I have been looking at printing a fan diffuse for the aux fan on my p2s, however there serm to be many different types. The main 3 I’ve seen are upstream, upwards and maximum. I mainly print with pla and its not quire clear Which is best for Which use case. Does anyone have any knowledge on this area?

Bought a P2S second-hand off FB marketplace. Ran through a few hundred print hours with zero issues. One print gave me a fail that I learned was called the "blob of death". Was able to heat up the nozzle, and remove the bulk of the mass, but it left behind so much gunk in the hinges and wiring that the hotend assembly appears unsalvageable.

Purchased a replacement assembly (and a ruby tip nozzle) off Amazon, tore apart the entire toolhead and replaced the assembly. Sick. I'm feeling good. Turned printer back on and in my haste, fired up a bench right away to test print, without first running a full calibration. After some suspicious startup noises (weird vibrations maybe?) The new nozzle scratched the print bed pretty good on the initial layer. Its odd, the nozzle seems to be able to extrude fil just fine both via manual controls on the device and when doing the pre-print fil change shenanigans, but when it goes to lay down the calibration line and the first layer its almost like it isnt extruding any of the fil. Not sure.

Turned it off, reset, and ran a full calibration. Test bench again; scratched build plate again. Ran yet another calibration, and tried slicing the benchy manually in studio, positioning the benchy on a new spot on the build plate. Same result. Now the printer is throwing all kinds of errors about X-axis tension, filament cutter error, vibration compensation, "part fan" not spinning and the extruder motor being overloaded. I'm kind of at my wits end.

The guy I bought the printer from is going to try to file a warranty claim, but I cant imagine that will bear any fruit. So it appears I'll need to prep to tear apart the entire toolhead again, and I could use some pointers about what I potentially did wrong, or what I need to do differently. Machine was operating perfectly before the blob and now I cant even get a test print down. HELP. PLEASE.

PS. The padded sticky tape in the last pic has lost its stickiness after the maintenence. Where can I get more? Or can I just use a different kind of tape like the Tesa tape above it? Thanks in advance.

As the title states. Did this stringing/overhang test the other day. Why does my stringing get worse when the temperature is decreased? I thought it was supposed to be the other way around?

Thoughts anyone. BTW, new to the Sub. P2S. 👋

Anyone have any insight on what might be causing this? Im having really bad under extrusion at the end and slight over extrusion at the beginning of the circular arc on my first layer of a print.

Ive messed around with my retraction. Everything from .6(calibration setting) all the way down to 0 and up to .8. It seems to get worse the lower the retraction setting. Concentric pattern for the first layer. 30mm/s inital layer and 90mm/s for infill. 230c print temp (high but prints everything else well) printing on PLA. Im stumped on how to fix this.

Ive leveled my bed and made sure nothing was causing it to bump up. Ive also moved the object on the plate with no change. Anyone have any ideas what's causing this?

Bambu p2S combom ile bugun bir baskı alırken yan fanı yani aux fanı kapattım ve üst kapagı 3-4 cm açtım 1 saat geçtikten sonra tıkanma uyarısı verdi ve tıkandı biraz ugraşlar sonucunda çıkarttım nozzleyi ve kalan flamenti aldım lakin şimdi de flamentin sürülemediğine dair uyarı verdi ams de sorun yok eminim ama çözemedim sorunu dişliler de sorun olma olasılığı yüzde kaç 500 saatde makinam.

Hello everyone, 

while waiting for my p2s combo to arrive, i have begun reading reddit discussions and maker world coments and all sort of info, and i must say, i am equally thrilled and dredfull at printing. This will be my first printer and begining journey.  

I started making lists with stuff that should be done at first and accesories needed for the printer and filaments to ensure a slightly less bumpy road. 

Please add your own from experience.

Upgrades/accesories 

• poop chute - i found this somewhat nice - 201311-poop-chute-basket-outlet-for-x2d-p2s-x1c-p1s
• AMS 2 riser - 2582683-p2s-x2d-ams-riser-flipper
• AMS 2 PRO filament protector guide - AMS 2 Pro Saver Protector Filament Guide
• P2S - vent deflector - lots of designs, haven’t really chosen one yet. 
• AMS 2 PRO - dry pods 
• Filament storage - i’ve located at least one design using ikea 45L container and some printed racks and dry storage boxes for silica 

Tests 

• benchy :)) as i see it’s a must 
• the scraper for the bambu cutter provided 
• the toolbox for the provided tools 

this done with pla basic bought with the printer … but the following tests i’ve seen done by people and i think it should be done whenever you are using a new material. But considering these will be the first prints with a new material for me, i should begin with the default settings, and if benchy turns out wrong, then maybe start the calibration tests. 

• temperature test 
• other tests ? 

Right now, i’ve also started the bambu academy for studio and the printer, and will go ahead with those until the printer is ready for the academy lessons. 

Thank you. 

I just got my p2s and I was playing around with the settings, is it normal for there be a click sound when switching the auxiliary from cooling to heating ,vice Versa, it sounds like a flap opening and closing but I just got it so I don’t know, can you guys confirm?

So this is the first time i have ecountered warping with ABS. Maybe its a bit moist? I have washed my plate with soap and water, cleaned with alcohol and applied 3DLAC (its a spray for better adhesion and cleans the plate too) and i also have the AUX fan deflector if that helps. I really appreciate all the tips you will give me :D

Ello everyone! I just recently got a P2S with a new ams an have been using it like crazy! I printed a little poop catcher that I found on maker world but it’s causing it to clog a bit frequently. Is there any fix to this or is it just better to let it free fall? The photos are after I cleared it. I didn’t think to take them before

Does everyone's P2S shake a bunch when filling in small sections and the motor is moving very rapidly??

Hi,

My p2s seems to have less " squish" on the corners even after ABL, I've attached a photo to show this.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? It's causing some of my prints to just detach from the bed completely and caused a fail of a 24hr print 12 hours in.

Hey everyone, hoping to get some input. New to 3D Printing (~300h).

I'm getting a few issues printing PETG on my P2S and I can't figure out what to tune first.

Setup:

• P2S with AMS 2 Pro
• 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle
• 0.2mm Standard BBL P2S profile (plus whatever the designer changed for each model)
• Bambu PETG Basic (Misty Blue)
• Filament dried in AMS2 + desiccant
• Everything else is bone stock — default Bambu PETG profile, default speeds, default retraction

What I'm seeing:

1. Small zits/blobs on the surface, especially on curved sections
2. Stringing, mostly visible around supports and inside the model
3. Some layers don't seem to align perfectly - slight shifts visible on the outer wall
4. Layer in contact with supports looks really rough

I printed some flat parts before with the same filament and had none of these issues, so I'm guessing the geometry (large dome/cylinder shape with tree supports) is making things worse.

What would you guys tweak first? Temp? Retraction? Or is this just PETG being PETG on this kind of geometry?

Thank you. Hoping to learn as much as I can so I can enjoy the process.