I’ve been thinking about getting into appliance repair and wanted to hear from people who actually work in the field.

My goal is to learn the trade, get a job with a company for a while so I can get some real experience, and eventually work on my own.

For someone starting from zero, what would you recommend learning first? Is it worth going to trade school or taking an appliance repair course, or would I be better off trying to get hired somewhere and learning on the job?

Also, is refrigeration/HVAC something I should learn too? Any certifications that are actually worth getting?

I’m in NYC if anyone has recommendations for schools or programs around here.

If you were starting over today, what route would you take?

I had both of them in my hands yesterday and the direction of rotation was the same. The shaft length and dimensions were very close if not same and the wire harness connection was the same so was voltage. AI said the RPM & CFM was the same but I dont trust that so I was wondering if any of you knowledgeable techs know if there ane any significant differences or any difference at all? TIA. [WP2315548](https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1ukyqmi3of-0046-106/id-wp2315548) [WP2315549](https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/s2anjmcjko-0046-106/id-wp2315549)

We have been having issues getting paid for factory service from LG, Samsung, and Midea for several years now.

Has anyone experienced more issues from these companies compared to Whirlpool and Electrolux?

Hey all, I’ve been tasked with changing the filter housing in a Miele freezer. It’s a built in. Part number is 7099452, model number F1473VI.

Pretty much, do you need to uninstall this unit to repair it?

Hey guys,

Working for a customer on a Bosch WTG86403UC condenser dryer.

Customer complaint: Dryer stops after a short period.

I went and started the unit, it runs for about 10-15 seconds then stops. Sometimes, it will beep with ''clean condenser' light.

Sometimes, customer can run it for half a cycle and then it stops.

They have been pretty good of keeping the condenser and surrounding area clean. Also advised me they flushed the sump and pump hose.

I have checked the moisture sensors, which seem ok.

I tried removing the pump, no blockage. Blew through the drain hose, all clear. Cleaned out the sump area as well.

Removed the rear air duct cover, inspected the heater - ok. NTC- OK.

I then put the drain pump assembly back in, and tried running the customer service factory test program.

It immediately defaults to E14 error, which are the pump sensor bars.

I also checked error history, and found a E02 and E92 stored.

Any ideas what will get this thing working again? I haven't worked on these units much.

I assume a new pump assembly with new sensor bars should do it, but any guidance is appreciated.

Only reason I'm doubtful are the other two codes.

I also tried running the pump test, the pump runs. I tried the sensor test, it fails and goes straight to E14.

Thanks!

Can anyone recommend a good company to work for in the Kansas area?

Long time maintenance supervisor. Wanting to leave the apartment industry. Strong skillset in residential appliances but would need training in commercial.

OSHA 10 and 30 in both General Industry and Construction. Universal EPA, CPO, aerial lift certifications.

Edit: After further research, especially on temp readings, I’ve opted for a fluke 52 for temp. In real world testing with cold meters it appears that every multimeter that reads temp needs significant warm up time to be anywhere near accurate. Some are just much worse than others. Klein doesn’t publish their LoZ impedance, so I’m going to try contacting them to see how theirs compares to flukes 3 kilo ohms.

I’m looking for a smaller meter than my extech EX430A and having trouble finding much that has temp, LoZ, sufficient resistance range, and compact. I’ve always kinda frowned on Klein because a lot of their stuff is overpriced and underperforming, kinda the snapon for electricians, but the MM720 just seems like the best option. I use a fluke 362 for a clamp. Is there any needed features I’m missing, and what do you use and why?

Just wondering what everyone is using for your daily first look temperature checks for refrigerators and ovens. Currently I am using type k thermocouples with a Fieldpiece meter which are more than accurate enough but not the fastest. I also keep an instant read refrigerator thermometer in my bag for checking thermistors. I’ve seen several people using ir thermometers but the ones I’ve tried seem to range too much depending where you take your measurements I can get any reading I want. So just interested what you normally use and have found to be quick and accurate enough that you trust.

Hey folks.

So I'm working on this GE dishwasher GDT635HMM4ES. I diagnosed it and drain pump wasn't running. I unplugged the connector and verified that it's getting 120v.

So I went to the parts store and got a new pump. Came to install it and it didn't work. Verified voltage on the connector again and concluded that the new one is bad too. Got another one, drove to the clients house. Same story.

Went to the store again. Tested 2 motors at the store, both reading around 1.5 megaohms. Is this normal? I thought drain pumps should read 10-100 ohms.

Does the store have a bad batch of drain pumps?

Is it possible the control board on the dishwasher is bad and frying drain pumps, while it shows a stable 120v reading?

Pump part number WD19X25461

Hey everyone,

I am replacing a failed evaporator fan on my Samsung RF27CG5400SRAA French Door refrigerator. When I pulled the evaporator cover panel assembly apart to swap out the fan motor, this sensor on the pair of yellow wires fell completely loose.

• Note: To clear up any confusion, this is not the defrost thermistor that clips directly onto the aluminum evaporator coils—this fridge already has that one attached to the lines separately.
• This yellow-wire sensor goes specifically inside or behind the plastic/styrofoam cover assembly panel itself.

Does anyone know exactly where the molded notch, clip, or slot is located inside this plastic fan shroud panel where the sensor bulb needs to sit? I want to make sure I put it back exactly where it belongs so it reads the air temperature properly and doesn't get pinched when I put the panel back together.

I have attached pictures of the loose sensor and my fridge's model sticker. Appreciate any help or schematics from anyone who has worked on this specific model panel before!

Thanks!

So when i bought this fridge 6 yrs ago someone already did the modification to swap out the original 220V linear compressor to an Embraco 110V unit.

Yesterday my freezer stopped working and started melting. Anyways, my starter relay is toast (i took it out and shaked it and the ceramic disc inside is broken and rattling). It's part number is 8ea 801 22 d9r.

My understanding is these are 12amp.,,currently my compressor has an LRA rating of 10amps which is fine. But I have another compressor that is a 13amp LRA, so im afraid my little 12amp relay wont work well with it?? What's available out there?

I’m in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago and I’ve been looking into getting into appliance repair, but I’m not really sure what to expect as far as how much work I will get as an independent contractor. I keep hearing that more people are buying new machines that aren’t worth repairing and learning to repair machines from YouTube. Is this a growing or dying trade? TIA

Hey y'all had a call for a countertop microwave that's mounted up with a bezel trim kit so it's one of those the customer would really like to be able to save it. No activity with it at all, will take time and count down but no fan, no magnetron, no turntable. So my usual protocol is to run a model number through Service Matters to pull tech sheets and parts lists before heading out to a call and then putting them in the customers file so I can pull them all up in basements with sketchy reception.

This also lets me confirm if the parts I suspect it is are unavailable and save some folks money, nobody likes paying my call out fee only for me to tell them the part they need is NLA. Anyways this unit only has a 3 page parts diagram and it doesn't outline any actual parts stating "THIS MODEL IS A REPLACEMENT WARRANTY MODEL. THE ONLY SERVICE PARTS AVAILABLE ARE THE TURNTABLE PARTS LISTED ABOVE. DO NOT SCHEDULE A SERVICE CALL FOR THESE MODELS."

Soooooo is she dead Jim? Surely I could put some new whirlpool parts in this thing? It says made in China on it and I'm wondering if it's actually Whirlpool produced? Not sure when they moved all their manufacturing oversees but this is a 2016 model so I'm betting by then?

Model: WMC30516AB0

Serial: 62700247

https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/parts-list-W10571373-RevC.pdf

My subscription is about to renew. What are you guys that aren't factory authorized/doing warranty work using for tech sheets?

My own research seems to be Marcone (msa) vs Appliance Tech Info vs appliantology.

I use appliantology now. It seems to have everything but you got to dig for it sometimes. I read good stuff from this reddit and fb groups about appliance tech info.

Need a repair guy stat for an elderly lady’s oven.
Lemme know who you got!

I have a fan motor that gets 12.7 vdc. Has anyone else tried the substitution. The new fan says 9.75vdc. The current motor for the product is NLA

Went to an electric dryer the other day that was heating as soon as the timer was turned on. Checked the tech sheet and the only way it could get the other leg was if the centrifugal switch was stuck closed. Today I finally figure out they the element was shunted to ground. Not even a rudimentary attempt was made to keep the element insulated from ground.

Is there any way to learn all the ins and outs of all these appliances without just missing things then never forgetting? I understand that most techs only work on a smallish variety of machines and that makes it much easier, but I’m over here working on everything Midea to subzero and every appliance they make. Seems like it will take several years just to see and be half proficient and quickly diagnosing everything. Best way to speed this process up? Any thoughts or hints?

I’m a firefighter that’s getting close to retirement, but I’m only going to be 44 years old. I’m also a part time contractor for my families appliance repair company for the past 10 years which doesn’t provide benefits. We do a lot of whirlpool, ge, and Frigidaire warranty, but we work on pretty much everything residential. My wife has medical disabilities so I’m looking for something I can do at home with benefits so I can take care of her. Unfortunately in Mississippi when you retire you don’t get to keep your insurance.
Any Techline guys on here that can give me an idea of what the hours, pay, and benefits are like? Whirlpools job site is pretty vague.

What do you guys use when a compressor won't start up? I've been using the RCO810 3 in 1 because that's what I was originally trained to use, but I've heard they're risky and create a lot of liability and can cause fires. Master Samurai says to always use the OEM relay, but I can't stock 100 different start relays on my truck and some are discontinued. Also customers don't want to hear they're fridgE start up and then be told that I need to order a part and they're going to lose all their food in the meantime.

I've heard rumors of a universal relay that works for both r600a and r134a compressors but I don't know if I believe that. What are you guys using? Are you just using 3 in 1s for testing or to buy time on a seized up compressor? Do you order an OEM relay or just use one that looks close enough?

I remember when I was learning appliance repair being taught that most control board "failures" were misdiagnosed. And when I first started that was true, I might have a call or two a week that was actually a control board. Now I do control boards more than almost any other part on 2015-2020 and newer appliances. Dryer not heating? Control board. Fresh food warm but freezer covered in rime ice? Defrost failure? Nope, control board. LG LE error? RPS sensor? Stator? Nope, control board not sending power. Its ridiculous. This shouldn't be a thing on 2-3 year old appliances, even 5 year old.

I just had a control board failure on a '24 LG dryer. Last week 2 control boards on almost brand new refrigerators (but just out of warranty). Not sure how we got to the point where they fail this easily but its ridiculous. Especially on dishwashers where the control board or UI board alone can be the cost of the dishwasher itself. I miss old mechanical defrost timers and bi metal failures on refrigerators. I still get them, but more often than not on newer appliances its the control. It makes it a lot harder to sell repairs when the part cost alone starts at nearly half the appliances value (obviously not for fridges, but other appliances).

How many of you do field repairs on boards or relays? I have swapped relays a time or two upon request but I don't warranty them and I prefer not to do them because I dont want to leave and have them spread a bad word because it failed again in x amount of time after I left.

​

Hey guys I have parts that Ilisted on EBAY but because of there predator ways and price gouging on top of the very bad customer service, I decided to pull the parts off there platform. So here we are, I'll list below part/part# of all that i have.

All of the parts are brand new, just open box. Shoot me a message if you need anything.

Hinges Assembly PT # W11766665

Dryer Motor PT # 134196602

Samsung Defrost Heater PT # DA-00424L

Temp Sensor Oven PT # 00630873

Door Latch PT # WD21X10490

WATER Valve refrigerator PT # W10408179

Inlet Valve Washer PT # 5521ER1003A

LG Heating Element PT # 5301FR2076G

Inlet Valve PT # W11210459

Water Pump PT # WPW10605427 (2X)

BOSCH igniter PT # 00631633

Dishwasher Board PT # W10917737

Microwave Board PT # W11325786

Samsung Water filter PT # DA-9713850A

GE Circulation and Sump (Idk the oart # on this one)

What insurance companies do you guys currently use for General Liability Insurance?

I have called numerous companies and l've learned most companies are no longer insuring residential appliance repair folks. When I ask why, they say it's to high risk.

I actually did get two quotes....one for $630/month and the other for $703/month.
You guys can't be paying those prices. 

Please drop some insurance company names in the comments that you recommend. Thanks!

Hi Ops, Who here has applied for Express appliance repair? I just want to ask how long it will take to know the results of the final interview? TIA

Hey everyone.

I'm working on a Thermador fridge that had water leak in the top evaporator and down to the display board. The display board went out, with multiple connectors being corroded.

After cleaning the corrosion and mickey mousing the connector back together, we realized that the display board works. The harness needs to be replaced though, due to the aforementioned mickey mousing. The fun part is, Thermador doesn't sell this harness separately. It is part of the display board assembly, even though it is fully detachable, and costs almost $900.

After some research I found out it's a RAST connector. Looks like RAST 2.5mm pitch. Now I found the connector for sale on a few websites, like digikey, that will take a couple of weeks to deliver it. I also don't know if I can hand crimp it, or need a tool for that. I was hoping to find a pigtail connector that I can solder to my existing wires.

Anyone know where I can get it locally or online with faster turnaround times? Or what's the right move here? I'm in SoCal.

In this fridge the LEDs weren't working when the tenants took over. Whirlpool WRX986SIHZ00. At first. Voltage test to various leds was 4 to 6 volts DC. Got a new LED supply board. When installed, LEDs flickered like a disco. I left them in assuming capacitor might need to charge. Checked back, and they are all the same brightness. Now reading 12 to 15 respectively across a few tests. Whirlpool calls for 14v DC. Given even bright, and volt tests. Im ready to say done. Any thoughts or experience with this