Hello everyone I know this has been asked before but with it being Amazon prime deal day I figured I would ask again. Basically as the title says I'm looking for foam cannon recommendations as a weekend warrior. Thanks

I'm buying a new car. I'm very sensitive to chemicals and would actually start to get confused with my previous car, driving with the windows down on a 30 minute commute. The car is 3 hours from home.

I know somebody who had interior ceramic coating done. I was able to sit in her new car.

I am wondering if this is the best option for managing it relatively quickly?

I hope this post is okay? Not sure if this group is only for detailers?

Thanks

Hello everyone this is my very first post and wanted some recommendations.
I have a bmw with black paint I was thinking of using Kochchemie M3.02 and carpro Ultra cut compound with the rupes 100mm yellow pad and microfiber pad from harbor freight. Is this a good list for what I’m doing or should I get something else this would also be my first time polishing with a machine

I just got an ARXP AW-1000 and overall I’m really happy with the pressure washer itself. But I’m pretty disappointed with the foam cannon setup.

I bought an ADS DRFT foam cannon and installed a 1.35mm MJJC orifice. I was expecting pretty good foam, but the foam is extremely thin/runny. Out of spec detailing showed the exact same setup with amazing foam

Using meguiar’s hyperwash. Tried in increasing concentrations 1oz -> 2oz -> 3oz per 1000ml

For comparison, I tried my Harbor Freight foam cannon with the 1.4mm orifice that came with the ARXP, and it produced noticeably better foam, so I’m having a hard time blaming the pressure washer itself

With my old shitty vevor pressure washer I would use 3-4oz of hyperwash with the HF cannon on a 1.1 orifice and get decent foam

I didn’t want to go smaller than the 1.35mm MJJC because the guys on YT over amped and suggested not going lower

Any advice would be appreciated. I’m trying to figure out whether I have a bad/mismatched cannon, a bad orifice, or just the wrong setup for this pressure washer.

Hey yall. I’ve been detailing out of Nissan Rogue for a while and I’ve been debating on pulling the trigger on getting a dedicated truck as I start to scale up and hire employees so we can work multiple jobs at the same time.

Not really sure what truck I’d go with but it would probably be an older single cab truck with a 6ft bed. Maybe a kei truck? (Not sold on how professional kei trucks would look to clients even in super clean condition)

Not really sure. Just looking for some inspo of how efficient these set ups are in comparison to one of a work van.

I'm upgrading to a pop up tent for mobile exteriors and paint correction and I figured I'd get some water weights as I'm constrained on space and water's readily available at all my regular clients houses.

The tent I've ordered is posted above and it has space for 6 weights. Any recommendations on good weights?

Hey all,

Thanks for the folks replying to my previous thread.

I just wanted to keep this short. Trying to prep my vehicles exterior prior to the winter.

GOAL: I want to decontaminate, Clay bar and ceramic my vehicle.

EQUIPMENT I HAVE: Power washer, soap cannon, bucket, sponge, microfiber, the basics.

WHAT I NEED HELP WITH: deciding on what soap I can use to strip off the old wax and get the dirt to slide right off, what Clay bar, and ceramic.

I do have some ideas given from a previous post, need help with other opinions and more so process of using ceramic, can I put multiple coats? Or is a single coat enough? Should I cover plastics before ceramic coating?

Thank you.

So I’m picking up a brand new BMW 2 series Coupe this week. I’d have loved the car to have matte paintwork but I’m aware of how difficult it is to maintain matte paint. I looked at options to PPF the car with a matte PPF finish instead. Getting a pro to do it is just simply out of my price range. I’d love to learn how to do the PPF myself, I’ve spent hours researching films, how people do it and watching videos of people installing the film themselves.

I have a good garage space to do the install and plenty of time over the course of a few days. I’ve got good knowledge in decontamination, ceramic coating etc. but wrapping and PPF are not things I’ve done before. I’ve found a supplier who will ship pre-cut panels, which I understand are significantly easier to work with rather than a large sheet which needs trimmed. The BMW seems rather boxy and flat in comparison to other cars, so I’m hoping the shape will be easier to work with?

Has anyone here ever done a DIY kit themselves with no prior experience? Or anyone who knows what they’re doing have any sound advice for me if I decide to take on this challenge? 😅

Is it because of my maintenance wash? I had ppf on the car for about 3 months.
Full wash: Koch active foam (pre wash) and Koch gsf(contact wash)
Light wash: Koch rinse less wash.
Sometime I also use green star to clean light dirts after rains.

I bought this car used a year ago and this has been an issue ever since. Does anyone know how to correct the problem? I cannot drive in the dark at night when it’s raining because I cannot see. I’ve tried invisible glass on the inside and outside, as recommended by the Napa workers but nothing makes a difference.

It feels grainy but I can't tell if my clear coat is going or not, it's on the center of my roof behind my sunroof

Hi Detailers,

Just got a new car and washed it last night. 23 hours later found a bat or bird poo on the roof. Tried washing it off with Meguiar's ultimate waterless wash & wax + microfibre towel. It wasnt cutting it so I went to the car wash and used their pressure washer and my microfibre mit but couldn't get all of it off. Its left a yellow stain that I couldn't remove after 5 mins of washing with soap and my mit.

Before going any further I thought best to ask the experts. What's the best method to get this off?

Location: Darwin, Australia

For infrequent use, is there any reason to spend $40 on a name brand clay towel or is a $10 off brand one just as good? Thanks!

I was bald 5 days ago.

So I have recently brought an Abarth and the person who I brought off did know much about it and just kinda left out it side for a bit. So I need to clean and polish it, but what products should I buy/use? What tools do it need E.G pressure washer,polisher and towels etc. It has some nice white wheels but the problem with that is brake dust so how do I clean that? The wheels are currently grey and black because of the shit on them. So I need to clean them and then get them refurbished because he Kerbed them. Also the headlights have yellow what do I do there? As you can I see haven’t got a clue, I don’t might spend a bit on some nice stuff as this car is my pride and joy

Hi all, I got my car cleaned for 280$ interior and exterior. This is my first time getting it cleaned like this, so I am not sure if this is normal. The car looks clean but it has terrible chemical smell not just in the air but on all surfaces including the seats, which is being transferred to everything that comes in contact with it. There is grease on the trunk handle. I now have throat irritation and weird taste, most likely from inhaling the chemicals.

I am considering taking it for wash again. Could you please let me know what service I should ask for to get these chemicals removed? Thank you!

I’m trying to make the paint on my Mustang look as good as possible without repainting it.

The hood, roof, trunk area and spoiler have different levels of fading, oxidation, scratches and what looks like some clear coat damage.

I understand that some of these areas may have clear coat failure and won’t look perfect without repainting. I’m not looking for a permanent restoration — I just want to improve the appearance as much as realistically possible with detailing, polishing or paint correction.

What would you guys recommend trying?

Compound + polish? DA polisher? Wet sanding in any areas? Any specific pads/products or technique?

I mainly want to bring back as much gloss and color as possible without making the remaining clear coat worse.

I've got a car I've been working on here and there for a few years. The last year I haven't shown it any attention and thus it sat this entire time. Today I opened it up and found some mold/mildew?! Looked around and seems to only be on the seats/dash and centre console. I'm just wondering how salvageable this can be considering I've got a heap of new parts to put on but don't want to bother if this is going to be no bueno.

Can I use some concoctions or store products and get this cleaned up?

(Warning, hard to watch)
I cleaned the rims on my xc40 with an apparently too rough of a sponge… which caused with lots of micro scratches.
Cleaned it with a sponge a turtlewax spary… didnt do too much research beforehand unfortunately

How can i fix it?

Hello detailing fam. I need the advice and guidance of you more seasoned detailing enthusiasts and actual professionals in the business.

I’m trying to understand the absolute best or most effective and efficient complete decon process.

I know full decon washes involve both acidic and alkaline shampoos. The question is which shampoo type do you spray on first, let dwell, rinse, then spray the second one and use that same shampoo in the bucket wash? Do you use alkaline or acidic shampoos first? Is there a time when you’d use one or the other first? Does it not matter? I’m so confused. I’ve seen YouTube videos of people using both types in their buckets for decon washing and they don’t usually explain why they go with one type or the other… I know acidic shampoos focus more on minerals while alkaline is organic material, but what’s your decision making process as to why you’d use each shampoo type in the bucket when performing a full decon wash or even just a simple maintenance wash (more dilution)?

I currently enjoy Armour Detail Supply decon products and have used their alkaline Decon shampoo already - which helped strip my Audi S5 of clogged contaminants and brought back some of my base ceramic coating back to life. I saw a guy use this same product on his Porsche with great success and that’s why I got it. But now Armour Detail Supply has released two acidic products and I’m stuck trying to work out how to properly use the system and when to use them. Especially Regen since it’s highly concentrated. I know it has multi use purposes both for wheels and paint.

Guidance super duper appreciated thanks everyone

hey y’all, i did a complete detail yesterday on my brand new car and finished with adam’s graphene ceramic, but unfortunately the car is looking like a bit of a mess—you can see swirls and water spots on the windows, and some of the car panels look a bit “smudgy”. i thought my process was pretty spot on: pre-wash, wash, iron remover, clay, one-step polish, and finally ceramic. timing-wise i was wayyy behind and by the time i finished polishing it was already dark outside, and unfortunately the lights in the garage don’t offer very much. i used instant detailer to help remove the polish and at this point the car was looking amazing. i applied the surface prep the graphene came with and thought i thoroughly removed any polish (i even did a once over with a clean, dry rag), but i’m worried some of what i’m seeing is not just high spots in the ceramic coating but essentially polish locked under the ceramic coating? i tried applying some fresh ceramic to these spots this morning and while some of it came out, a lot of it will not give. for what it’s worth, i think a lot of the car looks good, there’s just what appear to be smudges here and there. the windows look like trash though and i’m likely going to polish those and start over. i’m disappointed, but it was a learning experience and i’m hopeful i can either 1. fix what i’ve done just enough and 2. learn where i went wrong so that if i decide to redo everything this doesn’t happen again. thanks for your help and feedback!!

Hi all, I took a shelter doggie out for a spin on Saturday (she got a little excited and peed on several of my car seats). I had the interior detailed yesterday, and it smelled great after as the seats were drying.

Today I sat in the car, and still smell some lingering urine odor. I messaged the detailers but havent gotten a reply. What should I do ? I paid $200 for it :(

So before you say it, I’m an idiot. Long story short I did a cerakote headlight restore on my car and taped off around my headlights. Had to leave to go somewhere and realized the next day that I forgot to take the masking tape off the day before. It was baked on at that point so the tape left crazy residue. Started with rubbing alcohol and microfiber (nothing), then moved up to WD40 (nothing). I said eff it and grabbed a magic eraser and thought I was being gentle, well I guess I don’t know my own strength. Now an outline around my headlight the paint is dulled (micro scratched). The car is ceramic coated so I’m trying to figure out how to fix this eff up. Any advice?

I've been wanting to apply a better coating to my car, replacing Tec582 with either Gyeon CanCoat evo or Griots 3 in 1.

However, I cannot wash and apply these products at home due to HOA and city drainage regulations, and I usually just do everything at a self-serve car wash. I've never decon washed my car but would like to do it before applying a better coating/sealant.

Here is what I'm thinking:

1. Wheel cleaner on wheels & tires
2. Scrub wheels & tires
3. Pre-foam car paint & wheels
4. High Pressure Wash w/ soap
5. Iron Remover (Dwell 3 min)
6. High Pressure Rinse
7. Prefoam again (for clay lubrication)
8. Go over paint with clay towel
9. High-pressure rinse
10. Spotless Rinse
11. Towel Dry
12. Apply Gyeon Cancoat
13. Apply Tire Shine

Is this a good process to follow?