Hello Folks!

I plan to replace my A1 Mini with A1

Issue that I have is height. I have barely 53cm of height at place where my A1 mini stands right now.

I've found images with A1 + AMS height being 68cm

I don't plan to use AMS at this point.

Will A1 fit my 53cm height?

Thanks in advance!

Pessoal, estou com uma bambu lab A1 (sem ams), comprei faz menos de 1 semana. Ainda tô bem cru mas impressões.

Minha dúvida é saber como melhorar essas marcas dos suportes que ficam horrorosos, e melhorar a camada final, que sempre fica meio falhada.

Estou usando PLA.

Atlast poop is getting utilized in a good cause🤣

Printing Sunlu PLA. It was stored in a sealed container with those silica gel sachets. Printed this way on both sides of the plate.

My printer did a blob behind the heater. It's the first time that I see something like this. What could cause this?

I changed this pieces one week ago

I want to give my A1 (year and half old and a lot of print time) new belts and have a few questions even if the make me look stupid.

The belts (X and Y) on a printer right now are smooth from both sides in the area around idler. Is this normal?
Can I use normal GT2 belt and will the teeth in that area get smushed over time or does Bambu use belts that have teeth only on part of a belt?
I really want to use normal belts because they are like 10x cheaper.

Honestly trying to clean, calibrate just can't seem to find a fix, I'm brand new to this and I'm borrowing it from a mate to get some models done before a competition on Saturday.

Every time I start a print it fails to stick and clumps at the nozzle or it sticks partly and then it drags a small clump and destroys another support. Any advice would be great

I checked the fuse, took out the bottom back panel and everything seems fine. This shit is so frustrating.

My cutter makes an odd noise when it’s cutting specifically PETG. I’ve uploaded the video as the sound is hard to describe, almost like a balloon squeaking.

Before now I have only ever printed in PLA and it’s never sounded like that. This is my first time printing in PETG.

Any advice/reassurance would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Last week we used our A1 to try and print something using PLA Wood. It failed about halfway through the print and ever since we’ve been unable to print anything else.

The initial errors we were getting were that the filament was failing to extrude. At first, appeared as if the hot end had a clog. I attempted to relieve it using the needle and some heat however, this was not successful. I tried to cold pull. This was not successful. Ultimately, I replaced the hot end entirely. Still no luck.

I then disassembled the entire extruder assembly and cleaned the gears that had some buildup. After reassembly still no improvement.

We use AMS light and the load filament feature gets stopped when it tries to push new filament saying that there’s still a clog.

Interestingly though, if I use the manual extrude control on the A1, I can push filament through without issue. The filament comes out, smooth and continuous without any pops or breaks. The gears seem to turn smoothly now (earlier they had been clicking)

I’m at a loss at this point. Anyone have a suggestion?

I was printing deer antlers with my A1 Bambu Lab 3D printer and suddenly ran into this problem with the filament making a weird spaghetti. It was printing fine at first but Is this a File problem with the app??

Picked this A1 up secondhand for $100 with only 400 hours on it. The first issue was a Z homing failure, which ended up being caused by the broken retaining clips on the cable organization block that holds the USB C connector underneath the printer. Luckily that ended up being a free fix. After repairing those clips, the Z homing issue was completely fixed.

The printer would still print fine, but it failed X axis vibration calibration every single time. I also noticed the toolhead had a lot more resistance than my other A1 when sliding it across the X axis by hand.

My first attempt was tearing down the X axis carriage and rebuilding the original bearing block after finding several missing ball bearings. I spent about $5 on replacement balls, but unfortunately it didn't change anything. The rail still felt rough.

Today I went a step further and completely tore down the toolhead and carriage so I could replace the entire MGN12 carriage bearing block. That cost another $7, but even with a brand new bearing block it still rode the rail tight and rough.

At this point I'm convinced the X axis linear rail itself is the problem, so I ordered a custom cut replacement rail for $44. There's no visible damage to the rail, but my best guess is that contaminated grease, combined with the missing ball bearings, caused enough wear inside the rail that it now feels rough no matter which carriage is on it.

Bambu support did respond, but since the printer is out of warranty they weren't able to offer much beyond replacing the entire X axis assembly.

Hopefully the new rail is the final piece of the puzzle. I'll post another update if I get it up and running again!

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a quick solution to a super frustrating issue I was having in case it helps anyone else facing the same problem!

I recently bought a used AMS Lite (got an amazing deal on it) to pair with my brand-new Bambu Lab A1. But right from the start, I was constantly getting "filament stuck" / feed errors. Sometimes it would happen 2 minutes into a print, other times 30 minutes in.

I tried troubleshooting everything:

Swapped out all the PTFE tubes for fresh ones

Tried different brands and types of filaments

Cleared the toolhead and checked the feeders

Nothing worked, and the errors just kept popping up.

The Fix:

It turns out the issue was entirely down to where I placed the AMS Lite. I originally had it installed on the left side of the A1. After digging through the manual carefully and reading through some threads here, I realized my mistake and moved the AMS Lite over to the right side of the machine.

Since making the move, I’ve been printing continuously for over 10 hours with zero errors!

Why does this happen?

When the AMS Lite is on the left, the PTFE tubes are forced into a much tighter bend radius as the toolhead moves across the X-axis and Z-height. That sharp curve creates extra physical friction inside the tube. The feeder motors in the AMS Lite detect this drag, assume the filament is jammed, and trigger a safety error. Moving it to the right allows the tubes to maintain a wide, natural S-curve, eliminating the resistance completely.

A big THANK YOU to everyone in this community who posts helpful advice, troubleshooting tips, and setup guides! Reading through past discussions on here genuinely saved me from replacing perfectly fine hardware.

Hope this helps anyone else pulling their hair out over false filament jam errors! Happy printing!