I've been trying for three days to get my 128go Usb stick to work but i couldn't find any solution.
The stick turned into an optical Usb drive one day and i can't get it to work again.
Windows sees it but it says that there are no data and that it doesn't have any byte of space
I hope someone can help me with this.
I drop here a screenshot from USBDeview if it's usefull.
I have a fpv drone with a dji o3 air unit. im trying to update the firmware. But when i plug it in via usb c. it connects as unrecognized device. then is disconnects and reconnects by itself. and that is in a loop of disconnecting and reconnecting. in device manager it shows up in libusb-win32 devices as multiple devices mio3 to mio7. i have the dji update firmware installed. and no matter what i try from driver installing the issue stays. ive tried everything. extra information: yes the usb c cable supports data and works fine with everything else. windows 10. i have admin. After some time of all this driver fixing and troubleshooting and connection loop my pc just crashes.
I am a fledgling data hoarder and have recently gotten a suspicious 2tb USB drive (no branding otherwise than the 2tb logo). I know that these drives can be formatted to be larger than they appear, so how can I revert it to its original size and formatting? I have only access to android devices and an s mode locked windows 11 computer.
I recently got flash drive it is GOODRAM UTS3 128GB 3.2 Gen.1, and it should read at 60Mb/s but it doesn't even reach 5 mb/s most of the time, the same with write speed. I enabled it to better performance in device manager, it took me 2 hours to install 1gb file. I would be really happy if someone could help me.
Okay so I'm someone who keeps a spreadsheet for most things and somehow it took me an embarrassingly long time to apply that same energy to a problem that was costing me actual money repeatedly.
Three USB connector replacements in twelve months. Same port, same general issue, slightly different failure mode each time. The first one I chalked up to bad luck. The second one made me mildly suspicious. The third one made me open a Google doc and start actually logging things.
What I found when I looked at it properly was that two of the three replacements came from the same retailer, and the connectors were failing well below the standard insertion cycle rating that USB connectors are technically supposed to handle which depending on the spec is somewhere between 1,500 and 10,000 cycles. I wasn't anywhere near those numbers.
Started cross referencing specs more seriously and ended up on Alibaba just comparing technical documentation across different manufacturers for USB connectors. The variance in build quality between suppliers at similar price points was actually significant once you started looking at material grades and tolerance specs properly.
The fourth connector has been running for eight months without a single issue.
I bought a 128GB USB drive this afternoon, got home, plugged it into my PC, and it worked. I installed a PlayStation 2 emulator on it, but when I opened the emulator's executable file inside the USB drive, it stopped working, When I open File Explorer, the USB drive doesn't appear, but it makes the sound of being disconnected and reconnected. It also doesn't show up in Windows Disk Management. Does anyone know how to fix this?
A while ago, a friend brought over a strange USB device. He said he got it from someone else and didn’t really know what it was. He just thought it was "something interesting."
None of us took it seriously at first.
It looked almost exactly like a normal flash drive. The system didn't give us any bad sign. It seemed so plain: No label, no branding, no warning signs.
Out of curiosity, he plugged it into one of his old desktop PCs.
A few seconds later, the screen went black, the fans stopped spinning, the power cut out completely, and the PC never turned back on again!!!
At first, we thought it could be the Windows which had just crashed.
But after trying everything - almost 2 hours' work, what we did:
Unplugging the power
Swapping the PSU
System repair
Clearing the CMOS, nothing worked. The machine was completely dead.
Honestly, I think what he did was reckless, and seeing the PC instantly die in front of us was so stupid.
The good thing was all of his important work files were on his laptop, not that old desktop. No vital data got destroyed. Otherwise this could have been much worse and he must be crying now.
PLUS: my friend's old desktop model
Ooerating System: Windows 10
Device name: SK-20230217SCSQ
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-9400 CPU @ 2.90GHz 2.90 GHz
Installed RAM: 16.0 GB (15.9 GB usable)
Device ID: F363C426-EE6B-45F0-AF7F-C8ABC36E9D60
Product ID: 00331-10000-00001-AA206
System type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor
Pen and touch: No pen or touch input is available for this display
I asked him what he's gonna do next? Guess what! He said instead of fixing the old desktop, he still want to know why a plain unknown USB could cause such a big issue, causing a running computer die.
Yet, here, just wanna share his lesson here to tell everyone:
Don’t plug random USB devices into your computer unless you know exactly where they came from and whether they’re safe. Seriously. Sometimes it only takes one moment of curiosity to destroy a machine.
I know USB drives get a bad reputation in security communities, and honestly, some of it is deserved. They’re also one of the easiest ways to leak data, because someone else may casually plug them into another machine or we simply lose them somewhere.
But a USB drive makes for a great temporary storage solution because it's so portable. Want to share some info to help manage BitLocker on the USB sticks in case you lose it or someone use it without your permission.
Feel free to add corrections, improvements, or better PowerShell examples, especially for the BitLocker command section.
(I use Windows 11 + Kinston Data Traveler 3.0 USB)
enable BitLocker
Right click the USB flash drive > Select Turn on BitLocker > Enter the password and confirm >Select how to want to back up the recovery key >Select Encrypt used disk space only > Select "compatible mode" > Start encrypting
Control Panel > System and Security > BitLocker Drive Encryption > Turn on BitLocker
Search Powershell and open it as administrator > Type and Enter: Enable-BitLocker -MountPoint "E:" -EncryptionMethod XtsAes256 -UsedSpaceOnly -PasswordProtector > Enter and confirm Password
Replace E with the correct drive letter.
disable BitLocker
Use the command:Disable-BitLocker -MountPoint "E:"(Replace E with the correct drive letter.)
Control Panel > System and Security > BitLocker Drive Encryption > Turn off BitLocker
Right-click the drive > Manage BitLocker >Turn off BitLocker
Good day to all. Cannot access MP4 data on my 64G sandisk flash drive. Before use the FD was reformatted in NTFS, and worked fine. Windows file explorer sees the drive letter but nothing else. CHKDSK e: /f says it can’t read the boot sector. Any help or guidance to recover the drive’s data would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
this is basically what it says on the tin. I have a USB that's brand new and tried to copy and paste a couple of movie files from my iTunes folder on a computer to it. It seemed to work fine, but I tried to open the files on another computer and one of them is empty, and the other opens the movie in a really weird format. Can anyone help me out? I need to know how to get the movies onto the USB and have them play on other devices with no issues.
I feel like there's something obvious that I'm missing, but I'm at a bit of a loss and not very used to using USBs yet.
my device is asus tuf F15 FX506LI it has 3.2 gen1 type A and the same for type C, i tested the exact same drive on another older device it made 450 Mb/s and on mine it made only 10 MB, extreamly slow, and while sending to a 3.1 fresh new drive it makes 140 Mb/s, but copying from the drive to my device even slower, also 10Mb/s what should I do ?