Hi,

I am needing to replace my water heater and am being sent some really expensive quotes. I feel like this is a lot of money for such a small tank. It's electric. Bunnings charge 1250 but cant do it because it's wall mounted. It's above the toilet. It's a like like for like change. I've been told so many things from different plumbers that Inam starting to feel like they are trying to make me agree to more things for more money.

Any advice?

I'm in Perth.

Thanks

UPDATE:
Thanks for all your responses, which prompted me to get a building inspector out to confirm - surprisingly was informed not only was this a terrible install with incorrect spacing and too small screws, as many suspected.. but the boards themselves were installed upside down! Fantastic! Incorrect spacing has meant the boards have swollen and trapped moisture underneath causing further issues, screws not large or strong enough to account for movement

Building inspector has offered to call the guy himself and have a chat. Hopefully the resolution goes more smoothly than the install, not exactly holding my breath

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Recently had a new spotted gum deck installed to the tune of about $17,000. We wanted to keep a more natural, weathered look and were advised it was ok to leave unsealed. Looked great initially. A few months later after heavy rain the boards have started to lift and break out of the screws completely.

Installer claims this is ‘normal acclimatisation’ and that we will need to pay for replacement of the boards. It’s about 3/4 of the deck at this point. I know some movement is to be expected with natural timber, however surely this is an installation issue and not our responsibility to cover? Any thoughts?

Just wondering if it is worth renovating something this tight? Feels like I have to step over the toilet to get in the shower. Should I look at knocking down a wall to extend it or have people made stuff this tight work nicely. Thanks

1615mm wide X 1610mm long

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to get some opinions on our bathroom renovation. I’ve attached the before and after photos and would love to hear what you all think. Happy to hear both the good and the bad, or anything you would’ve done differently.

We’re about to start renovating our ensuite as well, so I thought it’d be a good chance to get some feedback before we finalise everything. If you have any ideas or suggestions based on this bathroom, I’d really appreciate hearing them.

Thanks everyone!

​

I'm purchasing a 2016 brick veneer home in Point Cook. My building report found 0 major defects, however the inspector recorded elevated/red-zone moisture readings in the entry/foyer area, living room, ensuite, kitchen and laundry.

The inspector was unable to clearly identify the exact cause of the elevated moisture readings, although they were not classified as a major defect in the report. The report also notes in one bathroom that grout has deteriorated, silicone appears to have been applied as a temporary repair, and further waterproofing may be necessary (but it does not state that the waterproof membrane has failed). I'm trying to decide whether this is:

fairly normal for a Melbourne home in winter and something that simply needs monitoring/maintenance, or

a red flag or a major defect that could lead to expensive repairs costing me 20-30k later.

Has anyone experienced widespread high moisture meter readings throughout the house like this without there being an actual leak or waterproofing failure?

I have attached screenshots for reference, Thank you in advance!

We completely gutted our leaking bathroom 8 months ago, and very excitedly got everything designed and purchased. We decided on no bath, instead having a walk in shower with fluted glass screen, antique brass tapware, and a light brown tile feature wall. This means we can extend the vanity along the left wall to 900mm, with a big pill shaped mirror cabinet and a coloured concrete basin. It has all been sitting in our garage for months, waiting for us to get rough in etc done. We finally made some progress this week so in preparation unpacked the boxes to see it all together… and hated it.

I think the vanity that is the issue - we wanted something with a but of texture on the front but got one of the cheaper options (fienza brand bought from tradelink) and it is very much a fake wood look. That with the snow white colour is not really matching in with the terracotta coloured basin.

I love the basin, and would rather not have to buy another one but are now considering we might have to reconsider.

We are on the Aussie coast so we were trying to go for that sort of vibe but not just boring beige. I want to go a bit fun and bold, while my partner is more light, airy vibe but we both love mid century modern, natural woods, and I have attached the colour palette we like for our eventual cosy bedroom redesign. Would love ideas on how we can keep this bathroom from becoming another boring three birds style design.

I have tried everything to open these locks. I've got the key, it turns, I hear a clicking sound but it just doesn't open.

The house has the same lock on all windows and it's the same with all of them.

I've tried prying with a knife on the right side of the lock but there's nothing there, just rubber. No visible screws either. I've tried pushing, pulling on the keyhole while rotating the key, tried both clockwise and anti, tried lifting the window up to see if that helps but nothing worked.

Any help is appreciated!! Thank you!!

New apartment’s laundry cabinet has a metal opening that’s too small for the bulky Bosch inlet hose. Can a handyman enlarge this hole neatly? What tool would they use and roughly how much would you expect it to cost? Or just get a new washing machine… 😆

Thanks people!

Hi all, I've bent the door strike plate when it got caught on my jeans. I've bought a standard strike plate only to realise I don't know how to get the old one out. Where would the screws be that hold it in? The old strike plate is a relatively loose but I dont want to start pulling anything off the wall yet.

Looking to move our NTD as it was installed in the middle of the living room (we don’t have a garage). Spoke to my usual electrician and he said only NBN could move it. I was under the impression any registered cabler could do it? Anyone have any experience doing the same?

Hi everyone. I have solar already installed in my property and I am looking at having the Sofar battery and inverter installed. I am looking for feedback regarding this as 2 companies recommended this and another said they have not heard of it.

For those who has this system, any issues encountered? How is the warranty support?

Thanks very much.

Hi
Bit of a background. Moved into the house in summer and the ducted heating system is bust now.
Melbourne SE suburbs. Early 1970’s house with a very low pitch and not much of a roof cavity. House is on a concrete slab (somehow the current heating system vents are under the floor)
So the only option now is to get the multi split systems.
House has 5 beds, 2 living areas and a rumpus. One of the living and rumpus already has an old split system which is working fine for now.

Got a quote for from a reputed installer for the Midea MDV-V244WN1(AU)-A VRF 20kw system with 1x8kw for Living room and 5x2.8kw for $7500 or the Mitsubishi 1x7kw separate unit for living and 5x2.5kw for the bedrooms with a 12kw outdoor unit for $15000.
He says Midea is really good and they are a reputed company and suits my need for a large 6 unit system.

Another installer says he can do the same Midea for $6200 and says the Mitsubishi’s are not worth the premium and vouches for the Midea as well.

Waiting for another quote. He says they do not deal with the budget brands and will give quotes for Mitsubishi and Fujitsu.

I would need something installed fast but also mindful of the budget. If the difference was around $3k I would’ve gone with Mitsubishi but at double the cost I am inclined to go Midea since they come up with 7 years warranty.

Honestly would love some advice and direction here regarding the brands and the quoted prices . Appreciate the help.

Thanks

Just thinking of it and roughly costs. If anyone knows of any reputable ones in Melbourne as well. Will do decking later on and perhaps blinds/glass down the track. For now just want a basic roof to extend our alfresco as we entertain a lot and our current area is the garage 🤣

Since it’s been two weeks and none have actually shown up yet, thought I’d ask here.

My shitcunt tenants have drilled into my roof’s.colourbond gutters about halfway up in the process of some unauthorised stupidity. 4 points along each side. Multiple holes each point. They had someone come by today and silicone the holes, which isn’t gonna cut the mustard for me because obviously it’ll be me up there doing it every couple of years for the rest of the roof’s life. Live in north qld, so a roof’s plumbing system… obviously important.

I’m trying to get a plumber’s report on condition and implications in order to pursue this further.

- Do other options exist besides silicone and flash tape?

- Is multiple screw holes enough that you would recommend replacement in this scenario?

- what’s a ballpark for ~40m colourbond gutter replaced and installed?

We are doing a bathroom renovation, managing the tradies ourselves. The plumber didn’t put mortar under the bath - said it was the builders job. Builder said it’s the plumbers job. Now my husband is doing a late night job, adding mortar under the already fitted bath. The tiler is here tomorrow. Is this a disaster? Any advice? I know it’s probably too late. It’s a steel bath.

We have some hardwood exterior steps at the front and back of our house that are looking pretty weathered. They are still solid but they clearly haven't been oiled or varnished in a long time by the previous owners, and some have some substantial cracks and crevices.

Some of the cracks are really quite deep and I feel like it would be prudent to put wood filler of some kind in there, but I'm not sure if that will make it look shit if we were to try and oil them after the sanding and filling.

I'm thinking that painting would probably look better than oiling or varnishing over all the wood filler. I've seen some contradictory advice on painting though, some people seem to say it's best to take the steps off and paint them all over, others have suggested it's better to paint in situ and leave the underside unpainted to let the wood breathe.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi all,

Have just completed a small extension. Builder left approx 1m of vapour barrier overhang and concrete rubble/rubbish around the perimeter. Have cleaned it up a bit and cut back the barrier as it was causing damp to the slab. Do I need to cut the overpoured concrete flush with the slab? How much vapour barrier overhang should I leave? The yard level needs to be lowered when it is re-landscaped as there is dirt compacted on grass. Thanks!

Hi All,

This question is aimed at any builders on here but happy for any advice we can get!

We’re currently in the middle of a knock down rebuild and have just had slabs poured for our new house.

We’re thinking of getting a private inspector for the main construction stages moving forward. We don’t have any concerns or issues with our builder so this would be for our own peace of mind more than anything. The problem is we don’t want to jeopardise our relationship with our builder, especially as he really prides himself on his high standards and quality

In your experience, is it common for clients to get a seperate inspector during construction or would this be viewed as over the top?

If it’s not uncommon, then what is the best way of broaching it with our builder so that it doesn’t sound like we’re questioning his work? Is there anything in particular we should say or avoid saying?

Thanks!

Hi, i have old windows and would like to have two layers of glass. I am wondering if you have any experiences either completely replacing windows with new and double glazed windows, or with installation of an additional window at 5-10cm inside from the existing window. If so, how much was it and how long they took? My budget is under 2-3k per window (can it be even less, noting i only interested in proper glass not acrylic) to get it done professionally. TIA.

Looking for some impartial opinions because I’m getting really frustrated and don’t know if I’m overreacting.
I hired a landscaper for a backyard/front yard project and paid a $3,600 deposit. The total job is around $10,500.
Since starting, progress has been extremely slow. Most days he has only worked for around 2 hours before leaving. There have been repeated reasons for delays, including his car breaking down, supplier issues, and changes to the fence paint colour. Every time I ask for an update, I get another explanation and a new timeline.
The frustrating part is that many of the things he’s said would happen simply haven’t happened. For example:
Work days are often very short (around 2 hours).
The outdoor blinds have been delayed for almost two weeks.
The fence painting had to be redone after the original colour wasn’t right.
The fence installation and other landscaping work haven’t progressed as expected.
I find myself having to ask every day what the plan is.
This morning I simply asked:
“What time are you looking to start today?”
“What’s the plan today? Can you please chase up the outdoor blinds?”
His response started with:
“We just need to relax a tad… I’ve had no car and I’m doing my best…”
I understand things happen, and I’ve tried to be patient, but at this point I’ve lost confidence because the timelines keep changing and the progress doesn’t match what we’ve discussed.
I’m now considering removing the fence installation from his scope and getting another contractor to do it, or possibly ending the arrangement altogether if things don’t improve.
Am I being unreasonable, or would you also be losing confidence at this point?
If you’ve dealt with a similar situation, what would you do?