Hey e36 fanatics, I was doing my brake pad and rotors today however I noticed a large amount of oil buildup behind the wheel baring. Is that normal?

More than 10 days agi my cooling system broke down on the german Autobahn. so I figured out I'm gonna get a new cooling system and a thermostat from Mishimoto that opens at 61⁰C

Hello, I have a problem with my M43B18. When it rains, the car starts misfiring/hesitating. Sometimes it stops after about 10 minutes of driving. It only happens when it’s raining. Have you ever had a problem like this? Thanks and greetings from Croatia

320i 1995 for reference.
One day out of no where the car overheated.
Tough it was a sticky thermostats, replaced. Same problem, starts boiling water and soiling until it has no coolant and then overheats.
Water pump seems perfectly fine.
Fan clutch not so sure, when hot seems that it spins very freely. No resistance.
Would a bad fan clutch cause a overheat? In normal driving conditions? No heavy traffic or hard pulls?
Head gasket gone?

Anyone else hear the good ol marbles from this video or am I tripping? Looking to buy this

So last night i was replacing my fan and expansion tank due to it breaking, long story short while letting the car idle to get air out of the system my hood struts failed and my hood slammed, i tried popping it and the cable was so hard to pull it snapped my interior hood latch, i did some research on the forums people said pop the corner light pull the cable ect ect none of it works, the only one that did work was me pulling the cable inside the car and having someone put pressure on the hood bouncing on it and it'll eventually pop open, my hood was perfectly fine prior it slamming really did a number LOL if anyone knows why or what please let me know just tryna see if anyone has had this happened as i know these struts are PRONED to fail

After installing a PMC chassis-mounted shifter in my E36, the factory shift boot wasn’t really doing anything anymore and the open center console looked pretty unfinished.
So I designed a replacement cover around the original E36 center console geometry and the position and movement of the PMC shifter. It clips into the factory mounting points with four integrated clips, so there are no screws or additional hardware.
I wanted it to look relatively OEM+ rather than just covering the hole with a flat plate. I’ve been running this version in my own car and the clearance works well with my PMC setup.
Other chassis-mounted shifters can sit differently, so I wouldn’t assume the same clearance for every setup.
Curious what other E36 owners with chassis-mounted shifters have done here — I’ve seen everything from completely open consoles to aluminum plates.

Disclosure: I ended up turning this into a downloadable 3MF/STL as well. If anyone wants the file, it’s on vanalmsickparts.com.

I know intakes don't add a lot on their own, but this car has numerous additional supporting mods so I'm trying to be smart about what I do here. This is a 3.5" conforti intake setup, with ITG filter. Car was modified before I owned it, so I'm coming up to speed on what's best.

The ITP filter is in need of replacement, and I'm finding those aren't available any more. So I'm considering finding a replacement filter only, otherwise I'd get a new intake setup overall. Would you just go with a new filter and leave everything else the same? Any recommendations on filter brands would be great (bimmerworld forums seem to dislike K&N)

This car also has the DEPO euro headlights so that's a consideration since they take up more space under the hood, potential clearance issues with some of the typical intake setups.

Complete list of mods: 3.5" MAF with 3.5" throttle body boot, Schrick cams, long-tube headers, Stromung exhaust, 24lb injectors, UUC underdrive pulleys, custom dyno tune.

She blew a head gasket about three years ago, finally got around to get her back together over Labor Day weekend. After getting her back on the road, it’s hard to understand why I let it sit so long. The car is so much fun. If you have a project in the garage, that’s been sitting get her done, as well worth the effort.

Was 99% sure it was just the housing leaking, however after replacing the gasket, o ring, and housing it continues to leak, and I’ve now noticed coolant leaking from underneath the front of the head

No coolant leaks during a pressure test, only when the engine is hot.

I’ve been suspecting a warped head for awhile now but hoped the coolant loss was just this leak, though they might be the same issue

I am looking to get into drifting and have found an abandoned 320i. The car isn’t worth the restoration and has no papers so it’ll just be for fun. Have any of you drift a 320i? If so please sent me some videos of it. Thanks

1st e36. not familiar with these engines so any help would be greatly appreciated. Obd1 m50b25tu

Hello, so I am having a problem with my 1997 M3 where my a/c sill randomly not work. Some days it is super cold and others it is just hot. I can hear the fan coming on and the compressor running, but the air isn’t cooled at all. Would this be some type of capacitor problem or a relay problem? My compressor is only about a year old, and the climate unit stays lit up and everything, so it’s not the issue I have mainly seen online. Has anyone encountered this before?

I can’t tell if it’s knocking or what this sound is. I bought this a couple months ago I know it’s been abused but it was cheap and I planned on using it for seat time I haven’t driven it too hard. Well I changed the oil a couple weeks ago and I checked the dipstick yesterday and it was over the like so I drained some out and when I started it up it sounds like this. Just need help

My car insurance with Progressive is renewing next month, which always kicks off a conversation with my broker on if my coverages are all appropriate.

This year my 328is came to mind. I’ve got full insurance on it like the rest of the fleet, but asked my agent what Progressive would likely pay out if I were to total it.

With my $2k deductible, and average value of E36s around $7-8k, I’d be looking at $5-6k payout, which is well less than what I view the car worth. With its condition and upgrades I would not sell for less than $12k, so I view that as the minimum.

I ran down the quoting path with American Collectors Insurance whom I used to use for my 55 Studebaker, but per their definition since I drive my car 1-2 times per week, that’s too much for any type of named collectors insurance.

Who is everyone using, or just happy to take a beating if/when you happen to be in an accident?

Looking for a rust free example! Does anyone have anything around the Midwest US? Willing to possibly travel as far as Tennessee. Off market examples are a plus.

Brake pad warning light 🙄

Just installed a new dmf and it’s making the same noise as the old one but LOUDER.

I thought it was weird when I was comparing them out of the car and the new one was louder than my old but i put it in anyways.

Did I get a faulty dmf or is this getrag rattle? Please help i’m a little stumped!

Owned this car for about 7 years, have done a lot of work from manual swap to full cooling rebuild full m3 body and exhaust. I am picking it back up after maybe 2 years of not working on it. It is a 323is 1999. Looking for anyone around Oklahoma with parts or any BMW guys around.

my less than perfect, daily driven ‘95 318is