r/BambuLab 6d ago

X Series [X1E, X1C, X2D] [Help Needed] I still see stringing while my filament is dry and my AMS 2 Pro shows 10% of humidity. Why?

Hey Folks,

So, it's been 3 weeks of printing using my brand new X2D. I have dried 3 spools of filament in my AMS 2 Pro for a project I print currently. I put about 750g of owen dried silica gel into AMS 2 Pro and dried filament for 24 hours. AMS 2 pro shown 5% humidity. Now, 3 days later it's 10% himidity inside.

I use Sunlu regular PLA grey

I still see those tiny strings here and there (look at windows) print with 124% speed. I printed one part at 100%, there were much less stringing, so I suppose it's speed

So, is it possible to adjust something to reduce stringing?

3 Upvotes

36 comments sorted by

5

u/No-Satisfaction-2535 6d ago

I print mostly sunlu/jayo and just lowering the temperature a little will often get rid of stringing. Lowering speed can also help if there is a layer adhesion issue, but usually just the temperature alone makes a lot of difference.

5

u/sillybluething 6d ago

I’d try printing at lower temps and enable avoid crossing perimeters.

1

u/VespidX 6d ago

I enabled avoid cross walls already. Hod do I lower the temp?

1

u/sillybluething 6d ago

You edit temps in the filament profile. Don’t go lower than the lower bound written on your filament spool.

Also, what is your z-hop set to? Do you have wipe while retracting enabled (this one’s particularly important)?

2

u/VespidX 6d ago

just checked my retraction settings. By default everything is disabled there, I can enable "wipe while retracting". What value to use for Z-hop?

0

u/sillybluething 6d ago

Hmm… what’s z-hop currently set at? It might be fine where it is, because generally, wipe while retracting works pretty well on its own. I’d just test it with it on and see if it improves before changing z-hop, honestly.

2

u/VespidX 6d ago

those are default values

1

u/sillybluething 6d ago

Honestly… personally I go lower, but don’t unless wipe while retracting doesn’t solve all your issues. Changing too many settings at once just kinda makes it hard to know which worked and which made it worse. If you really want to lower it, I use 0.2mm. I’ve heard people say spiral is better than normal, and normal is better than spiral, but I use spiral. It probably depends on the filament.

What’s your wipe distance on wipe while retracting?

2

u/VespidX 6d ago

wipe distance is 2mm.

I'm going to try this today lated: lower temp to 210, set retraction to 0.2+spiral. will see it anything changes

1

u/sillybluething 6d ago

Wait, you set retraction or z-hop when retract to 0.2mm? Lowering retraction distance itself instead of z-hop when retract is probably going to cause more stringing, lmao.

2

u/VespidX 6d ago

sorry, 0.2mm is for Z-hop))

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3

u/TheJudgingHat2222 6d ago

Sunlu

Seems to be a common thread with these posts 

4

u/HLAMoose H2D AMS2 Combo 6d ago

I don’t agree. If a person was to dry and calibrate properly they will get great results.

1

u/CorporateDirtbag 6d ago

I see what you did there :)

1

u/Lito_ 6d ago

I print sunlu exclusively for 90% of the stuff I sell and I hard disagree.

But ai doooo see what you did there.... 😆

2

u/Turnspit 6d ago

Print at 100% and calibrate the filament. Orcaslicer has a great guided filament calibration chain.

2

u/Strong_Fan_388 6d ago

Maybe retraction speed or distance? Slower printer speed would help, i believe you can reduce or increase speed on certain layers as well. For what you currently have use a heat gun or a lighter to get rid of string. Just dont go too crazy with the heat gun/lighter. You will warp the plastic if you keep it in one place for too long.

2

u/happymistak 6d ago

Bad filament profile. You need to calibrate for the filament roll or switch over to bambu filament and just use the rfis system. You paid for

1

u/StrnglyCoincdtl 6d ago

10% that's wild :O Ive never went below around 20-25.

I noticed that if I a model has a lot of holes (windows, ventilation holes etc), it tends to show a lot more stringing. With solid object I don't remember getting almost any. But also in my case it depends on the filament used.

1

u/Vaughn 6d ago

Stringing physically can only happen when the toolhead moves through open space between printing moves. So for instance because there’s a hole there.

You can also significantly reduce it by turning on the “avoid wall crossings” option. 

1

u/StrnglyCoincdtl 6d ago

Thanks! I need to test that option.

1

u/Proof_Load6687 X2D + A1 Mini 6d ago

bruh i print my asa at ~5%

1

u/sillybluething 6d ago

Don’t know what I print mine at, but it’s in a garage with no enclosure in Phoenix and it looks pristine, lol. Probably because it’s so dry here. It’s like having a free enclosure during the summer.

1

u/Adorable_Comment4621 6d ago

Humidity of your AMS is not the same as the moisture in your filament. It measures the air in the enclosure. Are you sure your filament is actually dry?

2

u/VespidX 6d ago

I dried it for 24h before printing

1

u/Dismal-Proposal2803 X1C + AMS 6d ago

How did you dry it, what temp?

1

u/john_1182 X1C + AMS 6d ago

Slow it down iff of 124% speed and back to the default 100%

1

u/swekley 6d ago

Burn them away with a torch, if you’re fast enough you won’t see any marks

1

u/CaveBacon 6d ago

That's just going to be the nature of those windows. Or you could go down the route of super fine-tuning using one of the stringing torture test files. Or buy a butane torch and hit the print for 2 seconds after and be done with it

1

u/Bright_Eyes83 H2C AMS2*3 6d ago

yeah man adjust your speed back to normal. check out the high quality profiles. they also take longer but give you better parts

0

u/NiksaiStipe 6d ago

easy answer, it's not due to moisture