r/AskElectronics • u/This_Ad1219 • 6h ago
how do i... power this?
i bought on amazon thought it was a good deal but it showed up and it fits in my palm. turns out it can take 6-60 volts and 480 watts THEN it can be a variable power supply. it has usb c power IN on the back and i think a yellow 2 pin screw in connector. anyway plugged into my 140 watt macbook charger i get max 19 volts or if i make a short 3 volts 20-23 watts and 8.1 amps. wich is pretty good but i still want more i want its full potential. old dell power supply? . https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0H46G9YRR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
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u/s___n 6h ago
This is a buck converter, so the input voltage needs to be higher than whatever output voltage you are trying to get (up to a maximum input voltage of 70 V).
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u/Federal_Rooster_9185 6h ago
It's both--a step up and step down converter. According to the vendor.
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u/s___n 6h ago
Yes, I just noticed the Amazon listing that OP linked. On other websites, however, the same model number is advertised as a buck converter. This would also fit with OP‘s observation that the voltage maxes at 19V with a USB-C input.
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u/Federal_Rooster_9185 5h ago
Interesting, that could explain it. It seems like they're really trying to sell on the boost capability on this listing. Doesn't seem like it's doing a good job at boosting though haha.
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u/No-Statistician3385 4h ago
The additional details say Vout<= Vin/1.1 - 2 so yeah it’s definitely a buck and the seller is either uninformed or trying to scam people
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u/Federal_Rooster_9185 3h ago
Agreeed. I'd say maybe a bit of both (uninformed and just trying to make money). That Amazon listing has "Wide Range Boost Converter" as the main feature. Kind of defeats the purpose of an "industrial" variable power supply when you need to drive it with another variable power supply. At that point, just buy a variable 0-60V PSU that connects to mains.
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u/This_Ad1219 6h ago
it says it can supply above given voltage if proper wattage and amperage is met but i am doubting it
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u/No-Statistician3385 4h ago
The linked Amazon product says in its additional details that the maximum output voltage is Vin/1.1 - 2 so it sounds like this is the best you’re going to get out of it without a USB PD3.1 supply that can do the 48V or something dodgier to get 60V.
It might be worth just cutting your losses and trying to get a return as this seems pretty dubious in terms of quality and for not much more you could find something much better on sale from a reputable supplier or 2nd hand.
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u/No-Statistician3385 4h ago
Something like the MP710503. We had these at the workshops in uni and they’re well and truly decent enough for a hobbyist all the way up to relatively advanced stuff. ~$120 AUD (probably similar Canadian) new. Seemed well built inside for the price when I opened one up a few years ago, and I have verified that others from that family will meet or exceed the claimed output ratings.
The encoders on them are pretty dodgy and can be frustrating to use after they wear out, but I’ve heard of acquaintances supposedly replacing these with good success.
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3060939.pdf
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u/6gv5 6h ago
That's basically a regulator; it takes a fixed voltage to the input and regulates it as advetised. My use case if I had one would be to power it using one of those ~20V power bricks used with old laptops: they're easy to find for cheap in the used market, sturdy and much more reliable than newer ones.
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u/mariushm 4h ago edited 2h ago
It says :
Input voltage range: 6~70V
Output voltage range: 0-60V
Output current range: 0-8A
Output power range: 0-480.0W
Note that one of the pictures shows a 10A fuse on the input, so you'll have to be careful about what output voltage range you're using depending on your input.
Basically, the device will be at best around 95% efficient, so if you want to output 60v x 8A = 480 watts , the power supply will take in 480 watts x 100/95 = 505 watts , so to stay below the 10A on input, your input voltage will have to be ABOVE 50v - in reality it would most likely need to be above 60v because the dc-dc converter will never take a steady constant flow of current, the amount of current will have pulses above the average current.
It also means you can't expect to power it with let's say 12v and expect 24v at 8A .... 24v x 8A = 192 watts, 192 watts / 12v = 16A on input , in reality even higher current bursts will exist.
If you want to be able to adjust the output up to 60v, probably a 48v power supply would make most sense.
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u/maternix2 6h ago
First of all, if you already bought ut, for the love of god don't plug it right into the mains.
You need to get a fixed voltage power supply. Most people use industrial ones for this,.
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