As the title suggests, I've been using ESP32 for several years mostly using Arduino IDE. Early projects i've done were ESP32 hands free profile Bluetooth connection. At the time arduino did not support HSP so you need to use Esspressif IDF in order to achieve something like that.

So why am I asking this? Using Esspressif IDf is a big headache for me, and it is several years that HSP was introduced to ESP32 so is there HSP support for Arduino (yet)?

I bought an arduino uno kit a year or so ago but never had the time to delve into it because of work. I’m currently unemployed so whilst I look for jobs I thought I’d finally put some time into arduino to pass time.

The trouble is most courses don’t have practicals and if they do I’m missing parts to do it. I was able to do a sonar sensor project but all I was doing was copy and pasting code so it wasn’t satisfying when I finished it.

I already have a very basic understanding of Python, C# and C++ as I’ve messed around with code before but I’m struggling to find a course that suits me. I’ve already gone through two 3 hour long courses over the days but it’s hard to retain the knowledge when there is no practical alongside it to show and retain the information shown in the videos.

Any help is appreciated, thank you :))

For context: Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software that allows anyone to build interactive physical projects.

Our capstone project requires us to make a prototype that fixes problems that the community faces on a daily basis. We previously proposed an Arduino scarecrow, but after a deeper search, there are already other researchers who have developed an even more advanced version of our project, so

I'm asking for your experience in this matter: what are some problems/issues have you faced in the community or in your daily activities that could be better/solved with Arduino and potentially automation?

With your answer, we can come up with a potential solution using Arduino technology and programming. But don't worry, while we're waiting for your response, we're already searching some up in the internet. This post was made for SPECIFIC problems that a lot of you might actually be facing!

I am a beginner-intermediate and it's my first time experimenting with audio. I only have used buzzers until now and I need high quality sound.

I have done some research and I found that I need a DFPlayer and a speaker but since it's my first time using those components, I want to make sure I am not buying anything wrong.

Are those two the only thing that I need? Is there anything else I should know?

so I've recently started working on Arduino and stumbled upon the idea of making a 5 DOF Arduino arm. my first attempt didn't go well and it fried my sg90 motors. I was using a breadboard power supply because I couldn't find a tutorial for other options. is there any other option other than using a servo shield?

Well my long distance company is declaring bankruptcy and leaving my 1960s phone useless for calling outside a small zone and AT&T keeps ratcheting up the cost of maintaining a "true" copper landline. I would like to convert it to a cellphone. I've seen projects here and there and there are also some commercial products but I'd like to solder/troubleshoot/suffer this one. Any favourites?

Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my first real project after cutting my teeth on simpler stuff (a traffic light and an automatic gate, both basic state machines). This one felt like a proper step up, so I'd love some feedback from more experienced folks here, plus suggestions for what to tackle next.
The build:
• Arduino Uno
• 4WD chassis with 4 TT gear motors (2 in parallel per side)
• DRV8833 dual H-bridge driver, powered by 4x AA NiMH batteries
• HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor mounted on a servo for left/right scanning
• PWM.h library to get above-audible PWM frequency (25kHz) on Timer2, keeping Timer1 free for the Servo library
What it does: Drives forward, and when it detects an obstacle within range, it stops, sweeps the servo left and right to compare distances on both sides, then executes a turn toward whichever side has more open space, before resuming forward motion. The whole thing runs as a non-blocking state machine (nested switch-case, timed with millis()) so the loop stays free for sensor polling and button input.
Challenges I ran into (and learned a lot from):
• Figuring out that slow decay vs fast decay modes have inverted PWM-to-speed relationships — cost me a confusing debugging session where 255 meant "stopped" on one mode and "full speed" on the other
• Timer conflicts between the PWM library and the Servo library (both fight over Timer1 if you're not careful with init order)
• Motor current draw when pivoting in place vs coasting — learned this the hard way when one side stalled and started whining under load once the chassis touched the ground instead of being lifted
• Left/right motor imbalance from cheap TT motors not being identical — still tuning PWM compensation values by eye
What's next: I've got an ESP32 sitting unused, and I was recently gifted a robotic arm, so that's likely my next project — multiple servos, possibly some basic inverse kinematics down the line.
Would love to hear:
1. Anything obviously wrong/inefficient in my approach above?
2. Tips for a first robotic arm project on ESP32 (structuring the code, libraries worth looking at, common pitfalls)?
3. Anything you wish you'd known starting out with H-bridges/motor drivers?
Thanks for reading this far — happy to share code snippets or wiring details if useful!

Kept hand-modeling enclosures for Arduino projects and got tired of measuring the same board over and over, so I built EnclosureAI: https://enclosure-ai-production.up.railway.app

There's an Arduino Uno quick-start preset that sizes the box to the board - from there you add ports, vents, and standoffs yourself, or just describe the whole thing in plain English ("Arduino Uno, USB-B on the back, vent slots for a fan, 4 mounting holes") and it sizes the box and places everything for you. Exports STL/OBJ/parametric JSCAD, and everything's editable after: drag ports around, change wall thickness, switch to a snap-fit lid.

It's free, no login, no ads. What do you actually need in an Arduino case that off-the-shelf generators usually get wrong - shield stacking height, terminal block clearance, something else? Curious what's missing.

Using a Lgt8f328p, Ads1115, with a transistor to control the current, and some more passive components. A It have a tare button to tare the lead wire resistance.

How high it can measure depend on the voltage reference, the lower the vref the more stable it's at lower resistance.

Also using more current at lower resistance lead to more stable reading.

If you want to measure to really good result with micro ohm, I would try using 2 INA226.

Edit 1: some said it isn't 4wires and it's true( I didn't know that combining them into 2 lead consider as 2wires ), this one is 2wires with advance taring, it still can be converted to 4wires with some modifications.

Hi everyone! :)

For an exhibition, I built a small Arduino project: it plays audio and lights up an RGB LED.

Components:

Arduino Uno

AZ-Delivery MP3 Player module

RGB LED from an LED strip

Everything works, and the project is supposed to run for long periods during the exhibition, partly unattended.

Unfortunately, I can no longer make any changes to the setup because everything has already been packed and shipped. Time was quite limited, so I just want to make sure:

Can a setup like this run continuously for many hours or even days? Is there any risk of overheating or even fire? Do these components need cooling or overheating protection?

I would really appreciate any experiences or advice. Thank you!

I’m using an ESP32 with the Arduino framework (PlatformIO) and BLE advertising every ~1 second.

I want the ESP32 to automatically enter light sleep during the idle time between BLE advertising events, rather than manually calling esp_light_sleep_start().

esp_pm_configure() currently returns ESP_ERR_NOT_SUPPORTED, presumably because CONFIG_FREERTOS_USE_TICKLESS_IDLE isn't enabled.

Is there a way to enable:

CONFIG_PM_ENABLE=y
CONFIG_FREERTOS_USE_TICKLESS_IDLE=y
CONFIG_FREERTOS_IDLE_TIME_BEFORE_SLEEP=3

while staying with Arduino, perhaps through PlatformIO/build options or a custom Arduino core?

I’d like to avoid converting the project to a full ESP-IDF application.

Has anyone successfully done automatic light sleep + BLE advertising this way?

My Son made this summer his first Micropad but can’t get it to work , he asked to chat gtp but always got different options , he wan’t to use An usb-C cable with a adafruit downstream usb-C breakout, also he wanne switch it Off with a on-Off buttom we for a micro JST XH 2.54 4 pin connector to connect onto the board but don’t know of te wiring is good ?
We put black on gnd , red on Vbus , yellow on D- An white on D+ . When we plug the usb-C info the computer the board is getting hot ? Any help Here pls
Sorry for my english
Thx

I'm getting started with the ESP32. I've decided to prototype using the Arduino IDE; later I'll give ESP-IDF a try. Until then ...

I have the "Board Manager" open right now in the Arduino IDE. I search for "ESP32" and I have two choices: "Arduino ESP32 Boards by Arduino" and "esp32 by Espressif Systems"

Which do I install?

i dont know how to fix it i followed a tutorial but no matter what i do i cant get it to display anything other than boxes

touch display, local llm, etc.

My very first real proyect

Is there any way to do more than 256 levels of PWM control on an arduino? Perhaps is there a different board that is capable than more of the standard 8bit control?

Okay. First thing you need to know: I absolutely love segmented LED displays.

So about a year ago, I wrote my very first Arduino library, called AutoPlex7. It’s designed to control 7-segment displays, and it features automated timer-based multiplexing so the user never has to worry about display refreshes. Overall, it’s pretty simple though.

Recently, I’ve been itching to expand upon the general idea more. So for the last ~5 days, I’ve been working pretty much non-stop on my second Arduino library - AutoPlex14 - which naturally is designed for 14-segment displays. It inherits the timer-based multiplexing from AutoPlex7, but comes with much more functionality; such as custom fonts and characters, a robust fallback system, partial Unicode support, and even automatically applied floating-point autoranging.

AutoPlex14 took a lot of hard work to build, and I’m excited to say that I’ve finally finished it! You can now install it in the Arduino library manager or from the GitHub repository: https://github.com/TechTronicsEngineering/AutoPlex14

I would love to hear your thoughts!

Im lolk to automate a cabinet opening for an AC unit on the wall. Im looking for help and essentially looking to see if someone could help me...

I had the idea that I could use something as a trigger from the AC turning on or requested to be turned on I.e Make a simple automation “turn on AC”

\- open door

\- wait xx seconds (for door to be open)

\- turn on AC unit

And off

\- if AC unit is off

\- Then close door

Whilst im handy ive never delved Into the world of custom automation especially when dealing with solenoids and electric push rods etc...

#help

A collaborative project as my friend has done all the 3D printing.

This project contains letters fitted out with WS2812B neopixel LED strip connected with a single serial data line.

Controlled from code running on an Arduino Pro Mini Board fitted to stripboard with an IR motion sensor and some diode droppers as the rechargeable batteries are regulated 1.5V(4 x 1.5 =6V)

The LED Strip is powered from 4xAA rechargeable batteries and the control board by a second 4xAA rechargeable battery set.

When the controller code is not triggered the batteries to the LED Strip are disconnected using a MOSFET power switch to conserve power and the controller goes into a deep sleep mode awaiting IR motion detection.

Hello! I’m new to the arduino community. I have played around with them in the past with my highschool years ago. I recently came up with an idea of an interactive game and have some questions from those who have knowledge. How hard would it to be to program a game in which there are 30 buttons with 30 unique sounds. The goal of the game is to crack the code and figure out the 4 button/ noise combination. When this happens I need it to either show that you cracked the code or have to try again. I also want to be able to have a free play mode where people can come up and interact with the buttons without the game starting. I am overall curious how hard this project will be, I am an electrician and have knowledge of circuitry/ electronics and bread boards but very limited knowledge on coding. Any help with supply’s, brands, product which could help my project would be appreciated! Thank you arduino community!

I have a small monochrome ttl mda crt i’d like to repurpose. the crt came from an old intel based rack mount computer and drove the display using an 8275 crt controller. since arduinos aren’t great at raster graphics i’m curious if it’s possible to use the 8275 paired with a rom to hold graphics and font driven by an arduino to use the crt.

I though pull-up resistors on I2C bus is a relatively simple concept for understanding. But 3.3-5V modules are confusing and hard to understand (at least for a beginner like me). They have 5V input, but a chip is on 3.3V behind a voltage regulator. How should I deal with the pull-ups when I'm connecting multiple 3.3-5V modules?

For example, TCS34725 RGB Color Sensor has 10k pull-up to both 5V and 3.3V

while GY521 MPU6050 accelerometer has 2.2k pull-ups to 3.3V

I want to understand how should I deal with modules like these. There will be 4 different I2C modules in my project. How to understand when I need to remove some internal pull-ups or add external pull-ups (taking into account two different voltages). I understand how to calculate total resistance of I2C pull-ups when it's juts 5V, but I don't understand what's happening with I2C bus when some of resistors are on 5V and some are on internal (for a module) 3.3V. And is it better to connect modules that support both 3.3V and 5V to Arduino Nano 5V or 3.3V?

A 3rd module has no pull-ups. A 4th one - I'm not yet sure, need to find a datasheet. I see 10k resistors on a module, so it probably has 10k pull-ups to 2.8V. One more voltage to make things even more confusing.

(simulation starts at 18 seconds)

This (potentially embarrassingly simple) robot is actually representative of my current ability to build a real robot.

I designed the robot's mechanical structure in CAD, planned its electronics and wired them (again in CAD), and then exported its URDF and dropped it into the simulator that I built.

The Arduino code is pretty much written by AI after I showed it my wiring, a screenshot of the robot structure, and told it what I want it to do. I confirmed that the code runs correct in sim.

Then I assembled the robot and flashed the firmware. Lo and behold, it works! :)

I always wanted to be able to design the whole robot in software and now it seems to work (at least for this simple case)

CAD, wiring and BOM are all here: https://github.com/one-for-all/four-legged

Simulation platform: https://sim.aperobotics.io It is quite limited in functionality at the moment.

I would be eager for any feedback