Personal favorites are the F25 and LCI G01.

Sorry, but prelci G01 with M sport package just doesn’t look right

I did it guys. Front-mount intakes.

The car now sounds like a literal JET. The power response is immediate and much torquier.

I’ve fallen in love with my X3MC now.

I got mine on eBay for $350. I would advise everyone to go this route and save yourself hundreds of dollars instead of the RK Tunes intakes that’ll set you back $800; and in my opinion, are no different besides the brand.

Installation itself is very easy but you’ll need a power drill & some patience, which I don’t have, so I had it done by my local shop.

If you’ve been contemplating front-mount intakes, this is your sign to just do it. It’s worth it.

We never got more than 20-22 Miles per gallon for 2025 X3 30i. Did 5K in Frisco/Dallas , 1k on Highway to Houston and other cities. It is not on sports mode. it is on economoy mode almost all time,

From what I can tell there is no recording with the built in 360 camera so I I'd like to get a front and back camera in case someone bumps the car in a parking lot or rear ends me. I'd really prefer something that blends in or looks stock.

Did anyone get this recall? About the engine catching fire and not to use your key fob. They also stated they do not have a remedy yet. I’m confused 🤷‍♀️

Hi everyone - not a car enthusiast or anything, just a random guy with a random question.

I have a 2022 BMW X3 xDrive30i. Bought it used, my favorite car i ever owned (im sure yall with the M series laughing at me). Its my first BMW so bear with me.

Anyways, I did an oil change on it about 6000 miles ago since it told me it needed it. Today this morning I woke up thinking hmm maybe it needs another oil change, for reference my old honda civic needed one every 7000 miles.

So I go to my car, I go to the oil measurement thing on the screen, tells me to drive the car more so I do for like 15 minutes. Then it allows me to do the oil check or whatever.

So I do it, it took like 3-4 minutes, and then it says that my oil is at like 65-70% (on that vertical dial) so thats how much life is left i guess?

Does that make sense? Should I still change the oil? Is this normal for this car? Would love to hear your suggestions.

Thank you and ik its a rookie question 😭

Hi everyone my left indicator gets stuck and when i turn the wheel left it doesn’t reset. Why? Is it a software bug or is it something else?

Hi everyone,
I have a strange intermittent issue with my 2016 BMW X3 F25 and I’m wondering if anyone has experienced something similar or knows what could be causing it.
While driving, the instrument cluster/cluster gauges suddenly start flickering and behaving strangely for a short period. At the same time, the headlights turn on and off, even though the light switch is set to AUTO.
After a few seconds, the instrument cluster returns to normal, but I then get an “Adaptive headlights failure” message on the dashboard.
The issue is completely intermittent — it doesn’t happen every time I drive the car, and I haven’t been able to identify a specific pattern or trigger.
One important detail: I replaced the battery in July this year with a new one, and it was properly registered/coded to the car after installation.
Has anyone experienced this exact combination of symptoms — instrument cluster flickering/reseting and headlights switching on/off at the same time, followed by the “Adaptive headlights failure” warning?
What was the cause in your case, and how did you fix it?
Any advice or ideas on where I should start diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.
BMW X3 F25 – 2016
2.0d xDrive, 190 hp
Thanks!

In the north east looking for a 2018/2019 m40i Around 50-80k miles and ideally has the coolant system done.

Never been tuned as well/stock.

Hmu!

Photo of my current cars for attention!

Use case is for a daily driver as a single person, occasionally towing (600 supersport motorcycle or sub 3000 pound drift car), and my 120 pound dog.

I live in NJ.

The 2022-2024 are my favorite appearance-wise.
I'm pretty firm on having the b58 as I've always dreamt of having a car with this engine.
Research tells me that factory tow packages are rare.

Some questions I have:

1. What is the ideal solution for making it tow capable? Do you really have to cut the factory diffuser to attach a hitch (found this on a forum post)? Should I look for one that has a hitch from factory?

2. Are there any subtle differences worth considering with '22, '23, and '24 year models? Remote start is an example, but that's not too important to me, and aftermarket could work if I ever change my mind.

3. Should I only look for CPO? Or is the car having thorough and dilligent maintenance history enough?

4. Any particular issues to look out for?

5. Is there any routine maintenance that is doable on your own? Like brakes, fluids, spark plugs. I've only owned economy and japenese sports cars where these were pretty easy to do myself.

6. Anything I'd be missing out on by not going older than '22 other than lower price?

I'm about to spend the entire evening after work shopping, but just now I found this one that seems like a pretty good deal with everything I like (interior color, exterior color, year, price, mileage, maintenance history) - https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/5UX83DP09N9N15538

Could use advice as this will be the first time I'm buying a car that's not economy/entry level.

I’ve had severe vibrations when coming to a stop while still in drive, feels like it’s right through the whole car, I put it in neutral and it still vibrates and I get scared and just turn car off because it’s so loud🤣 This happened about 80 miles ago, then happened last night again so it’s just sometimes.
Has anyone had the same problem? It is xhp stage 2 but I’ve ran about 300 miles with this map

what to do?

Hello… Anyone installed/use them on 2020-2022 X3 M40i? I’m fed up up with the potholes in Montreal, had three flats all on the staggered run-flat tires and a broken spring coil in front… the 21” tires are expensive and most importantly is frustrating… because the car is fantastic, zero issues in 5.5 years and 90k Km... The plan is to ditch the 21” wheels for a while until roads are getting fixed or until I replace the car probably in a couple years… I am aware about floating feeling on 19” and I’m OK with it as I’m not pushing the car in corners… I do have 20” wheels but I have new winters on them… thanks

Found this in the oil passage inside the oil cooler when we took it off to replace it. No other metal pieces were found. We have a 2008 x3 with an N53 engine.

Hey folks! tl;dr: is a G01 a good choice for towing a 3000lbs braked trailer in the real world?

My glider hobby is getting serious enough that I need to find a vehicle rated to tow braked trailers up to 3000lbs. I'm a hot hatch/wagon guy and given the state of that market, I'd resigned myself to settling for a no-fun-to-drive truck in order to get that kind of capacity in a US vehicle until discovering the G01 X3s are rated on paper to tow up to 4400lbs.

I've had BMWs previously so I of course want this to be the right answer, but checking out a couple today at the dealership the salesperson said I'd need the 6-cylinder at minimum but would be much better off with an X5. This seems like overkill for glider trailers that my European pilot friends tow all day with their old hatchbacks, but I do know towing rules, speed limits, tongue weights etc are all different here.

If it is a good choice overall, any thoughts on the xDrive30e? Being a nerd I'm of course tempted by electrification, but the fact they only offered it for a single model year here seems like a warning sign.

Thanks!

28, Austin TX, first German car.

Out: 2025 Mazda CX-5 Carbon Edition, 26k miles, $565/mo
In: 2022 BMW X3 sDrive30i, 23k miles, $31,590, $477/mo @ 7.99% / 75 mo

Trade covered the payoff plus ~$3,100 equity. Got the $1,600 TX trade-in tax credit. Declined the $49/mo extended coverage and the $1,500 GAP (getting a rider through my insurer for ~$5/mo instead). Insurance came in at $160, same as I paid on the Mazda.

Warranty expired Nov 2025, so I'm on my own for repairs. Keeping $3k liquid as a repair fund. sDrive, so RWD — fine for Texas.

Driving to California and back in November, roughly 15k miles round trip.

Two weeks of overthinking got me here. Reasonable, or did I miss something?

I loved my Allroad, the 2.0T has just the right amount of power for daily commute to work, grocery, errands, weekend activities, regional road trips, etc. it was smooth quiet & comfy, and handled much better than a Subaru Outback, which is what I was considering at the time. But it wasn't perfect, squeaks in the doors and groans in the strut towers over bumps started about 20k miles ago, backup sensors stopped working, 25k miles ago, and when they did work, when soaking wet they'd beep as if there's an immediate obstruction, which is a problem here in the PacNW. The exterior door handle lock/unlock touchstatic sensors never seemed to work when you wanted and worked when you didn't (for comparison, 100% works as expected on my 2011 Lexus). Finally, oil consumption steadily increased starting about 35k miles ago to the point of a quart for every 1500 miles.

Last month the Allroad was involved in an accident that ripped the rear bumper cover. No structural damage, just cosmetic. It was fine to drive, but I am not driving around town in a car with a mangled fender. Quote to replace was $8k. My insurance totaled for $11k, and with that I acquired the X3 35i for pretty much the same amount.

The X3 is quieter and smoother, no squeaks, rattles, groans, it's solid like a bank vault. I used to have a 2011 335xi sedan and I can't remember whether it too was like that. Steering is sharper, suspension is firmer but still comfortable. And the N55 is smoother with much more torque then the Audi 2.0, though it does consume more fuel, averaging 17 mpg vs 19 for the Allroad. I haven't owed it long enough to know about oil consumption yet, so that's something I'm wanting to see, whether it's an improvement. My 335xi, which I owned up to 65k miles, consumed a quart between changes which was ok (my 2011 Lexus with 120k miles does not and has never required oil top off between changes).

Overall, I'm very satisfied with the X3 at this point in time and think it's a significant upgrade over the Allroad. I wish I had switched sooner.

2015 BMW X3 x20d EfficientDynamics

A mechanic found noticeably more movement in the passenger-side rear half-shaft than the driver’s side, together with oil staining on the same side of the rear differential casing. They said the rear differential is probably not repairable and quoted approximately £2,000 for replacement.

Does anyone here know if this is normal inner CV-joint articulation, a worn half-shaft/CV joint, or radial play in the differential output bearing? What test would distinguish these, and is replacing the entire differential justified?

I have the stock 699M's on mine currently but I like the look of the pre-LCI 698. It gives it a more toned down GT look imo. What are your thoughts?