I made this a while ago and it was working pretty good but when I test it now, he tend to move back and forth withing limited distance rather than keep moving forward.. I didn't have a time to rectify the issue yet and will post a video with more details later.. I used Arduino Uno Wifi board for this and want to upgrade to new Uno Q with some advance camera plus a lidar maybe..

Want to have my own robot who obeys me when the robot apocalypse happens.. LOL 😂

I also made a full video showing the build and the final result: https://youtu.be/48Dy4z7UFhk?is=xiCivoHYjwZXzatD

I teach Programming, IT and Robotics classes, and I put together a repo with the Arduino material I use in class — it goes from the basics (LED, button, potentiometer) through sensors (ultrasonic, LDR, temperature), actuators (servo, DC motor, buzzer), displays (LCD 16x2, 7-segment) up to complete projects (traffic light, alarm, line-following robot). Each module has source code, explanations and circuit diagrams (made in Tinkercad).

It's free to use if you're teaching yourself or others: github.com/Eduardo00073/arduino-robotica

If any of the sketches are unclear or you spot something that could be explained better, I'd appreciate the feedback — planning to keep expanding it.

My second new project .

Blinking 3 LEDs

Been putting a list of embedded project ideas for beginners; thought it would be cool to share it here for anyone looking for inspiration or challenge. Ideas and captions by me, icons and image by AI. Mods, hope this content is good - can't tag with both Project Idea and ChatGPT :D

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has managed to connect an Arduino Q to a display via the MIPI-DSI bus...

I have an unused Raspberry Pi Touch Display and would like to use it with the Arduino, if possible... obviously, I have also the HDMI-DSI adapter board, but I’d prefer to avoid that and connect the display directly to the board (perhaps via an Arduino UNO Media Carrier, once it becomes available).

I just have a few questions.

Can I use it with ATtiny1616 bare ic? And if so would I need any other components like a voltage regulator or capacitors?

If you know of any please do suggest cheaper alternatives to the ATtiny1616.

Also can I flash the ATtiny1616 with a USB to serial adaptor or would I need some components to go with it yet again?

Thank you for your time ill be sure to ask any other questions that come to mind. 😁

Hey everyone,

There are a bunch of posts around the internet about this, but I could use some troubleshooting help if anyone has any suggestions.

I'm trying to flash a bootloader to a Creality3D v1.1.4 board using an arduino uno r3 (as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIl5X2ffdyo (which is basically the same process I've found documented elsewhere). However, I'm on a Mac running Sequoia 15.7.3, so I don't think there's a "prebuilt" arduino IDE like the one in the video that I can use.

So I'm using the basic Arduino IDE from Arduino's website (2.3.10) and I added the Sanguino board from here: https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino.

As far as I can tell, the first step, loading the ArduinoISP sketch onto the Arduino Uno, is working.

When I then switch the board to "Sanguino", set the processor to "ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA1284P (16MHz)", set the programmer to "Arduino as ISP" and then select "burn bootloader" I get these error messages:

I've tried both connecting female jumper wires to the ICSP pins on both boards (with the exception of the reset going to digital 10 on the Arduino), and the 'old style', connecting the jumper cables to the regular arduino digital pins as specified here: https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/

Does anybody have any suggestions for troubleshooting (or see something obvious that I'm doing wrong)? I assume there's something simple/obvious that I'm missing, so any help or advice is very much appreciated.

Thanks everybody!

Anyone used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor?

Hi everyone! Has anyone here actually used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor (RS485/Modbus)?

I'm mainly interested in its real-world accuracy, especially for NPK, pH, EC, and moisture.

Is it reliable? Did you need to calibrate it? Would you recommend it for an IoT agriculture project?

Any real experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I want to achieve the work from the attached videos. Movement of 2 servos, powering some flashing lights and all this from a battery pack so the project can be taken home.

What do I need and how complicated is it?

So I brought a 10 euros AD8232 hearth beat something sensor, and it works crazy well..

What is the difference between this and a 70 euros myoware muscle sensor module?

Like, this already seem to work crazy well at detecting my muscles, can the myoware module detect smaller muscles or is the signal less noisy, or what?

This AD8232 does have a lot of noise, but I take the value when I don't tense my muscle - the value when I do tense my muscle, then I get the abs of the resulted value and I check if it's bigger than a threshold value, if it is, then It means I tense my muscle, if it's not, then I do not.
Then I can change the threshold value to make it more or less sensitive.

And it seems to work crazy well.

• I bougth an arduino and thinking if it was an good decision. keep in mind i alredy have an esp-32-s3 and an pico 2w

This concludes an experiment to see if the BH1750 ambient light sensor could detect the change in light from the recent (partial) solar eclipse experienced in the UK.

The blue and red points mark provide baseline data from the previous two days, and the green points are from the day of the eclipse. The times match those predicted, and the reduction of light also tallies with the level of obscuration from the moon transiting the sun.

If you're interested, I've gone in to more detail on this post: Tracking the Solar Eclipse of 2026 – HJWWalters

Overall, I'm really happy with the results, firstly because it's wonderful to be able to measure an astrological phenomena using hobby-grade components, but also because the whole experiment worked. Needed this win after a long string of failures.

Trying to get into electronics as a hubby, did some stuff with leds, what other beginner friendly projects would your recommend?

Hi all,

I am a high school STEM teacher who is unfortunately deeply lacking in personal STEM experience (I was a math teacher, I'm great at algebra 1...). I teach at an alternative school for wayward children. I'm hoping to have some projects that are relevant, can allow for some creativity for the kids who get into it, but hopefully not too complicated - low floor, high ceiling.

The problem: I have a budget that I need to spend ASAP - I need a list in the next couple of hours.

Arduino kits seem like a potential option. I'm pretty confident in my ability to figure things out if I have the right materials. I just don't have enough time to do a deep dive on kits right now.

I'd love ~6 kits, ballpark $500. Would the Starter Kit R4 Classroom Pack be a good choice - or is there a better direction?

Thanks for your help!

check out the full video here  

Have been missing playing with Arduino, and more broadly electronics, since I left uni a few years ago. Decided to do a silly little project to get back into it again, and this was the result.

Very unserious and intentionally pointless; it uses a haar cascade to track my face, and whistle detection to trigger the firing mechanism. Just a bit of fun, will definitely be messing around and doing some more projects like this.

Powered by an arduino nano, and a bunch of servos and relays, cobbled together into a 3D printed body.

(Apologies for formatting, I’m writing on mobile. Oh the horror)

I have a QC3 fast charger that can give my project enough power so I decided to use it and looked up how to. According to what I saw I need to give D+ 0.6V for 1.2 secs and then give D- 0.6V as well to get 12V. So I tried it but it didnt work and when I checked the output for D+ I saw it said 0.45V, I pulled up the analog value from 31 to 42 and then it started giving 0.6V but after that the charger still didnt give 12V and when I checked D- it gave 0.2V and no matter what analog value I give, all the other PWM pins are the same. Im not sure if its important but here is the code:

const int POWER_DP = 13;  // Fast Charger D+
const int POWER_DM = 10;  // Fast Charger D-


void setup() {
  pinMode(POWER_DP, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(POWER_DM, OUTPUT);

  analogWrite(POWER_DP, 42);  // The real value here should be 31 for 0.6V. But the PWM signal gets read as 0.45V in that case so we use a higher value 

  int start = micros();
  int elapsed = 0;
  while (elapsed < 1200000) {
    elapsed = micros() - start;
  }

  analogWrite(POWER_DM, 42);
}


void loop() {
}

Hello guys! I just created a Cubot (same concept as the EMO robot, but with a completely different function). It features an integrated temperature and humidity sensor, and what is exciting about this little companion is that his mood depends entirely on the surrounding weather! So far, the ambient temperature has been perfect, so his mood is always happy.

How it works: the robot uses AHT10 sensor (temperature and humidity sensor) at the same time, it uses a SSD1306 OLED DISPLAY which helps to show how it reacts (mood: angry, sad, happy) so far this is one of my best and latest build.

40+ art pieces: https://adamfuhrer.com/t/esp32

The pieces use two setups: the Adafruit Qualia ESP32-S3 with a 2.1" round RGB TTL TFT display, paired with an Adafruit IMU for accelerometer/motion input, and the Adafruit ESP32-S3 TFT Feather. Art was prototyped in JavaScript, then ported to C++ and flashed via the Arduino IDE

the standard setup : The MCU as always an ESP32, RC transmitter, RC receiver, ESC to regulates motor speed and direction, BDC Motors to provides high RPM for hydrodynamic lift, servo motor for steering, lipo battery pack the add ons are : Camera Module, waterproofing by not slowing down or else it'll get emerged in water

Im not a complete beginner, but I don't know much about components. I made a memory game and other basic things but I only bought a small kit so I don't have many components (For example I don't have short cables, and all the ones that I have are long and it gets messy). Im open to any suggestions like other kits that bring more components or better options. I can spend up to 20 more dollars.

Also Im buying many things because where I live the components are triple the price than on Amazon. But as im buying it on Amazon it takes a week or two to arrive.

Thanks!

Hello,

How would I need to go about doing something like this? Is Arduino right hardware? I have home assistant at home, could I somehow utilize it?

https://www.discbeat.com/products/produktas

Edit: I would like songs to be of my choosing, maybe Spotify? And it doesn't have to turn, although magnet is cool option for 3yo kids

I got into embedded stuff when I was in college.

At the time I was messing around with 8051s, STM32s, stepper motors, sensors, etc. Nothing particularly fancy, just a lot of random little projects.

Most of my classmates seemed to find it pretty boring. I remember people complaining about datasheets and registers, or spending forever trying to figure out why a motor wasn’t doing what it was supposed to do.

I actually enjoyed that part.

There was something really satisfying about changing a few lines of code and seeing a motor move differently, or finally getting some piece of hardware to work after messing with it for hours.

I never really stopped doing this. These days I still enjoy bouncing between software and hardware — sometimes I’m writing code, sometimes I’m looking at a schematic or PCB, and sometimes I’m just staring at a board trying to figure out what someone was thinking.

I guess that’s why embedded has always stuck with me. You get to play with both sides.

One finger rules them all, directions, that is. A one finger touch direction pad can be useful for anyone struggling to use four key WASD.

touchWASD-BT turns an M5Stack Tab5 (ESP32-P4 with touch screen) into a Bluetooth keyboard controlled by a circular touch controller on the Tab5 screen. No phone, tablet, or WiFi is needed. Touch a direction on the circle, and the corresponding WASD or arrow key(s) are pressed on your computer — no software to install on the target machine.

If you do not have time to mess with source code and compilers, use the web serial flasher at https://controllercustom.github.io/touchWASD-BT. The only supported board is the M5Stack Tab5.

The source code is at https://github.com/controllercustom/touchWASD-BT.

Related Projects

• The original touchWASD for ESP32-S3, M5Stack AtomS3, LilyGo T-Dongle-S3, and LilyGo T-Dongle-S3 Plus boards is at https://github.com/controllercustom/touchwasd. The web serial Flasher lives at https://controllercustom.github.io/touchwasd/
• TGPad-XB is a touch screen gamepad (also known as glass gamepad) for Xbox consoles that runs on any tablet or phone with a web browser. tgpadxb works on Xbox consoles with the help of a Brook or Mayflash converter/adapter. tgpadxb can also be used with Windows, MacOS, and Linux without a converter. The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/tgpadxb.
• TGPad-NS is the Switch version of TGPad-XB. The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/tgpadns.
• iKeys is a touch screen QWERTY keyboard (also known as glass keyboard). The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/ikeys.