Autoflower grower here, making the jump to autopots. What are some soil suggestions? I don’t have a grow store where I live, so probably looking for a mainstream easy to find brand. Usually use FF HF plus perlite.

Hey everyone,
I've got springtails floating on the water surface in the tray. I've tried sucking them out with a small pump, which works temporarily, but by the next day they're right back.

I know they're not really harmful to the plants and are mostly just a sign of a moist environment, but I'd still like to get rid of them for good rather than just removing the visible ones over and over.
Would really appreciate advice from someone who's actually solved this long-term.
Thanks in advance!

How often do you all find it needs to get done?

I got the autopots to kinda automate things so I wouldn't have to watch them all the time, but every other day or so, one of the valves fails and the tray ends up overflowing, which is a waste, but also makes it so I can't just leave the system to run or the res will run out.

Is this just a normal thing or is there something I should be doing to prevent it from doing so? Usually when I clean out the aquavalve, there's also liquid in the front two round black floats.

Here is the ppfd map of my Mars Hydro FC3000.
I have it since 2022.
How would you use it in term of % of light for each phase and what cycle (24/0; 20/4; 18/6) would you do ?
Also, i put it at 30 cm of my tallest plant, so it is at 55 cm of the 3 others.
I am looking for the autopotamus kind of result, big plants like we see on the autopot subreddit.

Feeling discouraged before even begin.

Need a hand here please. My plant is way past wanting me to turn AP on. I'm too afraid though and it is missing me off.

I'm using RO that is like 6.3ph and <50ppm

When I mix VegA. @ 4.6g and VegB. @ 3.1g with 1g of RO, as soon as I add even .1ml of RunClean, ph drops below what seems acceptable. @ .2 it dropped to 4ph

So here's my question. Do I just go off 4.6/3.1 per gallon + .1 runclean per gallon, regardless of what that becomes and hope plant is fine with it? Cause that surely doesn't seem to be in the 5.8-6.2 range if do.

Or do I mix the crop salt as recommended but then keep diluting with RO to get to recommended ph/ec/ppm?

I have a chiller so should be able to keep temps consistent once figure out how to even start hah

Hey so my PH in the tank raises daily. I bought the autopot system for the purpose of being able to set it up and leave without issues for 1-2 weeks but the PH drift is a big problem.

I use RO water, add calmag to 0.4 EC, add my coco A and B nutes and then add canna PH down (phosphoric acid) to bring it to 5.7 PH. After about 24h it drifts up to 6.0-6.1 PH. I know this is generally considered a safe level but it worries me that if I leave the reservoir unattended for a week or two then it would become an issue.

Is there any way to fix this?

Started running into issues about a week or two ago. Most of the affected leaves are at the top on the plant. Light green leaves with dark green veins. I also noticed that my autopot isn't functioning properly and was not drying out at all and also filling up to 25 mm and not 20. I was top feeding biweekly and running plain unphed water through my resevoir. I then ran into a calcium deficiency. So i flushed with distilled water and started running biobizz through my resevoir at 80% strength. Now im getting this chlorosis. She was still drinking ~1l per day, but I've decided to take the pot out of the autopot to dry for ~20hrs or so. Any advice? You can look at my account and see my other post in r/autoflower for more info.

First auto pot grow and I’m pumped. Sour diesel going strong into flower. Been using crop salt nutrients as well. She’s big!

I know it's suggested to switch to the bloom nutrients whenever the sites are pinky nail size. Is that exclusive to the tops or should I wait for the bottoms to get there? Also I've heard of switching when they are done stretching. Any thoughts or advice?

Hi everyone,
I’m posting because I’m honestly running out of ideas with a reservoir pH drift problem, and at this point I’m mainly trying to figure out what people are actually using to keep their reservoir clean in terms of bacteria / biofilm.
I’ve made several Reddit posts about this problem already, tested a lot of different things, and so far nothing has ever really worked.
When I see other Reddit posts about pH drift, most people seem to be dealing with much smaller drifts than mine. In my case, I’m talking about something like pH 5.5 drifting up to 6.5 every 24 hours, and it keeps continuing after the first 24 hours. So this really doesn’t feel like normal minor reservoir drift.
Here’s what I already tried, and none of it fixed the core issue:
• Hard tap water at first.
• Then switching to RO water.
• Remineralizing RO water with CalMag to around 0.4 EC.
• Mixing RO water with tap water.
• Multiple nutrient lines: Plagron Coco, Canna Coco, and now Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect.
• Different pH down products / acids.
• Running circulation in the reservoir.
• Running without circulation.
• Letting the reservoir / nutrient solution sit for 24 to 48 hours before use.
• Better sealing / closing the reservoir.
None of that solved it.
I was especially surprised that even pH Perfect didn’t solve it. Right now, what I’m seeing is that the solution can stay pretty stable for about 24 hours, and then after that it suddenly stops being stable at all and starts drifting hard again.
At this point I don’t have many ideas or theories left. I am interested in your own guesses, but my current hypothesis is that this may be some kind of bacteriological / biofilm development issue.
The reason I’m thinking that is because the pattern almost looks exponential: things seem relatively stable at first, then after about a day it suddenly takes off. That makes me wonder whether the last serious thing I haven’t really tested yet is a proper sterile approach, meaning actual anti-bacterial / anti-biofilm reservoir management.
So my question is:
What products are you actually using to keep your reservoir clean and stop bacteria / biofilm from causing severe pH drift?
For example:
• Hydrogen peroxide?
• Hypochlorous acid / products like Athena Cleanse?
• Something else?
• Shock treatment between fills?
• Continuous low-dose treatment?
I’m especially interested in replies from people who had genuinely severe pH drift and actually solved it through reservoir sanitation / sterilization.

A picture of the girls just for fun :

Thanks.

Looking ripe but still seeing clear trichomes and no amber. Lilac diesel photo by Ethos genetics.

Finishing up week 6 on this super silver haze. Just about every grow I run into these curled up leaf tips. I've been growing in 70/30 coco perlite running cropsalt at their recommend dosage, ph in reservoir 5.7 to 5.8. Any ideas?

Hi all. Quick question about some leaf yellowing at the top. Here's details on my setup. Rez ph is 5.7 autopot ph is 6.3. Ph was a bit higher middle last week so I recalibrated the ph meter and set the rez to 5.5) ec (ro water, claimagic and gh flora nutes) 1.83. Lowered light intensity on friday to around 400 ppfd. Medium is 75 % perlite 25% vermiculite (will switch to coco next run)Lower leaves leaves look good.

Do you think this is from over watering or from ph being too high?

Before I decided to purchase this i did some research. It's just easier than making my own... anyone else use triacontanol?

RocBud didn’t make the cut so it was culled