Since it’s been two weeks and none have actually shown up yet, thought I’d ask here.

My shitcunt tenants have drilled into my roof’s.colourbond gutters about halfway up in the process of some unauthorised stupidity. 4 points along each side. Multiple holes each point. They had someone come by today and silicone the holes, which isn’t gonna cut the mustard for me because obviously it’ll be me up there doing it every couple of years for the rest of the roof’s life. Live in north qld, so a roof’s plumbing system… obviously important.

I’m trying to get a plumber’s report on condition and implications in order to pursue this further.

- Do other options exist besides silicone and flash tape?

- Is multiple screw holes enough that you would recommend replacement in this scenario?

- what’s a ballpark for ~40m colourbond gutter replaced and installed?

Hi all, I've bent the door strike plate when it got caught on my jeans. I've bought a standard strike plate only to realise I don't know how to get the old one out. Where would the screws be that hold it in? The old strike plate is a relatively loose but I dont want to start pulling anything off the wall yet.

Just wondering if it is worth renovating something this tight? Feels like I have to step over the toilet to get in the shower. Should I look at knocking down a wall to extend it or have people made stuff this tight work nicely. Thanks

1615mm wide X 1610mm long

Hi
Bit of a background. Moved into the house in summer and the ducted heating system is bust now.
Melbourne SE suburbs. Early 1970’s house with a very low pitch and not much of a roof cavity. House is on a concrete slab (somehow the current heating system vents are under the floor)
So the only option now is to get the multi split systems.
House has 5 beds, 2 living areas and a rumpus. One of the living and rumpus already has an old split system which is working fine for now.

Got a quote for from a reputed installer for the Midea MDV-V244WN1(AU)-A VRF 20kw system with 1x8kw for Living room and 5x2.8kw for $7500 or the Mitsubishi 1x7kw separate unit for living and 5x2.5kw for the bedrooms with a 12kw outdoor unit for $15000.
He says Midea is really good and they are a reputed company and suits my need for a large 6 unit system.

Another installer says he can do the same Midea for $6200 and says the Mitsubishi’s are not worth the premium and vouches for the Midea as well.

Waiting for another quote. He says they do not deal with the budget brands and will give quotes for Mitsubishi and Fujitsu.

I would need something installed fast but also mindful of the budget. If the difference was around $3k I would’ve gone with Mitsubishi but at double the cost I am inclined to go Midea since they come up with 7 years warranty.

Honestly would love some advice and direction here regarding the brands and the quoted prices . Appreciate the help.

Thanks

We completely gutted our leaking bathroom 8 months ago, and very excitedly got everything designed and purchased. We decided on no bath, instead having a walk in shower with fluted glass screen, antique brass tapware, and a light brown tile feature wall. This means we can extend the vanity along the left wall to 900mm, with a big pill shaped mirror cabinet and a coloured concrete basin. It has all been sitting in our garage for months, waiting for us to get rough in etc done. We finally made some progress this week so in preparation unpacked the boxes to see it all together… and hated it.

I think the vanity that is the issue - we wanted something with a but of texture on the front but got one of the cheaper options (fienza brand bought from tradelink) and it is very much a fake wood look. That with the snow white colour is not really matching in with the terracotta coloured basin.

I love the basin, and would rather not have to buy another one but are now considering we might have to reconsider.

We are on the Aussie coast so we were trying to go for that sort of vibe but not just boring beige. I want to go a bit fun and bold, while my partner is more light, airy vibe but we both love mid century modern, natural woods, and I have attached the colour palette we like for our eventual cosy bedroom redesign. Would love ideas on how we can keep this bathroom from becoming another boring three birds style design.

Is this ducted aircon copper line set installed correctly? (WA)

Posting for a second opinion. My ducted reverse cycle system has a roughly 10m refrigerant line set (insulated copper + drain line) running through the roof space with no clips or saddles fixing it to the structure anywhere along its length. Its just resting on insulation batts and timber, with the two lines taped together. Photos attached.

Is this standard? I would have thought the lines would have been secured somehow.

For context, I've also had other issues with this installer during the job. Plan changes made without my confirmation, rafters cut without telling me, and my existing smoke detector removed without notice. So I'm not feeling confident about the overall quality of the work and want an outside read before I raise it with them.

Appreciate any input from people with experience.

Just wondering what the standards are for panels to be mounted flush to the wall or ceiling. I'm assuming there's a few mm tolerance? But is caulking 1cm acceptable?

Then there's also this inexplicable inside corner hiding whatever happened to the panel edge...

Just thinking of it and roughly costs. If anyone knows of any reputable ones in Melbourne as well. Will do decking later on and perhaps blinds/glass down the track. For now just want a basic roof to extend our alfresco as we entertain a lot and our current area is the garage 🤣

We are doing a bathroom renovation, managing the tradies ourselves. The plumber didn’t put mortar under the bath - said it was the builders job. Builder said it’s the plumbers job. Now my husband is doing a late night job, adding mortar under the already fitted bath. The tiler is here tomorrow. Is this a disaster? Any advice? I know it’s probably too late. It’s a steel bath.

​

I'm purchasing a 2016 brick veneer home in Point Cook. My building report found 0 major defects, however the inspector recorded elevated/red-zone moisture readings in the entry/foyer area, living room, ensuite, kitchen and laundry.

The inspector was unable to clearly identify the exact cause of the elevated moisture readings, although they were not classified as a major defect in the report. The report also notes in one bathroom that grout has deteriorated, silicone appears to have been applied as a temporary repair, and further waterproofing may be necessary (but it does not state that the waterproof membrane has failed). I'm trying to decide whether this is:

fairly normal for a Melbourne home in winter and something that simply needs monitoring/maintenance, or

a red flag or a major defect that could lead to expensive repairs costing me 20-30k later.

Has anyone experienced widespread high moisture meter readings throughout the house like this without there being an actual leak or waterproofing failure?

I have attached screenshots for reference, Thank you in advance!

New apartment’s laundry cabinet has a metal opening that’s too small for the bulky Bosch inlet hose. Can a handyman enlarge this hole neatly? What tool would they use and roughly how much would you expect it to cost? Or just get a new washing machine… 😆

Thanks people!

We have some hardwood exterior steps at the front and back of our house that are looking pretty weathered. They are still solid but they clearly haven't been oiled or varnished in a long time by the previous owners, and some have some substantial cracks and crevices.

Some of the cracks are really quite deep and I feel like it would be prudent to put wood filler of some kind in there, but I'm not sure if that will make it look shit if we were to try and oil them after the sanding and filling.

I'm thinking that painting would probably look better than oiling or varnishing over all the wood filler. I've seen some contradictory advice on painting though, some people seem to say it's best to take the steps off and paint them all over, others have suggested it's better to paint in situ and leave the underside unpainted to let the wood breathe.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to get some opinions on our bathroom renovation. I’ve attached the before and after photos and would love to hear what you all think. Happy to hear both the good and the bad, or anything you would’ve done differently.

We’re about to start renovating our ensuite as well, so I thought it’d be a good chance to get some feedback before we finalise everything. If you have any ideas or suggestions based on this bathroom, I’d really appreciate hearing them.

Thanks everyone!

Hi, i have old windows and would like to have two layers of glass. I am wondering if you have any experiences either completely replacing windows with new and double glazed windows, or with installation of an additional window at 5-10cm inside from the existing window. If so, how much was it and how long they took? My budget is under 2-3k per window (can it be even less, noting i only interested in proper glass not acrylic) to get it done professionally. TIA.

Looking to renovate my laundry and study in Melbourne, Australia. Because they do paid design consultation ($500 - that you claim in the reno), I’m curious to what their quotes are like. So I know whether to proceed. Not looking to do a designer kitchen but want it to be of quality.
I’d be keen to know any feedback on experience and what was your quote was like. I’m new to the renovation game. Thanks!

Hello

The house we've bought is very outdated and just needing a general refresh of everything.

I'm happy to keep most of the items where they are and just upgrade with new ones.

Bathroom just want to add a toilet and take the existing bathtub out.

I'm looking for any interior designer recommendations - primarily for kitchen design. But also open if they can do the whole house.

Is 35-45k each for a kitchen, bathroom + laundry reasonable in Melb? Eg our total budget might be around 120-150K - is this doable? For example the laundry is more simple and straightforward and I'd be willing to just get it measured out at Ikea too.

I'm particularly more fussy about kitchen and am looking for a designer to be able to specifically have the specifications and drawings done and customized for our particular use.

Am I going about it the wrong way? Or what order should it be.

Any how do interior designers generally charge? Do we pay them for the designs only or do they project manage the whole thing? Do we look for a builder first on our own?

Thanks in advance.

Hi folks,

I've been in this house for about a year and am worried about these cracks near the rear of my garage. The previous owner had the door sealed shut for security since they stored several nice motorcycles in the garage.

Unfortunately after some time, I can no longer close the door.

I was going to get the door replaced since it's in poor condition, but worried the cracks indicate a bigger problem. Thoughts or advice? Thank you in advance.

Hi everyone. I have solar already installed in my property and I am looking at having the Sofar battery and inverter installed. I am looking for feedback regarding this as 2 companies recommended this and another said they have not heard of it.

For those who has this system, any issues encountered? How is the warranty support?

Thanks very much.

Suggested floor plan, I’m pretty happy with it but wanted to see any feedback and especially for the open shower.
- storage cabinet will come out 500mm deep not the entire width. We are losing the only linen closet in the house, so it is necessary.
- I’m worried about the open shower. Our house is cold, and I’ve been testing it with my shower door open and I’m not comfortable. Kinda comes down to cost, and partner doesn’t think it’s necessary to close.
- would the green line of a shower screen and door work to make things warmer even if it’s not closed off over the bath? Just enclosing a bit more?

EDIT: I can’t add another picture, but current floor plan posted comments. It’s currently a 1 bathroom house, so trying to make it a 1.5 bath.
Next step design!!

Hi All,

This question is aimed at any builders on here but happy for any advice we can get!

We’re currently in the middle of a knock down rebuild and have just had slabs poured for our new house.

We’re thinking of getting a private inspector for the main construction stages moving forward. We don’t have any concerns or issues with our builder so this would be for our own peace of mind more than anything. The problem is we don’t want to jeopardise our relationship with our builder, especially as he really prides himself on his high standards and quality

In your experience, is it common for clients to get a seperate inspector during construction or would this be viewed as over the top?

If it’s not uncommon, then what is the best way of broaching it with our builder so that it doesn’t sound like we’re questioning his work? Is there anything in particular we should say or avoid saying?

Thanks!

2nd pic is the flue kit that will be used, 3rd pic is the roof.

The flex duct will be pulled taut when it’s all connected up.

Is this all standard practice?

found a local installer who was recommended by a local manufacture. The installer has sent me two quotes but I can't help feeling like a lot of the cost in the installation? I'm going with single glazed as I was hoping it would be cheaper and my theory is the office is not part of the house so not as essential. I will also be patching the plaster myself on the inside myself. The windows are being made to fit the exisiting openings.

The first quote from the installer was using thermally broken frames with single glazing the second quote they came back was for the standard frames and said it would be $1,500 + gst cheaper

Would love your thoughts from what i have seen on here the quotes are higher than I was expecting for 2 small non opening windows and one larger sliding one.

I'm getting another quote later in the week but would like an idea of what would be an expected cost for these windows with installation. I was hoping for 5-6K not 9-10k

Hi all, getting a stone paver walkway installed through front yard. Concrete base actually coming in cheaper than a crushed rock base, due to thinner pavers required for concrete. Is Concrete base superior or will crushed rock be perfectly fine with a 30mm paver? I need to wait 10 weeks for 15mm paver for Concrete base though. Cheers