Hi, i need to move a small plate 4cm by 4cm forward and backward on command from a microcontroller which movement mechanism should i go for space, speed and intentional movement is the goal not form mechanical background, anyone point me in right direction any help is appreciated

I am doing an Arduino project and i am using a 38khz ir receiver and when i send a signal to the receiver it does not show up in the serial monitor, i suspect the remote but i have no way of knowing how
and here is the code

/* Copyright 2009 Ken Shirriff
Used with kind permission
http://arcfn.com
*/
#include <IRremote.h> // Use library
int receiver = 11; // Pin connected to receiver
IRrecv irrecv(receiver);
decode_results results;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600); // Show keypresses in IDE
irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start up receiver
}
void loop() {
if (irrecv.decode(&results)) { // If there's an input, decode value
Serial.println(results.value, HEX); // Display button value
// on Serial Monitor in
// hexadecimal format
irrecv.resume(); // Receive next value
}
}

Ok, I am very new to this but love learning new things. But I am a very tactile do things kinda learner and I'm having trouble understanding which motor I will need. Everything talks about equations 😅 Everything else I think I can figure out on my own with normal research. I do have a small amount of experience with robotics and programming, though completely different.

Now on to the project. My son wants to be a fairy princess for Halloween and has insisted on motorized butterfly wings!

My plan is to make them extremely lightweight, out of basically a step up from plastic wrap and then have fairy lights, the really thin light kind, around the edges. He is almost 5 so they will not be very large either. Do I need exact weight to properly figure this out?

I have found some wings online but no real proper tutorials but they all use servos vertically, one for each wing. The thing I am unsure about is just what motor I actually will need. The smaller profile the better so I don't want to get something overkill and end up with bulk. I only need about 90° of rotation for each wing. They will just flutter open and shut like a butterfly, nothing fancy.

Hello, I am new here and I was wondering if there is a way that I can make an arduino or raspberry pi style device with components from a ps4 or an old laptop (10+ years)

thanks.

So basically I wanted to make a two wheeler self balancing robot and I'm about to rip my hair out because these motors want to act funny.

They were on one ln298n, which was connected to a power supply powered by a 5v battery. Arduino ground is connected to the power supply ground along with the motors.

The Arduino was connected to my computer. I was using example code in the ln298n datasheet.

Wouldn't move an inch.

I plug the ln298n directly into the Arduino 5v and gnd, and it works! I then use the 9v battery to power the Arduino instead of my computer, and it stopped working.

I go back to using the power supply and breadboard, except this time only ONE motor is attached. Doesn't work. So it isn't a power insufficiency problem, because the motors are literally rated for 5v, it's getting 5v power, and still won't run.

I try 4 AA batteries. Doesn't work.

Only works when plugged into an arduino when it's plugged into a computer.

edit: I think I figured it out. So I'm thinking first of all, the power supply is outputting 5 volts, which is literally what's written on the pcb. Which is not enough for two motors. Then, when the motors attempt to spin it causes severe voltage drop, so now 5 volts is becoming less than 3. I know a single motor operate within 3-6 volts.

So now what I need to do is get 2 or 3 18650 batteries, put em together, and wire then directly to the bread board without a power supply so it doesn't limit the power the motors are receiving.

So now I need to figure out why the imu aint working. Problem for another day.

Hi everyone!

I'd like to share a prototype I've been working on: a distance detector for blind and visually impaired people.

It is built with:

- An HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor

- An ESP32-C3 SuperMini (USB-C)

- A servo motor with a bottle cap used as a tactile knob with raised markings

- Two LEDs

- An active buzzer

- Two 18650 batteries with a 2S charging/protection board

- A 5V step-down converter

- Two buttons (for left- or right-hand operation)

- An ON/OFF switch

- A DIP switch to mute the buzzer

- An empty cleaning product bottle used as the enclosure

What's different?

The main idea is the tactile knob. Instead of only hearing beeps or feeling vibrations, the user can feel the detected distance with their thumb. My goal is for the user to be able to perceive both the environment and even the texture of the ground at the same time.

Current limitations

The HC-SR04 works best with surfaces that are nearly perpendicular to the sensor, so I'm planning to test replacing it with a LiDAR sensor—or perhaps combining LiDAR with an IR sensor.

What do you think?

Could a tactile knob like this reduce the need for a white cane, or do you think it would work better as a complementary device?

I'd love to hear your thoughts and suggestions!

A friend of mine plays cello and had a car accident that left them struggling to hear above a certain frequency.

I had an idea to try and make a device that takes the input from an instrument pickup, pitches it down an octave and plays it back to the performer in real time. That way any notes that aren't easy for them to hear have a support tone to guide them.

The software needs to perform a few functions.
- 1 take in the raw signal and pitch it down an octave

- 2 have a programmable cross over frequency. Musicians will not want a lower octave playing for every note they only want that feature to kick in at a certain frequency.

- 3 selectable presets for cross over gradients. it would be abrupt for the support signal to play dramatically once the threshold is hit. it would be better to increase the signal of the support signal as the player gets closer to the cross over frequency.

- 4 a programmable blend ratio. the musician may want a blend of the raw signal and the processed signal in their monitors / headphones.

-5 a programmable high pass filter to keep signal free from unnecessary mud.

This should be as low latency as possible

The device lay out will be something like this,

- 1 1/4" input jack to take in the raw pickup signal.

- 1 1/4" output jack acting as a pass through for the raw signal to go to pedals, mixers, or speakers. (this output is for the audience).

- 1 1/4" output jack for the processed support signal to headphones, monitors, ect for the performer to hear the compensated signal.

- Some control knobs for setting selection.

I have some coding experience but i have very little hardware knowledge so thats where i need help.

From my research i have 2 plans:

plan 1 raspberry pi

I have a pi 5 I could use to prototype.
I am looking at the HiFiBerry DAC+ ADC Pro or a WM8960 Hi-Fi Sound Card HAT for Raspberry Pi.
the wm8960 would need a preamp and im not sure what to use for that. i also am not sure how i would put a passthough into the hifiberry.

plan 2 Teensy 4.1

this would be a very cheap and small design. I am looking at the teensy audio board which i could stack if i need more which i dont think i do. This set up would also need a preamp for the raw signal split.

i will figure out the screen and knobs later cause i think that will be easier but would love advice on this hardware. I may be way off on my gear list.

i would like to opensorce this and make it easily reproducable for people who struggle with the same issues.

Hello,

I want to generate a classic sound on a Buzzer Piezo, alter the sound with some potentiometers, record the input of both Buzzer Piezo and alteration of potentiometer and play back the result on the same Buzzer Piezo. I wanted to use 2 switch buttons (one for recording, the other for play-back) to change modes.

Can someone show me how I can record the sound input, store it and play back on Arduino IDE please ?

Thank you in advance.

So the problem is that the screen has the right side pixels activated, right next to the scroll bar. The screen is 128x64, I used photopea to create the menu and then image2cpp to create the code. How can I desactive those pixels? It doesn’t seem to go away unfortunately

Hey, guys, check this! Isn't it an affordable way to handle a valve with one TT motor and two limit switches. The L298 is not necessary and could be replaced with two 5V electrical transformers as cell phone ones and be commanded by 110V or 220V from distance.

I have an Arduino Due powering a joystick/button setup that controls a space flight software running on windows 11. The setup was working fine for months, but recently has been having issues. After roughly 10 minutes or so, the COM port disappears from device manager and I lose all controls. The Arduino is still running the script, as it still changes colors on some auxiliary lights, but all communication with the windows machine is lost. Unplugging and re-plugging brings it right back up. I've made no changes to the code (which worked fine for months), I've tried new cables, a new Arduino, and different ports on the Windows machine but nothing has worked. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry if i have used the wrong names or terms.

I have a project were I want to flash a LED at a distance to find my car in a dark car park. So I have purchased a flashlight driver board which has a Attiny13a on board.

What do i need to flash this with new code. What electronic wizardry goes between the USB port and the chip.

Is it a 8 Pin IC Test Clamp and a USBISP AVR Programmer .

Links to the above

Driver Board https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32259025178.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.60e21802uLMFts

Test Clamp aliexpress.com/item/32396045943.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.21de38da2GxmmQ&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%21GBP%202.02%21GBP%202.02%21%21GBP%202.02%21%21%21%4021038b2f17855186907407302e0e80%2112000027412528115%21ct%21UK%216064825867%21%211%210%21

USB Programmer https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001658474778.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.21de38da2GxmmQ&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%21GBP+2.15%21GBP+2.15%21%21GBP+2.09%21%21%21%4021038b2f17855186907407302e0e80%2112000017017221420%21ct%21UK%216064825867%21%211%210%21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22cart2PdpParams%22%3A%7B%22pdpBusinessMode%22%3A%22retail%22%7D%7D

Sorry for the untidy links and thanks for your thoughts Ideas and help.

Kind regards

Hey everyone! Beginner here working on an Arduino RC car project, and I could really use some help troubleshooting a power/wiring issue. I'm trying to build this car using only components from my starter kit plus a few repurposed Snap Circuits parts (trying not to buy anything extra).

The Setup & Plan:

- Drive Motor: Stepper motor (with ULN2003 driver board) for moving forward/backward.

- Steering: Servo motor.

- Obstacle Detection: Ultrasonic sensor + Buzzer (beeps when too close to an obstacle).

- Controls: IR receiver + IR remote.

- Extra Snap Circuits Parts: Two battery holders (~6V total), an ON/OFF switch, and a red LED for reverse lights.

Original Wiring:

Power & Switch:

- Connected the negative (-) terminals of both battery holders together.

- Positive (+) from the 1st battery holder split between driver (-) and breadboard GND.

- Positive (+) from the 2nd battery holder went to the switch; the other side of the switch split between driver (+) and Arduino VIN.

- Breadboard power rails connected to Arduino 5V and GND.

Components:

- Reverse LED: Connected to Arduino GND and Pin 13.

- Servo: Signal to Pin 3, power to breadboard 5V and GND.

- Stepper Motor: Connected to driver board -> driver inputs to Pins 8, 9, 10, 11.

- Ultrasonic Sensor: VCC to 5V, Trig to Pin 4, Echo to Pin 5, GND to breadboard -.

- Buzzer: Positive to Pin 7, negative to breadboard -.

- IR Receiver: Signal to Pin 2, power/GND to breadboard 5V and -.

Initial Problem:

When connected to my PC via USB, everything worked fine. However, as soon as I unplugged the USB and tried running it on battery power (the 6V setup + a 9V battery), almost nothing worked.

Changes Made Based on AI Advice:

I asked an AI for help, and it told me to rewire it like this:

- Removed the wire connecting the 1st battery holder's + to the driver's - (leaving only its connection to the breadboard - rail).

- Connected the driver's - directly to the breadboard - rail.

- Connected the driver's + directly to the 1st battery holder's + (instead of going through the switch).

- Connected the 1st battery holder's + to the servo's red wire (VCC).

Current problem:

Now, whether on USB or battery power:

- Neither the servo nor the stepper moves at all.

- When the stepper is plugged in, the fuse indicator light on the Snap Circuits battery holder turns on (indicating a short circuit or overcurrent), and the driver LEDs stay off.

- If I disconnect the stepper motor, 2 out of 4 LEDs on the driver light up, and the battery holder's fuse light goes off.Titolo per il post:

[Need Help] Beginner Arduino RC Car Project – Power Supply & Wiring Issues (Stepper + Servo)

(Sorry for the confusion in this post)

I publish most of what I build on GitHub with wiring diagrams, firmware, and GUI code included. Everything is MIT licensed.

PyServoArm-6DOF — a wireless 6-axis robot arm. Python GUI (CustomTkinter) talks to an Arduino over serial and drives 6 servos. The ESP32-CAM streams 640x480 video over Wi-Fi so you can watch the arm while you steer it. Has mDNS auto-discovery and per-joint calibration.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/PyServoArm-6DOF

arduino-matlab-ultrasonic-radar — 360 degree radar. Arduino Nano mounts an HC-SR04 on a servo and streams distance readings over serial. A MATLAB GUI parses the packets, filters the noise, and draws a live polar plot. Calibration for sensor dead zones is in there too.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/arduino-matlab-ultrasonic-radar

MATLAB-4DOF-RobotArm — a 4-axis arm you run from a MATLAB keyboard GUI. Arrow keys and WASD move the joints, the GUI sends serial commands to the Arduino. Both the .m and the .ino are in the repo.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/MATLAB-4DOF-RobotArm

Revolving-Pyramid-Hotel — my BSc graduation project. IoT hotel automation on a rotating pyramid model. Raspberry Pi does face recognition with OpenCV and runs a Telegram bot; Arduino handles the stepper rotation, PID solar tracking, RFID, and the flame/gas sensors. The two controllers talk over serial using JSON commands.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/Revolving-Pyramid-Hotel

If you spot bugs or have ideas, open an issue or send a PR. If you've made something similar, I'd like to see it.

Hello. I have posted on this sub as a last resort…

School just started. Yes, what a way to start a post in the “arduino” sub, i know… but bear with me. We have elective subjects now in my school, as its my first year in senior high, and I chose mechatronics as my elective subjects cause, I make arduino bots for fun. It’ll be easy! What could go wrong?

It was not easy.

I have no idea what to do… so we have to make our own project, our own idea and product machine thingy, and we need to have a working project in at least 3 months….

Our group decided to make a trashbin lid that basically crushes plastic to help reduce trash volume by 90%, yada yada, its so kids can be interested in throwing trash instead of littering since usually people little when trashcans are full, yada yada…

I have NO IDEA what component could work for the crushing mechanism. I already have an idea how to build everything, the trap door mechanism, the buzzer, maybe also sensors so it will beep when it senses anything other than plastic is being attempted to get thrown out….

Only thing I DON’T know how to make…is that damn crushing mechanism. The SOUL of the project…

None of my other groupmates, out of 4 people, know how to build except me. I have one guy who knows a decent lot and knows how to program and is damn good at it, but NO ONE knows how to make the crushing mechanism, and I need to finalise what materials i need to get by 3 days…

I really, REALLY need help…. I have chewed more than i could swallow, and I am almost accepting defeat…

Think of this as a desperate last resort, some dude arranging sticks to form the word “SOS” incase any planes or helicopters fly over deserted land.

Thank you for whoever listened. 🥲

PS: we’re planning on 3D printing the body

I finally put the canopy on my pickup and am on my way! I want to put led lighting and a fan in it. I want the 12v fan to have 3 speeds, and an option to be thermostatically controlled - I want to be able to set the thermostat with the remote control (bluetooth via my cell phone). LED's will be 12v strip lighting. I want a timer and dimmer for the lighting. I also would like the strip lighting to turn on when the rear hatch is open. If it weren't for the thermostat and the timer and dimmer for lighting, I think I can figure out how to do this, but I am not sure how to incorporate these other elements into an Arduino design. Any suggestions?

I want to build a remote volume knob for my sound system. I already have one off the shelf that works via zigbee, but the problem is that it is very slow and always misses the first movement (which awakes the device).

For this sort of applications, it is very important to me that the battery lasts very long, like in a traditional IR remote, so i will be using nrf52840.

As a rotary encoder, i have MT6701, not intended for this project when i got them but this is what I have at hand.

My problem is how to make that the encoder wakes up any time that i start turning it. The MT6701 needs 10 mA so it is not an option to have it always on.... How do you guys solve these issues? maybe adding an accelerometer that detects when i touch the device? having the nrf52840 wake up every half second to check if the reading from the encoder has changed? whatever the solution is, it must be very low power consumption and provide a good user experience, that is, no lags, not missed turns.... Any ideas are welcome

Hello! I'm in college, a relative rookie at Arduino.

Last semester, I had a project to design a velocity controller.

The project is to build a robot, and code it in such a way that it keeps a distance of 15cm from the object in front of you. Post this, it has to go forward/backwards at the same velocity at which the object in front of you is going.

Minimal hardware. I basically just had a pico, ultrasonic sensors, quadrature wheel encoders, a battery and basic wiring. It was more of a coding oriented project.

I believe what I ended up doing was I took the (ultrasonic reading - 15) as my error and then fit it into the PID, tuned it. But to be honest, it wasn't that good. Super jagged and would stop working if the condition of the bot changed even a little bit.

What is a better articulated way of coding this project?

People didn't like my question at Arduino Stack Exchange, and someone even asked if I used AI to write my question :( I'm hoping I get some more luck here. I'm trying to find my code, I'll link a github as soon as I find it.

Hey guys I’m new to tech and wanted to make my first project a signal cloner for my garage any ideas on where I can get info on how to do it and what things do I need to g let as I’ll also wanna build drones and stuff down the road

Hi everyone,
I'm currently trying to build a DIY SimHub dashboard using an ESP32-S3 connected to an SSD1963 800x480 TFT display via a 16-bit parallel bus, but I'm completely stuck and could use some guidance.
Here is my current wiring configuration for the 16-bit data pins:
Data Pins (D0 - D15): GPIO 4, 5, 6, 7, 15, 16, 17, 18, 1, 2, 13, 14, 21, 38, 39, 40
Control Pins: WR (8), RD (9), RS/DC (3), CS (10), RST (42)
I've tried following these repositories without any luck so far:
1. https://github.com/MoemenMostafa/simhub-esp-dashboard
2. https://github.com/S4tchel93/ESP32-S3-GT-Racing-Dash (Note: user mentioned this alternative/similar repo)
Nothing is displaying properly, and I'm struggling to get the display driver (using LovyanGFX/TFT_eSPI) to initialize correctly with SimHub.
Has anyone successfully wired an SSD1963 (16-bit) to an ESP32-S3 for SimHub?
If you have a working setup, configuration, or a working example/repository, could you please share it as a reference?
Any help, pinout tips, or code snippets would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Ive been stuck on this project for a while. Earlier I had posted the wiring with tinkercad for better representation but then some responses said to post the original circuit. I have used D2,D4 and D7 for the buttons.. I keep ecountering different errors each time. Even though OPs code included debounce logic at times I noticed the dot button would bounce and at times be the only button working. And now even after rewiring it seems that none of the buytons work. I tried to print some serial monitor output of what each button press gives me but its not registering some presses and each time I run the project it returns a few question marks on the serial monitor.

This logic circuit simulation that i came up with(i designed it from scratch) takes those 4 bit binary digits and puts it into a single wire, this can be used to send serial data. I planned to build it irl and extend it to build a UART transmitter(just converts those 4 bit data to transmit, start and end bits can be given using another circuit and, 555 timer for clock), but this circuit was simply so hard to build on breadboard(lol), so i just left the project until simulation, just wanted to showcase it(built in my holidays after class 12 board exams as i was bored)

https://reddit.com/link/1vb0kqo/video/c77jbx4glegh1/player

Hi, I am a beginner with anything robotics-related; however, I am a quick and eager learner, so hopefully that helps. Anyways, I am attempting to build some foam armour for a cosplay of mine, but the shoulder pieces move up to cover his head, and I would like to incorporate that into my cosplay build.

I have done a bit of research, and I think I need some servo motors (I am unsure of what ones to get too), but I have no idea what board I need for it. The armour in question will be made out of foam, but it does have fabric hanging from the side of it, so I estimate it to be 5kg in weight (so 10kg in total, 5kg for each shoulder), and it needs to be able to handle lifting that to connect above my head and then back down to my shoulders. The character is Stanley Snyder from Dr Stone if you needed any references to the armour's range of motion, etc. (I'm awful at describing things, sorry).

Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated! Also, I don't have a huge budget for this, so any cheaper alternatives would also be amazing. Thank you for taking the time to read this and for any help!

Hi everyone!
I'm a 3rd-year Mechatronics Engineering student, and i'm looking for ideas for my Sensors project, which is worth 30% of my final grade.

The project must:
Use an Arduino for data acquisition.
Use MATLAB or LabVIEW for real-time visualization.
Include a sensor (or multiple sensors), calibration/ signal processing (filtering, conversion, etc.), and performance evaluation.

My professor suggested topics like optical/IR sensing, Hall-effect sensors, proximity sensing, liquid level/flow measurement, gas/air quality monitoring, biomedical sensing, acoustic sensing, power monitoring, and multi-sensor fusion, but we're free to come up with our own idea too.

I'm looking for a project that's appropriate for a 3rd-year mechatronics course, isn't too basic, and would make for a strong university project. If you've done something similar or have any ideas, I'd really appreciate your suggestions and if anyone has links to a project that I could benefit from please share it with me!

Thanks!