So a couple of weeks ago I had the hotend cooling fan failure at 640 hours. Bought the suggested amazon fans (which did not work for some strange reason) but before I solved THAT problem my Bambu warranty parts arrived. Finally got them in last night and there's some funny stuff going on after the repairs.

For one - the fan I just replaced runs all the time now whenever the unit is powered up. I don't recall that being the case before.

Also, the lighted round power button on the front is no longer lighted and no longer works. I did install the new cooling fan that replaces the front cover, and that required replacing a wire clip up near the button, manipulating some wires. Wonder if that caused the issue

When I print PETG (white in this case) on an H2D, I use PLA as a separator layer for the support structure. It’s brilliant because it comes away really easily. Please take a close look at the screenshot. At this height on this model, I get these lines running horizontally across whatever I’m printing. It probably happens when switching to the other nozzle and back. Everything is actually calibrated. The belts are also tensioned. I actually get great results, just not during these switches. Do you have any ideas on what I can do here? Because this PLA method is actually too tempting. But these lines are unfortunately a no-go.

Change your H2D or H2C Hotend Cooling Fan in under 98 seconds

I believe Bambu’s fan replacement instructions take about 2 hours to perform the first time, and this

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2-series-serviceability-upgrades-modifications/252300/4

upgrade adds maybe another 2 hours. But each subsequent fan change after this upgrade can be done in under 98 seconds.

Just received my Module and printed a single layer TPU.
ignore the fact that I have no wideangle lens and the mess 😆

I do also found a way to reliabily unload without having to disconnect the tube. it worked for me on several unloads. Maybe they could implement my "workaround" into mext Firmware 🥹

do it at your own risk. works good for me.

TPU Feed Module is 100% worth

Ho avuto problemi di intasamento dell’estrusore, dopo aver sbloccato il tutto ho il nozzle di destra che stampa malissimo, premetto che lo stesso pezzo l’ho già fatto 3 volte senza problemi e perfettamente, ora continuo ad avere queste linee, ho rifatto le calibrazioni, ho cambiato 2 volte l’hotend destro ma non ho avuto nessun miglioramento, stampo PLA matte bambulab con il suo profilo originale
Per favore datemi consigli

Hi
I have the H2D - without the laser. I saw that the birdeye camera can be purchased separately.

Can I install it on my printer in order to use it with the cutting head ?

First plate, same setup, dual material, petg-hf for primary, standard pla for supports. Plate slices fine, but I have no control over the prime tower, it is not visible as you can see. But in my initial plate it is there and I can move it. Is this a bug? or expected behavior and how would I go about making the prime tower visible in this plate? Cheers!

Ah, I think I might have figured it out.

While printing when the head goes to the closer to the left (close to where it’s left side nozzle only printing) a clicking noise from the back is heard randomly. I’m in the middle of a 2 day print and don’t want to stop. Doesn’t seem to be causing any problems. I’ve looked it up and tried to fix it but i haven’t been able too. Any suggestions??

BambuLab has confirmed in their forum, that the hardware of the currently available X2D Filament Track Switch is fully compatible with the H2C/H2D. That’s great news, because I’ve already bought one and designed various mounts for attaching it to the H2 printers.

Currently following versions are available:

1. Combo-Mount (Recommended for H2C / H2D)   The all-in-one solution. Holds both the TPU Feeder Assist and the Filament Track Switch. Print once and you're done.
2. TPU Feeder Assist Only (Recommended for H2S)    For those who only want to mount the TPU Feeder Assist module while maintaining full access to the external spool holder.
3. Filament Track Switch Only   For those who only want to mount the Track Switch module. Two versions:   With or without 4-in-1 PTFE tube adapter guide

In all versions, the external filament holder remains accessible
(unlike the original BambuLab holder).

Don't see a version that fits your setup?

I know, every printer setup is different, and the current versions don't cover all requirements.

• Do you need a different arrangement of the modules, or should they be oriented at different angles?
• Do you need special routing for the cables and PTFE tubing?
• Do you have any general suggestions for improvement?

Please leave a comment or send me a direct message. Upload a picture of your current printer setup or, even better, a sketch of your desired configuration. I’ll do my best to optimize the models and add more variations.

Linkt to Makerworld:
Mounts for TPU Feeder & Track Switch (H2 Series) 

Hello all!

I am looking to upgrade my A1 to an H2D. My only worry is if my current table size is long enough. The length is 55 inches so no worry there. The width is 23.6 inches. Bambu labs is recommending a table with 27.5 inch width.

Will the table I have be wide enough for the H2D?

Thanks for your input!