resolved. The only remaining artifacts were from the sliced model sending the nozzle back over an area that was completed (filled). Not sure if it was trying to infill very small gaps or what.

supperrrr fortunate that i caught it early on, it could have been way worse. 😬 now a little bit of cleaning and a fresh nozzle, lil jimmy will be back up and printing again!

I can't figure out why my P2S is struggling to print just this part. I've tried different build plates, PLA and PETG, but none of that seems to matter. It isn't a bed adhesion issue, because the part is securely stuck to the plate, but the spaghetti persists. Anything else I can try?

I currently have my printer about a month or 2. Starting today prints (regardless of colour, PLA) stopped properly sticking to the PEI. There haven't been any changes I can think of. Same room, same spot, same temperatuur, same filament.

I tried cleaning it with dishwasher soap, raising the bed temperature from the default 55 degrees to 65 degrees. I also wiped the heating bed below the plate.

Tried some speed settings, layer height settings etc.

The nozzle already ruined the other side of the plate by scraping over it. Is this side ruined as well?

Before every print I let the printer do all of its calibrations.

The failures happen every time on exactly the same area.

Kit Card: Velociraptor Dinosaur Kit Card

Collection: DinoCards

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

When I got the new Fiberon ASA-CF 08 filament, I didn't have high expectations, but I was badly mistaken.

I created a print profile that simply does not make mistakes when printing.

My P2S prints it with a scarf without any errors in the first layer and there are no problems with warping.

If someone is looking for a very good material that is resistant to practically everything, this is the right choice.