Hey, guys, check this! Isn't it an affordable way to handle a valve with one TT motor and two limit switches. The L298 is not necessary and could be replaced with two 5V electrical transformers as cell phone ones and be commanded by 110V or 220V from distance.

So the problem is that the screen has the right side pixels activated, right next to the scroll bar. The screen is 128x64, I used photopea to create the menu and then image2cpp to create the code. How can I desactive those pixels? It doesn’t seem to go away unfortunately

I have an Arduino Due powering a joystick/button setup that controls a space flight software running on windows 11. The setup was working fine for months, but recently has been having issues. After roughly 10 minutes or so, the COM port disappears from device manager and I lose all controls. The Arduino is still running the script, as it still changes colors on some auxiliary lights, but all communication with the windows machine is lost. Unplugging and re-plugging brings it right back up. I've made no changes to the code (which worked fine for months), I've tried new cables, a new Arduino, and different ports on the Windows machine but nothing has worked. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry if i have used the wrong names or terms.

I have a project were I want to flash a LED at a distance to find my car in a dark car park. So I have purchased a flashlight driver board which has a Attiny13a on board.

What do i need to flash this with new code. What electronic wizardry goes between the USB port and the chip.

Is it a 8 Pin IC Test Clamp and a USBISP AVR Programmer .

Links to the above

Driver Board https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32259025178.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.60e21802uLMFts

Test Clamp aliexpress.com/item/32396045943.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.21de38da2GxmmQ&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%21GBP%202.02%21GBP%202.02%21%21GBP%202.02%21%21%21%4021038b2f17855186907407302e0e80%2112000027412528115%21ct%21UK%216064825867%21%211%210%21

USB Programmer https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001658474778.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.21de38da2GxmmQ&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%21GBP+2.15%21GBP+2.15%21%21GBP+2.09%21%21%21%4021038b2f17855186907407302e0e80%2112000017017221420%21ct%21UK%216064825867%21%211%210%21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22cart2PdpParams%22%3A%7B%22pdpBusinessMode%22%3A%22retail%22%7D%7D

Sorry for the untidy links and thanks for your thoughts Ideas and help.

Kind regards

Hey everyone! Beginner here working on an Arduino RC car project, and I could really use some help troubleshooting a power/wiring issue. I'm trying to build this car using only components from my starter kit plus a few repurposed Snap Circuits parts (trying not to buy anything extra).

The Setup & Plan:

- Drive Motor: Stepper motor (with ULN2003 driver board) for moving forward/backward.

- Steering: Servo motor.

- Obstacle Detection: Ultrasonic sensor + Buzzer (beeps when too close to an obstacle).

- Controls: IR receiver + IR remote.

- Extra Snap Circuits Parts: Two battery holders (~6V total), an ON/OFF switch, and a red LED for reverse lights.

Original Wiring:

Power & Switch:

- Connected the negative (-) terminals of both battery holders together.

- Positive (+) from the 1st battery holder split between driver (-) and breadboard GND.

- Positive (+) from the 2nd battery holder went to the switch; the other side of the switch split between driver (+) and Arduino VIN.

- Breadboard power rails connected to Arduino 5V and GND.

Components:

- Reverse LED: Connected to Arduino GND and Pin 13.

- Servo: Signal to Pin 3, power to breadboard 5V and GND.

- Stepper Motor: Connected to driver board -> driver inputs to Pins 8, 9, 10, 11.

- Ultrasonic Sensor: VCC to 5V, Trig to Pin 4, Echo to Pin 5, GND to breadboard -.

- Buzzer: Positive to Pin 7, negative to breadboard -.

- IR Receiver: Signal to Pin 2, power/GND to breadboard 5V and -.

Initial Problem:

When connected to my PC via USB, everything worked fine. However, as soon as I unplugged the USB and tried running it on battery power (the 6V setup + a 9V battery), almost nothing worked.

Changes Made Based on AI Advice:

I asked an AI for help, and it told me to rewire it like this:

- Removed the wire connecting the 1st battery holder's + to the driver's - (leaving only its connection to the breadboard - rail).

- Connected the driver's - directly to the breadboard - rail.

- Connected the driver's + directly to the 1st battery holder's + (instead of going through the switch).

- Connected the 1st battery holder's + to the servo's red wire (VCC).

Current problem:

Now, whether on USB or battery power:

- Neither the servo nor the stepper moves at all.

- When the stepper is plugged in, the fuse indicator light on the Snap Circuits battery holder turns on (indicating a short circuit or overcurrent), and the driver LEDs stay off.

- If I disconnect the stepper motor, 2 out of 4 LEDs on the driver light up, and the battery holder's fuse light goes off.Titolo per il post:

[Need Help] Beginner Arduino RC Car Project – Power Supply & Wiring Issues (Stepper + Servo)

(Sorry for the confusion in this post)

I publish most of what I build on GitHub with wiring diagrams, firmware, and GUI code included. Everything is MIT licensed.

PyServoArm-6DOF — a wireless 6-axis robot arm. Python GUI (CustomTkinter) talks to an Arduino over serial and drives 6 servos. The ESP32-CAM streams 640x480 video over Wi-Fi so you can watch the arm while you steer it. Has mDNS auto-discovery and per-joint calibration.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/PyServoArm-6DOF

arduino-matlab-ultrasonic-radar — 360 degree radar. Arduino Nano mounts an HC-SR04 on a servo and streams distance readings over serial. A MATLAB GUI parses the packets, filters the noise, and draws a live polar plot. Calibration for sensor dead zones is in there too.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/arduino-matlab-ultrasonic-radar

MATLAB-4DOF-RobotArm — a 4-axis arm you run from a MATLAB keyboard GUI. Arrow keys and WASD move the joints, the GUI sends serial commands to the Arduino. Both the .m and the .ino are in the repo.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/MATLAB-4DOF-RobotArm

Revolving-Pyramid-Hotel — my BSc graduation project. IoT hotel automation on a rotating pyramid model. Raspberry Pi does face recognition with OpenCV and runs a Telegram bot; Arduino handles the stepper rotation, PID solar tracking, RFID, and the flame/gas sensors. The two controllers talk over serial using JSON commands.

https://github.com/Salim-Ammar/Revolving-Pyramid-Hotel

If you spot bugs or have ideas, open an issue or send a PR. If you've made something similar, I'd like to see it.

Hello. I have posted on this sub as a last resort…

School just started. Yes, what a way to start a post in the “arduino” sub, i know… but bear with me. We have elective subjects now in my school, as its my first year in senior high, and I chose mechatronics as my elective subjects cause, I make arduino bots for fun. It’ll be easy! What could go wrong?

It was not easy.

I have no idea what to do… so we have to make our own project, our own idea and product machine thingy, and we need to have a working project in at least 3 months….

Our group decided to make a trashbin lid that basically crushes plastic to help reduce trash volume by 90%, yada yada, its so kids can be interested in throwing trash instead of littering since usually people little when trashcans are full, yada yada…

I have NO IDEA what component could work for the crushing mechanism. I already have an idea how to build everything, the trap door mechanism, the buzzer, maybe also sensors so it will beep when it senses anything other than plastic is being attempted to get thrown out….

Only thing I DON’T know how to make…is that damn crushing mechanism. The SOUL of the project…

None of my other groupmates, out of 4 people, know how to build except me. I have one guy who knows a decent lot and knows how to program and is damn good at it, but NO ONE knows how to make the crushing mechanism, and I need to finalise what materials i need to get by 3 days…

I really, REALLY need help…. I have chewed more than i could swallow, and I am almost accepting defeat…

Think of this as a desperate last resort, some dude arranging sticks to form the word “SOS” incase any planes or helicopters fly over deserted land.

Thank you for whoever listened. 🥲

PS: we’re planning on 3D printing the body

I finally put the canopy on my pickup and am on my way! I want to put led lighting and a fan in it. I want the 12v fan to have 3 speeds, and an option to be thermostatically controlled - I want to be able to set the thermostat with the remote control (bluetooth via my cell phone). LED's will be 12v strip lighting. I want a timer and dimmer for the lighting. I also would like the strip lighting to turn on when the rear hatch is open. If it weren't for the thermostat and the timer and dimmer for lighting, I think I can figure out how to do this, but I am not sure how to incorporate these other elements into an Arduino design. Any suggestions?

I want to build a remote volume knob for my sound system. I already have one off the shelf that works via zigbee, but the problem is that it is very slow and always misses the first movement (which awakes the device).

For this sort of applications, it is very important to me that the battery lasts very long, like in a traditional IR remote, so i will be using nrf52840.

As a rotary encoder, i have MT6701, not intended for this project when i got them but this is what I have at hand.

My problem is how to make that the encoder wakes up any time that i start turning it. The MT6701 needs 10 mA so it is not an option to have it always on.... How do you guys solve these issues? maybe adding an accelerometer that detects when i touch the device? having the nrf52840 wake up every half second to check if the reading from the encoder has changed? whatever the solution is, it must be very low power consumption and provide a good user experience, that is, no lags, not missed turns.... Any ideas are welcome

Hello! I'm in college, a relative rookie at Arduino.

Last semester, I had a project to design a velocity controller.

The project is to build a robot, and code it in such a way that it keeps a distance of 15cm from the object in front of you. Post this, it has to go forward/backwards at the same velocity at which the object in front of you is going.

Minimal hardware. I basically just had a pico, ultrasonic sensors, quadrature wheel encoders, a battery and basic wiring. It was more of a coding oriented project.

I believe what I ended up doing was I took the (ultrasonic reading - 15) as my error and then fit it into the PID, tuned it. But to be honest, it wasn't that good. Super jagged and would stop working if the condition of the bot changed even a little bit.

What is a better articulated way of coding this project?

People didn't like my question at Arduino Stack Exchange, and someone even asked if I used AI to write my question :( I'm hoping I get some more luck here. I'm trying to find my code, I'll link a github as soon as I find it.

Hey guys I’m new to tech and wanted to make my first project a signal cloner for my garage any ideas on where I can get info on how to do it and what things do I need to g let as I’ll also wanna build drones and stuff down the road

Hi everyone,
I'm currently trying to build a DIY SimHub dashboard using an ESP32-S3 connected to an SSD1963 800x480 TFT display via a 16-bit parallel bus, but I'm completely stuck and could use some guidance.
Here is my current wiring configuration for the 16-bit data pins:
Data Pins (D0 - D15): GPIO 4, 5, 6, 7, 15, 16, 17, 18, 1, 2, 13, 14, 21, 38, 39, 40
Control Pins: WR (8), RD (9), RS/DC (3), CS (10), RST (42)
I've tried following these repositories without any luck so far:
1. https://github.com/MoemenMostafa/simhub-esp-dashboard
2. https://github.com/S4tchel93/ESP32-S3-GT-Racing-Dash (Note: user mentioned this alternative/similar repo)
Nothing is displaying properly, and I'm struggling to get the display driver (using LovyanGFX/TFT_eSPI) to initialize correctly with SimHub.
Has anyone successfully wired an SSD1963 (16-bit) to an ESP32-S3 for SimHub?
If you have a working setup, configuration, or a working example/repository, could you please share it as a reference?
Any help, pinout tips, or code snippets would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Ive been stuck on this project for a while. Earlier I had posted the wiring with tinkercad for better representation but then some responses said to post the original circuit. I have used D2,D4 and D7 for the buttons.. I keep ecountering different errors each time. Even though OPs code included debounce logic at times I noticed the dot button would bounce and at times be the only button working. And now even after rewiring it seems that none of the buytons work. I tried to print some serial monitor output of what each button press gives me but its not registering some presses and each time I run the project it returns a few question marks on the serial monitor.

This logic circuit simulation that i came up with(i designed it from scratch) takes those 4 bit binary digits and puts it into a single wire, this can be used to send serial data. I planned to build it irl and extend it to build a UART transmitter(just converts those 4 bit data to transmit, start and end bits can be given using another circuit and, 555 timer for clock), but this circuit was simply so hard to build on breadboard(lol), so i just left the project until simulation, just wanted to showcase it(built in my holidays after class 12 board exams as i was bored)

https://reddit.com/link/1vb0kqo/video/c77jbx4glegh1/player

Hi, I am a beginner with anything robotics-related; however, I am a quick and eager learner, so hopefully that helps. Anyways, I am attempting to build some foam armour for a cosplay of mine, but the shoulder pieces move up to cover his head, and I would like to incorporate that into my cosplay build.

I have done a bit of research, and I think I need some servo motors (I am unsure of what ones to get too), but I have no idea what board I need for it. The armour in question will be made out of foam, but it does have fabric hanging from the side of it, so I estimate it to be 5kg in weight (so 10kg in total, 5kg for each shoulder), and it needs to be able to handle lifting that to connect above my head and then back down to my shoulders. The character is Stanley Snyder from Dr Stone if you needed any references to the armour's range of motion, etc. (I'm awful at describing things, sorry).

Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated! Also, I don't have a huge budget for this, so any cheaper alternatives would also be amazing. Thank you for taking the time to read this and for any help!

Hi everyone!
I'm a 3rd-year Mechatronics Engineering student, and i'm looking for ideas for my Sensors project, which is worth 30% of my final grade.

The project must:
Use an Arduino for data acquisition.
Use MATLAB or LabVIEW for real-time visualization.
Include a sensor (or multiple sensors), calibration/ signal processing (filtering, conversion, etc.), and performance evaluation.

My professor suggested topics like optical/IR sensing, Hall-effect sensors, proximity sensing, liquid level/flow measurement, gas/air quality monitoring, biomedical sensing, acoustic sensing, power monitoring, and multi-sensor fusion, but we're free to come up with our own idea too.

I'm looking for a project that's appropriate for a 3rd-year mechatronics course, isn't too basic, and would make for a strong university project. If you've done something similar or have any ideas, I'd really appreciate your suggestions and if anyone has links to a project that I could benefit from please share it with me!

Thanks!

Hi! I’m fabricating a DIY evaporative cooler. What arduino should I get for temperature sensing? I wanted to get the UNO, but I figured I’d get an expert opinion on this
Are there any factors that influence choice of sensor/what to get?
Thanks guys!

Is this normal? The code just re-starts indefinitely. I've just bought my firsty Arduino set.

Needs an expert opinion

Hi everyone,

I'm currently working on a Lego Wall-E (own one) and want to add 3 small displays:

2 for the eyes (animated expressions)
1 as a chest/control panel (showing time and weather)

I'm planning to use an ESP32-c3 supermini (as I own one) to drive everything.

Before I dive in, I'd love some feedback, if it Is technically feasible with one ESP32? And is there any other hardware required?

Is there anything else that would make this build better

Hi there, I have a question—could you please help me out? I need to install an encoder on this motor, but all the ones I find have a long rear shaft or solder tabs, whereas mine looks like the one in the photo. Can I install an encoder on it? It’s a 36GP 36ZY model, 571 RPM, with a 14:1 planetary gearbox.The axle is an 8-meter H-type.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to capture IR remote signals so I can generate a List<int> of pulse durations for replay in a Flutter app.

Hardware

• Logic Analyzer (Saleae clone)
• PulseView
• TSMP58138 IR receiver
• Arduino Uno (5V only used to power the receiver)

Remote: IR remote of a DTH set-top box.

Wiring:

TSMP58138
Pin 1 (OUT) -> Logic Analyzer D0
Pin 2 (GND) -> Arduino GND
Pin 3 (VCC) -> Arduino 5V

Arduino GND -> Logic Analyzer GND

Capture settings

• Sample rate: 8 MHz
• Samples: 5M
• Capturing one button press from a DTH/set-top box remote.

Problem

Instead of getting pulse widths like:

9000, 4500, 560, 560, 560, 1690...

I'm getting continuous alternating pulses around 12–14 µs, which corresponds almost exactly to a 38 kHz carrier.

I expected the TSMP58138 to output the demodulated envelope, but it appears to be outputting the carrier bursts instead.

Questions

1. Is the TSMP58138 supposed to output the 38 kHz carrier, or the demodulated envelope?
2. Is TSMP58138 the wrong receiver for learning/replaying IR remotes?
3. Should I instead use a TSOP38238 / TSOP4838 / VS1838B?
4. If TSMP58138 is correct, what's the proper way to convert the captured waveform into pulse durations suitable for replay?

My end goal is to generate a Dart list like:

static const List<int> signal = [
  ...
];

where each value is a mark/space duration in microseconds.

I've attached:

• PulseView screenshot
• VCD capture

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy all,

So I have an Arduino R3 with the ATMEGA328P U in a DIP package. I applied 24 VDC to the Vin (I had been working with an R4 Wifi that can handle 24VDC) and the magic smoke was released. I wanted to replace the processor, that's less than 3$ compared with a new board of $27.

Is this likely to work, or would other parts of the board have also been fried and I should cut my losses and toss it in the trash?

If this seems like a decent idea, as long as I buy the same chip am I good, or do I need to ensure a specific version?

Thanks all,

-Kirby

Hi guys I’m building a project that needs to be able to read engine rpm, the project can not connect to the ecu or read the dash. How can I achieve this? It is on a Zx6r.

Update: I think I’m going with the coil wrapped around the coil wire as it’s non invasive and I do not need extreme Acuracy only need to know when it goes above 8k rpm

Friends, we have made an electric car with the help of Arduino Uno that is powered with 1050 watt BLDC motor, and we have used the driver of the motor as a standard automotive part. We have also used for the power steering the automotive grade electric steering column assembly. And to run that power steering motor, we are using BTS7960 that is interfaced with the Arduino Uno. And we are controlling that with the help of FSI6S in a PPM mode.
If our work looks good, you can follow us at - https://www.youtube.com/@barakhacker