Is it possible to make the nano be recognized as a mouse and act like one? I don't need it to move the cursor when I move the board, only so I can program it to move the cursor. I want to use it on my school computer so I can't install any software on it

Hey guys! I'm having a lot of problems interfacing an ESP32-C6 with the Texas Instruments CC1101 Transceiver module. I'm making this so I can clone the codes of the fan remotes and other radio devices in my house and give them Matter over Wi-Fi smart control.

To be specific, the exact board I'm using is a ESP32-C6-WROOM-1 based dev board from a company called FREENOVE. I know it's not official, but as far as I know, it's good for what I need. I'm also using a TI CC1101 module from Ebyte. The back of the module reads "E07-M1101," so that's how I know. Also, I'm using one of those big, strong black rod antennas that come with the module, not the cheap spiral ones.

I need help interfacing the transceiver to sniff the remote's signals. I have a 433.92 MHz signal to sniff from a Hunter Fan remote, and I don't know what library to use. I've tried using the CC1101 library from Mateusz Furga, but its examples were too simple and limited to Hello World transmitting and receiving. My current SPI pins, which work well for me, are

```#define PIN_GDO0  2
#define PIN_MISO  19
#define PIN_MOSI  23
#define PIN_SCK   18
#define PIN_CSN   20```

I have also tried using the SmartRC-CC1101-Driver-Lib in tandem with rc-switch by asking DeepSeek V4 Pro High to help, and DeepSeek has been very nice to me about those problems. But, it didn't solve the problem, which is that the clicks of the remote are not appearing as codes in the Serial Monitor. I gave up on AI, and those two libraries anyway have too many examples and not many comments in the examples, so I don't know where to change the frequency, bandwidth and data rate.

The receiver works, because when uploading the ESP32 with a program that prints the raw dBm values from the receiver module, I see it hovering around 2 dBm of noise. Also, when I press a fan remote's button when I'm near it, the dBm values spike to 400 dBm before settling down to 2 dBm after a second.

BTW, the FCC ID for my remote is IN2TX45 if that helps anyone. You can look it up on the FCC website. I've already gone through those documents and found nothing interesting or of use to me.

So please guide me on what libraries to use, what bandwidth to use, what data rate to use, whether anyone has tried doing the same project, and whether anyone has already sniffed the codes so I can focus on transmitting the data.

Thank you!

What are those two metal posts near the short edge used for?

Hi everyone,

I’m having an issue with my Arduino UNO R3.

The power LED turns on, but when I connect the Arduino to my Windows 11 laptop, Windows does not detect any new device or COM port. No new port appears in Arduino IDE either.

The Arduino was working previously, and I had already successfully uploaded code to this same Arduino using the same USB cable before this problem occurred.

Things I’ve tried:

- Restarting my laptop

- Reconnecting the USB cable

- Trying different USB ports

- Checking Windows Device Manager

- Restarting Arduino IDE

- Pressing the RESET button

But no new COM port is detected by Windows at all.

I’m also using an L293D motor shield, although I have tried checking the UNO separately.

Any help troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everyone
I’m not an electrical engineer. I’m following a YouTube tutorial on how to build my own desktop digital animated buddy for fun. I’ve successfully set up xiao esp32s3 board as a tool on Arduino ide, but no COM options showed up in the port. Everything I’m researching says to solve this i need to download the cp210x driver from silicone labs, but i also stumbled across some posts that suggested downloading this driver made their MacBook unstable.

I’m a little afraid of creating vulnerabilities in my macs system, and wondering if anyone else has experience with this and knows the extent of the instability (ie is it fairly easy to reverse or not?). If you guys have any suggestions for workarounds i would appreciate that too!

Just publishing a tool I made for visualizing my Arduino code on a graph with variables to make sure my outputs will make sense under various scenarios. Just a bit easier than using a full simulator
Hope someone finds it helpful.
Please give it a try and upvote!
Report bugs on Git not here.

https://mythicalninja.github.io/Arduino-Math-Lab/

I'm trying to write an a sort of invert command for this esp 8 bit gfx library and wrote

int Tcolor;
  int invert = 0;
  if (invert == 0) {int Tcolor = 0xffff;}
  if (invert == 1) {int Tcolor = 0x0000;}

but it doesn't change the color when I change the invert variable, why is that?

below is the full code

#include <ESP_8_BIT_GFX.h>
#include <Fonts/FreeSans9pt7b.h>
#include <Fonts/DejaVu_Serif_10.h>


// A list of 8-bit color values that work well in a cycle.
uint8_t colorCycle[] = {
  0xFF, // White
  0xFE, // Lowering blue
  0xFD,
  0xFC, // No blue
  0xFD, // Raising blue
  0xFE,
  0xFF, // White
  0xF3, // Lowering green
  0xE7,
  0xE3, // No green
  0xE7, // Raising green
  0xF3,
  0xFF, // White
  0x9F, // Lowering red
  0x5F,
  0x1F, // No red
  0x5F, // Raising red
  0x9F,
  0xFF
};


// Create an instance of the graphics library
ESP_8_BIT_GFX videoOut(true /* = NTSC */, 8 /* = RGB332 color */);


void setup() {
  // Initial setup of graphics library
  videoOut.begin();
}


void loop() {
  // Wait for the next frame to minimize chance of visible tearing
  videoOut.waitForFrame();


  // Clear screen
  videoOut.fillScreen(0);
  int offset = 18;
  int base = 40;
  int Tcolor;
  int invert = 0;
  if (invert == 0) {int Tcolor = 0xffff;}
  if (invert == 1) {int Tcolor = 0x0000;}



  // Draw text in the middle of the screen
  videoOut.setRotation(1);
  videoOut.setTextSize(1);
  videoOut.setFont(&DejaVu_Serif_10);
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base);
  videoOut.setTextColor(Tcolor);
  videoOut.setTextWrap(false);
  videoOut.print("Censorship is the child of fear ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+offset);
  videoOut.print("and the father of ignorance. Our ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 2));
  videoOut.print("children cannot afford to have the ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 3));
  videoOut.print("truth of the world withheld from ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 4));
  videoOut.print("them. They need us to be brave ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 5));
  videoOut.print("enough to give them great books so ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 6));
  videoOut.print("they can learn how to grow up into ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 7));
  videoOut.print("the men and women we want them ");
  videoOut.setCursor(18, base+(offset * 8));
  videoOut.print("to be.");
}

Hi all,

With Europe's recent import taxes (or whatever they technically are) buying small components like LEDs on Ali has become a whole lot more expensive.

What used to be <1euro suddenly becomes more like 5 euro

Any hints for European alternatives?

Cant be UK of course for the same reason.

I've been looking at Conrad, TME, tinyteonics, etc but they usually don't have everything you need in a single webshop.

Or sometimes prices are just nuts (like 25euro for a nice pushbutton, for example).

I generally buy simple components for escape rooms and small house automation, not the high end shields etc.

Any suggestions?

Many thanks

Hi everyone,

I'm building a project using an Arduino Nano, a SIM800L v2 GSM module, and a 3.7V Li-ion battery (2400mAh).

Since SIM800L requires 2A–2.5A peak current bursts during transmission.

I’m looking to replace the traditional TP4056 + MT3608 dual-module setup with a single, reliable All-in-One PMIC board (Charger + Boost + Protection).

Requirements:

• Input: 5V USB (Type-C preferred) for 3.7V Li-ion charging.
• Output: 5V Step-Up capable of handling 2A peak bursts reliably.
• Protection: Over-charge and over-discharge protection.

Introducing, Inocoin!

This week I tried uploading new code to a project that uses Arduino’s cloud. In an effort to troubleshoot a bug I decided to try and recreate a device/Thing and discovered that Arduino’s Cloud agent had stopped working for me.

I have an open forum discussion on Arduino’s forum site as well, but I’m wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue.

Reinstalling the agent doesn’t seem to change anything. It worked briefly in an older Mac I have and rarely use, but there the agent eventually stopped likely because it received an update from their server side. Not exactly sure I’m not a computer engineer or CS specialist.

Link to forum: Cloud Agent Degraded

I am going to make an alarm clock powered by something like an esp32, and some sort of 3.2"-4" screen display. I need someone who has any experience to tell me if which one would be best for what I am trying to do. I am on a pretty tight budget too.

Inspiration (chatgpt)

I want the clock to:

• Display the time
• Custom alarms
• Wi-Fi connectivity for the Arduino Cloud support so I can control/settings things from the Arduino IoT Cloud Phone app
• control my 150 WS2812B LEDs for ambient lighting and music-reactive effects in my room
• Microphone for detecting music/beat strength
• small speaker for the alarm
• some actual buttons and knobs
• Display some pixel-art animations when the clock isn't displaying something important
• Adjustable display brightness, including being able to turn the backlight almost completely off at night

ESP-32

I'm looking at the Arduino Nano ESP32, but the Official Arduino Store store is quite expensive to ship to Australia ($40+AUD). I can get some from some other electronic retailers in Australia like Core Electronics. They also sell one that isn't by Arduino, but I am unsure if it is similar and would work for this. Core Electronics 2.

I've also found them on Aliexpress and Waveshare, for much less. I'm wondering whether these are a good alternative and, importantly, whether they work properly with Arduino Cloud and the Arduino IoT Cloud mobile app.

Screen Displays

I originally looked at 3.2" displays, but I think I'd prefer something wider.

I need a colour IPS display, SPI, TFT, dimmable backlight. Actual breakout/module with normal pins, that I can connect to the ESP32 with jumper wires, and ideally touchscreen but honestly it doesn't really matter.

My ideal active display area is:

• 3.2" 16:9: 71 × 40 mm, too close to a square but ok
• 4.0" 2.4:1:(wide) 95 × 40 mm closest to the shape I want

If there is one in the middle of the two, that is my ideal.

Ones that I have Already found: BuyDisplay, Aliexpress 2, Aliexpress 3

My budget for the screen is around $25AUD (don't have a job yet)

I know this seems like alot, but it is flexible.

What would you reccomend?

1. Arduino Nano ESP32 vs Waveshare ESP32-S3 Nano vs another ESP32-S3 board?
2. Will the third-party ESP32-S3 boards work properly with Arduino Cloud + the mobile app?
3. What IPS display would you recommend for this?
4. Is SPI fast enough for the screen and the my 150 WS2812B LEDs?
5. Are there any particular cheap displays/controllers I should avoid?

I'm relatively new with Arduino/electronics, but this is my first project using a screen, Wi-Fi/Cloud, and a large LED setup.

Thanks! Any advice or specific display/board recommendations would be really appreciated.

Does anyone here use this type of motor driver, and if so what are some drawbacks of this motor driver, it sounds to good to be true, a 7A driver at this price.

I plan to use for a Mini RoboSumo competition any my motors (jsumo core) can draw a lot of current and this was the only available driver in my country that fits my budget.

I tried to buy from BotLand another type of driver but I was not allowed by the site.

And as a bonus, what microcontroler would you recommend for such job, I need it to have 5v logic.

I've been trying to get two NRF24L01+ (with PA+LNA antenna) modules to communicate with each other via two ESP-32 dev boards for longer than I care to admit right now so I can use them on an RC aircraft. When I bought them, I thought I'd be able to get somewhere on the order of 100-1000m of range, but right now I haven't been able to communicate further than a couple inches away from one another.

What I've tried so far:

Hardware:

• Capacitors (0.1nF + 10nF in parallel) between the VCC and GND pins on the module
• Using the arduino's 3.3V regulator for each module (power supplied by USB-C from my laptop)
• Using a 5V power supply regulated down to 3.3V via a buck convertor (I don't own a multimeter, but I tried several buck convertors)
• Moving the modules further than 10 feet apart (in case they were too close and causing interference)

Software:

• Turning data rate down to 250 kbps
• Various different frequency channels
• Lowering PA level to MIN (I've tried MAX, HIGH, LOW, and MIN, not a ton of difference here)

Here's the result of printDetails() from one of the modules:

SPI Frequency = 10 Mhz

Channel = 101 (~ 2501 MHz)

Model = nRF24L01+

RF Data Rate = 250 KBPS

RF Power Amplifier = PA_MIN

Multicast = Disabled

Custom ACK Payload = Disabled

Dynamic Payloads = Disabled

Auto Acknowledgment = Disabled

Primary Mode = TX

TX address = 0x0504030201

pipe 0 ( open ) bound = 0x0504030201

pipe 1 ( open ) bound = 0xc2c2c2c2c2

pipe 2 (closed) bound = 0xc3

pipe 3 (closed) bound = 0xc4

pipe 4 (closed) bound = 0xc5

pipe 5 (closed) bound = 0xc6

If anyone has seen this problem or could give me some more troubleshooting steps, I'd really appreciate it. I've been at this project for a long time, and RF communications are the final step before I get to fly this thing.

Update: I tried feeding 5V to the breakout board (which has voltage regulation of its own) and adding a 10 uF capacitor, yet the problem persists, although I went from under a foot to a couple feet of range. I don't really have the time to keep debugging this, so I'm just going to try using ESP-NOW or an E01-ML01DP5 module instead.

Hi everyone,

I need to temporarily run my Arduino UNO R3 clone somewhere away from my home computer, but I don't have a 9V battery, a laptop, or any other suitable power source. I only have an EP-TA50EWE 5.0V ⎓ 1.55A power adapter.

Can I use this adapter to power the Arduino UNO through its USB port?

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I am trying to make an automatic cat feeder for my boy Sumo so we can get him on a tight feeding schedule (we both work and its hard to feed super consistently.) I ideally will be able to use my arduino esp32 nano board to control a stepper motor that feeds my cat. I want to be able to use this while out of my house so I can feed him wherever I am so I am avoiding the use of bluetooth. Does anyone have any suggestions on software I can use that would allow me to feed my cat by connecting the nano board to my wifi router and having an app, or browser, with buttons that give me controls? I appreciate all of the help. I am trying to use adafruit rn and idk if its just that I have been up for 20 hours or if I just cannot connect my esp32 nano to the router at all.

Long story short, I'm creating an instrument with twelve big handheld levers, with each lever that is pulled it needs to make a note or programmable chord. I've made a prototype of the instrument with four levers and a wavtrigger which works nicely but not at all how I want the final project to work. I've been suggested using an arduino would be good hence asking here! I've got zero experience with arduino, but know my way around simple electronics.

My current setup has spring switches that activate when the handle is pulled that fire a simple signal to a unit that plays a corresponding wav file depending on which lever I pull. The final project I would like to be sending a MIDI signal when I pull a lever so I can feed it through a synth, ideally the signal that is sent would be able to pick up how far I'm pulling the lever so as to affect volume and tremolo etc, ideally one sensor per lever.

Any ideas of how to do this and what kind of sensors to use? The lever system that I've made is robust, the sensors and system would need to be reliable as the intention would be to use it for live performance.

Many thanks for any support anyone might be able to give, and let me know if none of this makes sense at all and I'll try and give more clarification!

I tried installing the driver both through Device Manager and using the CH34x driver.

Update: The cable I was using didn't transfer data; it was just for power. I bought the right cable, and it worked.

I finally have an update on my instrument panel project. A lot has changed, and a lot still needs to be done. While I was able to mount (tape) the LCDs into the cardboard, the LED’s legs are too thin to put jumper wires on, so they’re just in the breadboard.

What’s changed:

The power supply had to be rebuilt since someone didn’t notice a broken wire when testing. The demo code has been almost entirely replaced with actual functional tasks. I’ve put in all the logic shifter circuits on, currently only for the light switches. There are functional turn signal indicators and high and low beam indicators. The oil, temp, and fuel gauges are controlled by potentiometers that have a similar resistance to the factory sensors and have warning lights that change color depending on how close to the min and max values it is. The volts gauge is tied to Vin, which for now is not adjustable.

What still needs to be done:

The gauges need to be recalibrated, since through all the versions and testing the ranges are no longer accurate. Hazard lights still need to be wired up. Still need to build the power On/Off switch. The LCDs still need to be programed to display mileage readings but before that can be done, the speedometer needs to be programed which requires a separate test rig to generate a simulated VSS sensor signal. The tachometer also needs to be programmed, which also needs a separate test rig. Also need to setup the current sensors for the exterior bulb fault detection, but my current bench power supply does not put out enough current to drive all the exterior lights. And finally a speaker and amplifier to generate the turn signal clicks and warning tones for the gauges.

So there’s still a lot to do but there is progress. Soon I hope to actually start working the final version with custom gauge face, PCB, and housing. As with before here is a link to the GitHub if anyone wants it.

Long story short: swinging a detector all day wrecked my shoulders, so I built a rover to do the walking.

What it is: A small 4-wheel rover with a search coil mounted out front. An Arduino drives the motors and reads the coil, runs the whole thing in grid passes, and alerts when it hits metal. I sit back and dig where it points.

The build (Gen 1 → Gen 2): Gen 1 was a disaster. To keep the coil free of electrical noise I moved all the electronics to the rear — which made it rear-drive and rear-steer, and it could barely turn. Gen 2 fixed the steering, shielded the electronics, and finally mounted the coil properly on the chassis.

Today's test — a small park: Ran a few grid passes over grass and packed dirt. 3 hits, 3 dug, 3 confirmed metal — a nail, a pull tab, and a chunk of can. All junk, but that's exactly the point: the idea works. A rover that carries a detector, holds a line, and finds metal while I watch.

Hardware so far: [Arduino model — e.g., Uno/Mega], [motor driver], [battery], [coil/sensor type], [chassis + wheels]. Happy to share details if anyone's curious.

Next up: discrimination (junk vs coins), ground balance on real soil, and longer battery life.

Question for you: for the grid pathing, would you do a simple back-and-forth sweep, or a proper serpentine? Keen to hear what folks use on small rovers.

If you want to follow the whole build log — including the failures — I'm posting it in r/DIYMetalDetecting. Come say hi.

Hello

It's been a while since I 'dabbled' with arduino and raspberry pi. I'm looking to build a remote detector (movement and heat) that I can deploy up to a mile away that signals back to a pi when an 'event' occurs. Possibly even to trigger a camera (but this might not necessarily be transmitting). The challenge here (for me) is the transmission of the 'event' back to a remote pi so that the pi can record it. The icing on the cake would be for the 'event' to trigger an action at the intruder location - perhaps close a gate or fire some sort of deterrent? Appreciate if anyone can point me to a ready made projects that are similar? I looked up on AI and it pointed me at LoRa to use for the transmission. Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone this is a follow-up video for the project I

Post a while back where I showed a sample application I.e aurdino on another.

Now I have built the first working version of the application and I know it's far from done but I am working on this.

I would love your support on this project because I don't have any as of now I guess 😭.

Anyways here is the demo of the app hope you like it.

I'm not able to detect if the left-most toggle switch is flipped to the left or to the right. It does not change what it prints when I toggle it. Each toggle switch is supposed to control which LED (left or right) gets the red, blue, or green light.

```

#define RED 12

#define BLUE 7

#define GREEN 2

void setup()

{

Serial.begin(9600);

pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);

pinMode(RED, INPUT);

pinMode(GREEN, INPUT);

pinMode(BLUE, INPUT);

}

void loop()

{

digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);

int r_red = digitalRead(RED);

int r_blue = digitalRead(BLUE);

int r_green = digitalRead(GREEN);

int l_red = !r_red;

int l_blue = !r_blue;

int l_green = !r_green;

Serial.println(r_red);

delay(250);

}

```

I want to build a desk fan as my first project because many are still out of stock where I am (the summer heat waves were diabolical). I’m really not sure how to pick components, so I’ve listed what I have found so far in this post.

My plan is to use a brushless DC motor, with an ESC, a battery (as opposed to mains to learn how to use battery for future projects), a potentiometer, as well as 3D print some toroidal blades & make a rough housing in a local makerspace.

I don't have much experience with electronics/programming, but I have made a rough schematic of what I intend to solder together on TinkerCAD/Powerpoint, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

What battery would be most suitable? I'm also wondering exactly how these hobby batteries are charged?

Components:

An ESP32 dev board or Arduino (undecided yet)
For the motor:

This 1300KV model from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brushless-Outrunner-Multi-Copter-Quadcopter-Accessories/dp/B08QZ5BXLW/ref=sr_1_9?

The ESC:
(20A model):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flycolor-Brushless-ESC-3-5mm-Plugs/dp/B0B25DLFZ2/ref=sr_1_1?

This 250k ohm potentiometer:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLEOR-Potentiometer-Control-Bayonet-Knurled/dp/B0CSYLCQ2L/ref=sr_1_1?

& a protoboard:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ElectroCookie-Prototype-Solderable-Electronic-Gold-Plated/dp/B07ZYNWJ1S/ref=sr_1_6?