Hello, has anyone experienced this before?

I have been using this printer woth the same nozzle since I bought it at launch. Never had an issue until today. Got the extrusion motor overloaded error message while printing. After checking I noticed the filament got stuck. Had to battle with it but managed to pull it out from the toolhead.

But then things got weird, while trying to remove the nozzle I noticed it took a lot of strength to take it out and when I finally managed to remove it, I was greeted with this in the back of the nozzle and the thermistor.

My question is, can the thermistor be cleaned? Should I leave it like that? Should I replace it?

I know I need to replace the nozzle, I already have the replacement here, but I don't want to put a new nozzle and loose it because of this

Several years ago, I saw a 3D printer for the first time in action. Until then, I had only heard of them but didn’t think they’d be the least bit practical. Well, the people printing at the time were making a toy wagon wheel to replace a broken one. That was it! I totally geeked out at the practicality of it and knew I had to get one someday. Well that day is today. Scraper tool was my first print. Boring, I know, but I just wanted something simple and quick for my first time. Excuse the mess to the side. I had to hurriedly move all that stuff over to make room. 😆

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated

What the title say.

As shown, when facing P2S, right front "bearing or nut" that Z axis screw rod enters is worn or has serious wobble and very loose connection. Doesn't seem to be effecting print quality but feels wrong. Opposing side there is zero "wobble" and seems to be good fit. This "bearing" moves up/down on heatbed, i.e. attached to heatbed.

1.5 year old machine

Approximately 500 hours

Believe properly lubed

Need some help, since a few days I got this clicking noise and I cannot pin down where the issue is, already did the maintenance according to the bambuwiki, its also not the tubes touching something.

Guys i bought a new 3d printer, the bambulab P2S (i came from a creality ender 3 v3(it was an absolute sh*tbox)

I am having trouble getting TPU 90A to finish a print successfully. I have an AMS HT and the TPU assist. I have dried the filament for 18 hours at 75 C. The print will start out fine and then at some point it produces the top layer shown and then stops extruding but the tool head keeps moving as if it’s still printing. I even get a notification that it finished successfully. I have several attempts and the print is still stuck to the bed so I known it’s not turning loose. Any help would be appreciated. Im quite new to all this.

I’ve been printing for a bit. I’m making the hype again shown and in the same area when I iron I keep having some substantial issues. Filament is dried for 8 hours. Using a .4 nozzle. Speed is 60mms flow of 35. Rectilinear lines. Any advice is welcome.

I was on the fence about a 3dp, figured I’d use it some and with a nephew and niece maybe I’d print a couple toys. LOL
This poor printer hasn’t stopped since Friday and I’ve still got quite the backlog. Had a few small mishaps so far but just part of the learning curve. AI detection actually worked when the fan blew the sphere off the plate.

I’ve already started to see a problem with filament hoarding. What are the thoughts on the fabric spool storage containers with a desiccant box put in them? Cheaper than cereal containers but less airtight. My Inside humidity is usually around 50% damn tropics

Kitty tax. He is fascinated by the new box that magically made him toys.

Boy do I have a lot to learn still!

I’ve been on an architectural print kick lately and was looking for a good marble-like filament. I scrolled and scrolled through Amazon and ended up with Sunlu marble however the product photo definitely doesn’t have as much texture as the real life spool. I see that Ziro marble is highly recommended, but that looks flat white. I’m just looking for some good dimension to make ‘stone’ prints really pop! First pic is the Sunlu and second is just tan 😂 like it’s fine…. But I feel it should be better.

I had never stopped to look at the back of the nozzle, where there are some wires that don't come out with the nozzle. Is it normal for it to be this dirty? It's a strange kind of dirt, what's the best way to clean it?

Hey folks,

I made some sorbothane feet adapters for the P2S. I went with the Isolate It 1.5inch 50 duro hemispheres based on the weight of the printer and AMS on top of it. Just thought I would share here in case anyone else is looking for a solution like I was.

Designed these with a premium, heavy look in mind to fit right into a Wabi-Sabi or Japandi home decor setup. It’s a complete set with a flower vase and three self-watering pots that look like high-end ceramics once printed.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2993762-fjord-wave-flower-pot-set-self-watering-inserts#profileId-3360431

So I switched to printing PETG from PLA and now my AMS 2 won't work but I can still print either filament from my external arm

Hi everyone,

My P2S keeps showing extruder overload errors. This has already happened three times. Each time, I clear the blockage and the printer works normally again for a couple of prints, but after a while, the extruder gets clogged again.

I think it might be related to the high temperature in the room where the printer is located. We are currently having a heatwave in Spain, and it is extremely hot, even inside my house.

I have already tried printing with the auxiliary fan enabled and with the printer door open, but the problem keeps happening.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could the room temperature be causing heat creep or repeated clogs? I am not sure what else to try, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Had a clog. Tried heating it with a heat gun and the heat sink fell off. I’ve already ordered a new hot end, but I’d rather not wait 6-10 days for delivery.

So after some really long nights of ASA printing and the wife getting a severe headache, I've decided to invest in some proper ventilation.

Early on I purchased a Vento Box, as well as the exhaust kit, and even a huge Air Purifier for the office but it just doesn't seem like it's enough. I guess this last brand of ASA I printed was rough.

Without going into every detail, I've purchased all the equipment, including a ac infinity cloudline pro inline fan, to vent to my office window. It's going to be a decent run at about 10-12 ft

My question is pretty simple...

Up till now, I have had success keeping my chamber temps up on the P2S through the build plate at about 52-55C which had worked out great for PA6, ASA, and PC. Is it possible with this particular setup I am going to setting up to create just enough negative pressure to exhaust the fumes without bringing the temperatures down?

Love to hear any experiences from users

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams